KarenLukens

Sitting here in Forks, WA is really nice this weekend, the coast is clear :)

I've got the P3 installed inside the center console. It can't be seen unless you open the door and that gives you full access at your finger tips at all times. Our center console is split in 2 so I just open my 1/2 and can use it manually if needed any time without ever having to move my arm from its normal resting place.

Hello :) Yup, Alaska is fun.

I was looking under the Dinette in the compartment by the battery box to make a couple of electrical mods and saw a lot of unused open space. Being that it's right over the axle, I'm wondering if any of you have converted this space into storage? Since Oliver took out the roller for the 30amp cord, this place is empty. I'm thinking about lining and insulating the wiring, putting it in conduit, and then running styrofoam insulation over it to box it in and keep the wiring harnesses isolated and secure, and then putting in a small pantry complete with shelves up to just below the battery box. It's a good place for clothes and gloves as is but being right over the axle, it could be used for lots more like pots and pans or an instapot if set up for it... Then you could put in an outside door for the cord and water hoses also, which is another option... I'm always doing something it seems, but this is a huge unused storage space that can handle some weight if done correctly... Reed

Look at the options again, this one was one of those $70,000.00 fully loaded custom builds. I wish there were some interior pics :) Reed

Because the YouTube video's titles don't completely fit on our member pages, it would be nice to be able to put a title below each video, if that's possible :)

I finished editing the video and put it on our blog on here. The Truma portion starts on pg10 http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/reed-karens-blog/page/10/#post-66175

I finished decalcifying the Truma and here's the video :)

Truma AquaGo problem solved :) The parts showed up this morning and I was able to check both the switch and the control box wire and the main problem was the control box wire. With the new wire I was able to run a quick jumper to test the switch and I now have a fully functional Truma AquaGo and... I did decalcify it today with the new wire just ran thru the window... But that was the beginning... And 4 hours later after decalcification, I still didn't have hot water, but I did now have the ability to run a full check on the complete system. Last Thursday, when I was taking a shower, the water went to warm, then the fridge kicked off with a check light. So I went out and found the propane tank regulator switch valve not all of the way in position. Some how this created a vaporlock somewhere in the water heater itself because the burner would come on, but there wasn't enough gas to get a full burn. That added to not having the Truma control switch working didn't allow me to see any problems that would show up on the LED3 switch in the house. Today after decalcification and jumping the system to get all of the error codes, I was able to see that it was having propane problems. So I pulled off the empty, went down and filled it, then came back and pulled the hoses off of both tanks for a few minutes to let everything reset and empty the lines to start fresh. Then I put the regulator back into the position that it was in last week, turned everything on and everything started up perfectly, problem solved :) So tomorrow, all I have to do is run a new control wire from the furnace, thru the hulls and up to the switch... So we have to empty the trailer, pull the cushions and then get what's needed to pull wire tomorrow and finish the job. Then... I may be needing a new propane regulator, but we will find that out after this tank runs dry... It has issues, and really sings when I'm running the fireplace from it, so I'm thinking that with the added propane ports that the regulator is simply too small for the system and it's not allowing enough propane to run thru the lines under a full load. But that will be a future project anyway :) Just another day with our Goldilocks :) Reed

We had a nice cloudy day here on the Oregon Coast today, so I was able to film part2 of our "Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2017" series, The Outside Storage Compartments. This also finishes up the rest of the Black Tank Cleaning movie that I started in part I. Filmed, edited, uploaded & produced all in just a couple hours this evening. We've been boondocking up here at Karen's mom's house waiting for water heater parts to get here from Oliver for a couple extra days. Jason overnighted the parts to us but I guess the delivery services in Florence,OR. have some catching up with the Jones's to accomplish because overnight was so... yesterday... :) Reed

We used to use DampRid in our Casita, it's a great product that comes in different styles.

Honestly, you're never to young to retire Mike, I was forced into retirement at 52 myself and now I don't regret it at all. It took 5 years to get to where I actually feel retired and that feeling came shortly after we picked up our new Oliver :) You will never regret buying one of these trailers. Reed

I threw the switch down being that both ways simply turn it on because the main board inside is the actual control board. So wherever you have the switch set inside, that's where it's at right? Well this is only true if the LED3 switch is actually working. Being an ex-boiler operator of 24years, I have ran systems almosts exactly the same as the Truma AquaGo, with the only difference basically being that the boilers that I worked on and maintained had fire boxes that you walked into and we're a few stories tall. So last night the water heater kept kicking on about every 5 minutes. It would run for a couple minutes and then shut down... To me it was obvious that throwing the switch down was not the same and that the owners manual was wrong... Up is Eco, Down is Comfort. So I got out of bed last night and went outside and switched it back up, problem solved, the boiler only came on when we needed hot water again. I called Truma again today and asked the Service Lady if I was right about the switches... And she said yes, but only if the inside LED3 switch isn't connected. So... Now we have a problem because the LED3 switch has all of the cleaning controls programmed into it and with it not working, I can't clean and decalcify the water system because there's no way to activate the cleaning cycle which basically just turns on the circulation pump. She said that there was no way for me to do it and I assured her that I could easily figure it out. She laughed a bit and agreed because this was the second time that I had brought a problem with their schematic to their attention and I do know my way around a little boiler. Basically the pills disolve in about 10 minutes and then the integrated circulation pump recirculates the decalcification toxins thru the water tube nest above the firebox. This is common and has to be done on every boiler. So the problem is that now, either the switch is dead or the junction wire that runs between the hulls is broken. The water heater works fine other then it needs to be cleaned and we have plenty of hot water for dishes and can still take short showers. I called Jason today and told him that I need both a new LED3 Switch and a new junction wire... And a set of tablets and that I need them today. So to make a long story short, he overnighted them and they will be here tomorrow :) If it turns out to be the wire then I will clean and decalcify the system first before starting on the wire pulling and routing the new wire from the heater to the new switch. Either way it's a little work but this water heater sure is nice :) I will make a complete Truma video that includes the tips mentioned above along with the actual final fix and cleaning. I'm really happy with our Oliver and Goldilocks has been put through the paces for sure. The moral of this story is, if there's no yellow light on your Truma AquaGo switch inside the trailer, don't wait for the system to need cleaning before you fix it. I got lucky, I was a week ahead and from now on I will clean it every 5 months instead of 6. The manual says yearly and for us, the reality is no less then every 5 months. Reed

Backing up a bit, a few months ago I talked to Jason again and he told me that they had the decalcification tablets approved and on order. Plus we had found out that in Eco mode, if you turn the hot water on for a few seconds, the sensor feels the water passing thru the water heater and turns it on... Then you turn it back off for a minute and let the water heater warm up the water to 120° before turning it on again and you have Endless hot water at up to 65psi right away and aren't sitting there watching the cold to warming water simply go down the drain while boondocking. So just turn on the hot water for a few seconds, the pilot ignitor will light the heater, turn off the water and get ready to shower because in less then 10 seconds the hot water will now be there. So basically, we never used comfort mode which keeps the water at 113° at all times because we can get hot water right away with that trick. A couple of days ago after I got out of that shower, I went outside and checked and cleaned the Truma Water filter, basically it was totally clean and I couldn't find a speck of anything in the filter. I had read the manual and there is a 3 position switch outside and you simply throw it either up or down to turn it on. I was also looking at how I would be setting it up to run the decalcification process and it's pretty easy, so I threw the switch back up again and left it on while Karen finished the dishes, then turned it off and drained it again to take another closer look at a few things. Now here's the kicker... This time since you can throw the switch either way, I threw it down... And this is where the new lesson starts...

We picked up our Goldilocks this last February and noticed that there was no yellow light on the inside switch plate known as LED3. At that time at Fall Hollow Campground, I figured that the light must come on the Comfort+ model because we went out, flipped the switch up in the outside compartment and it took off and has been running ever since. At that time I asked them about the decalcification tablets and this was the first time that it had been brought to their attention. Jason had been thrown into the Service Managers position a few days before and this was the first time that he had heard of them. But all is good and they shipped out the tablets to us today. Anyway... I called Truma last week to ask them about our switch with no light and the Service Lady told me that I must have a bad switch because they all have the light. So I called Oliver and we figured that the switch must be good because the water heater was working. And it has been working fine but with a burned out light... So then a couple days ago, I was taking a shower when the water went from hot to warm... OK, so it needs to be cleaned finally after 6 months and I already have the tablets in the mail and they should be here Monday... ________________________________________________ I had 6 paragraphs get lost when the tablet rebooted on me, so I'm writing it out again in sections because this tablet has seen better days :) Reed

The bigger the pictures the better :) Very nice set up you two :)

There's also a huge sound drop in the Dometic after the Micro-Air Easy Start is installed. The compressor isn't ramping up under a full load anymore and it's a major difference that's really noticeable.

Sounds like everything went great! Congratulations, we're anxious to see the pics :)

Just remember that the toilet rinse valve and the shower drain back flow valve and the black tank valve are all under the one seat and there is good storage room under that seat also. We have it packed with extra paper goods, rain boots, etc.

I'll find out if it will run the Dometic, this is more or less a test of functionability. I called Jason yesterday and asked him about me running a test jumper and he's checking into it for me on their end also :) I have a couple other issues going on with Goldilocks right now and man has it been windy on the Oregon Coast this week... Oliver has the Truma AquaGo decalcification tablets now and Jason is sending me out a parcel today with some tablets and a new control switch. I've never had the yellow light or LED3 come on, so... now that the hot water is cooling down a bit, it's time to decalcify our water heater. We still get hot water, it just doesn't stay up at 120° when running full blast... So if the control panel light was working, it would be telling me to clean it right now... The main LED1 is green and I'm not getting any error codes on LED2, so our first cleaning is right around the corner :) I would have already finished the movie on the sewer system if the wind would calm down, and now the next movie is almost ready to be filmed... I will completely go thru the Truma AquaGo hot water system along with the cleaning, maintenance and decalcification process in a video of its own. I will also address the 65lb maximum water pressure limit and why we need to keep our systems set to run below that. I've waited 6 months for that darn yellow light to work... lol and now I'm getting a new one. I talked with Truma Service and talked with Jason about it, and because the water heater is working fine, the LED3 is burnt out. If it was the wire or the remote panel itself, then the water heater wouldn't be working. So another quick fix is in the process :) It's an easy fix with just 4 screws to pull from the front. I pulled the front panel off last night just to check it out, everything works except for the little light itself. It just runs on the power supplied from the phone cord. There's two plug sockets in the back of the switch and either of them will work. I tried both on mine and still no light, but it all functions like it's supposed to except for LED #3... Reed

It's 24vdc

Hi and Welcome Daniel :) We'll be at Lake Casitas in late October passing thru your area from Truckee.

Everything from driftwood to the kitchen table is what it takes sometimes to flush the toidy :) This is our little 35' run to her sewer clean-out. We have flower baskets, a piece of 6' dog eared fencing, the driftwood, slinky's, and even a deck involved in this fun little run. The Oliver is high enough to make almost anything possible, just add in a cozy fire pit, and it's all downhill from here :) Reed

The easy start is a simple install, I would put it in and use it. When starting up on the 2000i before the easy start, the fan would come on, then shut off while the compressor comes online, then it restarts, this is normal. The Dometic Penguin II comes with a low wattage start capacitor already built in and this is how it normally starts on our generator. But the Micro-Air Easy Start really cuts down on the start up amps and allows the 2000i to still be ran in eco-mode. We also have the standard Progressive 2000watt Inverter with the 4- T105's. It comes with a 3000watt surge built in and 1800watts normal running, so it should handle the a/c easily :) But it's just not wired that way from the factory... yet. Reed

Nope, but also different CPAP's use varying amounts of electricity we have found and they have different cut off points where they will stop running. She picked up the new "Resmed Airsense 10" for women, it's even pink... Lol, it works great but uses around 3x more electricity then her old Phillips Resperonics on 12vdc. The Airsense is a 24vdc unit that comes with a converter built in for a 12vdc plug in. We have the DC plug-in's over the bed on both sides also along with the reading lights and 120vac plugs. We rarely use the inverter for anything other then the microwave, instapot and her blow drier right now. I've been thinking about just running an extension cord from the empty inverter outlet out to the 30amp plug in inlet with my 20amp adaptor to test it out but will this work? I "think"... that the transfer switch " should" take care of it... but I'm not positive and I don't want to blow any fuses by accidently doubling any voltages to anything... Any thoughts?