Progressive Industries Surge Protector

[Bborzell]

My wife and I have been looking at Oliver Trailers (Elite II) owned by folks who are relatively close to where we live.  The most recent delivery (2 weeks old) had the surge protector enclosed under one of the dinette seats.

 

According to the details on the optional surge protector, it has a display that shows conditions as well as faults.  It seems odd that this display is not visable.  One might plug on into a faulty hookup and have the display reveal a potential problem, but not know that the issue exists.

 

Anyone have experience with this issue?  Since the product info shows a photo with a remote display, is it likely that Oliver is switching to a unit that has the display mounted in the coach?

 

I put this question to the Oliver folks but have not heard back yet.

[John E Davies]

I can't say whether Oliver will add the remote display, but it seems likely to me. It would be cheap and very easy to do. You could easily do it after delivery. The wiring is a simple plug and play data cable.

 

Personally it is not something I would lose any sleep about when I ordered a trailer.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[bwright]

I installed a progressive surge protector under the dinette seat of my oliver elite and then mounted the remote display under the dinette table under the power converter.  I can see it from my entrance door and it is not a problem with the light while sleeping.  It works great.  Be sure to read the instructions for it's use and what the codes mean.

[DavidS]

My solution to this potential problem will be to test the electricity before hooking up. There is a great web site that explains RV electricity: http://www.myrv.us/electric/

 

They describe a simple device to test both the circuit and the voltage here: http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/tester_30amp.htm I ordered all the parts for this device from Amazon for $27.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I

 

https://www.amazon.com/Globe-Electric-46505-Single-Tap-Grounded/dp/B007XQORTO

 

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Products-12-4055-Voltage-Meter/dp/B002P48KLK

 

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU

 

I plan to use this simple tester before I hook my future Oliver up to shore power.

 

David

[Bborzell]

Thanks to all for your replies.  In addition, Oliver got back to me and noted that they had been giving thought as to where to mount the remote display without intruding into the coach and having things get caught on it (it apparently sticks out more than an inch from a surface mount).

 

I have seen the same protector mounted in another trailer with the display viewable from the rearmost (opened) storage door on the shore power side.  That would allow you to be looking for offending codes as you plug in.  In my view, the sooner a fault is discovered, the better.

 

I have also used a standalone circuit checker (just remembered that I let it go with the Class C MH that we sold this week).  I agree that that one of these devices is a good alternative to not being able to read the codes on the hard wired protector.  At the same time, Oliver shows the model with the remote display so taking a shot at getting it installed at the factory makes sense to me.

 

 

 

Thanks again.

 

 

 

Bob

[Laps]

Thanks to all for your replies. In addition, Oliver got back to me and noted that they had been giving thought as to where to mount the remote display without intruding into the coach and having things get caught on it (it apparently sticks out more than an inch from a surface mount). I have seen the same protector mounted in another trailer with the display viewable from the rearmost (opened) storage door on the shore power side. That would allow you to be looking for offending codes as you plug in. In my view, the sooner a fault is discovered, the better. I have also used a standalone circuit checker (just remembered that I let it go with the Class C MH that we sold this week). I agree that that one of these devices is a good alternative to not being able to read the codes on the hard wired protector. At the same time, Oliver shows the model with the remote display so taking a shot at getting it installed at the factory makes sense to me. Thanks again. Bob

 

I'm going only by memory, recalling from when I did the tour, but how about above the panel switches at the entry area?  High enough it shouldn't get snagged by anything.

 

 

[Bborzell]

As a followup, I spoke to Progressive Industries about the value of an accessable digital readout.  They indicated that the display is there for several reasons and that easy visual access is important for each of the reasons.

 

Trouble shooting is much easier if the owner can read error/fault codes as they occur without having to remove access panels or ports.  With respect to getting a clean bill of health from the unit immediately upon plugging in (or by using a standalone circuit tester), that reading is a brief snapshot in immediate time and as more folks arrive and place greater demands on what might be a marginal electrical service system at a given park, the display might well begin to show reflection of changing conditions that are not desirable as things are changing rather than later on when the only option for voltage dropping below 104 volts, for example, is a total shutdown.

 

I have mixed thoughts about where the remote dispkay should be mounted for best use under most potential need scenarios.  Outside the coach but on the wall of the power side storage area makes sense for plugging in and getting an immediate diagnosis.  Inside the coach would be good for monitoring changing conditions.  Maybe that is why Progressive Industries offers an additional digital display.

 

 

 

But, wherever the display is placed, I would like to be able to check on it without having to remove panels.

[John E Davies]

Maybe that is why Progressive Industries offers an additional digital display. But, wherever the display is placed, I would like to be able to check on it without having to remove panels.

 

A Bluetooth P. I. app would be very handy in this application. I don't see it happening tho.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[ScubaRx]

As our Oliver was one of the first off the line, we did not have the opportunity to order most of the options that are now available.  Early on, I bought a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Hardwired 30 Amp RV Surge Protector and installed it into our trailer.  It has worked flawlessly and has proved to be a useful addition as it has caught several "problems" in other people's wiring.  Its one failing feature was the butt ugly remote display that came with it.

 

First, it is designed to be surface mounted and it does stick out almost an inch.  You could possible overcome that obstacle but the connecting cable from the suppressor is plugged into the bottom rather than the back.  So you're sorta stuck with a surface mount.

 

Second, the display remains on all the time and is constantly rotating through several different values.  This may not bother some folks but we have so many idiot lights that are always glowing, that it's not possible to achieve a really dark interior at night without covering them all with tape or something.  That's not feasible for us.  As far as brightness goes this display is far and away the worst of the bunch.

 

I do agree that the display should be easily visible without jumping thru too many hoops.  Some have suggested that it be mounted outside so that it is able to be seen as you are plugging in.  There's nothing wrong with that idea but the way the suppressor works we did not find that necessary.  If there is a fault outside the trailer, the nanosecond you plug in, the electricity is stopped at the suppressor BEFORE it can reach anything in the trailer and do any harm.  The readout will give the error code and you can take it from there.  You have the ability to turn off the suppressor and bypass it if you need to (probably not the best idea in most cases.)

 

We chose to mount our display inside the cupboard, cabinet, pantry (whatever name you've assigned to it) centered right under the upper shelf.  Our reasoning was: it is out of sight, it is easily viewed at any time, it is usually not covered regardless of how much you put into the cabinet and wiring was a snap with only one hole to drill.

 

 

 

 

 

[John E Davies]

Reviving an old thread..... I got the Progressive Dynamics surge suppressor with my new Oliver and it came with a "generator plug" and no instructions. It is labeled "For Generator Use Only".

 

When I tried running the trailer off my new (used) Yamaha EF2400ishc (thanks again Mike!) the surge suppressor would not let it connect. I googled the generator plug and came up with this: .... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYSFQSW/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I321CE0IR3BKDD&colid=1X5H11EH41351

 

As well as this discussion of why it is needed: .... http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f34/g-n-bonding-plug-28086.html

 

I plugged it into the unused socket on the generator and all is well.

 

 

 

That last pic is with the electric water heater (12 amps constant) and the converter (variable amps, lowering with time as the batteries get topped up) running together. It is nice to be able to see the amp load and adjust it as needed at the circuit breaker panel to keep the load reasonable. My Air Command 13.5k (the smaller unit) starts and runs fine at 9 to 10 amps with no other loads and I think I could get away with that and the converter also, as long as I made sure the converter was drawing less than 10 amps and the air conditioner thermostat was turned cold enough that it was not cycling on and off.....

 

I am using a great big 10AWG super duty 15 amp, 25 ft cord and it shrugs off these loads with no sign of overheating. The generator receptacles are 20 amp, not 15.

 

I could just switch the PD box off (bypass mode) and not use the generator plug, but I really like to see the amp draw on the display. I for one would rather it be in the open, with a light shield for night time.

 

Finally, I labeled my breakers with a silver Sharpie so I could see at a glance what they are for, instead of trying to read the tiny printed lables on the door, facing the WRONG DIRECTION. Why doesn't this panel have the hinge on the right (correct) side?

 

 

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[Mainiac]

We elected to go with a portable Progressive unit. We plug it into the power receptacle and know instantly whether or not everything is ok. No need to go inside. Once the unit reads ok, we can plug in our unit. Done.. It has a lifetime warranty. We do carry a lock with a cable (a pistol security lock) to secure the unit to the pedestal in case the bouncing lights requires someone to "borrow" it...

[JuniorBirdMan]

I've been using the portable unit for years and it has paid for itself several times.

 

Two years ago while on a caravan to Mexico and Belize I watched two of our crowd plug into pedestal power only to hear some crackling noises as the 240 volts pretty much fried their electrical systems, so checking the pedestal power is a must. These units are somewhat expensive (in the $250 range) but they do that and more and are cheaper than the catastrophic alternative. They also protect from overvoltage/undervoltage by interrupting power as the voltage oscillates during the day like when more RVs plug in and unplug. That's something that is monitored and protected continuously instead of  just using a circuit tester before plugging in to the pedestal. The interruptions happened several times a day in some places in Mexico and I've seen it once in the USA.

 

I've since gone to the hardwired version and wired it to protect power from the pedestal as well as from the generator, mostly so I can see how many amps I'm drawing when on generator power. Similar to ScubaRx, I hid the display in one of the overhead cabinets so it's out of the way but easy to get to. Now I don't worry about the unit "walking away" and it turns out to be less expensive than the pedestal-mount version.