KarenLukens

The Airstream guys were saying, skip the factory solar. My friend has them mounted on the roof of his Bigfoot. I'll get a few pics today. I watched the Wynn's review and read the article and their take said that they are perfect for the Airstream. We're going on the roof today to install the micro-air easy start on Goldilocks and will be checking our panels also. Personally, I like the flex panel and these may hold more heat being black but the roof is going to be too hot to touch mid summer anyway. What I also found interesting on that web site is the wind turbines that people are installing on their trailers. I looked but didn't see the voltage differences that you did. I just saw the 12vdc after clicking on the panel in the link... http://www.gonewiththewynns.com/flexible-solar-panels-rv

Here's a link to some great flexible Solar pannels. http://www.windynation.com/Monocrystalline-Solar-Panels

The whole head of the jack moves around on mine only being held on by 2 screws on opposite sides, making it undependable. The fridge needs to be level, I just used the Outter hulls seam to level with, then put RV levels inside and out. The seam worked really well as my main leveling point but it will differ from front to back and side to side if you're using the jacks to level with. For the one time base leveling, you need to use blocks under the tires first, not the stabilizers and do it on as level of ground as you can find :)

Oh... I like that :) Great idea.

:) Welcome aboard Tom & Karen :)

Yep, the top fitting would be best by far. Then the tank drain could be left on the lower line just to provide a back up that could be left open in the winter for air pressure equalization. It still needs a real drain but with the top fitting pick up tube being placed in that right corner, there would no longer be a need to use antifreeze and the drain that's there now wouldn't do much anymore. I'm still under warranty, so I need to hear what Oliver comes up with. Then they can contract it out if needed.

We definitely prefer boat ramp truck and trailer parking areas on lakes to truck stops but we boondock most of the time anyway.

Haha, it says 10pm on the post but here it's just 8pm and the sun is getting ready to set, we still have daylight coming in the windows.

The middle of June here in northern, Cal. and it snowed a bit today. We might wake up covered with it in the morning, though it says only a couple inches :) The view out of Goldilocks back window.

I think that I would just go back to the Tee, which should be inside the vanity, then just pull the Tee off and put a coupling straight in to the bathroom faucet. Then just blow the now empty toilet line out once and forget about it.

Oops, I was wrong, it's the round holes by the red caps :) So that's why they weren't turning black :) Looks like your round holes are black like mine. The video shows it about 2 minutes in. I thought they showed the square holes in the PDF... Reed

Bill, those little square holes in the caps are the indicators supposedly, yours are white like mine. Did you check the depth of the water?

I figured that the seam would be the best place to get a true level. So after I leveled it from the seam and checked the floor, I put 2 levels inside and then 3 outside. One in the trunk above the outside shower so that I can see if I need to raise it when dumping. Then one behind the door like Casita and one above the propane cover that I can see in my rear view mirror. We are waiting on Oliver being that we have a few other miner issues that they are working with us on and I won't proceed without their consent. If the line came out of the tank sloping down, we would get more out of it, but we run dry at 38% and the line looks level from what I can see. So as soon as it gets below the top of the pipe, it loses prime. The fix itself is simple, but getting a certified fix may be a different story.

After we picked up Goldilocks in February, I ended up adding over 3/4 of a gallon of distilled water. Part of that was to fill the watering system and most went to fill the batteries back up. I'm sure that they hadn't been filled or checked after they were put on the shelf to sell. Yesterday marked the 90 day check and they only took a couple ounces of water. I've not been able to get the sight indicator to turn black like it says they will do when full, so I popped the caps and checked the level and to see the inside with the Hydro-Link watering system. The water level was OK but not to the top like it would be if you did it by hand. It covers the plates but is maybe 1/2" low in each cell. Anyway... I can't see how they will be able to take anymore water, with the way that it's set up with the hydro-link auto feeder installed. So have any of you been able to get your battery level indicator to turn black and show full? I don't see a need to worry about it because the hydro-link sets the level to its own caps, but the instructions do say that they will all turn black when full... I think that the only way to fill them to the top is by pulling the caps and manually filling them. From the add - Battery maintenance, particularly watering your battery, can be time-consuming, messy and, in some instances, unsafe. Trojan’s HydroLinkTM comes with an independent, nonmechanical water level indicator that is simple to read. A white indicator means that the battery needs water and a black indicator means that the battery has enough water. The HydroLinkTM indicator will not give a false reading, unlike products that utilize mechanical readers. The new durable SnakeTM tubing offers the quickest, simplest installation. The patent pending, one-piece SnakeTM tubing eliminates the need for multiple connections, resulting in fewer parts and faster filling.

Exactly :)

Just too funny from my neighbourhood Reed https://www.ncscooper.com/cascade-shores-family-cited-for-viking-funeral-at-scotts-flat-lake/#.WTXKHDAu3HE.facebook . . . . .

I looked in their tonight and man is it tight... They started using the long sweeping elbows this year and I wonder if they added a bit to account for the sweep? There was no way that the pipe could be pushed down but with a little extra length on the pipe above the first Tee, it could be dropped to the floor allowing a lot more water into the line... So that will need to be modified also. On mine, being the king bed, it looks like I might need to remove everything over the top of it to make the needed adjustments to the lines and the fittings. Here's today's pics, there's no way to get a measuring tape in there right now... When the rain stops, I can pull the heating duct out oif the way and get a better look. Got another email today from Jason saying that they have hired experts to figure it out...

Hi Dave & Gail, depending on your tow vehicle, I don't see a need for the Anderson hitch. Another 115vac outlet to the right of the kitchen would be a priority for me; either under the switch pannel, or below it or on the right side of the kitchen stove cabinet. Other then that, ask them about new options that aren't mentioned in the paperwork like the fold down TV mount. Also, since you're getting the wifi booster, have them mount it above where you will be using it the most. It comes standard at the kitchen table but if you want to use it in bed then it will need to be mounted in the rear, over your head. You need to be within 3' to get the most out of it.

You want the 1/2" copper tubing to 1/2" pipe fitting, which looks to be what you have. The 1/2" pipe fitting will screw into the tank. Then just put another on the outside and screw it to the pex fitting that you pulled out with a 1/2" brass pipe coupling. You will want to put a good quality pipe joint compound on the one pipe thread. Screw the fitting into the tank first, then position the copper tube where you want it and then tighten the tubing nut to hold it in place. You can already have the second one tightened on the outside to the pex fitting and this will also give you a point to hold on to for tightening the inner fitting.

Instead of gluing the pex, just use another comp fitting on the outside and thread it to the pex connector and then crimp it on like normal. The copper may crack down the road someday from the vibration but that can be said about the brass also :)

That would work as well but I think that the compression fitting shown looks like 3/8" pipe thread and would need to be 1/2", but it looks like a good idea. You want the end of the tubing facing down to get the most water out of the tank with around a 1/8" gap off of the bottom along with being situated as close to the edge of the fitting into the tank as possible because the tank is blocked up from the bathroom side and tilts towards the fitting :)

Actually I was thinking of using the rectumseal True Blue. I like #5 and have used it forever but I'm thinking it might need a better sealant then #5 this time because it's plastic to brass, which is not something that I usually deal with. Am I over thinking? I've got #5 on hand and am coming from being an avid Nylog user on gas and steam pipes, so that's why I was thinking the blue.

Yup, just have to add 1 1/4" to make it thru the hole and point down before starting to thread. Making the part will be easy :)

Go drive a Sprinter, to me they are undrivable, uncomfortable, and too small. But these were our final choices https://leisurevans.com/unity/floorplans/ http://www.tiffinmotorhomes.com/content/allegro-2017 My leg kept knocking the Sprinter gear shift into neutral... Poor design killed that one for us. So we stuck with the Mercedes Benz ML350 Bluetec as our really comfortable and decked out tow vehicle and bought the Oliver. I can drive this car in comfort all day, just like the Tiffin. I loved our Pace Arrow back in the day, just got tired of trying to park in a cramped parking lot just to go shopping.

Thanks Dave :) Especially for backing me up on this. The coper tube will not work in this tank because the input is too close to the side of the tank and it needs to spin in, to thread it in. I'm going to measure the distance from the edge and bottom then, where you see the copper pipe coming out of the fitting, I'm going to thread the inside of that fitting and put in a short 3/8" nipple that's just long enough to allow the next fittings to fit through the hole. Then an elbo, then a really short nipple that will clear the edge of the tank and the bottom and thread into the fitting. This last nipple if I can get it sitting on the bottom, will have a divit cut into it to keep it open for the water to flow into :) I didn't get into it today, we spent the day in town and then went to Truckee for dinner in the high mountain fog :)