Failed Andersen tension chain coupler - ideas?

[Teaney]

Great info as always. I’m getting 2 of the 3/8 grade 70 Double Clovis Repair Links

 

[Geronimo John]

There are more than a few thoughts expressed in this thread to cause me to pause:

Mike and Carrol;  I see you are towing with a  "2020 Ram 2500 6.7L".  Why are you even using an Anderson?  

Long Stride:  For emergency safety chains, one of these is a great idea vs. a quick link.

 

Along the same lines as John D's post above, damage can certainly occur when the chains are over tightened and were installed tight as well.  Hence there is some that would see a benefit of having a sacrificial link in this system. For the same reason that my boat prop's don't have super high strength shear pins. 

Stranded:  Now I'm going the opposite way from my shear pin analogy.  Your statement "I bought a similar sized stainless steel coupler at Home Depot" is another pause moment for me.  SS is inherently less strong than the steel ones Anderson uses.  Suggest rethinking your purchase.

 

My main intent here is that the Anderson/Oliver links properly installed and ADJUSTED (By the big nuts at the rear" should be protected by using the suggested rated quick link.  Not a massive one or a weaker one.  I believe this as even though our OTT frames are likely the strongest in the industry, they are aluminum. That is unique, and in my opinion likely is why a link of 2650 pounds working load was specified for our trailers.

If you have maintained the quick links (I.E. they are tight), and you have damaged one, then contributing causes are most likely:

• They were set up with the chains too tight to begin with.  Not likely if done by OTT.
• You were using too many threads (You over tightened the chain nuts at the rear).
• You were trying to go travel across a grade change beyond the system's design, or were traveling too fast when doing so as John D. also suggested. 

As mentioned in my above post, beyond occasional link tightness check, I occasionally do a chain tension check by standing on one of them.   If it does not move, then guess what?  Also if I am approaching a significant grade change, like crossing a deep ditch, I consider the stress it will put to the Anderson system and items attached to it.  For severe crossings, I'll loosen the nuts.

GJ

 

Edited December 2 by Geronimo John

[John Dorrer]

On 3/21/2021 at 11:32 PM, JRK said:

I did not adjust the Andersen after pickup on Wednesday, as I was directed. I was told that I would not need to adjust the tension chains.

I noticed this failure of the coupler. I do not think that that the connector was properly screwed into the female portion. The threads do not appear to be stripped.

Question-how do I adjust the Andersen? The instructions indicate that I am to loosen/tighten when remove/replace, sort of. I was not shown that at delivery. I was not shown how the Andersen would lower the front end, if need, by distributing the weight, as in the instruction manual.

I find no information in the instruction manual about the coupling link. I went to Tractor Supply someplace in Oklahoma, maybe New Mexico - Tumcumcari, I think, and bought a similar coupler to replace the failed one. Does anyone know what grade steel it should be? I assume that this is the reason it is there-to fail if the strain is too excessive, but again, no info found in the manual. Maybe I am not looking in the right place.

Towing an E1 with a Toyota Tacoma. Have had no issues in the about 1,500 miles, until now.

Didn't realize this was a 3 year old post, so I removed my comment

 

Edited December 2 by John Dorrer

[Mike and Carol]

2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

There are more than a few thoughts expressed in this thread to cause me to pause:

Mike and Carrol;  I see you are towing with a  "2020 Ram 2500 6.7L".  Why are you even using an Anderson?  

I’m not.  I sold the Andersen Hitch 4 years ago when I got the 2500.  I used the Andersen for almost 5 years with the half tons.  Mike

[Geronimo John]

5 hours ago, John Dorrer said:

Didn't realize this was a 3 year old post, so I removed my comment

True, but it's an Oldie but Goodie topic.  Think about how many new owners we have had in the past three years.  And of those, how many have not had the opportunity to understand the topic the hard way... on the side of the road.  Or understanding the damage they can do by not being aware of the limitations of the Anderson or any other WDH system.

So I applaud ScubaRx and others for sharing the expertise.  Even with a minor "hijacking" or two on the topic line, it is a good read... especially for our newer owners.

[jd1923]

7 hours ago, John Dorrer said:

Didn't realize this was a 3 year old post, so I removed my comment

Truly GJ has the unique way of finding the oldies-n-goodies!?! 🤣

[Geronimo John]

JD:
Thanks for the compliment.... I think???  LOL

Seriously though, would it not be pretty cool to cherry pick our what must be about ten million OTT forum posts (more or less) and gather them up as a tutorial for new and potential owners?  Could be a Oliver University crash course based upon all the mistakes us ROF's have already done. 

About 27% of the time I like not making an OOPs myself.   Prefer that others do it first and I can read about it.  But at times I just like to make the mistake myself.  

[Wayfinder]

Lots of opinions.  I'm an extra-simple man.   Carry extras at all times!  I have 2 to 4 extra connectors just for the Andersen links.  Two of the four are heavier duty.  But, since I've been carrying all that extra stuff for three years, have I had an issue?  Nope!  Go figure.  But I inspect ALL connection points every time I get out for a break.  I have 13-points of interest to put my hands on, just for the hitch area.

Andersen, Oliver, and any traitor maintenance company is simply going to out-source that part, and hope they're buying a high-end product.  Damned if we can tell which Chinese part is good at the big-box-stores here in America.  All we can do is bight it, lick it, and try to bend it with our barehands.  "Yup, looks good."  Many don't even have a strength indicator on them.  Very annoying.

 

Edited December 8 by Wayfinder

[Geronimo John]

21 hours ago, Wayfinder said:

 I have 13-points of interest to put my hands on, just for the hitch area.

Wayfinder:  Very excellent post.   I have a similar check list.  One change I'll likely make is to convert my Bulldog hitch pin to a round one such as yours.  My rectangular one is too tight and I fight it every time getting the umbilical cord through it in the same fashion as yours.

Couple of additional tips:

• Tie the Anderson and Bulldog safety pins to the trailer.  Prevents their loss. 
• Use a 1/8" diameter Bunge Cord the emergency breakaway safety cable and DC to DC Charging Cable to the Bulldog.  I am suggesting a small diameter so that it too can break away if something goes awry.

GJ

[Geronimo John]

On 12/8/2024 at 12:47 PM, Wayfinder said:

I have 2 to 4 extra connectors just for the Andersen links.

What size and rated threaded couplings do you carry?    Stainless Steel or Steel?

thanks

GJ

Edited Thursday at 03:19 AM by Geronimo John