Jump to content

Timbren Independent Rubber Suspension


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

1CE95009-D79C-446C-A94B-1C3E82D4491E.jpeg.9322a9021afc0303fd5f3cb603de8bac.jpeg

Here is a really interesting discussion of this rugged kit. I wonder how well it could be adapted to an OL2? Because the frame already has a stout steel subframe it should be an ideal platform.... the 3500 pound units use 6000 pound rated spindles and bearings. Woohoo!

https://www.off-road.com/blog/timbren-axle-less-trailer-suspension-review/

These sell for $760
per axle at eTrailer.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Timbren/ASR35HDS02.html

I would go whole hog and add disk brakes at the same time. OTH I would be very reluctant to be the first to do this, from cost and liability reasons. I wonder if the factory would consider building a test mule for high speed highway stability testing and off- pavement testing....?

Any idea how hard it would be to completely remove the subframe, do this mod and then reinstall it? It doesn’t appear to be difficult, if it is not bonded too ferociously to the aluminum.

I think this would turn an Ollie into a stellar gravel/ washboard trailer. Because the stock springs are incredibly lame for this use. Discuss please.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies
  • Like 1

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

Looks like you’d have to take the subframe off to mount those, which I’m pretty sure means that you have to lift the tub off the frame.  Possible, but Oliver would have to do it, which means it’s impossible.  They’d never go for it.  I think you’d want to beef up the subframe, too, while you’re at it - I don’t think I’d feel comfortable that the existing cross braces are strong enough to take the twisting forces that these would add.  

I still think the Lippert Centerpoint is the easiest upgrade.

Edited by Overland

Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I guess I need to go out and lie down on a piece of cardboard and look closer. Why does the hull have to come off?That seems like a really awkward design feature.... You wouldn't necessarily have to remove it, though fabrication would be a whole lot easier with it upside down on supports. You would have to grind off the spring hangers and  maybe the shock mounts. 

It is super easy to reinforce the Timbren units - you just add a length of 2x3” steel tubing between the existing sockets. It fits up high, giving about 5 more inches of clearance than a straight axle.

2776466A-B54B-41EB-B5AA-949AB0E53A1A.jpeg.8ed00d25a6df9c9d988d0f4bfc9cb7db.jpeg

The Lippert system will not do a thing to correct the severe lack of vertical travel of each wheel. On my trailer there is just 1.5” of up travel before the ubolts contact the subframe. The Timbrens have about 3” up and (the article says) a total of 4”. Not great by offroad standards, but way better than the Dexter springs. And it is progressively dampened, so no more banging and crunching....

I like simple, low maintenance designs. The Timbren meets that criterion. A tandem installation has just four grease fitting, for the pivot bushings. The Dexter EZ Flex is really complex with its 20 zerks and four leak prone shock absorbers. it is a messy PITA.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

 You’re right. For some reason I was thinking that the bolts on mine faced outward, meaning you’d have to pull the hull to get them out of the hole. But I just checked and they face in. 
 

The Centerpoint does add 1” to the travel. 

Edited by Overland
  • Thanks 1

Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Overland said:

 The Centerpoint does add 1” to the travel. 

Does it actually provide a lift? Because that is the only way you would gain any extra upward travel on an Ollie

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

That’s what they say.  eTrailer says it’s actually 2”. 

Edited by Overland

Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

I would be willing to install this just to eliminate all the grease zerks.

 

  • Like 3

Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

      ALAKAZARCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMA       ABBCMBNSYTsm.jpg

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I just looked closer at “Mouse”, and the subframe mounting bolt heads are facing out, so they are blocked by the fiberglass. I sure wouldn’t pull off the hull, tho, I would just drill access holes in that lower fiberglass lip. But in reality, I think having the trailer up high on a hoist in a proper shop would provide very easy access, to cut off the shackle and shock mounts, and to trim some of the cross angle-iron braces. Counting the removal time for the straight axles, I bet the entire conversion could all be done by a pro with a plasma cutter in half a day. It could all be done by the owner with a saber saw and angle grinder while lying on the ground, but that is a job I probably would not enjoy, not even a little bit. 😳

Oliver could  easily do this at the factory as a pre-build option. They would just need to have a few extra subframes lying around, ones with galvanized finish but without the brackets and hangers.  Installation labor on the production line would be minimal. Considering that they buy the parts at wholesale and the buyer would get a credit for not installing the EZ Flex axles, springs and four shocks, I think a $2000 price tag for a factory Timbren option (with Dexter electric brakes) would be very reasonable.

Would you pay $2000 for this setup? I definitely would.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited by John E Davies

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

That’s interesting. I thought I remembered seeing a photo of an Oliver with the bolts facing the other way, which is why I was surprised to see that mine weren’t. I guess Oliver just wasn’t  consistent with how they were installed. 
I wonder if it would be possible to get a grinder between the hull and frame to cut off the bolt heads then pull them through. 

  • Thanks 1

Snowball • 256 • 2018 Ford Raptor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...