Oliver bike rack receiver modification

[Trainman]

Just wondering if anyone has ever removed the 1 1/4" sleeve from the 2" ID tube on the Oliver bike rack. I assume it's pressed in, but not sure, maybe glued, the pin hole would also keep it in place when in use. I would like to make it a 2" receiver, by doing this it would shorten the distance from the trailer to the cargo carrier some 10-12". I realize I can purchase a 11" by 2" receiver from e-trailer and just use the existing U-clamps and be done with it. Using the aluminum one on the Oliver hitch would also leave me with a 2" receiver tube with 1/4" side walls which could be too thin for this type of use. A new rack is around 30lbs. and I would carry no more them 100lbs. of cargo. I always say, John what do you think as you have done several project back there.

 

trainman

[John E Davies]

Post a couple of closeup pictures. I have never even seen the newest factory rack, and the only pics I have seen were ten footers... meaning no fine detail whatsoever. I would be very surprised if the sleeve is simply pressed in, it either has been welded and ground down for appearance, or possibly bonded. But I suspect the former.

 

Bolting on a steel receiver to the aluminum crossbar would be possible but it is always a little worrisome in terms of corrosion and expansion. You must add an extra layer between the two materials to electrically isolate them as much as possible - paint is not usually good enough -  and that makes it more likely the parts will move around too much. Also the different expansion rates might cause your fasteners to loosen. Post some pics and let’s see what it looks like.

 

You could contact the Mother Ship and see what they say. Obviously they want to keep the weight and leverage low, which is why they put the smaller parts there. I suspect that they will say “Don’t mess with it, you will poke your eye out!” But it never hurts to ask.

 

You could have a good welding shop make you a two inch aluminum receiver with a heavy outside sleeve. That might be the simplest approach. Just make a bigger version of the Oliver one....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Trainman]

John, It's probably too much work needed to get the pieces apart, when all I need to do is purchase a short 2" receiver and put a piece of thin hard rubber between the two. I did take a pic of what it looks like, upon inspection they used 3 tubes to make the 1 1/4" receiver, I guess there shop needs something to do at times. Here is how it looks, I see no welds used, but it's a very tight fit for sure. One last note, we will be at Oliver on the 7th of October to get the water heater working again on LP gas, it's not really out of our way as we will be camping in Tennessee that week, so I can pick Jason's mind with several questions on things that are not so much common knowledge, I'm making a list.

 

trainman

[ThomB87]

Let me know what you find out. Just pick ours up. My intent is to do the same. i ordered the receiver from OLiver an will need to modify it to fit my existing bike rack. My thought was the same remove the sleeve and replace it with using a rubber insulator with a steel one. Cannot find any aluminum ones. I have plenty of old bike inner tubes. When I asked why not a 2 inch I got a song and dance discouraging people from too much weight. Seems to be an attempt to idiot proof. Looking at it I do not see any welds. Looks like it is just held on by the U bolts.

Bill Thomas

2017 Tundra SRf5 4x4

Hull 534

 

[Trainman]

Looks like a easy fix which ever way you go, the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter, or the 2" x 10" receiver tube. The receiver tube looks like the better way to me as it lessens the distance the bike rack will stick out behind the trailer, plus it would have less movement with fewer connections.

 

trainman

[FlyBoy]

I'm in the same boat, I have the new 1.25" style bike rack option from Oliver but want to convert it to 2" because all the other hitches on our vehicles are 2" and we already own an expensive 2" rack. I do not want to use a converter because of the wobble and increased load due to the longer arm (moment of force). I was told by Oliver when we picked up the trailer the reason they did not use a 2" receiver is because they don't want anyone trying to tow with it (most folks with hitch racks have 2" racks and we promise not to be stupid). I considered asking the factory to fabricate a 2" receiver for me (not sure if they will). I also considered buying a 2" receiver tube and bolting it on as has been described here. That lead me to etrailer.com and discovered they sell a number of 2" receivers for RV 4x4 bumpers. My Ollie is in storage so I can't easily check the dimensions of the cross bar the 1.25 receiver is bolted to. I'm hoping it's 4x4, does anyone know offhand? Any other thoughts or suggestions? 

Edited January 10, 2020 by FlyBoy

[Trainman]

As of today I have not tried to remove the center piece of the Oliver hitch, this is mainly because we are not using the hitch and transporting our new ebikes in the bed of the pickup, a much more secure place for them to be carried. I have thought of purchasing a cargo rack to use in place of the bicycle rack, they to would require a 2.0" receiver for most of the ones that I have looked at. But now once again I really have no need for that rack, so now I sometime wonder why I purchased the Oliver bicycle in the first place. I may just take it off the trailer and store it in the shop and if some day a use comes up for it I can put it back on the trailer. I would like to know it anyone does take the insert out how you did it, looks like it needs to be pressed out to me. My wife suggested I make a clothes rack to fit the 1 1/4" receiver to dry items when camping, now I will have a $800 invested in a clothes rack, makes sense to me. I do know that with that rack off it's much easier to get the sewer hose and other items out of there storage area.  

trainman 

[John E Davies]

I suspect that the insert is a shrink fit. If it doesn’t have some sort of epoxy bonding agent, you could cut two or more slots inside to relieve the pressure,  using, a hacksaw and try pounding on it. Or take it to a machine shop and say, “Here!”....

The best solution might be to take all the parts to the rally and sell them.

Good luck.

John Davies

[BackofBeyond]

Were it me, I'd unbolt the thing - and bolt up a new 2" receiver tube. I have the old style -  much better design, with a lot more adaptability, and stronger overall. 

On 10/2/2019 at 12:08 PM, Trainman said:

Looks like a easy fix which ever way you go, the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter, or the 2" x 10" receiver tube. The receiver tube looks like the better way to me as it lessens the distance the bike rack will stick out behind the trailer, plus it would have less movement with fewer connections.

 

trainman

. But as Trainman said. 

[Ray and Susan Huff]

Haven't purchased an Oliver yet . . . . checking all the angles.  We have a 1upUSA bike rack with a 2" hitch.  Wondering if mounting the rack between the pickup and the trailer using a dual hitch receiver adapter would be an option.  E-trailer example  https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapters/Malone/MPG544.html

Edit: after some research, I find the dual hitch receiver adapter can't be used for towing a trailer - only flat towing with a tow bar.  I will be watching this thread, hoping someone comes up with a modification for using a 2" rack.

Edited June 5, 2020 by Susan Huff
Additional info

[djpinaz]

I've looked at those and the concern is the weight limits (see below) which would exceed the Oliver Elite II for sure. Don't know off-hand if it would also exceed the Elite I.

• Maximum tongue weight: 400 lbs
• Maximum trailer weight: 4,000 lbs

[John E Davies]

Even more important: “Note: Using this adapter will reduce the tongue weight capacity of your hitch by 50-percent.“ It is not an appropriate solution, even for a small Elite. Your 1-Up trays could be removed and mounted in back of the Ollie, depending on how heavy and how many bikes you have., plus it would require a custom mount.

John Davies

Spokane WA