Water Pump Not Working

[dkeen]

2026 Hull 1703

We are at home getting ready to leave on Monday for our first trip.  Cooling down the refrigerator and running the AC.   Just filled my fresh tank for the first time with water and bleach to sanitize as we will not have power or water where we are going.

I set all 5 valves to the appropriate direction.

Flipped pump switch on Seelevel to bring bleach water thru the lines to the faucets.  The little green light did not come on.  The pump did not come on.  Flipped the switch in the bathroom, no change.  The plug on the back of the switch is connected and I wiggled it to make sure there was a good connection.  Did the same for the main plug going into the back of the SeeLevel.  The Battery, Fresh, Grey, and Black level all work correctly.

Checked the fuse and there was continuity.  But when I took the fuse out of the fuse block, the red light next to the fuse did not light up.  I can pull ay other fuse out and the red light comes on next to the fuse.  I think that means there is no power in the circuit to the pump?  I am no electrician, just trying to figure it out. 

Does anyone have any suggestions?

We plan to leave our camping trip early and head to Oliver on Thursday to have our furnace and hot water heater looked at as they do not work either and they were unable to fix over the phone.  It has been a rough start! 

 

     

[Steph and Dud B]

Can you meter the fuse socket with the fuse removed? There should be power on one side.

[Snackchaser]

The pump fuse clearly has power because it's connected to the same bus as the other working fuses.  That red LED blown fuse indicator will only light when there is a load on the circuit.  If the circuit is open, say the pump switch is off, or the pump/switches became disconnected, then there is no load and the LED stays off.  With the DC panel fuse pulled out, try the switching the pump on to see the LED lights.  That will tell you if the is an open connection somewhere in the circuit.  Remember the circuit includes both the hot wire and ground.  It's most likely that an open connection would be at the pump, either one of the the switches, or possibly at the back of the DC panel where the pump circuit connects to the fuse. 

Least likely that it's a broken wire, bad pump, or open ground.  I believe the pumps ground goes directly to the main ground bus, it does not go to the switches, although the switches will have ground potential through the pump motor windings. 

It's possible that the connections to the bathroom switch have come off, but it sounds like you might have checked that already.  

You're on the right track thinking it's an electrical problem because the green light does not work.  However, I would recheck your valve lineup because it sounds like you're trying to draw water in through the boondocking connection.   It is possible that the pump is pressurized and the pressure switch is open preventing the pump from running further. . 

Good luck and let s know what you find.   Geoff

 

 

Edited 3 hours ago by Snackchaser

[Golfnut]

If OLIVER  hasnt change the wire color , its a purple wire from the fuse panel..if you can trace in back from there.. i have an Elite 1.  The wire was loose from a relay plug back by the battery box under the bed, street side..  Has the pump ever worked?  Good luck and stay safe out there..

[Tom and Doreen]

Just for clarity, did you begin the sanitation process by configuring the valves for boon docking mode and pumping the bleach solution into the fresh tank (using the water pump), and did that work? ....Then filling the fresh tank from the fresh tank fill inlet, and configuring the valves for normal mode? ...And now the pump does not work? 

I'm also curious about why your water heater and furnace aren't working, when did you discover that? Did all of these issues happen around the same time?

 

Edited 3 hours ago by Tom and Doreen

[dkeen]

Snackchasser - Pulled the fuse and turned the pump on and no red light in the fuse box.  I did check wiring on the Seelevel, but not under sink as that panel is caulked shut .

Golfnut - The trailer is new and this is the first time I am trying to use the pump so as far as I know it has never worked.

Tom - I have never used the pump (new trailer).  I poured 1/4 cup bleach into the end of the hose and connected it to the fresh water fill.  Filled the tank to 100% and water was draining out in front of tire, changed the valves to the boondocking configuration, turned on the pump and nothing worked.  The lines are not pressurized as nothing comes out of the faucets.  The hot water heater was working when I picked the trailer up last week.  Shame on me for not checking the heater at Oliver, but it was over 90 degrees in Hohenwald.  Headed to the mountains on Monday and the lows are in the 40's so I thought I would learn how to turn on the heater before I left home and it did not work.  There is a W255H code Oliver is helping me trouble shoot.  When we shut everything down and brought back up in order, then had the Truma control panel relearn the connected devices it could not find the furnace or hot water heater.  They think it is a communication error, bad splitter, or a bad CP.  All the data cable connections are secure and the wiring plugs are all connected.     

Thanks for trying to help!  Let me know if you have any other ideas.

We still plan to go on the trip, will just have to haul water, and bring extra blankets.  

[dkeen]

Dud, you are starting to get above my electrical knowledge which is easy to do😉.  I assume I should set to 20V DC, hold black probe to ground bus, then red probe to each side of the fuse with the switch on?