Andersen W.D. hitch receiver change from 2" to 2 1/2"

[Tonyjas]

We just purchased an F-250 after towing our 2018 Elite 2 for 3 years with an F-150. After contacting the Andersen service folks they recommend purchasing a new 2 1/2" 

receiver/shank instead of a 2 1/2" sleeve. What have other owners done if you still plan on using the W.D. with with a 3/4 ton truck?

[John E Davies]

 

Welcome to the forums!

Get the larger "rack" (stinger), if you install a sleeve it will provide more room for rattles and clunks. Its is always best to keep the number of parts to a minimum.

But I have to ask, why are you even bothering with the Andersen? It is NOT needed with a HD pickup. Try towing with a simple dead weight ball and drop mount, rated for 7000 pounds or more. It will most likely be perfectly fine. Sell your Andersen on Craigslist.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[Townesw]

If you are determined to use the Anderson you can use a sleeve (it’s there, you can’t see it) on the shank and a Hitch Vise to eliminate the rattle. I used this set up (without the chains and plate) on my 3/4 ton until I had a custom ball mount made.

I still use the Hitch Vise with my 2.5 inch ball mount. It’s machined from a solid piece of 1018 CR steel square stock. The setback on it is 1 inch shorter than the Anderson mount, and I may reduce it more. It has a 5/8 inch drop as shown and a 7/8 inch drop if flipped. With truck and trailer loaded the trailer rides slightly nose down.
 

[topgun2]

Mossemi put me on to the Hitch Vise a couple of years ago.  I did double nut the two bolts that hold it on the receiver just to make sure that it didn't come loose.  It is a great product to help eliminate rattles and slop in that area.

But, back to the Andersen - while there are a couple of people that still use the WDH with a 3/4 ton truck, the vast majority do not.

Bill

 

[John E Davies]

32 minutes ago, Townesw said:

 

FYI, place a 12 inch bungee cord on top of the ball mount, and hook the ends to your chains. No more dragging and rusting!

That is a nice clean setup, I like it.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Frank C]

I dumped the Andersen when I upgraded to our F-250.   I purchased a 2-1/2” stinger mount and it’s all worked great.  The towing, tongue weight and cargo capacity ratings of the F-250 are all way more than sufficient for the Elite II, and the F-250 has electronic trailer sway control.  So the Andersen hitch isn’t needed for weight distribution or anti-sway.   Our previous tow vehicles were a Ford Expedition (very similar to the F-150 in all towing specs) and a Nissan Armada, and both of those vehicles needed the Andersen hitch for weight distribution to meet the tongue weight limit.  Some will say to use the Andersen even with an F-250 for additional safety but Andersen’s instructions very clearly state to TURN OFF any tow vehicle electronic sway control so the Andersen is actually counterproductive if your tow vehicle doesn’t need it. 
 

 

[Tonyjas]

Thank-you for some solid advise. The pictures are very helpful! I could use a set of rock tamers like those. Amazon? I was going to keep the W.D. hitch and disconnect the ant-sway on the F-250, but not anymore. New truck/new hitch. I also need to change out the safety chains or at least the snap hooks. Any suggestions? 

[Townesw]

I used Columbus McKinnon 3/8” G70 clevis slip hooks (WLL 6600 lbs) because they fit the holes in the hitch and Columbus McKinnon 3/8” G70 transport chain (WLL 6600 lbs) because it fit the hooks. I had some stainless steel spacers turned to 1.360” diameter, one at 1.740” long, two at 0.55” long, and two at 0.30” long. A hole bored through the spacers fits a 1/2 bolt. The 1.740” spacer just slips inside the tongue when the hitch bolts are loosened. The bolt is a 1/2 inch grade 8 because I didn’t want to enlarge the holes in the tongue. The unthreaded portion of the bolt extends almost to the outside edge of the last SS spacer. The middle photo shows the bolt before I shortened it and a regular nut for fitting purposes. I cut the excess threads off, secured it with a new Nylock nut and covered it with a new Radolid VCI nut cap.

 

[Frank C]

54 minutes ago, Tonyjas said:

Thank-you for some solid advise. The pictures are very helpful! I could use a set of rock tamers like those. Amazon? I was going to keep the W.D. hitch and disconnect the ant-sway on the F-250, but not anymore. New truck/new hitch. I also need to change out the safety chains or at least the snap hooks. Any suggestions? 

I use a couple quick links on the receiver frame slots to make it easier to connect the safety cable snap hooks.  And yes, the Rock Tamers are from Amazon, but make sure you get the set with a 2-1/2” yoke to fit the 2-1/2” stinger.  
 

Stainless Steel 316 Quick Link 1/2" (12mm) Marine Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS5C49E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R0TD0D7KRVPQPBAJ0HXF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[Mike and Carol]

When I went from a Ram 1500 to a Ram 2500 I stopped using the Andersen.  I bought a quality hitch that fits the 2.5” receiver without a sleeve.  It has made hitching and unhitching a lot easier and faster!  Mike

[Donna and Jim Y.]

On 11/18/2021 at 3:21 PM, FrankC said:

I dumped the Andersen when I upgraded to our F-250.   I purchased a 2-1/2” stinger mount and it’s all worked great.  The towing, tongue weight and cargo capacity ratings of the F-250 are all way more than sufficient for the Elite II, and the F-250 has electronic trailer sway control.  So the Andersen hitch isn’t needed for weight distribution or anti-sway.   Our previous tow vehicles were a Ford Expedition (very similar to the F-150 in all towing specs) and a Nissan Armada, and both of those vehicles needed the Andersen hitch for weight distribution to meet the tongue weight limit.  Some will say to use the Andersen even with an F-250 for additional safety but Andersen’s instructions very clearly state to TURN OFF any tow vehicle electronic sway control so the Andersen is actually counterproductive if your tow vehicle doesn’t need it. 
 

 

 

[Donna and Jim Y.]

We pick up our new Oliver II on January 13th and have a 2018 Ford Expedition Max 4x4.  Hoping that will be ok to pull with.  It does have the trailer package.  I'm curious about the mud flaps that attach to the hitch.  Are those included with the Anderson or can I purchase them somewhere else?  Thanks for your input and photo's!  

[John E Davies]

Jim, Amazon Prime has Rock Tamers for $390, but they are available a lot cheaper, shop around. Here is one I found.

https://www.unbeatablesale.com/product.jhtm?sku=myrd82286

And no, they are not part of the Andersen package. Oliver service can mount the flaps for you and trim the height as needed. Keep the extra strips of rubber, those can be added at the top to help seal off the gap there. The flaps should be rotated at an angle, not straight up and down, for best effect (so the rocks are deflected downwards, not back at your truck). They are quite heavy (37 pounds) and when combined with the Andersen (55 pounds) that adds a lot of weight behind your light duty truck. That all takes away from your available truck payload. If you want a much much lighter solution, look for one of the “broom” style gravel guards. Your Expedition Max should be a great TV, there are several others here with that truck, I think. Since your truck has third row seats, you could pull them out, that should get rid of perhaps 75 to 100 pounds of dead weight.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[Donna and Jim Y.]

Thanks so much John!!

[katanapilot]

On 11/23/2021 at 11:28 PM, John E Davies said:

Jim, Amazon Prime has Rock Tamers for $390, but they are available a lot cheaper, shop around. Here is one I found.

https://www.unbeatablesale.com/product.jhtm?sku=myrd82286

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

Thanks John.  I just bought a set for our Alaska trip next year.  Appreciate the link.