Olive2Roam Posted January 18 Posted January 18 Relatively new LE I owners here. We did about 20+ days on the road after picking it up this summer. We are loving everything about our LE I - except, a day on the road nearly always results in one or more window shades falling off at some point during the day. We pick them up and re-mount them and continue on. A quick search of the forum shows that it is not uncommon, however, we recently had one break as a result of falling. Oliver has been great in getting us a replacement but I want to find a remedy before we break another. (Actually the shade material gets buggered up a bit when the fall as well.) Has anyone found a sure fire method of preventing the shades from falling off? Would you consider a drop of super glue on a couple of the clips? We mount them top first and then a firm hand to the bottom to lock them in. They always appear firmly mounted before we take off. Thinking out loud here, I wonder if the LE I single axle is more prone to shades coming loose since it may be a bit more prone to bounce when hitting a bump in the road. We are getting ready for an extended trip in a couple weeks and I would like to find a solution. I know there's a window shade subject matter expert out there. I just need to find him/her. 🙂 1 2024 Legacy Elite Platinum, Hull #1465 2024 Nissan Pathfinder, Rock Creek Edition
johnwen Posted January 18 Posted January 18 Just my 2 cents...we have an LE2 and had the same problem with one of our shades. I also thought they were securely fastened until I realized how the metal clips actually held the window casing on. The backs of the window casings have a recessed channel that accept the metal clips and some were loose or did not protrude far enough into the channels. Some clips have fiberglass strips beneath them and some don't. I guess that was a mod Oliver did to get all clips to hold. The trick for us, after ensuring the screws holding the clips were tight, was to add a strip of fiberglass to a clip, if necessary, to make sure the clip would protrude into the channel far enough to lock in. So if one doesn't seem to grab then it probably need a spacer. And if it already has one it's possible it needs a thicker spacer (I've not seen this however). We don't have the problem anymore but we still occasionally check if the screws are tight. And it doesn't take much to strip those screw holes, so don't overtighten. We found that if we lined up all clips on either the top or bottom channel and popped it in then the other side is very easy to pop in. Hope this helps :) John 3 2022 Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/
johnwen Posted January 18 Posted January 18 24 minutes ago, Olive2Roam said: Thinking out loud here, I wonder if the LE I single axle is more prone to shades coming loose since it may be a bit more prone to bounce when hitting a bump in the road. Could be....also wiggle the corners slightly. If it's not secure you'll know. Best of luck :) 2 2022 Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/
Olive2Roam Posted January 18 Author Posted January 18 10 minutes ago, johnwen said: Just my 2 cents...we have an LE2 and had the same problem with one of our shades. I also thought they were securely fastened until I realized how the metal clips actually held the window casing on. The backs of the window casings have a recessed channel that accept the metal clips and some were loose or did not protrude far enough into the channels. Some clips have fiberglass strips beneath them and some don't. I guess that was a mod Oliver did to get all clips to hold. The trick for us, after ensuring the screws holding the clips were tight, was to add a strip of fiberglass to a clip, if necessary, to make sure the clip would protrude into the channel far enough to lock in. So if one doesn't seem to grab then it probably need a spacer. And if it already has one it's possible it needs a thicker spacer (I've not seen this however). We don't have the problem anymore but we still occasionally check if the screws are tight. And it doesn't take much to strip those screw holes, so don't overtighten. We found that if we lined up all clips on either the top or bottom channel and popped it in then the other side is very easy to pop in. Hope this helps 🙂 John John, That definitely helps. How did you discover the fiberglass spacer, since it was presumably hidden on the back of the clip? I will definitely check this out. Bob 2024 Legacy Elite Platinum, Hull #1465 2024 Nissan Pathfinder, Rock Creek Edition
johnwen Posted January 18 Posted January 18 (edited) Just by noticing some had them and some did not. Yes, they are on the back of the clips. Edited January 18 by johnwen 2 2022 Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/
Olive2Roam Posted January 18 Author Posted January 18 I also stumbled across a post by @Coddiwomple that provides another nice solution. 2024 Legacy Elite Platinum, Hull #1465 2024 Nissan Pathfinder, Rock Creek Edition
johnwen Posted January 18 Posted January 18 12 minutes ago, Olive2Roam said: I also stumbled across a post by @Coddiwomple that provides another nice solution. Haven't seen this but it makes sense. We moved the blackout shade to the bottom also. 1 2022 Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/
Moderators topgun2 Posted January 18 Moderators Posted January 18 In addition to @johnwen's comments regarding the spacing of the bracket from the window frame - My first inclination was to tighten the brackets to the frame - loose screws and bolts tend to make me believe that things should be tight - but in the case of these blinds this thinking was wrong. The "spacers" allowed for the bracket screws to be tight but (as @johnwen says) it also allowed for the bracket to be positioned correctly in order to engage the frame of the blinds properly. Another thought is that since you have already "used" the frame clips multiple times and since these clips were apparently not fully seated in the first place, it is possible that they have lost a bit of "spring" and/or have become slightly collapsed such that they no longer hold as they once did. The solution for this is either new clips (my favorite) or to try to bend the original clips back into something near the original position (do not try to do this while the clips are on the window frame). If you are going to be at the 2025 Owner's Rally let me know and I'll bring you a few new clips. Or, contact Oliver Service and they will send you a couple. Bill 5 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
Olive2Roam Posted January 18 Author Posted January 18 1 hour ago, topgun2 said: In addition to @johnwen's comments regarding the spacing of the bracket from the window frame - My first inclination was to tighten the brackets to the frame - loose screws and bolts tend to make me believe that things should be tight - but in the case of these blinds this thinking was wrong. The "spacers" allowed for the bracket screws to be tight but (as @johnwen says) it also allowed for the bracket to be positioned correctly in order to engage the frame of the blinds properly. Another thought is that since you have already "used" the frame clips multiple times and since these clips were apparently not fully seated in the first place, it is possible that they have lost a bit of "spring" and/or have become slightly collapsed such that they no longer hold as they once did. The solution for this is either new clips (my favorite) or to try to bend the original clips back into something near the original position (do not try to do this while the clips are on the window frame). If you are going to be at the 2025 Owner's Rally let me know and I'll bring you a few new clips. Or, contact Oliver Service and they will send you a couple. Bill Great points, Bill. Oliver is sending a replacement shade as well as new clips, so hopefully between that and the spacer information we can get the shades mounted firmly. Although, I am really tempted to take @coddiwomple 's appoach. Looks like a very secure way to mount them. I appreciate your input. 2024 Legacy Elite Platinum, Hull #1465 2024 Nissan Pathfinder, Rock Creek Edition
SNY SD UP Posted January 18 Posted January 18 @Olive2Roam What tire pressure are you running? 2 Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II "Twins" Hull #665 | 2021 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI Gasser 4dr 6.5' bed
DavePhelps Posted January 18 Posted January 18 Had similar issues with my Legacy1 trailer. Washboarded roads really puts these connections to the test. I had Oliver send me some extra clips which I added in addition to the OEM clips. One or two per shade as I recall. I then used thin nylon washers to shim the clips out so they were all in plane and fully engaged the groove on the back of the frame (use a straightedge). Since then, I have also started towing with all shades in the up position (both sheer and blackout pulled up). This puts the drawbars (?) at the top of the shade frame, placing a little more weight at the top of the frame and not stressing out the clips as much. So far so good. Dave 5 2015 Oliver Elite 1, Hull 107 2025 GMC Sierra HD 2500 AT4, 6.6 L8T (gas)
Galileo Posted August 28 Posted August 28 We’ve always had one shade that was never seated properly - the one at the aft seat at the dinette. I’d know because I’d lead on it and it would pop on, then pop right off when I un-leaned on it. We found one broken clip and got a “free” replacement when we passed through Hohenwald. The problem has gotten worse as time went by. We’re to the point that that shade now falls off every time we hit the road. (So I’m taking it off -before- we leave today!) Upon closer inspection, we found that one channel where the clip snaps into is spread - from pressure and heat I’d guess. Another area of the channel is actually cracked at the “root” of the channel. I tried moving the clips to locations where the channel was still good, but that didn’t really help. The shade over the curb side bed is now starting to show the same malady. So - seems some have resorted to “gluing” the shades on with RTV or similar. I was hoping for something a little less permanent and/pr requiring keying the thing off when desired. My current thinking is some 3M adhesive wire tie mounts - little 3/4” square pads with foam tape on the back. One on the wall by the window, and in on the shade frame. In two or more places around the window. Add a wire tie and it -should- stay in place. Downside: visible and could look jury-rigged. Looking at the relationship between the window frame and the window shade, a square “U” clip could do the job - if I could find one the perfect size and shape. Guess I’ll look. Aside from replacing the shade and all the clips - which will likely fail in time just as the original ones have - has anybody found a permanent and esthetically pleasing fix? 1 2022 Oliver Legacy Elite II Hull #1029 King Bed Floorplan electronics package Truma Aqua-Go LOUD Dometic Penguin A/C LevelMate Pro+ Valterra Electric Black Tank Dump Valve TV - 2025 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali, 3.0l Duramax Diesel, Crew Cab 4WD RealTruck hard tonneau cover Rove R2-4K DashCams Canada: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island
routlaw Posted August 28 Posted August 28 We have run into this issue a few times but only on very rough back country roads, ie BLM or USFS roads. Typically before traveling down these types of roads I will take all 3 off their mounts and lay on the king bed in the back. To my way of thinking the clips seem like a poor connection method for this type of application anyway. Seems to me a better method might be a long run of velcro across the bottom, either that or some extremely strong neodymium magnets. I have seen this type of magnet so strong it's virtually impossible to pull apart. Just a thought or two 2 Legacy Elite II #70
katanapilot Posted August 28 Posted August 28 Has anybody been able to source the shade clips besides from Oliver? And if so, source and part number please? 2020 Elite II Hull #628, Houghton Heat Pump, Victron MP2, SmartSolar, Orion, Cerbo, Lynx distributor and shunt TV - 2011 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Platinum 4WD, Magnuson Supercharger, OME suspension, Wilwood front and rear brakes
Moderators topgun2 Posted Friday at 11:29 PM Moderators Posted Friday at 11:29 PM On 8/28/2025 at 1:01 PM, katanapilot said: Has anybody been able to source the shade clips besides from Oliver? And if so, source and part number please? A couple of years ago I secured a small bag of these clips - probably 20 or so. Be happy to send you a couple if that is what you need. Bill PM me with details 2 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
katanapilot Posted Saturday at 11:12 AM Posted Saturday at 11:12 AM 11 hours ago, topgun2 said: A couple of years ago I secured a small bag of these clips - probably 20 or so. Be happy to send you a couple if that is what you need. Bill PM me with details Much appreciated. I also reached out to Oliver and it sounds like they will send me some. If they don't, I will get back with you directly. 1 2020 Elite II Hull #628, Houghton Heat Pump, Victron MP2, SmartSolar, Orion, Cerbo, Lynx distributor and shunt TV - 2011 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Platinum 4WD, Magnuson Supercharger, OME suspension, Wilwood front and rear brakes
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