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HELP! No power.


Toojennifer
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First trip ever and just setting up at campsite. Had power just fine at home. Nothing at campsite. Have all adapters and tester. Power coming from source but not at trailer. Any ideas?

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Dan and Jennifer Brumfield Bellingham, WA Twin beds - Legacy Elite II (Hull #188).


GMC Sierra 2500 Diesel


We can’t seem to come up with a name.

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Bad power at the outlet, your surge suppressor is blocking it. It normally takes about 20 seconds to read and analyse, then it “CLUNK” engages the relay if all is OK. Check the remote display under the rear street side compartment. Any “E” error messages can  be interpreted in the owner booklet. You could use the bypass switch, but this is a really bad choice unless you are 110% positively absolutely sure the power at the outlet is good. It’s purpose is realy to get power if the built-in  suppressor itself goes bad.

 

Try hooking up to another nearby outlet. If you must have 110v, ask for another site. (In the future, check for good power before settng up camp.)

 

Ask your camp host or a useful looking neighbor to help.

 

Use your batteries and stay calm for the evening, tomorrow is a better day to worry and you can call Olivertech support. Be calm and enjoy your Oliver. It works perfecty fine off grid, unless you have no inverter and must make popcorn for your evening Netfix session.... actually, that sounds pretty bad, but you can always ask a neighbor to pop it;)

 

What facility are you staying at? We need pictures, and please add some info to your profile.

 

Good luck.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Thanks all and Bruce for the call. Terrible wifi so barely able to pull up replies. Pretty sure it was surge protector and had to bypass. Feeding thru generator option. Have good power and think it is in progressive surge protector.

Dan and Jennifer Brumfield Bellingham, WA Twin beds - Legacy Elite II (Hull #188).


GMC Sierra 2500 Diesel


We can’t seem to come up with a name.

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Thanks all and Bruce for the call. Terrible wifi so barely able to pull up replies. Pretty sure it was surge protector and had to bypass. Feeding thru generator option. Have good power and think it is in progressive surge protector.

 

I am a little troubled that it was workng when you unplugged at home, but now it isn’t. That is an unusual failure mode.

 

John Davies

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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The easiest way to start figuring out what is wrong is to read the code on the Progressive's readout. No light on the display is probably a lost/open neutral. Error code of "E1" is a polarity problem while "E2" is an open ground.

I do not have the rest of the codes handy at he moment, but, those are the most likely ones.

Bill

 

 

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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The little yellow tester lets you test at the pedistal. If everything there is ok you know the problem is with your trailer. If it is not ok you know it imediately, and you don't have to in to read the meter. If it is ok, then check the plug at the trailer end. On the way by look at the microwave, if it is on you are ok. If not, check the GFI, it is the most common spot to trip. I have the portable Progressive to protect my trailer, but use the little yellow tester first. It has also helped protect the Progressive. I know a fulltimer that has had to have his replaced/repaired twice. He now checks his pedistal with the little yellow tester before plugging in...

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With the little yellow tester we also have a 30/15 amp adapter. In some pedestals (campground power pole) the 30 amp and 15/20 amp have separate breakers or feeds. One might work, but the other might not. The tester with adapter is a quick way to be sure. We keep it in the door of the tow vehicle so that it is quick and easily accessible, especially at set up. Many times, especially in some of the older campgrounds here in the east, we have been able to help our fellow campers with the little yellow tester.

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Hi again. I dont have all the technical jargon to fill you in but in a nutshell, Progressive(?) just said send it back. They werent a huge help otherwise. New campground though and we are okay but I think it is still bypassed maybe (husband napping or I would ask).

 

We do have the necessary yellow tester. I will try to update ghis in the end when we find out final problem, for what it is worth.

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Dan and Jennifer Brumfield Bellingham, WA Twin beds - Legacy Elite II (Hull #188).


GMC Sierra 2500 Diesel


We can’t seem to come up with a name.

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If the Progressive Industries EMS did not allow power to flow, I would be very reluctant to bypass it. It did exactly what it was supposed to do. Also, just because it’s a new campground doesn’t necessarily mean it’s wired correctly.

Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

             801469912_StatesVisitedTaliandSteve08-23-2021-I.jpg.26814499292ab76ee55b889b69ad3ef0.jpg1226003278_StatesVisitedTaliandSteve08-23-2021-H.jpg.dc46129cb4967a7fd2531b16699e9e45.jpg

 

 

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