Dean and Mary

Electric RV jacks almost always have a manual method for raising and lowering them in the event of dead batteries. The connection point is located on top of the jack, and the trailer includes a tool designed specifically to operate it.

I should have started by asking whether you have voltage at the batteries, and then whether you have voltage at the input side of the 60‑amp breaker. A voltmeter will help immensely. It could even be something simple—like lithium batteries that were accidentally switched off. On my trailer, a 4‑gauge cable runs directly from the batteries to the 60‑amp breaker, and that circuit is independent of the heavier‑gauge cable feeding the inverter. I can double‑check in the morning, but I’m fairly sure the wire going to the converter is connected before the 60‑amp breaker, which would mean the breaker isn’t the issue. I hope this doesn’t add to the confusion. Dean

Imelda, The 60‑amp circuit breaker under the street‑side bunk also supplies power to the jacks in my trailer. Do your jacks work? If they do, then move on to the converter—located under the dinette in my unit—and check the fuses there. If the jacks don’t work, the breaker is most likely the issue. Dean

I just upgraded from a 2" Bulldog hitch to a 2‑5/16" hitch. Thanks, Patriot, for the information and the link to the Collar Trailer Hitch Lock for Bulldog‑style Couplers. I just placed my order, and it will definitely help with security while towing, since the wire that holds the collar offers virtually no real protection. I’ll be using a Proven lock on that collar so it matches all my other Proven lock keys.

We live in the mountains about an hour from Denver off Highway 285. We hope to attend a big rally someday if one is held close to Colorado, and a smaller regional rally would definitely interest us as well. Thanks for checking out our signature line about the equipment upgrade. I’m still working on it and hope to have everything wrapped up soon. Once it’s finished, I’ll put together a full write‑up and share the process. And yes—I agree that an Oliver‑offered Victron upgrade would definitely appeal to buyers. Dean

The Oliver Travel Trailer for Sale Facebook page is actually where I found and purchased my used 2022 Oliver Elite II. I really like the idea JD mentioned about having a dedicated used‑parts section. The Oliver Facebook page doesn’t allow used parts to be listed, and while Oliver parts can be posted on Facebook Marketplace, having a specific section or page just for Oliver accessories/parts would be a great addition. I have, for sale, the solid aluminum front basket you are looking for JD, but I am not interested in shipping it. I also have a working Xantrex 3,000 inverter, a Seabiscuit rear storage rack etc.... If only there was a place to list the used accessories.

Thanks for sharing your Bigfoot camper information. We owned a 2006 Bigfoot 21RB for 18 years and sold it a few months ago. I installed solar panels, an inverter, and a battery upgrade back in 2008 after buying it used—photo of me working on that install is below. We purchased this Oliver used in June of this year, so RV solar isn’t new territory for me. Right now, the biggest challenge is simply the physical layout and mounting of all the components. Fortunately, I’ve been a woodworking hobbyist since I was a kid, and HDPE Boat Board machines just like wood, so all my shop tools are perfect for this project. After learning from nearly every mounting‑related post on this forum, I will definitely be installing the inverter on a pedestal. Below is a photo of the original Xantrex mounting board, which looks similar to what others have posted. Oliver’s glue works when the board is pressed firmly into the fiberglass, but like many have experienced, mine wasn’t—and it had broken loose by the time I bought the trailer. Initially, I wasn’t planning to upgrade my Xantrex 3000‑watt inverter, but since it needed a complete remount, it made sense to upgrade to the MP2 now. I’ll make the inverter removable (very good suggestion) so the gray‑tank waste valve can still be replaced if needed. I also purchased Wago pluggable connectors for the two AC lines, which will make disconnecting the inverter much easier. I’ll be installing components under the dinette seat as well. Oliver glued a panel there to hold the surge‑protection hardware. That board is solid and can’t realistically be removed, so I had to come up with a clever way to integrate it into a larger mounting panel. Much more to come in a new thread once the project is complete.

JD, Thanks for the quick reply and for sharing your additional thoughts. You’re a tremendous resource for this forum. The details you provided helped confirm the direction I’m taking with my Victron electrical upgrade, and the information about the supplemental fans was especially valuable. I had planned to install a single 140×140×38 fan, since it delivers a little more than twice the airflow of two 120×120×25 fans, and control it through the Cerbo GX. However, based on what you shared, I’m going to take a wait‑and‑test approach and add it later only if needed. Maybe others will chime in with their experience managing temperatures after installing everything in that tight space. Thanks, Dean

jd1923, thanks for all the information you’ve shared about your Victron upgrade. I’ve read through this thread—and many others—while working on my own upgrade on a 2022 Oliver. When my upgrade is complete, I will share the information in a new thread. You mentioned the new Victron Multiplus II 4000‑watt unit. One additional benefit in the 4K unit is the two cooling fans instead of the single fan in the 3K unit. The heat rejection has been substantial improved from 110 CFM to 260 CFM, which for me was actually the more important reason to step up to the 4K unit. The 1,200 watt increase in sustained output wattage would be a bonus, but one which I am not use I would ever use. That brings me to my question about your installation. Your setup shows cooling fans pulling air from the basement and pushing it through the main equipment area under the bed. After installing and using those cooling fans, did you find that addition necessary? If so, how often do the fans run? Do you open the interior basement door to allow cabin air to be drawn through? And finally—would you recommend adding the additional cooling fans? Thanks, Dean

Thanks for sharing the information on your upgrade.

Oliver2Roam, I’ll let you know when the Pelland product arrives. After posting my first response, I called Pelland Enterprise and was told the window seal is still on backorder, but they expect it to ship in about 2–3 weeks. Dean

Steele Rubber Products sells window molding weather strip (part # 70-4500-257), and it worked perfectly on my 2022 Oliver Elite II. I learned about it from another forum member who recommended it in a different thread. Another option is: Pelland Enterprises - (part # H109-376). I ordered both products to compare, but have yet to receive the Pelland product.

I’ve been looking for a quality dimming option for the three lights you mentioned, and I appreciate you sharing your results.

Thanks, Galway Girl, for the link to your solar panel kit and all the details. I found it very informative. Unfortunately, the cable is currently unavailable.