Generator for Air conditioning

[MarkC]

Looking at the Domestic Penguin II specs. it says Cooling capacity (ISO 5151) 3953W, Power Consumption-Cooling mode (ISO 5151) 1731W.   I'm guessing here...looks like I need a generator that puts out either 3953w of power or maybe only 1731w of power.  If I were to get a Honda EU2200i that produces 2200 watts I would need to purchase two units if I the AC needs 3953 watts.  But only one if the 1731w is the actual draw off the AC unit. I don't understand which number to use. Can anyone tell me the watt requirement of the AC unit.  I like the Honda generator that weighs 47 lbs. which is right at my max. lift capability these days.  If I had to get two generators...47lbs. lifted twice could work, but 100 plus once wouldn't. I live on the Oregon Coast and over 65 degrees is hot for us.  (61 right now). So, I will be running the AC a lot when I head south.  Actually, anywhere East of here during the summer.

[STEVEnBETTY]

Mark c, to answer you question about powering your the penguin 11 with a generator, Oliver offers the “easy start” capacitor option that I installed myself, that  I run with my single 2,000 watt Honda generator. It works very well, but you have to monitor your ac current power usage because it’s right at the 2,000’s limit, ie: ac only, no microwave, hair dryer, etc, but lights, tv, water pump and other dc draws are ok.

 

Steve

[Overland]

Like Steve said, you need the Easy Start to run the A/C with the 2200i.  Otherwise, you can move up one size to the 3000.  I think the Easy Start is a worthwhile investment, and a fairly easy retrofit if your trailer doesn't have one from the factory.

[Geronimo John]

I also use the Honda EU2200i. Easily runs the A/C as above.  In addition to the above power management issues (Hair Dryer, Microwave, etc.) you'll also need to be be aware of the load you charger can pull if your batteries are low on charge.  This impacts us rarely, but is something you can manage around.

 

The two loads are for the A /C load (lower one) and the internal heat strips for the heat that can be used in the A/C unit to heat Ollie.  Personally, I prefer to use a small 1500 watt electric heater vs. the larger heat strips in the A/C unit.

 

Unless you must have the 3000 for special medical or must run a/c all the time, the Honda EU2200 is the unit of choice for the vast majority of Ollie II owners.

[WhatDa]

I've been looking for a Generator for backup power or boon docking days.  There are alternatives to Honda, but Honda is recognized as the best player with Yamaha #2.

 

As the other Steve and Señor Overland said, the 2200i is enough for the AC from everything I have read (still ollie shopping).  Also note that the 2200i can parallel with the "companion" giving you double the power if you want it -- so there is room for expansion if you do not find it meets your needs.

 

On 2200i vs 3000iS:

Weight 47lbs vs 131lbs - two 2200i weigh less than one 3000iS

Noise: 3000iS was quieter at any given load

Runtime: 3000iS has double the runtime at about a 40-50% greater burn rate (it has a ~3x bigger fuel tank)

Start: 3000is has electric - but if you can lift 131lbs, you can probably hand start either of these - they start super easy

 

My conclusion: if I could have the 3000iS permanently mounted someplace, it might make the better option for when I am not around.  I don't think I want 131lbs on the tongue and not sure I want it right outside the bedroom window, so probably looking at a 2200iS.  Further, I am looking at charger/inverters that can pull from the battery at peak demand, and then recharge the batteries when the AC cycles off.

[hobo]

Here's another option that I think I'm going to go to:  The Harbor Freight 3500 Predator Inverter generator is running head-to-head with the Hondas and at about 1/3 the cost.  I have been looking at review after review of this generator with folks running them HARD and they are holding up very well.  They are just as quiet as the Honda.  The Predator 3500 can also be run parallel with another 3500 which is something the Honda EU3000i cannot.  I can run everything in my trailer full blast without a blip.  If I get another unit, I can have 7K watts for my home backup power supply.  The cost of the Predator is running right at  $700.  The Predator also has a larger tank and therefore longer run time than the Honda.

 

Down side (sort of ) is the Honda has a 3 year warranty and the Predator has only a 90 day warranty.  However, you can purchase an extended, 2 year warranty for $150 which is bumber-to-bumper.  Even with this cost, you're miles ahead of the price of the Honda. Toward the end of the two years, if there are ANY issues, just return it and get another one.  You would have to pay for another extended warranty on the replacement if you wanted it.

 

Weight doesn't matter to me since it will live in the back of my TV.

 

I was dead set on purchasing a Honda but I think I am going to the "dark side" and purchasing the Predator from Harbor Freight.

 

I'll report back when I get it and if and when I have any issues.

[SissyBoyFloyd]

Has anyone used one of these for RVing:

<h1>Goal Zero Yeti 1000 Lithium Portable Power Station</h1>

[OnOurWay2FUN]

I'm looking for a way to run the A/C on batteries while boondocking.  While generators are a good, lower cost solution, my preference is to use batteries. 

I have a Dometic Penguin II 13,500 BTU with an Micro-Air Easy Start. I plan to size the battery(ies) to provide 10 minutes of cooling each hour for 6 hours at night. The A/C requires:
1728 watts = 14.4 amps x 120v (Micro-Air says 1600 watts https://www.microair.net/pages/dometic-faqs) 
1728 watts / 12v = 144 amps, 80% depth of discharge = 180Ah. So 200Ah LiFePO4 battery.

To ensure that the external battery only powers the A/C, and doesn't charge the AGM trailer batteries or power anything else, I would flip off the breakers in the Power Control Center for the Charger, Refrigerator and Microwave/outlets. Leaving on only the Main and A/C breakers. 

Any safety, performance or other concerns with this? Are there any show stoppers for doing it? The battery would be recharged separately from the trailer. 

 

[Overland]

You could do it, but I don't think it would work quite the way you're thinking, since the 120 side and the breakers aren't really the issue.  What you'd need to do is disconnect the AGM battery bank so that you don't have both the AGMs and the LFP simultaneously connected on the 12 volt side - otherwise, one will try to charge the other.  A simple disconnect switch would do the trick.  Once you've disconnected the AGMs, then connect the LFP and that's it.  

How are you planning to time the AC?