GatorDave Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 I have seen only one in person and was overly impressed. Seems to be the ideal camper to travel over rougher mountain forest service roads to the ideal Boondocking site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted August 7, 2020 Moderators Share Posted August 7, 2020 (edited) Welcome to the forum, Gatordave. Many of us indeed do believe this is a great boondocking trailer. 12 years of boondocking in ours has confirmed our initial opinion. Lots of folks here to answer any questions you may have. Sherry Edited August 7, 2020 by SeaDawg Typos 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 (edited) Welcome to the forum. An Ollie is a tough little tank; however there is nothing at all special about the suspension other than the greasable EZ Flex shackles. It has extremely limited travel, so towing over potholes or washboard requires a walking speed. Smooth gravel is no worries, it tracks extremely well even at unsafe speeds over 40 mph. It's those bumps and deep holes that cause the trauma. My trailer has 1.5" of up travel before the axle ubolt smacks the steel subframe (there are no rubber bumps stops). Tell Sales you want them to offer a more offroad worthy suspension option, one with decent travel (4 or more inches). There are many great options in the aftermarket, but I haven't heard of anyone doing this mod yet. It is a bit terrifying for an owner to be doing the R & D on such a major component. If you truly plan on doing lots of forest roads you should probably be looking at other brands, like a single axle Black Series trailer, or a compact truck camper. The secondary forest roads I sometimes travel in the PNW, withOUT the trailer, tend to be tight and twisty with no pullouts, and are often brushy. Not a situation for a camper you want to keep looking nice. The main access roads in the valleys are maintained and plenty wide, but sometimes lots rougher due to high traffic. An Ollie will go most places that it will fit and that the rear frame will clear, but sometimes it is a sloooooooow process. John Davies Spokane WA Edited August 7, 2020 by John E Davies SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jairon Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, John E Davies said: My trailer has 1.5" of up travel before the axle ubolt smacks the steel subframe (there are no rubber bumps stops). Would a different shock alleviate some of that travel or would the entire axle need to be upgraded? We're interested in pushing ours a bit so I'm curious about what options might exist. Edited August 7, 2020 by Jairon 2019 Toyota Land Cruiser 2021 Oliver Elite II, Hull #748 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackofBeyond Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 Speed, just slow down, and you will be fine in a good many places. I've taken mine down some rough spots, go slow and the travel is not a big issue, unless its really large elevation changes in the road surface. Then its about clearance - The axle is fine. RB 1 Cindy, Russell and "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax "Die young - As late as possible" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 Slowing way down works OK but it is a bandaid method for dealing with a crappy suspension. If you want to drive a few miles of potholes from a good road to a NfS campground, that is doable, certainly. If you need to drive 75 to 100 miles of rough ranch roads, that is just not feasible at 5-10 mph. Have you ever hit a deep pothole at 60 mph on a paved road? Sometimes you just can’t avoid it due to traffic. When the axles smash into the frame with a huge bang, you will think the frame broke in half. It is simply unsafe and it scares the bejesus out of the occupants of the TV. Leaf springs are crude at best, as are drum brakes. There are way better options. John Davies Spokane WA SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jairon said: Would a different shock alleviate some of that travel or would the entire axle need to be upgraded? We're interested in pushing ours a bit so I'm curious about what options might exist. The shocks are not the issue. Here are a few threads to read. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/1674-spring-over-axle-lift/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4105-turn-your-oliver-into-an-aussie-beater-anyone/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4265-timbren-independent-rubber-suspension/ If I were to do this, it would be with the last method. But I really don’t want to be the first to do it.... 😳 John Davies Spokane WA Edited August 8, 2020 by John E Davies 1 SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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