geokeg

Please keep this topic going. Leaking windows and from other areas are a familiar issue for many of us. Always good to see what others are doing to stop leaks. Our Oliver remains outside in the Pacific Northwest and has been a challenge to keep the water out. My only one relevent suggestion is have awareness of having the hull level so you can track vertical flow sources.

Thanks for posting this topic. I have hull number 178 and it has similar problems and needs. I will be interested to see if we can get information to replace the rubber tracks.

Welcome to the forum and the Oliver owner's community. We have hull number 178. Coming up on 7 years of ownership next month. We too are west of the Cascades, and east of the Olympics. Wonderful place to own an Oliver.

Does your inverter have a GFCI outlet that feeds the AC circuit? Are you getting any output directly from the inverter? My inverter mimicked failure by having a faulty GFCI outlet that is the outlet to the AC system. The inverter was operating and thought everything was fine but the GFCI was not letting current flow. Had to replace the inverter due to an inaccessible outlet inside the inverter. Not a great design!

Sounds to me like a serious running clearance problem on the hot side brakes due to malfunctioning auto adjusters. It also sounds like the brakes were so hot they couldn't release on your one backing up event. My trailer had brake temp problems, dragging brakes, etc. thanks to auto adjustment 👎🏼. I replaced with all new brakes and manual adjustment. Problems solved.

One other potential problem is if the house/external circuit has reversed polarity at the outlet, the Oliver will not accept power unless you use the protection override switch. BTDT. (rewired the outlet).

My story is very similar to Steve's about the nev r adjust brake system. Very disappointed in its performance. It overadjusted the two rear brakes causing brake overheats due to dragging brake shoes with inadequate running clearance. We are getting all new brake system components with manual adjustment capability, not automatic. We have just a little over 11,000 miles on our trailer, pretty expensive lesson about the auto adjust system. My recommendation is if you have the nev r adjust system, check your brake temps for approximately equal temps after stopping periodically. If you have a mix of temperatures to the touch, you may be developing running clearance issues.

This whole topic string is nuts to me. Way too complex and busy for a trailer to take camping. All of this lithium battery re-engineering, rework, etc. seems expensive, tedious, and frought with risk. It makes my Blue Sky system with AGM batteries, solar panel, and inverter seem simple in comparison. It has been sitting outside here in the northwest for over 5 years and still operating just fine. I know I would not buy a used trailer that had been converted from AGM to lithium after it left the factory. Too risky.

Great ideas! Thanks Jim, Chris, and SeaDawg.

I want to have my wheel bearings repacked with brake inspections and running clearances adjusted. I am having a tough time finding a shop that I feel is competent and trustworthy. Any recommendations? (Please do not recommend Imperial RV services in Belfair, very incompetent office staff, never even made it to the shop part, probably a good thing!)

Wow! That is quite a process you just described! Very helpful I am sure. The new system and batteries sound much more complex than my Blue Sky Solar controller, "old" 2,000 watt inverter, and AGM batteries. Time for me to butt out, it appears my info. is non relevant. Good luck, I hope it is a simple solution of changing some settings like Fritz has suggested.

Interesting about no display on the inverter. Mine thought it was okay, and it was. The internal outlet which is the output power for the inverter had a failed GFCI. I'm thinking input DC voltage tested at the inverter will tell the story. It is too low for the inverter to power up or inverter failure.

What is your battery voltage? If it is 11.5 or higher it is not likely to be the source of your problem. My documentation for 2017 model says 10.5 and below the inverter will not operate. Can you plug a test lamp or other AC device into the outlet on the inverter? If that doesn't get power then for sure your inverter is not producing power. It is likely to be an inverter/GFCI internal failure if the inverter is getting good DC power to the input side. If you have a multimeter you should check input voltage at the inverter. If it is good, then your inverter is likely to be the problem. On my 2017 model that was it for sure, but your system and its logic may be different.

Do you have a microwave? If it is powered up then it could be the GFCI is faulty or needs to be reset. If the microwave is not powered up with inverter switched ON, the inverter is not putting out power or the GFCI internal to the inverter has failed, (not good). If the microwave has power you can use its outlet until you get the other outlets powered, it is not on the GFCI circuit, (2017 Oliver Hull 178). The other possibility is that your battery voltage is below the threshold that will let the inverter come on. I have seen all 4 failure modes on our Oliver, well 3 actually. The GFCI on the inverter failed and the inverter had to be replaced, out of warranty of course.

So, I just have to ask, what else gets carried to safely jack up the trailer, remove the wheel and brake drum to get to the bearings? On anything but a flat, level concrete surface it can be a very risky task. And that darn wheel/tire is heavy! In hoping to avoid such a circumstance as an on the road repair, I carry an infared tool that I can monitor wheel hub and brake drum temperatures. Failure avoidance is my scheme, even a simple hub/wheel temp test with the bare hand can be helpful preventing an overheated bearing or brake problem.