Bshaffer Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 We are slowly trying to learn the systems of our new to us Ollie. I have been googling and youtubing unsuccessfully on how to use the black pull handle in the bathroom labeled "back flow preventer". Right now it's in the "open" configuration. When do I close it, if ever? I'm trying to learn these systems before I screw something up that will cost us a fortune to fix. Never had a camper with water heaters, black tanks, ceiling fans, grey tanks, etc. lol I think I've finally figured out how the fan works. I couldn't figure out how to work it but then I realized that is because the little fuse knob is sketchy. If I wiggle it it starts working again. I thought I was doing it wrong! Got it to close automatically when it started raining! Woohoo! Does everyone just leave it set so it will open and close by itself? Oh I guess I better not do that. It would be my luck that the fuse gets wonky and then it won't shut in the rain. No idea how to fix that! We are going camping next weekend and I want to at least use the potty. ;) no ideal yet about the water heater so no showers yet. I need a "RV for dummies" book. Thank you for any basic knowledge help you can provide a newbie! :) Brandi Shaffer
Mainiac Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 Pull in to a campsite. Ask anybody there and I bet they would be happy to show you about the water heater. It is the same as every other water heater on the market. If you have one you might as well use it. Basically fill the heater with water before turning it on. If it does not fill probably there are bypass valves that prevent antifreeze from away entering the tank during winterizing. Those valves are inside the camper. Open the outside cover, locate the temp/pressure relief valve ( usually near the top middle) pull up on the little silver handle until water comes out Turn on the heater. Run the faucet to get out the bubbles. In about 6 minutes you should have hot water. Now for the black handle in the bath: Push it in and it shuts the valve (we assume yours is the same as ours). That prevents the water from the tank 'sloshing' up into the shower pan as you go down a rough road (or sudden stop). It does happen. Last thing we remember to do. Don't forget to open once stopped or your sinks won't drain. (I think ours vents better with it open too). Another part of the process that we do is make sure there is only just a very little water in the toilet bowl. You don't want that splashing around either. We do put a little water in each tank before a trip, that way going down the road the splashing water helps clean the tanks. 2
Moderators SeaDawg Posted July 16, 2017 Moderators Posted July 16, 2017 It's very important to know that there is water in the tank before you turn on the heater. Sherry 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good.
John E Davies Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Now for the black handle in the bath: Push it in and it shuts the valve (we assume yours is the same as ours). That prevents the water from the tank ‘sloshing’ up into the shower pan as you go down a rough road (or sudden stop). It does happen. Last thing we remember to do. Don’t forget to open once stopped or your sinks won’t drain. (I think ours vents better with it open too). Well, the bath sink will drain, but after the 1.5 inch drain pipes fill with water, it will back up and the shower pan starts to fill through its drain opening. When your socks get soaked, you will remember to pull the handle. You probably won't forget after that., John Davies Spokane WA SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.
John E Davies Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 I should have asked: do you have the manuals that are normally delivered to the owner? There are many! 95% of your questions will be answered there. Buried in an unlikely tab of the main Oliver header is the "Oliver University" which is their name for Support Documents. There is lots of stuff to to downlad and look at, and growing all the time. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/oliver-university/ But don't ever be reluctant to ask here.... John Davies Spokane WA SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.
Try2Relax Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 I should have asked: do you have the manuals that are normally delivered to the owner? There are many! 95% of your questions will be answered there. A word of advice to owners of newer Olivers, responding to old model owners, things are not the same as they used to be, the manual for #69 is a 1/4" thick floppy binder, B's unit might just be a sketch pad, if she even has the original. Luckily Reed, I think, had posted a PDF version online, I downloaded that. I would recommend doing so, most systems will be similar enough to what your needs are, and being an educator I'm sure you'll be able to discern the differences. John, thanks for the reminder of the University, forgot those were there and downloadable. To get all the air out of my water heater I open the relief valve on the outside and fill it until it runs out. Randy One Life Live It Enjoyably 2017 F350 6.7L SRW CC LB 2015 Oliver Elite II Hull #69
Bshaffer Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 Manuals? Oh I have something. A collection of odd and end papers. Mostly advertising fliers for appliances. I have hull number 10. I don't think manuals were high on the priority list at that time. I've read them through at least four times. They assume you already have background knowledge in RVing and skim over the basics. The manuals online concentrate on the newer models and usually the bigger one. Many things are not even covered. I still have unlabeled switches at the door area that I have no idea what they do. Even Pete doesn't have the same setup and his is the same year model. I think these Olivers were tweaked on every hull in the beginning so they are slightly different. I have truly been searching for weeks so I wouldn't have to pester people here. I've watched numerous "RV for dummies" videos. I don't mind trial and error. I just don't want to cause an expensive screw up. We are camping this Thursday so I figured I ran out of time and needed to know what that black handle was for. Brandi Shaffer
Mainiac Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Not sure a water heater will ignite on propane, unless it is full of water. On electric the element will come on and ruin the element, and probably your day. Don't believe the older units have electric elements, as they are a relative recent addition... For a new unit owner I would recommend a tire pressure gauge be in your tool kit. Hopefully somewhere in your literature is the recommended pressure...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted July 17, 2017 Moderators Posted July 17, 2017 The unit in our hull #12 ran on either propane or electric, as did all the early Olivers I've seen. I don't know if you have the same water heater we had Brandi, but it's likely that you do, but some had Atwood, some suburban, I think. There's a switch on the outside of the unit to select gas or electric. This was accessed from the outside curbside door. In our old unit, there was also a switch on the face of the curbside dinette, along with a little red light that lit up when the unit first turned on, but did not remain illuminated. It was something I always checked, as I was concerned about accidentally turning on the heater by bumping it, which did happen to us a few times. There should be a bypass valve under the curbside dinette, so you can make sure the water supply is feeding into the heater. If the handle is turned in line with the pipe feeding the heater, it's open. Just a thought, before you fill the heater, you might want to check the sacrificial anode and make sure there's still some life in it. BTW,you are not pestering when you ask questions. We will all be happy to help when we can. I'm just working from memory, as we replaced our original water heater with an instantaneous unit. And, you're right in assuming that each of the earliest trailers were a little different as Oliver did some tweeks to the design and options. If you can't find manuals online with Google model/make, pm me . I can either scan and send, or send a link. We all love your little red trailer. Hope you can enjoy (all) of it too. Sherry 2 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good.
ScottyGS Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 Hey Brandi, I was digging through some pictures of when we picked up our trailer and look what I found. I thought you might like to see these. I remembered that we had seen your trailer when we went to the factory but forgot that I took some pictures of it. Hope you enjoy them. Good Luck on the road. Scotty 1 Gregg & Donna Scott and Missy the Westie - The Flying Sea Turtle - 2016 Hull # 145 2024 Nissan Titan XD - Western NC
Bshaffer Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 Thank you! Pictures are great Brandi Shaffer
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