Split: Black valve hard to move

[TexasMarshall]

Got another question. My black water valve is hard to open. That long cable from the rear of the trailer to valve is the problem. When I disconnect the cable from the valve, it opens & closes easily. Y’all got some suggestions on making it easier.

[topgun2]

TM -

 

I assume that when you disconnect the cable from the valve that you mean the valve is easy to open and close.  If that is the case then there is either a restriction of some sort in the cable or that it needs to be lubed.  Can you move the cable easily when it is disconnected?  If yes then it is probably not kinked.  You could try to lube the cable.  Many motorcycle shops sell a cable lube device that allows you to spray lube into the cable without getting it all over everything else around it - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=7vePz&pf_rd_r=YB2HKWM8F2WKRMZM2N71&pd_rd_i=B0012TYX9W&pd_rd_w=H9li1&pd_rd_r=7c2de4b4-5464-4daf-bd26-11cccac0e5d6&ie=UTF8&qid=1548855765&sr=1

 

Even if your valve operates smoothly when the cable is disconnected you might want to try this -

 

https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-Drain-Valve-Lubricant-15843/dp/B000BGK2L0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1548855846&sr=1-1&keywords=rv+valve+lubricant

 

Hope it helps!  And now - back to protecting the front of the Oliver?

 

Bill

 

EDIT:  (Since Bill's sage advice was not taken, this departure from the OP's subject has been split off into it's own topic . . .  Bugeyedriver)

[TexasMarshall]

Thanks! The valve does move easily when the cable is disconnected. If there is a problem with the cable, it’s been there since the trailer left the plant. I noticed how hard it was to open the very first time I dumped! A quality control boo boo on Oliver’s part.

[TexasMarshall]

I’ve used the Thetford drain valve lubricant & keep some in the trailer. Doesn’t seem to help.

[TexasMarshall]

I’m gonna try the motor cycle cable lube device. If that doesn’t work, I wonder how hard it is to change the cable?

[KenB]

With a bunch of motorcycles in my garage (currently down to seven) and a couple of bicycles, I have some experience maintaining control cables and using the cable lubricating device you mention. Tri-flow aerosol is usually the preferred lubricant. WD40 should be avoided as it eventually dries into a hard varnish. If the inner cable is kinked or the outer is smashed, a replacement will be necessary. The cable lube device is dependent on the outer cable sheath being intact the whole length. A nick in the sheath allows the lubricant to take the path of least resistance and the whole cable doesn’t get lubed.  Make sure lubricant comes out the far end.  Start at the highest end. It makes a mess. Have some rags ready. HTH. Ken.

[TexasMarshall]

The trailer is 10 months old. The cable is practically new. In the 10 months I’ve owned the trailer I’ve probably dumped 15 times at the most. If the cable is kinked or nicked, it was done the build at the Oliver plant. I’m gonna try lubing the cable first. I’ve talked to Ritchie, Service tech at Oliver & they will send a new cable if the lube doesn’t work. I think we got it covered. Ritchie says the black water valve is stiffer than the gray water valve due to the cable being a lot longer on the black water valve. We will see.

[ScubaRx]

It’s doubtful that there’s any kinks in your cable. It there were, I don’t think you could have ever moved it. It only need lubricating. Disconnect the valve, pull the cable completely from the sheath, lube as it goes back in. You will never be able to properly lubricate the entire length without removing it and it’s  a four handed effort. I’ve done it several times over the past ten years of ownership. It will be better than new. This is not an Oliver quality control issue. I doubt they are lubed very well when shipped.

[Maverick]

I’ve done it several times over the past ten years of ownership. It will be better than new.

 

Steve:

 

What lubricant did you us on the cable?

[ScubaRx]

Steve:

 

What lubricant did you us on the cable?

 

 

I used plain WD-40 years ago. Recently, I’ve used spray silicone (WD-40 branded) but I plan to use this soon.

 

Just take a rag and spray it liberally. Hold it around the cable as you insert it into the housing. Keep the rag wet with the lubricant as you push it back in. You’ll need help at the end to get it lined up and inserted back into the valve slide. Make sure the cable is pushed up snug and the valve is completely seated. Tighten the set screw and you’re done.

[ScubaRx]

I plan to do our valves while we’re at Quartzsite. I will be happy to assist anyone here that wants theirs done.

[TexasMarshall]

Thanks, followed your recommendation & it worked! Now that black water valve opens & closes very easily. Bought 1 can of the WD 40 silicone lube, pulled the wire out,  sprayed as much as I could get in the sheath & then coated the wire as I put back in. Pulled it out again & put back in again while coating it with the silicone lube. Worked like a champ.

[GarryandKristi]

Part of the issue with the black tank valve is the geometry of the cable as it enters the gate. The valve manufacturer, Valterra, shows on their schematic a minimum of a 6in. straight approach to the frame. Ours (and I suspect all) does not have that. I sprayed silicone lube into the gate (don’t know how much actually got the the gate mating surfaces) and manually worked the gate up and down with the exposed cable at the gate and that seemed to do the trick. Previously the gate did not fully seat - about 1/4 inch shy. I think as others have pointed out, the lubricating the entire cable length is the way to go. There is a lot of skin friction on that length of cable especially with all the loop d loops it does.