Reset 2.0 has started squeeking when backing up

[DunnYet]

Reset 2.0 (2023 Hull 1364 LE II) with Dexter Neverlube factory axles. We are on the road leaving Grand Junction with brand new Alcan springs  and headed up into Utah and Wyoming. Yesterday after picking up and today backing into a site in Utah I noticed a slight squeak when backing up.

(1) Should I be worried?

(2) What should I look for while I am doing under trailer yoga tightening the u-bolts etc.

Per the yellow sheet I tightened the bolts to proper torque at 12, 75 and will do in the morning before we hit the road. Also wheel lugs to 100 ft lbs based on the forum information.

Brake test on leaving the park this morning worked fine, seemed to be more powerful so I reduced brake gain to 5 from normal 7. 

Attached a photo of the axle hub for reference - what should I be looking for? Let me make this clear - I don’t think that this is something from the spring install, but need to know what to look at. I don’t want to kill the brakes on the way back to Texas through ignorance.

Edited Saturday at 04:13 AM by DunnYet
Autocorrect

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, DunnYet said:

I noticed a slight squeak when backing up.

This could be nothing. Could be something squeaking from the new leaf springs. Alcan torque numbers are high. The springs or a very tight bolt can squeak.

But to answer your first question, "should I be worried?" There are things you could look into...

First thing you can do in the morning, parked at the campsite, is use your stabilizer jack to lift that side up. Spin both tires one at a time. Hopefully you do not here squeaking running this test because it would mean a Nev-R Lube bearing is failing. However, this is not a conclusive test, since when lifted there is no load on the wheel bearings.

These bearings can last many years, warrantied for 5 years, but can fail at any time. A low probability cause since your Oliver is relatively new, unless a whole lot of miles have been towed. 

Also, with the wheels lifted do the 3 - 9 o'clock position pushing back and forth and 6 - 12 positions to see if there is any free play. If good, you should NOT be able to budge the wheels at all.

After you break camp, do some slow towing forward and backing up in an open area where you can take your time. One of you driving, the other with ears close the Oliver wheels on the side it's squeaking. See if you can reproduce the sound and try to pinpoint the location if possible.

Your shocks look terrible! The bushings were greatly over-tightened when installed (bushings flat and way too many threads showing above the top washer). Shocks can make squeaking sounds. This would be your best-case scenario as you can drive to Texas and back without shocks on an Oliver without causing harm. In fact, if you believe it is a particular shock, remove it to see if the squeaking goes away. At some point they should be replaced, but they are not critical in your getting home.

If it gets worse and you're not too far already from Alcan Springs, it may be a good idea to go back. You're a customer. They have the tools and expertise and would certainly take the time to help you. If it is a bearing failure, they could change it for you, and likely under warranty on a 2023 trailer! They are a Dexter Authorized Reseller. At least call Lew or Tim. Let them know of your situation and get their advice and help if needed.

If it doesn't get any worse, you could play it by ear and continue to Wyoming. Keep in mind a return through Grand Junction to Alcan Springs may be necessary if it gets worse. This sure beats being somewhere else in the country, far from home, not knowing where to go for service.

Best wishes to you in your travels! JD

Edited Saturday at 06:49 AM by jd1923

[DunnYet]

6 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Your shocks look terrible! The bushings were greatly over-tightened when installed (bushings flat and way too many threads showing above the top washer). Shocks can make squeaking sounds. This would be your best-case scenario as you can drive to Texas and back without shocks on an Oliver without causing harm. In fact, if you believe it is a particular shock, remove it to see if the squeaking goes away. At some point they should be replaced, but they are not critical in your getting home.

Thanks for the detailed options. @jd1923 - Please rest assured - that was a “before” photo from my “replace the completely trashed factory shocks with bulldog shocks.” I should have cropped that out - I was just trying to get a reference for the axle type and that was the best photo I had in my library of the hub. Will put in some better photos this morning. I was so focused on getting a good clear hub shot that I didn’t see the “gorilla” in the background.

Will report back on findings. Am also going to call the folks at Alcan for their thoughts. I just wanted to get the thoughts out of my head and into the forum brain before going to sleep last night.

 

[DunnYet]

20 hours ago, jd1923 said:

First thing you can do in the morning, parked at the campsite, is use your stabilizer jack to lift that side up. Spin both tires one at a time. Hopefully you do not here squeaking running this test because it would mean a Nev-R Lube bearing is failing. However, this is not a conclusive test, since when lifted there is no load on the wheel bearings.

These bearings can last many years, warrantied for 5 years, but can fail at any time. A low probability cause since your Oliver is relatively new, unless a whole lot of miles have been towed. 

Test completed. All wheels turned silently, except the curb rear wheel. On that wheel forward rotation is silent, rear rotation (as in backing up the trailer) generates a dragging squeaking noise from the wheel.
 

20 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Also, with the wheels lifted do the 3 - 9 o'clock position pushing back and forth and 6 - 12 positions to see if there is any free play. If good, you should NOT be able to budge the wheels at all.

Performed this test on all four wheels, including the curb rear indicated above. No movement, and I gave it my best linebacker effort.

20 hours ago, jd1923 said:

After you break camp, do some slow towing forward and backing up in an open area where you can take your time. One of you driving, the other with ears close the Oliver wheels on the side it's squeaking. See if you can reproduce the sound and try to pinpoint the location if possible.

Did not perform this test given that I had isolated it in the first test.

@jd1923 based on my understanding of your troubleshooting matrix, this is pointing towards bearings. I did get a photo of the label on the rear axle and included it below. (I also took a shot of the bulldog shock attachments while I was down there. Thoughts? It looks like they were reinstalled a bit tighter than I had them originally. May pull and replace with new rubber bumpers when we get home.

Given that we are second owners on Hull 1364, should I contact Dexter or Oliver about the potential warranty claim? Or am I out of luck on the axle waranty?
 

[DunnYet]

20 hours ago, jd1923 said:

At least call Lew or Tim. Let them know of your situation and get t

Started calling at 7:30 this morning. Made three calls before I realized that in the real world it's Saturday.🤦‍♂️

Will try again on Monday.

[Geronimo John]

I for sure know that "Duhh" feeling.  

Hope it works out well for you Monday.

GJ

 

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, DunnYet said:

Test completed. All wheels turned silently, except the curb rear wheel.

Excellent work! You got a lot done today. 😎

I have no idea how long these bearings are good for once they give the first clue. We're going to find out though, yours being the first experience on our forum. Some of y'all who boo-hooed my bearing replacement thread, time to rethink your position.

A little noise in reverse. I think that's better than noise going forward or both directions. I would continue on your planned trip. Every day or two when you're leveling, lift that wheel and give it another spin. You have pinpointed your issue and can see how it progresses with miles towing.

2 hours ago, DunnYet said:

Did not perform this test given that I had isolated it in the first test.

Exactly, there is no need.

My bet is you'll get back to Texas on that bearing! But what do I know? If it gets bad, the bearing is easy to source, and a good trailer shop can replace it. I'll link my bearing replacement thread below.

An Authorized Dexter Reseller should be able to replace it under warranty. You have a 2022 date on that axle and given the 5-year warranty is correct, you should be covered. I do not believe there is an original owner clause but find the limited warranty statement online to understand your rights. OTT, another authorized shop or Dexter direct. Your choice, OTT will just take more time. I'd go with a local authorized shop, hopefully back in Texas.

If it gets bad when you're still in Wyoming, you always have the Alcan option. I usually forget it's Saturday too! If needed, you could call ahead to order the part. If so, send them your label picture. BTW, Dexter may not provide warranty replacement for a minor squeal. It needs to get worse and truly fail, the noise will be somewhat louder! 🤣

2 hours ago, DunnYet said:

I also took a shot of the bulldog shock attachments while I was down there. Thoughts? It looks like they were reinstalled a bit tighter than I had them originally. May pull and replace with new rubber bumpers when we get home.

Don't wait 'til you get home. Given they were correct and Alcan just reinstalled them a bit tight, they have not yet been damaged. Loosen them as soon as you get a chance. They're Nylok nuts and will stay put. You'll be under the trailer with your torque wrench anyway, LOL! The rubber should oval-out some but not mushroom over the support metal like in your picture. I see 7 threads on that stud and 4 +/- might be the right count. Make them all the same. Buy new bushing sets later if they get bad.

Keep us posted and do enjoy your trip!
So cool, you got this worked out quickly! 😎

 

Edited yesterday at 05:30 AM by jd1923

[Tom and Doreen]

On 6/13/2026 at 12:12 AM, DunnYet said:

Yesterday after picking up and today backing into a site in Utah I noticed a slight squeak when backing up.

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment. The drum brakes are 'self adjusting' but it's not always a perfect system.  There could also be built up debris, brake dust, etc. that is interfering with the brake shoe or components. 

I think it's a good sign that the brakes don't squeak in the forward direction. Because the shoes wear-in mostly when applied when moving forward they are less likely to squeak when rotated in that direction. 

Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them. 

 

[Steph and Dud B]

1 hour ago, Tom and Doreen said:

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment

That was my first thought. We have one "Never Adjust" brake that always sets itself a little tighter than the other 2.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Tom and Doreen said:

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment. The drum brakes are 'self adjusting' but it's not always a perfect system.  There could also be built up debris, brake dust, etc. that is interfering with the brake shoe or components. 

I think it's a good sign that the brakes don't squeak in the forward direction. Because the shoes wear-in mostly when applied when moving forward they are less likely to squeak when rotated in that direction. 

Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them.

Good thought Tom (and Dudley). Could be the brake shoes, but I would think @DunnYet would have noticed more than a squeak when spinning the wheels if this was true. 

The shoes, when the self-adjusters are working correctly, should just slightly drag on the drum and you should hear and feel drag as you spin in either direction. Correct the brakes are worn in rolling forward, something to consider for sure.

The circular pattern of the shoes is not perfectly round like the drum. If the squeak has some pulsating pattern this could be true. If it's a constant squeal when spinning, then more likely the bearing.

A three-year-old trailer should not have bearing or brake issues. IMHO, 3 years would be minimal time for a first inspection. This is supposed to be a 5-year 100K system. Also understand to check the brakes the outer circlip and spindle bolt must be removed. The bolt is on at 150 ft-lb and you must be able to replace it and retighten to this spec.

I don't think a buildup of brake dust would do this. If the trailer was dragged through a lot of water on and off, then perhaps.

I just lifted our Oliver and spun the two wheels on one side. I heard the constant drag showing the shoes are adjusted nicely. On one I heard a slight chirp in reverse, it went away immediately. Nothing you would call a squeal, but it plays to your hypothesis. Mine are like brand new though. I installed new D52 axles 10 months ago and have only 3,600 miles on them.

@DunnYet, next time you do the spin test, try to focus on what kind of sound and where it's coming from, dead center or on the perimeter. You could use the tube in ear approach in lieu of a stethoscope. Constant squeal or something more dragging and pulsating? 

[DunnYet]

5 hours ago, Tom and Doreen said:

Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them. 

Unfortunately, the original owners were not "detail oriented." After looking at the trailer the first time, Rebecca (who had been talking to one member of the couple) and I (talking to the other one) compared notes and could not come up with a route that would take the stated mileage (5k) and the places visited.

Yes - we were really in love with the idea of a LE II and based on our experience with our LE I figured the Oliver build quality could overcome any reasonable maintenance neglect. 🙂

I was wondering about the brakes - especially since (1) the axles had to be removed to put on the new springs and (2) the involved disconnecting and reconnecting the wires (assumption since the brake wires have really well applied new connections which look like Alcan quality work).

When were brakes inspected - not since we have had the trailer. Need to do that when we get back to Dallas. I'm sure someone has done an excellent tutorial on it. Suggestions welcome in case my forum search skills are not up to par.

[DunnYet]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

The circular pattern of the shoes is not perfectly round like the drum. If the squeak has some pulsating pattern this could be true. If it's a constant squeal when spinning, then more likely the bearing.

 

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

@DunnYet, next time you do the spin test, try to focus on what kind of sound and where it's coming from, dead center or on the perimeter. You could use the tube in ear approach in lieu of a stethoscope. Constant squeal or something more dragging and pulsating? 

@jd1923 during our pre-launch procedures tomorrow morning (heading to Nebraska) I will lift the curb side and confirm constant or pulsing. I'm thinking pulsing, but I'm not sure enough not to test.

[DunnYet]

@jd1923 @Tom and Doreen not trying to columbo here - but this conversation made me think about the one thing we did get when we purchased the trailer - the service records. I went back and reviewed them (yay for cloud storage and scanning in all documents) and the plot thickens.

There was this notation - and the sellers mentioned that Oliver had done axle work under warranty and replaced tires. See image below. I'm trying to figure out if right means curb, and if they mean all brakes and hubs? Is there possibly a link since it's the rear curb wheel that's having the problem, and that definitely rear regardless or left or right.

 

[jd1923]

28 minutes ago, DunnYet said:

not trying to columbo here - but this conversation made me think about the one thing we did get when we purchased the trailer - the service records.

Good find, Detective Columbo! 🤣

First time I heard the terms curbside and streetside was on this forum. The automotive industry uses left and right from the driver's point of view in the driver's seat. Whether I'm working on my Dodge truck, one of our Toyota products, or any vehicle if an auto part is unique left to right, you will see an L or R printed on it or in the part#.

Go figure the wheel you are having an issue with is one that had a prior issue, also the one OTT replaced! Now you must enter a Service Ticket since OTT is already involved. Strange no date on this receipt. Maybe you have a larger picture showing it.

Looks like they replaced everything on your right rear. They usually remove the entire braking plate and replace it with a new one that has the shoes, springs and everything. This is the way these are serviced. Nobody just replaces shoes on trailers anymore. The full assemblies are not very expensive (the drum/hubs with bearings are).

It states ALL BRAKE ASSEMBLIES AND HUBS which means more than one but above it does state RIGHT REAR. The "HUBS" are integrated to the drums and the bearing is in the hub. This means regardless of where your squeaking is coming from it's coming from a part replaced already under warranty.

When you spin your tire tomorrow, inspect the tire carefully for any bald spots or even scuffs on the tread surface. The tire was also replaced since it was "flat spotted" due to the brakes locking.

Question is WHY? Why is squeaking occurring at the same RR location? The brakes locked last time but we cannot conclude it's the same cause today unless you find some flat spotting which would indicate brakes.

Everything was replaced with new parts. I sure would like to know when. Maybe you can determine the date from related paperwork you have. Back to work, Columbo! 😎

[Hokieman]

22 hours ago, DunnYet said:

(I also took a shot of the bulldog shock attachments while I was down there. Thoughts? It looks like they were reinstalled a bit tighter than I had them originally. May pull and replace with new rubber bumpers when we get home.

There has been several threads on the shock bushings being over compressed.   Following is one of them, with good pics on how it should look when the nut is tightened correctly.    My suggestion is to take the dished washers from the old Monroe’s and insert them between the metal frame and the new bushing on each shock on top and bottom.   This will better support the bushing to help keep it from hanging over and getting stress cracks.  On mine, I had to grind off a bit of the upper dished washer to get it to fit snugly.     No need to replace the bushings, they are still good, just loosen them up.   Easy to do.

 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7138-any-tips-for-leaf-spring-maintenance/#comment-77118

[DunnYet]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Strange no date on this receipt. Maybe you have a larger picture showing it.

 

Yeah - me trying to be privacy sensitive to the previous owners since their names are on the full receipt and also finish the post before Rebecca finished cooking dinner. I'm on my (home) mac not my (work) win11 machine and the screenshot works differently. I copied the date and did not paste it.

6/18/2024 is the date of the work order.

Sending you the unredacted workorder privately.

Will open a ticket at Oliver.

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

When you spin your tire tomorrow, inspect the tire carefully for any bald spots or even scuffs on the tread surface. The tire was also replaced since it was "flat spotted" due to the brakes locking.

Will double check when I do the "pulse test" in the morning. I just had the tires pulled and TPMS units installed (pared with the Ford truck displays) and Discount Tire did not note any issues - and that's money to them 🙂

One note - part of the launch procedure for every launch is to do a rolling at idle trailer brake stop check using the manual traler brake on the Ford integrated brake contoller. I have been running at 7.0 - after picking up from Alcan the brakes seemed stronger so I reduced to 5.0 and achieved the same performace on the idle rolling brake check. All relative numbers, but want to make sure to put in all the data.

[jd1923]

Just two years old and squeak!!! 🤣

RE the gain on your brakes. My take is the old 1750 LB leaf springs were quite forgiving! The 2750 LB Alcans not so much. The old suspension would allow the hull to porpoise when the brakes contacted. The new suspension will not, so brake contact to road is immediate! More so because your springs have not had break-in time.

Put your gain higher when you get back on steep mountain roads, maybe up to 6. And maybe you don't need 7 anymore.

My older truck does not have a factory brake controller. The default gain on the Tekonsha is 6.0. I bring it up to 6.2 in the mountains and sometimes down to 5.8 around town.

Looking forward to what you see from you inspection tomorrow!

[Geronimo John]

6 hours ago, jd1923 said:

RE the gain on your brakes.

Good advice.

Just be careful not to have any of the four individual trailer tires lock up when doing a panic stop.  Apparently my curb rear brake on Ollie locked up last season and a flat spot was the result on the tire.  Found it during routine pre-trip annal inspection.  I plan on replacing my 2018 Michelin's next season so just put the unused never on the ground spare tire on that location and am good to use the slightly damaged one as a spare for this season.  

Very happy that OTT gives is a full size matching spare!

GJ