Starlink Mini Roam $50.00 a month

[johnwen]

4 hours ago, CRM said:

The convertor converts your onboard 12v DC to 57v DC so no AC power needed at all. 

I see the Starlink Gen 3 Step Up Converter on line and it seems a pretty easy install!

[johnwen]

3 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

Hi John,

We cut the cable years ago, and I’ve used the larger units, Gen-1 and Gen-3 for the Oliver.  Now I use the Mini exclusively with no complaints and we still keep the Gen-3 active at home for security devices and guests while we're away.

The Mini, with it’s built in Routrer, looses speed the farther away it is.  This is due to the WiFi signal dropping off.  So if you go with the Mini Dishy, then I recommend getting a Mini Mesh Node Router for $40 because there are times when you will need to move it farther away to find clear sky.  See my post: The new Starlink Mini Router, for what ails you.

Starlink Beam Switching keeps improving and there are increasing numbers satellites so reception keeps improving and the Mini seems to work as well as the Gen-3 in that regard.  My Mini isn’t quite as fast as the Gen-3, but it’s still blistering fast, and way faster than most cable connections.

There are a number of options to run the Mini from the trailers 12 volt system.  You just can’t use the included 50’ cable because of voltage drop without boosting the voltage.  You can do that with a voltage converter to increase voltage, or one of the available power supplies, or use a shorter cable.

Hope that answers your questions!  Cheers!  Geoff

Thanks, Geoff

I'm now refocusing on the Gen3 because of obstacle interference, it's going to come down to "Does the larger unit actually receive any better with partial tree obstruction?"   Wish us luck :)

[johnwen]

13 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

Hi John,

We cut the cable years ago, and I’ve used the larger units, Gen-1 and Gen-3 for the Oliver.  Now I use the Mini exclusively with no complaints and we still keep the Gen-3 active at home for security devices and guests while we're away.

The Mini, with it’s built in Routrer, looses speed the farther away it is.  This is due to the WiFi signal dropping off.  So if you go with the Mini Dishy, then I recommend getting a Mini Mesh Node Router for $40 because there are times when you will need to move it farther away to find clear sky.  See my post: The new Starlink Mini Router, for what ails you.

Starlink Beam Switching keeps improving and there are increasing numbers satellites so reception keeps improving and the Mini seems to work as well as the Gen-3 in that regard.  My Mini isn’t quite as fast as the Gen-3, but it’s still blistering fast, and way faster than most cable connections.

There are a number of options to run the Mini from the trailers 12 volt system.  You just can’t use the included 50’ cable because of voltage drop without boosting the voltage.  You can do that with a voltage converter to increase voltage, or one of the available power supplies, or use a shorter cable.

Hope that answers your questions!  Cheers!  Geoff

Geoff,

Did you see any/much difference in satellite acquisition with regards to obstacles between the Gen3 and the mini?  That's my main concern.  And where/how did you install the  Starlink Gen 3 Step Up Converter?  Is there any conversion loss with the converter like there is with my inverter?  Thanks so much for your help :)

John

[johnwen]

19 minutes ago, johnwen said:

Geoff,

Did you see any/much difference in satellite acquisition with regards to obstacles between the Gen3 and the mini?  That's my main concern.  And where/how did you install the  Starlink Gen 3 Step Up Converter?  Is there any conversion loss with the converter like there is with my inverter?  Thanks so much for your help :)

John

Well it seems there is no difference (according to ChatGPT) between the 2 concerning obstacle tolerance. The Gen3 is more powerful and faster but the mini's small size is so attractive, and now that it appears they both negotiate obstacles equally I reckon to be back in the mini market :)  I don't think I really need the speed difference between the 2.  This back and forth frenzy is fast coming to a conclusion...yay!

[Snackchaser]

3 minutes ago, johnwen said:

Well it seems there is no difference (according to ChatGPT) between the 2 concerning obstacle tolerance. The Gen3 is more powerful and faster but the mini's small size is so attractive, and now that it appears they both negotiate obstacles equally I reckon to be back in the mini market 🙂 I don't think I really need the speed difference between the 2.  This back and forth frenzy is fast coming to a conclusion...yay!

Hey John,

Chat GPT is often wrong because it relies on opinions like mine🫢  My opinion is that Gen-3 has slightly better reception because of the larger surface area and its motor driven alignment.  However, I don't think it is a significant difference, certainly not enough to offset the benefits of the Mini.  When there are too many obstructions, neither one is going to work well.  But I agree that the Gen-3 is faster, I think probably because of a better Wifi signal, hence I recommend using the Mini Mesh Node Router with the Mini Dishy.  See my post:  "The new Starlink Mini router, for what ails you."

We used to turn-off the power hungry Gen-3 at night to save our battery, the Mini stays on 24/7, a big benefit.  Also, the dishy spends most of its time on a mast, and the heavier Gen-3 on the same mast used to rock the trailer in breeze.  The mini is small and light as a feather in comparison.  See my post "Tacky Starlink mast."  BTW, I see folks buying padded cases and protectors for the Mini, but  they're pretty rugged and mine just lives in the hidden drawer below the pantry when traveling.  

It's more challenging to route the Gen-3 cable into the trailer, I've posted some designs on this too, see:  "Great news! Starlink Gen-3 is here and it has Rj45 connectors."  Other folks have posted ways to power it from DC, but I've never looked into that.

The Mini is easy to power, and there are portable power supplies available that can be  taken on  hiking trips.  I make a 3d printed version with built in battery charger, hit me up if interested.  I also have a post on powering the Mini from 12 volts with a 12-48 volt Victron converter, this was for one of the early Mini's and before any commercial solutions were  available.  See my post: "Starlink Mini installation, cracking the 12 volt  barrier... or not."  That post also includes a clean method to get the power cord into the trailer.  I still use that power supply today, but there are cheaper power supplies now available.  Albeit, not as good or energy efficient😆

Hope that helps with your decision process!  Cheers, Geoff

[jd1923]

15 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

There are a number of options to run the Mini from the trailers 12 volt system.  You just can’t use the included 50’ cable because of voltage drop without boosting the voltage.  You can do that with a voltage converter to increase voltage, or one of the available power supplies, or use a shorter cable.

@johnwen if you go with the Mini, I strongly suggest forget about all the wiring schemes and just get a battery for it!

You can use the power adapter included 50 ft cord, 30V output plugged into a your 110V outlet with your inverter running. You can do what Geoff did adding a DC converter to up 12V to 24-30V so you can run the longer cable. OR you can just wiring it to any DC battery from 12V to 30V.

For us it made perfect sense to go with the DeWalt batteries we already have several Dewalt power tools and batteries we bring with us. They run at 20V which is a good voltage for the Mini. It seems that we get close to 1 hour of runtime for each Ah of battery. I purchased two 10Ah batteries and each runs the mini for 8+ hours. Connect one in the morning. Swap the other before dinner and its will run way past when we fall asleep. We move the Mini anywhere required without untangling and tripping over wiring. I mounted a Dewalt battery charger in the Oliver Attic!

This part will connect to any battery terminal:
https://www.amazon.com/CERRXIAN-DC5521-Power-Pigtails-Cable/dp/B0F8Q4V9FC/

This part works for DeWalt and there are so many other battery choices:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Battery-Converter-Terminals-Robotics/dp/B0CDGR4Y8K/?th=1

BTW, Starlink is offering factory refurbished Minis for $299 now. Sure wish they offered this earlier this year when we made our purchase at 10% off $499.   

Edited 5 hours ago by jd1923

[johnwen]

3 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

@johnwen if you go with the Mini, I strongly suggest forget about all the wiring schemes and just get a battery for it!

You can use the power adapter included 50 ft cord, 30V output plugged into a your 110V outlet with your inverter running. You can do what Geoff did adding a DC converter to up 12V to 24-30V so you can run the longer cable. OR you can just wiring it to any DC battery from 12V to 30V.

For us it made perfect sense to go with the DeWalt batteries we already have several Dewalt power tools and batteries we bring with us. They run at 20V which is a good voltage for the Mini. It seems that we get close to 1 hour of runtime for each Ah of battery. I purchased two 10Ah batteries and each runs the mini for 8+ hours. Connect one in the morning. Swap the other before dinner and its will run way past when we fall asleep. We move the Mini anywhere required without untangling and tripping over wiring. I mounted a Dewalt battery charger in the Oliver Attic!

This part will connect to any battery terminal:
https://www.amazon.com/CERRXIAN-DC5521-Power-Pigtails-Cable/dp/B0F8Q4V9FC/

This part works for DeWalt and there are so many other battery choices:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Battery-Converter-Terminals-Robotics/dp/B0CDGR4Y8K/?th=1

BTW, Starlink is offering factory refurbished Minis for $299 now. Sure wish they offered this earlier this year when we made our purchase at 10% off $499.   

Thanks, John!

[johnwen]

24 minutes ago, Snackchaser said:

Hey John,

Chat GPT is often wrong because it relies on opinions like mine🫢  My opinion is that Gen-3 has slightly better reception because of the larger surface area and its motor driven alignment.  However, I don't think it is a significant difference, certainly not enough to offset the benefits of the Mini.  When there are too many obstructions, neither one is going to work well.  But I agree that the Gen-3 is faster, I think probably because of a better Wifi signal, hence I recommend using the Mini Mesh Node Router with the Mini Dishy.  See my post:  "The new Starlink Mini router, for what ails you."

We used to turn-off the power hungry Gen-3 at night to save our battery, the Mini stays on 24/7, a big benefit.  Also, the dishy spends most of its time on a mast, and the heavier Gen-3 on the same mast used to rock the trailer in breeze.  The mini is small and light as a feather in comparison.  See my post "Tacky Starlink mast."  BTW, I see folks buying padded cases and protectors for the Mini, but  they're pretty rugged and mine just lives in the hidden drawer below the pantry when traveling.  

It's more challenging to route the Gen-3 cable into the trailer, I've posted some designs on this too, see:  "Great news! Starlink Gen-3 is here and it has Rj45 connectors."  Other folks have posted ways to power it from DC, but I've never looked into that.

The Mini is easy to power, and there are portable power supplies available that can be  taken on  hiking trips.  I make a 3d printed version with built in battery charger, hit me up if interested.  I also have a post on powering the Mini from 12 volts with a 12-48 volt Victron converter, this was for one of the early Mini's and before any commercial solutions were  available.  See my post: "Starlink Mini installation, cracking the 12 volt  barrier... or not."  That post also includes a clean method to get the power cord into the trailer.  I still use that power supply today, but there are cheaper power supplies now available.  Albeit, not as good or energy efficient😆

Hope that helps with your decision process!  Cheers, Geoff

Geoff, I appreciate all the time you ( and all ) have taken to help me with my decision.  I'll read the rest of your posts today and tomorrow I'll be at the Bozeman BestBuy spending my money :)  I think the way for me is the mini.  We're not power users...just like to watch a few movies now and then.  Most of our use comes through our Verizon data plans, usually at 2 or 3 bars, sometimes 1 :(  I'm sure SL will outperform if not too many obstacles.  I am interested in using the full length of cord to reach open areas and boost the signal if too far away.  Are those Mini Mesh Node Routers generic or specific to the SL?  And since much time is spent boondocking we want to use DC when we can.

Thanks,

John

[johnwen]

1 hour ago, johnwen said:

Are those Mini Mesh Node Routers generic or specific to the SL?

I visited DISHYtech youtube and see it's an SL product :) $40  So, it looks like I should run 1 powered cable out to the mini (using the 50ft provided cable) and one (not provided) from the mini back into the trailer.

Edited 3 hours ago by johnwen

[johnwen]

3 hours ago, johnwen said:

You can use the power adapter included 50 ft cord, 30V output plugged into a your 110V outlet with your inverter running

Hey John,

So I can use the supplied 50ft cable and the supplied power adapter connected to my A/C with my inverter and all will work well?  I suppose I can also connect to my 1000wh Anker Solix solar generator/battery as well... it also supplies A/C with its internal inverter.  I can at least get up and running and figure all the power options at a later date.

John