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When the Oliver was winterized the anode was removed and laid in the water heater. Today we un-winterized the Oliver and screwed the anode in and it leaked. We pulled it and taped the threads and it leaked again.  The housing that hold the anode is very rusty.  Tried to clean it out, but still leaked.  Can this be replaced without replacing the entire water heater?  Also the On/Off switch in the water heater is frozen in the On position (that is why the fuze was pulled when the hot water was drained.)  What should I do?  Thanks again everyone.   2017  Hull 267

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I can’t speak to the anode leaking, I’ve never left the anode out.  I did have the on/off switch “freeze”.  At first it was just difficult to move then it refused to go off.  I ordered a new one and replaced the uncooperative switch and no problems now.  Mike

Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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Thanks Mike.  This is the way the camper came from the previous owner.  I am really beginning to wish I had bought a new Oliver.  

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Posted (edited)

Nan, I’d get a new anode.  They aren’t expensive and neither is the on/off switch.  Both are on Amazon.  Then, I’d get a wire brush (toothbrush size) and put some solvent on it, WD40 would work, and run it around the threads where the anode goes.  I’d be careful not to get any WD40 in the tank.  Wipe it down and put on new teflon thread tape then seat the new anode and see if that works.  Is the pressure relieve valve closed?

Buying used is usually a good experience.  Sounds like the previous owners left you some issues to deal with.  I’m disappointed and sorry about that.   Mike

Edited by Mike and Carol
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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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Thanks Mike.  I have a new anode and a toothbrush wire brush.  All I need is WD 40.  I honestly don't think the previous owner had a clue about these problems.  She had a new heater and air conditioner installed trying to rid the Oliver of all of the fiberglass that was left in the ducts.  It is obvious she never turned on the heater (because it would not have come on) and she had no clue to not leave the anode out of the water heater.  She had only pulled the Oliver about 1600 miles when she sold it to me.  So, I am certainly not faulting her.  This is all a learning curve for me and it has been a little confusing because I don't have an Oliver tech walking me through it.  But, thanks to people on this forum, I am getting closer to being able to go on the road.

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Nan don’t get discouraged with your used Oliver. New off the line Oliver’s can have many issues, that need to be addressed. Unfortunately this is normal for the rv industry.  Just like you home its constant maintenance. I actually learned a lot about my Oliver through repairs. I’m now more comfortable with the Oliver knowing how things work. It’s not fun making constant repairs. Let’s hope this will be the last for awhile. Good luck 

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You really need to clean out the rusty crud in the threads, a wire brush is probably not enough. You can buy a 3/4” NPT (National Pipe Thread TAPERED) tap and carefully run it in and out of the hole. Be careful not to go in too far, when it starts to get a lot harder to turn, you will be cutting away new metal, and that should be avoided. 

https://smile.amazon.com/CMT-NPT-PIPE-TAP-88-0034/dp/B00I3P4R3K/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=3%2F4”+npt+tap&qid=1585244469&s=hi&sr=1-12

Video how to chase threads

Or if you have some tools, you can pick up a $2 steel pipe plug with no protruding hex head, and make your own thread chaser. I found an old plug in my junk box, put it in the vise, and uses a hacksaw to cut angled grooves. The grooves are needed so the rust and crud will have somewhere to go as you turn it into the hole. I use water from a squirt bottle as a lubricant. This is actually much easier to use than an actual tap, since you can just stick a 1/2” drive extension into it.

475CB9E3-7A40-43CF-9A69-AFF558CCD0BF.thumb.jpeg.5e29075293216822f5761eb9b1fad44d.jpeg

 

Flush out any debris with your rinsing wand and dry the area before installing the replacement anode rod with a couple of wraps of thick plumbers teflon tape. It will not leak. Try not to leave any loose crud in the tank or it will gradually travel to your water pump screen. Clean and lube your tool before you put it away or it will rust.... LOL. Mine already looked like that.

Good luck.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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