KarenLukens

That's exactly what I was thinking but I haven't looked for a route out the back yet. I'll be filling up again in a couple days :)

That's how we feel also, when towing Goldilocks with our ML350, we're getting between 19 & 20 mpg here in the 55 saves lives state of California... And that coupled with the 27 gallon tank let's us fill up generally once a day when we are racking up the miles between stops. I like topping it off in the morning, then we can drive as long as we want for the day, usually stopping between 3 or 4 in the afternoon so we get some decent rest also. We've been in Goldilocks for over 4 months full time now and gave our house to our niece. We're moving into our old Grandma cottage ourselves before next winter sometime here in the 100 acre wood :)

I always like to take enough time to think things through, and this morning was thinking that with the insertion of the new top port, that a normal gravity fill system would be really easy to add in also. The pump on the back is nice but slow with the 1/2" pex line. The normal 1" gravity port is about twice as fast as the pump. There's a couple places to install it, and I'm thinking that out the back would make it easy because you could just set the tank on the bumper and let it go. Mark had his Bigfoot here last week and we used my Simple Syphon Big Gulp system to gravity fill his tank. It only takes approximately 1 1/2 minutes to empty an 8 gallon container with the normal 1" gravity port... But it's still in the thinking process :) Reed

Welcome Foy & Mirna :) Nice looking set up all the way around, and I like the new 12 hole rims, they look great :) I also see that you have your water filter hooked directly to the trailer. Personally, that looks like a possible breaking point and I would use a 4' hose between the filter and the trailer just in case someone accidentally pushed down on it, or stepped on the hose thinking that it was strong enough. It could pull the socket out of the trailer but would most likely at least pull the female hose fitting off of the housing. I have 12", 24" & 48" sections of hose for different situations. You guys have a beautiful trailer and I love the stove set up :) Reed

We got the Micro-Air Easy Start installed today and was surprised to see it recommended to be just held in with double sided tape. But the install was quick and easy after we got the Dometic cover off... Once again stripped out screws were installed into the cover making it a pain to get apart, but all's well that ends well and I don't need to go up there every day so that's done. The only problem now is that since we're boondocking, we don't have any shore power to plug into, so that won't get tested until next week... Then... The fan went out on the fridge and we had to trace that out... After running a jumper everywhere and testing everything, it was a simple fix. The spring in the fuse socket had been over compressed at one time and it wasn't making the connection. It worked fine when we picked it up but somewhere in there, the fuse wasn't touching the spring clip, so it couldn't get power. As I was going thru everything, I pulled the cover off of the switch and checked it and this was the first time that I had ever taken that cover off so I snapped a pic. So now, in 92° weather today, the fan is working and it should keep the fridge down at a working temp, I guess... I keep the fridge door by the fan cracked open so no heat can get trapped inside of it anyway, and that so far has really worked well :) Reed

Big man needm big shower :) So get an oversized tent, that way you can shower with him in comfort sometimes. We use a large 6 x 6' tent and it's large enough that a plastic chair can fit in also. The other thing that you will need if you're going to use the onboard outside shower is a longer hose. We've been showering in the woods for a long time and a tent is nice for the ladies. Sun-showers are nice when it's hot out but not so much in the fall. Karen and I have showered together outside many times over the years. The onboard Truma AquaGo Water heater option will give you all the hot water needed. Also, a raised floor keeps your feet clean if you have room for a large shower mat. https://www.amazon.com/KingCamp-Oversize-Portable-Dressing-Changing/dp/B01MS7477H/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1498051764&sr=8-8&keywords=Shower+tent+large

I called Jason... It sounds like they are either adopting or using your set up John. They are waiting to have it approved. Jason wasn't familiar with this thread, so he's going to look at it and call me back.

We're still interested in the Fiamma Privacy Room but decided to wait a bit and get used to our new Oliver. We've pulled out a bunch of stuff we don't use, every time we come home, and we're still adding and subtracting a little here and there. It will be interesting to see a video on how you set it up for storage while traveling also Buzzy :) I'm hoping that it will fit on top of the car in it's own lockable storage container.

Did Oliver call back and approve it yet Dad? I don't care! I want it now! Hahaha :)

Lot's of us pull with SUV's :) http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/hull-200-in-service/

I'm not sure if you can get a max fan in there, you could check into it, but for me, if it cut down on the head room, I would pass.

Excellent work John :) Once Oliver gets it approved, I'm ready :)

We're always totally alone at night with a nice lake view at boat ramps and we've found some pristine camping spots overlooking a nice lake, not the ramp. It's just something to keep in mind being that it is a legal area to camp when needed :)

We don't have the frosted but we have the white. We chose this so that we would have a nice white canvass that we can do anything with. You can add wallpaper paintings or whatever you wish throughout the trailer. We did have them put the mirrored door in the bathroom. I like sleeping in the dark and we thought that the mirrored doors would basically create a laser light show all over with the green lights in the cabin at night. Plus with the white, there are no visible fingerprints at all.

Is that the Blaylock John? Make me a deal :) I'd like to check it out just because... I had the Anderson Levelers on our Casita and like it mostly, but it was to small with the 4" max lift. I have wooden blocks also, cut from 3/4 exterior plywood. It lasts longer and is more stable than the 2x6 being 12 x 18" pieces.

Let's start by making it as easy as possible, and that comes with the right Level on the front of the trailer. Walmart, Camping World, Amazon all have graduated levels. I can see really good so I use the Hopkins Graduated Level and have it placed where I can see it in my rear view mirror. For my tow vehicle, right below the seam is perfect. These levels are numbered, and when the level has the bubble sitting on say #3, that means that you will need 3 blocks under the tires. I try to get it with in an inch and then use the rear stabilizers to level it out the rest of the way. When installing these levels, one is marked for the side to side level and the other is marked for the front to back, so be sure that you put the right level in the right place. I bought 3 packages of them and have the one in the front, one behind the door when it's open, one below the bathroom window and another in the storage compartment, above the outside shower. This way, no matter what side I am putting blocks under, I have levels that I can see. Then I have 2 inside, one over the bathroom door and the other above the switch panel to the right of the kitchen. If you are using the store bought blocks, then keep using them and don't get discouraged. You can just put blocks under the tires and not make a ramp. Right now we have one trailer on top of a 7 high stack, where we started out with 2 blocks, then put 4 blocks 3" in front of the first stack. Then our friend pulled onto the 4 stack and we put 3 more for a double stack of 7 under both of his tires. For extreme cases, you will need up to 4 sets of the 10 block stacks, because you will need enough to raise the stabilizers also. Basically, if you want to get it right the first time, then the levels are the key. You will want to take your trailer to a really level parking lot and use at least a 2' long level along the seam to get the trailer as close to perfect as you can. You want it on level ground for this so that you won't have any frame flex at all. Level it and check the level on all 4 corners of the sides and front and rear. Once leveled, take out your new Hopkins RV levels and place them accordingly. Then just use them every time and before long, you will have it right the first time, every time :) Lot's of times I will use a full stack of blocks under each stabilizer and the front jack to keep set up time to a minimum when pulling over for one night. Reed

My friend Mark was sitting here with me this morning and he's been thinking about installing the Nature's Head as well. Then he was thinking about running a line from the nature's head urinal down into the black tank... This way he could flush the urine out the back with some water added into the black tank and it sounds feasible. You could take that waterline and plumb it into the black tank flush line to add water in the beginning... And you could put some Nature's Miracle or something down the black tank to prime it and get rid of the ammonia smell. Or maybe you could just add some baking soda also... Just some thoughts anyway :)

It was nice to see one of our boondocking pictures, used in an add on the Oliver face book page yesterday. Our friend Mark joined us Monday in his Bigfoot and is going to be here with us for a few days. Then we will all meet up again in Bandon, OR for the rally :)

Yup, it closes tight enough, but it was the middle of the night and we have the heat set to come on at 55°, so the cabin stays cold for good sleeping. I plugged the vent and turned up the heater to 62° just to heat the bathroom, which probably got up to around 70° in there only and it worked great and was very comfortable. Then I came out and put it back down to 55°, pulled the pillow from our main and only duct we use in the kitchen and went back to bed :)

I just wanted a warm bathroom tonight, the temps are dropping into the 30°s. I've had the heater outlet under the bed closed off and taped closed for a few months, so I stuck a pillow in front of the outlet in the kitchen, waited a minute, then went in and still had cold air coming out of the vent... But... There was plenty of air coming out, I waited another minute and... no change... So I turned on the vent fan, and in just a few seconds, the heat vent was really blowing hot air out and really heated the bathroom up fast :) My theory is that the vent pulled the hot air thru the heating duct and when I shut the vent fan off, it seemed to cool back down some. So I turned it on again and happiness flowed over the world once again :) Tip or trick? It's too soon to tell, but try it and post your results. Reed P.s. I do have the heat limiters pictured below on the left, removed from the kitchen and bathroom vents.

I showed it to Karen... She wants one too ,:) Thanks John :) Reed

Yup, 38% and you're done... Because if you raise the tongue and leave it up... out goes the fridge.

All 3 voltages are correct, the Zamp or your controller converts it to 12vdc for the batteries. So the max voltage that the one pannel sends to the controller is 17.8vdc. The open voltage between the panel's is the 21.6? He said that he would need to read the manual, but that's the basics. He has 400watts on his roof and has pulled 18.5amps so far but in full sun should pull up to 22.

I went back and found it :) They've got the maximums posted but it's still a 12vdc panel, I can ask Mark today then get back later :)