Andersen WD Hitch Periodic Maintenance?

[Galileo]

The reprint of the Andersen WD Anti-Sway Hitch instructions doesn’t say much if anything regarding periodic maintenance. 
 

Though ours has been fine for most of three seasons with no real issues or noise. I did notice that the force put on the ball & taper through the coupler and the “whale tale” looked to be causing wear that I would think was fairly predictable. After all, the friction material is only “plastic” and I’d guess the tongue weight and the force of the WD chains - and heat from friction - are going to take their toll.

Anyway, my thinking is that three seasons (long seasons!) are too long to go between periodic maintenance. 
 

I had purchased a spare friction material sleeve and a few other bits that I thought would be likely replacement items, so I had it ready. My plan was to disassemble the unit and replace the friction material and reverse the ball to equalize the wear. 
 

What I found when I took it apart was a bit more than I expected. The plastic friction material was worn thin - practically all the way through - where you’d expect - forward at the top and rearward at the bottom. Unfortunately, there had already been some metal to metal contact between the cone and the housing at both the top and bottom ends. I also found the most forward screw holding the top plate on was bent. Not sure it that was a result of wear or force, or from original assembly.

Anyway, pointing out that there really ought to be some guidance as to recommend replacement of the friction material to catch it before metal gets to metal.

I got mine back together, but not really happy with it, so I ordered a replacement to the tune of about $300 by the time you roll tax into the equation. 
 

I didn’t see a lot of posts about the Andersen WD hitch, so just curious who else may have run into the same issue I did.

Edited February 24 by Galileo
Fat fingers, small screen.

[Tom and Doreen]

Very interesting, thanks!  Here's a link to the procedure: Anderson maintenance.

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, Tom and Doreen said:

Very interesting, thanks!  Here's a link to the procedure: Anderson maintenance.

Thanks for the link Tom & Doreen!

I had hoped that my maintenance would be so straightforward, but, it appears that I should have done it sooner. Then again, four years pulling a Casita is just a mite different than an Ollie LEII!

I wonder why the Casita would even need a WD hitch…. Prolly for the sway control.

Also - I want through the Andersen hitch instructions front to back and back to front. “Maintenance” isn’t really addressed. Oh sure, they say use a bit of lube on the chain tensioning nuts. (I use “Never-Seize” on the threads as well as the thrust face of the washer. Zero galling and a LOT less force to load the WD!)

 

Anderson DOES mention not to use any lube on the ball, lest it contaminate the friction material sleeve. I’ve read some folks doing that, but hey, it’s your trailer! Do what makes you happy.

Really too bad one has to look to YouTube and not an Andersen source to get intel on maintenance…

[Geronimo John]

Galileo:

To lube your ball, or not lube your ball..... A philosophical question of the forum.  Some of us believe that having a bigger ball is better than smaller ball.  Some of of us like bigger and lubed.  Some don't.   Totally depends on your perspective.

I can't speak for anybody but myself and Crazy Horse.  We believe that for our OE2 and F-150 SuperCrew the sway control of our Hull is not need.  I am convinced that Scott Oliver's long nose design tandem axle, shocks and EZ-flex, and light rear end all together make that possible.  That may or may not apply to your trailer loading. Personally I have about 540 pounds of tongue weight as measured at Art's, and no stuff over the rear bumper, stiff Bilstein 5100's on my TV rear end, and Firestone Airbags as well.  We cover huge miles each summer from TX to Idaho/Oregon and the back with lots of detours such as Alaska too.  Never once a sway.  Hence we go with a lubed ball.  Friction cone wear likely will not be a problem for quite a while.   

When I was lurking this web before our 2018 purchase, I was schooled well by John Davies post and pictures about the cone and ball wear issue.  My thoughts were that the contact patch wear for the heavily loaded Anderson dry was simply normal wear.  Solution:  A bigger ball and lube it.  Took a whole two seconds to figure that one out.  So we purchased ours with the larger 2 5/16" Anderson system.  After seven years, my conclusion still that we like having the Weight Distribution of the Anderson, but do not need the sway control..... for our rig.      

BUT:  if your rig is loaded tail heavy, or your TV is a shorter wheel base or lighter, or a bunch of other what if's.... You may want to keep the sway control.  If you do, USE IT. The safety of your family is riding in your hands.  So travel safely and travel far.  And everybody on this forum will support your decision.  If not, let me know and I launch Crazy Horse that way!   LoL

Geronimo John

 

 

Edited February 26 by Geronimo John

[Galileo]

As I said - it’s your trailer, TV, etc.

I’m an OEM kinda guy. I use genuine parts on my truck, replace the tires with what the factory originally installed, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing and maintaining their equipment. 

As my old HS auto shop teacher used to say “when you modify a vehicle, you become a test pilot.” There are enough factors when you’re on the road that you can’t control. I don’t feel the desire to add another one.

So, when Andersen says not to lube the ball because the lube -could- seep down into the friction material - I take them at their word. After all, they designed, built, and tested the thing. I figure they likely know more about it than I do. Besides - with the Andersen design - where the ball turns with the coupler, and the amount of vertical angle change between the TV and trailer are greatly reduced, the need for lubrication as with non WD hitches is pretty much gone. That, and no greasy mess to add to the bruise and cuts you get when you walk into your hitch. 😋

That said, old habits die hard. People are gonna do what they’re gonna do. I don’t see much benefit to trying to lubricate two mating surfaces that aren’t pretty precisely fitted to each other. In fact, grease is more likely to catch grit and dirt that will be held in place and act as grinding compound.

Andersen says don’t lube - I don’t lube. It could even affect a product liability claim.

[jd1923]

3 minutes ago, Galileo said:

I’m an OEM kinda guy. I use genuine parts on my truck, replace the tires with what the factory originally installed, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing and maintaining their equipment.

I’m with you 98% except for tires where often OEM is satisfactory and better performance can be found easily.

OEM auto parts yes, sometimes performance aftermarket. I restored more than 10 vehicles to original condition. Can’t stand an old car chopped or moded in any way. It’s like they wrecked an old car and has no future use even for parts in a boneyard!

Anderson, no grease, no problem. One less thing to maintain. Yes grease collects dirt and grease on  the hitch ball has wrecked many a good pair of pants!

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

1 hour ago, Galileo said:

 

I’m with you 98% except for tires where often OEM is satisfactory and better performance can be found easily.

 

True - OEM tires can be “just OK” and I’m sure better ones can be found - usually for more $$$. (Which explains why the factory put on the ones they did!)

OTOH - pretty sure those Firestone Transport 500 tires that failed and caused several fatal rollover accidents were OEM - but I think they traced that to faulty construction that allowed the belts to delaminate.

I guess the times I’ve put tires on newer vehicles, I just hadn’t done adequate research into the “better” tires, so I defaulted to the research that the factory did. Call me lazy. 

Previous to my two tow vehicles purchase new, my old vehicles were second, third, who-knows-how-many owner vehicles. For those, anything remotely round that held air was deemed “tire”. 😋

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

OTOH - pretty sure those Firestone Transport 500 tires that failed and caused several fatal rollover accidents were OEM - but I think they traced that to faulty construction that allowed the belts to delaminate.

My understanding is that Ford caused the Firestone blowouts that caused I’ve 450 accidents and 250 deaths.

Ford was getting complaints that the Ford Explorer of 25 years ago drove too harsh, “drove like a truck.” A ford exec sent a service advisory memo to the dealers, asking tire pressure to be reduced to 26 PSI from the Firestone spec of 33 PSI!

Ever wonder why only Explorers had these blowouts and not the F150 of the era that had same drive train and tires?

Ford caused the demise of Firestone, arguably the best tire company of the 20th century, certainly the greatest market share.

The public stopped buying Firestone tires. Their stock plummeted trading at pennies on the dollar when the Japanese parent co of Bridgestone Tires bought them out.

Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone created a partnership that lasted for 7 decades until this time. Henry II married the Firestone granddaughter in the 50s. At least this is how I remember the story.

Edited February 26 by jd1923

[Galileo]

Thanks for the history lesson! (I don’t mean that sarcastically btw!) Now that you mention it, I do think I remember low tire pressures leading to overheating leading to failure being a factor.

That said, I thought I had also heard that at least some of these failed tires had rust on the steel wire that was woven into the belts. Apparently that didn’t allow a good bond with the rubber - leading to the delamination. 

As with many of these big legal cases, you really can’t be sure of all the facts. It all comes down to what the lawyers can sell to the jury, and how deep the respective pockets are. 

I didn’t know the Ford/Firestone connection. Ironic that Henry and Harvey were so closely associated, and Henry’s offspring and company brought about Firestone’s demise. Funny that the “Firestone” auto service centers are still (apparently) going strong. 

[Geronimo John]

8 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I’m with you 98% except for tires where often OEM is satisfactory and better performance can be found easily.

Ditto from my side.  I always go for premium tires when they are due, or before.  Yes it costs more.  But it is worth every penny from my perspective.

Galileo:  I have found that the OEM tires tend to be good in stopping distances because that is what many owners want to see in the specifications.  Problem to get those ultra low distances they use tires that are specially made with a softer compound.  That's why they stop shorter.  But it leaves the vast majority of new car buyers wondering why their OEM tires don't last anywhere near as long as their premium replacements.  

So, Galileo your replacement tires that you thought were exact replacements generally are not.  They have a more durable  and longer lasting tread compound.  And the MFG knows this.  So using the same exact tire likely will work fine if it meets your needs. 

Here is where the logic line gets a bit soft.  The MFG of your TV had no idea what or if you are towing.   Or what kinds of roads you are traveling with your Oliver.  Where you will be going...... etc.....  As such, the off the shelf OEM factory tires tend to be a general duty tire.   Hence the need to at least relook at your towing needs as it relates to your TV and where your needs to safely do so.  There are more than a few reams of paper worth of discussions on tire selections posted on this forum.  Maybe worth a look at the posts.  Or just post what your TV is at the bottom of your signature line, and how you intend to use your Ollie.  I feel certain you will get plenty of  good info as a result.      

[Galileo]

3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

So, Galileo your replacement tires that you thought were exact replacements generally are not.  They have a more durable  and longer lasting tread compound.  And the MFG knows this.  So using the same exact tire likely will work fine if it meets your needs. 

All interesting stuff of course, but you lost me on the above. You’re saying the replacement tires I purchased for my vehicle with the same manufacturer, model, and size as the ones the truck came with aren’t the same tire? Even when I get them from the dealer who sold me the truck?(!) If that’s what you’re saying, how are the tires that Bridgestone  sends to a GM assembly plant as “tire A” differentiated from the tires Bridgestone sends to a GMC truck dealer as “tire A”?

It may just be my non-aggressive driving style, but I always get considerably more miles out of my tires than they’re typically rated to deliver. That’s something that I’m fine with. I got 70,000 miles out of the original tires on my previous truck - and I replaced them long before they were near the wear indicators.  I credit that to the fact that I’m a fanatic about monitoring tire pressure, alignment, and rotation. Actually, it’s surprising as I drive on rural Texas roads a lot. They’re “chip seal” surfaces which is reputed to eat up tires pretty aggressively. 
 

 

[Geronimo John]

11 hours ago, Galileo said:

You’re saying the replacement tires I purchased for my vehicle with the same manufacturer, model, and size as the ones the truck came with aren’t the same tire?

Generally speaking as stated, yes.

11 hours ago, Galileo said:

Even when I get them from the dealer who sold me the truck?(!)

I can not comment on what your dealership sells.  Because I never buy tires from a "stealership".

11 hours ago, Galileo said:

If that’s what you’re saying, how are the tires that Bridgestone  sends to a GM assembly plant as “tire A” differentiated from the tires Bridgestone sends to a GMC truck dealer as “tire A”?

As stated above in my post:  "They have a more durable  and longer lasting tread compound."  The logic behind has to do with braking distances for sale of a new vehicle.

Congrats on being a unicorn for getting "considerably more miles out of my tires than they’re typically rated to deliver".  The vast majority of owners towing an OE2 would not be getting considerably more miles out of their tires than they are rated for.  But then that's just basic physics of towing a 6,000 pound trailer with non-paved roads used for boondocking, and for many of us mountains in the mix.  

If you don't venture off road ever, then your highway tires likely are your best choice.  If that does not describe your operations, and mountain gravel roads are in the mix, some owners would say get a good AT tire that is E-rated would be wise.  Personally I use and like the E-rated Nitto Recon's.  But there are many other great tires out there.  Just check the forum and you will be impressed by our owner's experiences.      

GJ

PS:  It would be helpful if you would kindly add to your signature line and profile your TV info.  Thanks!   

[Geronimo John]

AI says it better.  I have to admit that AI is smarter than I am.... by a very wide margin! 

AI focuses on a more general aspect (Ride and miles) whereas my experience was from a performance (braking and miles) perspective.  Either way, message is the same. 

My Michelin Defenders, Cooper and BFG's on new vehicles all wore out faster then their replacements for the same replacement tire.  

GJ

 

[Galileo]

6 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

11 hours ago, Galileo said:

You’re saying the replacement tires I purchased for my vehicle with the same manufacturer, model, and size as the ones the truck came with aren’t the same tire?

Generally speaking as stated, yes.

11 hours ago, Galileo said:

Even when I get them from the dealer who sold me the truck?(!)

I can not comment on what your dealership sells.  Because I never buy tires from a "stealership

Huh - definitely news to me.

In the spirit of “trust but verify” - could you share the source for your assertion that a tire put on a car at the factory -isn’t- the same as a replacement tire of the same manufacturer, label, model, and size? That definitely sounds like a hairball for tire manufacturers to manage to me!

Though I worked for a (Buick) dealership as my first full-time job, I too was loathe to ever take a vehicle to a dealer for repairs or maintenance. These days, NOT wanting to do all of my own maintenance after having done exactly that for 40+ years - I take my vehicles to the dealer. There are several good reasons for this:

They know the vehicle considerably better than I do. Especially important in these days of fuel injection, 15 computers under the hood, and not wanting to buy thousands of dollars of special equipment. Sure, I have my trusty OBDII scanner and more hand tools than most professional mechanics, but these aren’t the days of points and condensors any more. I served my time under the hood, fixing up rusty old beaters, and all the rest.

Frankly, ANY service shop is charging exorbitant rates these days, so there’s not a lot of qualified, “inexpensive” places to get your vehicle serviced. 

My last two vehicles were purchased new, with factory warranties. One more reason to take it to the dealer than Joe Blow shade tree mechanic. 

I’m a little older these days, and frankly, don’t feel like having to crawl under my vehicle unless it’s just me in the middle of nowhere. I CAN if push comes to shove, and I carry enough tools to pretty much repair most things on my truck or trailer, I just choose not to.

I bought my last tires from the dealership(s) because they BEAT the quotes I got from competitors. I also don’t think it’s a bad idea to throw your favorite shop (or dealership) a gravy job once in a while instead of just the warranty stuff. We travel all over the country and Canada as well. I had my truck to at least half a dozen dealerships in as many states for routine service. That said, I take my truck to my “preferred” dealer for as much as I can. I even bought my replacement vehicle there -because- they treated me right. 

Finally, unlike days of old where I could buy quality oil for under a buck a quart, and pay $2 for a filter, these days, by the time I buy the stuff to change it myself, I’m not saving anything. That, and we’re back to crawling under the truck, getting dirty, having to collect, bottle, and tote waste oil to a recycling point. 

I also don’t fly coach on discount airlines anymore. 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Galileo said:

These days, NOT wanting to do all of my own maintenance after having done exactly that for 40+ years - I take my vehicles to the dealer.

I understand, but it’s too much money. What I’ve done to our Oliver in less than 2 years would be near $20K in labor! And that doesn’t include the total restoration of our tow vehicle. I rarely buy new vehicles, last time was in 2001, don’t like warranty claims or insurance, so we go with minimums.

Close to 50 years wrenching for me. Turning 70 in April and I still prefer to do my own work. Hope I can when I’m 80, although very few parts of my body don’t hurt these days! 🤣

[Mike and Carol]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

I’m a little older these days, and frankly, don’t feel like having to crawl under my vehicle unless it’s just me in the middle of nowhere. I CAN if push comes to shove, and I carry enough tools to pretty much repair most things on my truck or trailer, I just choose not to.

Doing ones own maintenance is an individual decision.  I certainly did my own work for years and rarely went to the dealer.  Growing older and more senior at work there just wasn’t time anymore with the long hours, frequent travel and weekend work.  Today’s vehicles are also more technical and complicated.  Now being retired, I just don’t feel like taking the time to get greasy.   Need to spend that time with grandkids, kids and mom next door.  Not to mention traveling and camping.  I’ve got a good Ram dealer and Audi dealer very close by that I’ve been doing business with for years.  To each his own.  Mike

[Galileo]

17 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I understand, but it’s too much money. What I’ve done to our Oliver in less than 2 years would be near $20K in labor!

Please don’t misunderstand me. I totally agree that having dealers - or even independent shops - do ALL of the maintenance would be too expensive. I pick and choose my battles.
 

When Oliver Service said they could replace the black tank dump valve with an electric one for $900 - I said no thanks, bought one off Amazon for $200 and put it in myself. When Oliver sent out the new tire valve stem cores for the tires a year or so ago and suggested taking the trailer to the tire shop, I snorted and did it myself. (Almost) Any idiot can replace a valve stem core! ( the gift card they sent for $25 or $50 or whatever it was wouldn’t have covered having a tire shop do that anyway.)

Likewise - for expediency sake, I addressed my own issues with the Truma water heater. I had neither the time nor desire to seek out a Truma dealer, wait for an appointment, and haggle with the shop and Truma over who pays for the service. Frankly, it was faster and easier to do it myself.

I LIKE fixing things! It’s why my first job was as a mechanic and I worked on my own cars and houses for decades. 

Money is certainly a factor. These days, I’m in a little better situation financially than I was when I was younger, so that has changed my decision making process when it comes to maintenance and upgrades. As I get older, my TIME has become more valuable. 

There’s also another factor in play. My wife and I have sold all of our property and are on the road - domestically or overseas - pretty much 100% of the time. We’re “homeless”. Sure, we have an “official” place of residence, but it’s a studio apartment (kinda) above a friend’s garage that we crash in a couple of times a year between road trips and European vacations. That means that I don’t have the facilities to do much vehicle work. Sure, I could do an oil change in a friend’s driveway, but there’s no place for me to do much involved or extensive work. We also don’t have multiple vehicles these days. So I can’t put one up on jack stands and drive the other one to the auto parts store for brake pads. 

As I said earlier, oil and filters have gone up so much that by the time I buy six or eights quarts of the increasingly special oil my truck uses, I’m not paying that much more to have the dealer do it. That, and I don’t have to drag out the floor jack and stands to rotate the tires. I’m in and out in an hour or so with no dirty clothes, oil to recycle, or bruised knuckles and sore back.

So sure - cost is always a factor, but so are time, effort, and convenience. I do try to weigh all the factors and select the one that best fits the specific situation. 

I’ve become a little more cautious over the years, which is why the current and previous trucks were purchased new. No, a new vehicle with a warranty is no assurance of freedoms from breakdowns, but it not only takes the sting out of a breakdown, it also takes advantage of the odds that a newer vehicle has fewer aging parts to fail. (Though “infant mortality” needs to be considered.) 

I forget exactly where it was - someplace between the Grand Canyon and Lubbock Texas - where we were driving (towing) on mountainous, winding, narrow roads with no shoulders and no “civilization” for miles. That would be a REALLY bad place to have a mechanical issue. Motor club be damned! Right about then I started thinking about Endurance or Ox extended warranties vs the cost of a new vehicle with a new warranty. At one point I had to eat a $500 out of warranty repair for something that failed -just- a few miles too late. I wouldn’t have had the knowledge or specialized equipment to do that repair. 

[Galileo]

20 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

As stated above in my post:  "They have a more durable  and longer lasting tread compound."  The logic behind has to do with braking distances for sale of a new vehicle.

I can’t speak to Goodyear, Pirelli, General, etc - but just out of curiosity, I contacted the friendly folks at Bridgestone - the main “corporate” office, not a dealer.

They assured me that a given Bridgestone model is made exactly the same whether it is shipped to a GM assembly plant or a aftermarket dealer. (They were pushing Firestone service centers.) No different rubber compounds or other manufacturing differences.

They DID say that tires from the GM assembly plant (and ones GM dealers sell) are stored - sometimes for quite a while. They said that this is why tires on your new vehicle can have shorter service lives. They said Firestone service centers get “new tires straight from the factory”. They went further to suggest those who are concerned should look at the DOT markings on the tire to find the manufacture date.

Since they were Johnny on the spot with that storage factor information - I’d wager it’s not the first time that they’ve been asked that question. They suggested that how long a tire has been in storage could have a fairly pronounced effect on its life. I had to assure them that no, I was not contacting them to complain about my tires. They offered twice to set up an appointment to start a warranty claim!

I can’t really even imagine the logistics of making the “same” tire with two different rubber compounds depending on whether it gets shipped to an assembly facility or to a tire dealer. It would also give a given tire a bad reputation - hurting future sales: “I had those tires on my new car from the factory. They wore out in 20,000 miles! I’ll never buy them again!” I would think that it could even cause safety issues - you tear up a tire and replace it with “the same” tire - but it’s different from the one on the other front wheel and it causes a traction difference that leads to loss of control. “Hello ambulance chaser? I’d like to sue Goodyear for $5 million!”

Id be curious to know if other tire manufacturers will come out and say that “yes, we make the same model tire with two different rubber compounds depending upon if it’s shipped to a car assembly plant or to a tire dealer.” I won’t be doing that research though. 

I don’t know where “AI” got its information from, but AI does nothing but lift existing information from the web. And we all know that “if I read it on the internet, it  MUST be true” right? 😋

[Geronimo John]

20 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Close to 50 years wrenching for me. Turning 70 in April and I still prefer to do my own work. Hope I can when I’m 80, although very few parts of my body don’t hurt these days! 🤣

We are in total agreement on all 5 points.  Except I have just a tad more years.

GJ

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Galileo said:

I LIKE fixing things! It’s why my first job was as a mechanic and I worked on my own cars and houses for decades.

My first job was installing stereo systems in cars which led to working through college installing aftermarket kits (alarms, cruise controls, etc.) Install 12-16 automotive accessory kits a week at every named dealership and a few Oliver mods are quick and easy!

Love your quote here. I also enjoy the repairs! Like buying an old motorcycle priced low since it doesn’t run and driving it in the neighborhood a few days later! The of course restoring it fully.

Not the 10-hour day I used to work but a half day teaching (my paying job) followed by a few hours in the garage. Or half the year when I’m not working, a half day on a repair and playing pickleball or going on a hike in the afternoon! Call me nuts, but I/we have always worked our own yard work, and always on properties with acreage!

Don’t understand how full-timers survive, being without a good home attached to the ground! Couldn’t be without my 3-car garage with wrap-around work benches, toolboxes, cabinets and shelves, besides our two outbuildings for more parts and tools. Love when I do repairs using hardware and parts I hoarded from decades ago! No trip required to True Value or The Depot.

Most members here online rave about being retired, not me. Like my life working occasionally. My uncle retired at 51 after selling his half of 3 Chicago restaurants. Moved to Port St. Lucie and although he was a near scratch golfer, got bored, disliked his retired life, feared reinvesting in something new, passed of a heart attack while on a riding mower at age 64. His brother, my father worked everyday of his life until he passed at 92 years. I won’t be at either extreme!

I’d be gearing up for spring yard work soon, but with no real rain or snow in the last 5 months, this will wait until after the summer monsoons!  😂

[Galileo]

21 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

Don’t understand how full-timers survive, being without a good home attached to the ground! Couldn’t be without my 3-car garage with wrap-around work benches, toolboxes, cabinets and shelves, besides our two outbuildings for more parts and tools. Love when I do repairs using hardware and parts I hoarded from decades ago! No trip required to True Value or The Depot.

I am definitely feeling what you’re talking about.

I all but gave away the roller chest and top box I bought when I first started working as a mechanic - 1978. Sold it and two other hardware store roller chests I kept plumbing and carpentry tools in for a song. I took most of my tools “portable”. Wrench rolls, soft toolbag, threw in enough of my hand tools to do most repairs. I couldn’t bear to get rid of my tools though. Most is in storage. 

Yeah, it’s hard to divest yourself of “everything” when you decide to go mobile. We still have a storage unit in Texas. We donated $1,000’s worth of furniture, books, DVDs, etc. It’s amazing how nobody wants furniture - even nice stuff in good condition.  Cleared out TWO homes - the “suburban”home of 38 years and the farm as well. All we kept is stuff that’s sentimental, some clothing, or stuff that’s not valuable to anybody but us, so not worth trying to sell.

The problems with wanting to travel AND have a fixed base are bigger, especially if you want to take a long trip cross-country or an overseas trip long enough to be worth the air fair. I gave up trying to find somebody reliable enough to watch the farm. Even after you get rid of the critters, you’ve gotta have somebody visiting the place or you’ll have squatters or a meth lab in your cabin. That, and the property taxes on the place in the suburban had far exceeded the amount that I had been paying for mortgage. Add regular maintenance, insurance, and utilities to that and it’s easy to divest yourself of that kind of financial burden. It’s also the reason we can enjoy our new lifestyle.

We just came to realize that we always had more fun “on the road” than we did married to a home or property. 

Anyway, I try to keep my hand in it as far as repairs and improvements go. I can pick and choose my projects. I leave the messy, mundane ones to the others. I guess I’ve done enough oil changes and tire rotations that the meager amount of money I’d save by doing it myself isn’t worth the thrill.

[mossemi]

45 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

My first job was installing stereo systems in cars

I also got started in the stereo installation business, but with 4 track tape players.  It was also an after school job.  That experience led to a cell phone installation job 20 years later with General Telephone.  That job led to 30 years in the cellular phone business.  When I retired in 2017, I found immediate employment at home and the list keeps on growing.  The really good part is that I get to pick the next job!

Mossey

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

My first job was installing stereo systems in cars which led to working through college installing aftermarket kits (alarms, cruise controls, etc.) Install 12-16 automotive accessory kits a week at every named dealership and a few Oliver mods are quick and easy!

Love your quote here. I also enjoy the repairs! Like buying an old motorcycle priced low since it doesn’t run and driving it in the neighborhood a few days later! The of course restoring it fully.

We have similar backgrounds. I too was the “new car prep” guy at the Buick dealership. Radios, cruise controls, defrosters, and everything else to make sure the salesman could get the car out the door. 

I did the motorcycle thing too. Rebuilt the engine on a ‘77 XS750-D including a big-bore kit. Funny, in the year 2000 - an 815cc motorcycle was pretty “small”. I had the smallest engine in the advanced motorcycle safety course I took before I got back into riding. I ended up selling all the bikes - I got tired of every driver on the road in Chicago trying to kill me.

I’ve even been known to buy “broken” stuff off eBay to fix and own it cheap. It’s amazing how many people can’t (don’t) read instruction manuals and think something is broken - or can figure out how to put batteries in properly.

[mossemi]

3 minutes ago, Galileo said:

I got tired of every driver on the road in Chicago trying to kill me.

You should have headed west and rode around Starved Rock SP.  It still has a bunch of twisty 2 laner's.

Mossey

[Galileo]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

Most members here online rave about being retired, not me. Like my life working occasionally.

It is a challenge for some folks - typically men - who often derive their identity from their profession. I don’t think that ever applied to me. I worked to live, not lived to work. My old day job changed, the company changed, and I realized I didn’t belong there anymore. I was happy to accept an early buyout and “retire” at 50. That company is now a shadow of its former self. (Think of a big Chicago based media company that used to have a “tower” on North Michigan Ave.)

Corporate wife and I escaped to rural Texas to get away from Chicago winters, congestion, pollution, and politics. Became hobby farmers. Changed our lifestyles dramatically. But, we were still too tied-down to the property. It “owned” us - so it had to go. We enjoyed 10 years of the best organic pork, poultry, and veggies. The freshest eggs - but - we moved on.

Will we do this forever? Probably not. We may end up in a “tiny home” (without wheels though) but probably keep up the international travel. Can’t beat Italy and France for food and wine. The UK & Ireland for beer. Scotland - well, you know. (Actually, the food is really better than most people are led to believe!)