Townesw

With the inside work complete I went back to the roof area, trimmed the oozed butyl, wiped with isopropyl alcohol again, and taped the area to be caulked off leaving about a quarter inch gap from the edge of the flange in the front and rear and about an 1/8 inch gap on the sides where the caulk would be the shortest. I applied the caulk 3 times, wiping it off the first two times, reapplying the tape and recaulking each time because I didn’t like the way it looked. I finally left it alone because I decided that if I kept messing with it I would keep screwing it up and I was starting to get hungry and it was close to supper time. This picture shows the fan after the oozed butyl was trimmed back. It shows the built-up butyl in front of and behind the fan to keep the flange straight. This next picture is after the ASI 335 was applied. Notice that the black seal is straight, not bowed down at the front and rear due to having the flange pulled down to touch the roof. The black seal must remain straight so that the cover will seal properly when closed. I applied the ASI 335 to the screws but didn’t like the way they looked so I wiped it off. I had applied ASI 335 to the screw holes and the screws were twisted in through between 1 and 3 layers of butyl so I figured they were sealed well enough. The caulk job wasn’t perfect but it looks good from the ground. The ripples are from my hand shaking after going through the process 2 times before finally accepting that it wasn’t going to be perfect. I actually like the stepped edge of the caulk versus a feathered edge because I think the feathered edge of caulk doesn’t hold up well after repeated washing, drying, and waxing. We’ve pulled the trailer through wind and rain for 1350 miles and it has remained closed and hasn’t leaked. It is much quieter than the original Ventline fan. ASI 0240 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/asi-0240/ ASI 335 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/?product_search=335 It looks like ASI has two versions of the 335. The stuff I used looked like this Good luck on your installation. Bill

Picture below shows old Ventline fan removed and the roof area cleaned up. I used ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic scrapers. I cleaned up the edges of the original holes with a chamfer bit in a drill motor. The factory didn’t align the old vent with the hole very well and didn’t drill and chamfer the holes which resulted in chipped gelcoat. In this picture the pilot holes (1/16”) for MaxxFan Dome are located and drilled. I wanted the screws to be perpendicular to the MaxxFan mounting flange not the roof line so I tried to drill them at the correct angle to the surface of the roof. I did a lot of test fitting inside and out. The outside fan, the middle sleeve, and the interior trim ring must fit together well for this retrofit to work out right. I used a carpenter’s pencil and 2 rubber bands from of a bunch of broccoli to hold the sleeve in place while I got the pieces located just right. I did this before I marked the holes for the flange. New pilot holes are enlarged to 1/8 inch and chamfered Test fit the screws to make sure they are not too tight. If they are too tight you risk twisting the screw in two in the hole. If the test fit is too tight go up to 9/64 inch bit. I used a 1/16 inch drill for a pilot then enlarged with a 1/8 inch drill and finished with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. Be sure to use sharp bits and drill SLOW. I wanted the flange to be straight, not pulled down to fit the curved roof. I applied one layer of butyl all the way around the bottom of the flange. I then applied 2 short strips between about 10:00-2:00 and 4:00- 8:00. I again applied 2 even shorter strips between 10:30-1:30 and 4:30-7:30. I tried to build the butyl up in the places where the widest gaps would occur, that is the front and back of the fan. I wiped the mounting location with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry and filled the old and new screw holes with ASI 335 and set the fan in place using a couple of screws inserted through the flange and butyl for alignment. The black button on the handle goes toward the front of the trailer. Work the wires and splice connectors into the space between the hulls while inserting the fan assembly into the hole in the roof. Tighten each screw down a little at a time and try to keep from distorting the flange. I would tighten the screws and leave them for a while to let the butyl push out then I would tighten them a little more until I got the flange sitting like I wanted it to sit and then left the butyl to do what it wanted to for a while. While the butyl was oozing I went inside the trailer and placed the sleeve back in the hole and made sure the upper edge was against the bottom of the fan and the notch in the sleeve for the wire retainer was in place and using a pencil I marked a line around the sleeve where it exits the curved ceiling. I drew another line 3/8” below this line to account for the interior trim ring and cut the sleeve to this line using a pair of heavy shears and a razor knife and finished to fit with a sanding block. I attached the trim ring and tightened the screws enough to pull the ring up to conform to the curvature of the ceiling.

Finally got around to fixing the problems that I identified in my original post almost 2 years ago. I used a small drum sander on a cordless drill motor to make a cutout for the part of the accumulator that was rubbing. This also quieted a vibration heard during pump operation While I had the drum sander out I enlarged the cutouts above both rear jack manual operation studs so that I can now get the manual crank on them if needed I placed a couple of spare bolt protectors on some 1/2 inch nuts and threaded them on the exposed bolt ends where they contacted the heater duct I know that these are really simple fixes but they might help someone that doesn’t know that the problems even exist. Bill

Update to my original post I replaced my original Dill TPMS system with the new Dill Bluetooth TPMS system and have used it for the last 3 days. These sensors are internally mounted just like the sensors on your truck and automobile tires. My truck doesn’t have the required RPO necessary to receive the sensor signals but the output is displayed on my truck infotainment screen when my phone is plugged in. I usually keep my phone display on the Dill app and keep Google Maps displayed on the infotainment screen but here is a picture that shows the Dill output on both screens You can download the data from the sensors into Excel. Dill recommends that you use a BLE signal repeater to extend the signal to your phone. I am trying different locations for the repeater but for now I have it on the left rear corner of the dinette and plugged into the 12v accessory receptacle under the dinette. I attached the 12v accessory plug to the repeater wires. I am getting 100% signal reception with the repeater located here. Signal reception is noted on the app display. I really like this version of Dill’s TPMS system compared to the older version that I used from 2019-2025.

The steps on our Oliver have always been loud when being lowered or raised. I have taken some “steps” that have made them quieter. And before you ask, no, I don’t have before and after noise level analytical data. I just know that they are quieter. 1. I draw filed the top and bottom of both slots. This picture after a couple of draw passes with a file shows the roughness left by the machining process. The bright spots are the high spots of the rough surface. I suspect that one side of the slot was smoother than the other due to the direction of rotation of the cutting tool. Picture of the bottom of the right side slot after several passes using a draw file technique. Be sure to keep the swarf cleaned out of the file. There is a light shining on the surface. It is much smoother. I then applied some silicone lubricant to both sides of each slot and allowed it to dry. 2. I next reassembled the steps and placed (6) rubber bushings on the stainless steel rod to dampen the vibrations that the rod made when being drawn through the slot in the aluminum sides. 3. I also replaced the aluminum spacers on each side with polypropylene spacers. 4. I removed the female halves of the sex bolts that act as the pivot for the lower step. I used a T50 torx bit but it is actually a T55. I have the correct bit now. Never pass up the chance to buy a new tool. I applied silicone lubricant to the inside of the hole in the step side and to the outside of the binding barrel and allowed it to dry before reassembling. I will probably drill those holes out to receive Oilite bushings this winter but this will suffice for now. Material used. The rubber bushings are actually 1/2” ID x 2” OD x 2” long. The holes aren’t perfectly centered but I didn’t need for them to be. I chose 2” OD so that they would clear other parts of the step assembly. You will have to lubricate the step rod and the hole in the bushings to be able to assemble them. The polypropylene spacers came from McMaster Carr. Be sure to use a dry silicone lubricant instead of grease. The grease will retain grit picked up off the road. Bill

I have thought about putting the switch and LED between the TP holder and the air duct. Bill

That is why I want to use a threaded body switch. I see that you have run into this problem also. I have used panel mounted switches in thick material by finding a hose that the switch will fit tightly into, cutting a short ring out of the hose, and then slipping the ring over the back of the switch to hold it in place, sort of like threading a nut on. I have found an adapter to mount a panel mount using a threaded bushing. I had rather use a threaded switch but I may have to use this

I am looking for a round rocker switch, SPDT, weatherproof, threaded mount, not lighted, blade terminals. I am not finding anything like this using my usual search methods. I have removed the shelf from the bathroom vanity and have installed a marine hatch in its place. I now must relocate the pump switch. The factory used what I think is a DPDT panel mount switch and held it in place with a wad of caulk. I want to mount the switch more securely. Switch as mounted in the shower shelf Switch removed from shower shelf Where I want to place a new switch Wiring schematic showing switch I want to replace Thanks for your help Bill

@mossemi @NCeagle and others: Those of you that have done this modification, how did you caulk the side behind the hinge? I’ve got 2 layers of butyl tape on the vertical sides to offset the curvature of the cabinet. I can caulk 3 sides but not the side behind the hinge. Bill

Thanks for your responses. I found a newer version of the installation instructions online. My installation instructions dated 09-24-2019 do not have the note on the drawing that the instructions dated 04-13-2021 have regarding what button to place forward. The old Ventline fan that I removed has a steel base. The butyl tape used to bed it had been built up under the front and rear of the base so as to conform to the roof curvature. Bill

I took it to mean that you place the power button forward, not the release button. That’s why I posted this question, to get responses from owners whose Olivers had the MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome installed at the factory. Also, I don’t intend to pull the flange down much to form to the roof curvature. I intend to build the butyl tape up some under the front and rear of the flange where it stands proud of the surface. Bill

How does the factory orient the MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome in the bathroom? Installation instructions say orient the fan with the button towards the front of the coach but I’ve seen retrofit installations that orient it differently. Bill

@Boudicca908 921 is 22 oz bottle, 923 is 1 gallon jug https://www.duragloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/921-DURAGLOSS-FAST-CLEAN-SHINE.pdf 951 is 22 ounce bottle, 952 is 1 gallon jug https://www.duragloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/951-DURAGLOSS-AQUAWAX-SPRAY-WAX.pdf

@jd1923 It hasn’t happened to me but it has happened to at least 3 people in the following thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3447-left-black-tank-clean-out-hose-on/

Cross-over of water from the black tank into the gray tank through the common vent absolutely can and has occurred. More than one owner has attached a black tank flush hose, turned it on and forgotten about it. When the black tank fills water rises up the black vent and spills over into the gray vent. If the shower drain valve is closed the water comes up through the shower drain. If the shower drain valve is open the gray tank fills and then the water comes up through the shower drain.

Are they sure it’s kitchen water? Are they adding water to the black tank using the No Fuss Flush fitting? If they are flushing the black tank and have let it get too full and the shower drain valve is closed the water from the black tank can back up in the black tank vent and flow over into the sink drain and rise up through the shower drain and fill the shower pan and could actually overflow the pan and flood the trailer floor. Do not rely on the tank level display when diagnosing water level and drainage problems, or any other time really. I apologize for the “ands” and the run-on sentence. Bill

Read my posts in this thread. I used a Lippert tinted glass insert because the door is a Lippert. Be sure to get the frame release clips and a new inside and outside frame because you will break some tabs while removing the frames. The new frames will also have new intact seals. After installing the clear tinted glass I wanted a blind that could be operated without having to open the screen door. I had a friend that sews make me a blind out of heavy curtain material and used 2 spring rods to position the blind in the screen door frame. The top spring rod can be lowered to allow a viewing area at the top.

I have just started studying replacement air conditioners and have seen references to Dreiha Atmos 4.4 vs. Tosot. Is one a rebranded version of the other, or are these 2 different units, or is one a clone of the other?

Talked to Kevin Searer at SDG Elkhart. Stopped by without an appointment. Walked in and said I would like some info on installing a Tosot in an Oliver. He showed me the one on the demonstration stand in the workshop and turned it on. He said that you can stay in the parking lot the night before your conversion. They have 30a hookup. They pull your trailer in at 8am and 3 hours later they are done. Same hole as Dometic. Control panel is on the front right corner of the air box. They replace the Dometic thermostat with a simple thermostat for the existing furnace. Only thing I didn’t like was the condensate running off the roof. I didn’t ask pricing because I wasn’t ready to buy.

Looks like we picked the wrong CG to stay at in Elkhart

We’re traveling through Elkhart in a couple of days. Other than the RV Museum what do we need to see? Also, I’m a firm believer in carrying parts. Are there any real good RV parts retailers there? I’m especially interested in acquiring a Viair compressor kit. Is there a brick and mortar there that stocks Viair compressors?

@DavePhelpsI too stopped way before the spec torque of 85 lbf-inch. I like your SS fender washer idea.

@jd1923Yes Sir, the app displays pressure and temperature. I really like the Dill system but I want to do away with the windshield display. I’ve been studying the internet and my truck’s RPO codes trying to come up with a way to display the trailer sensor feedback on my 2019 (built August 2018) Duramax Infotainment System. I have the I06 radio and the Z82 towing package but I don’t have the additional RPO’s to do what I want to do. Some information online says that you can’t add the stuff I need but I’ve come across discussions in forums that say that you can add add stuff after production.

Is anyone using the new Dill Bluetooth TPMS? If so, how do you like it? I’ve been using a Dill TPMS since early 2019 and I really like it. I don’t want a system that uses externally mounted sensors on the valve stems. It’s time to replace the sensors mounted inside the tire and I see that Dill has a new Bluetooth version available without the dash or windshield mounted display. https://www.dillvalves.com/product_cpt/1604-v-bluetooth-aftermarket-tpms/

Pulled about 1000 miles with the Rockstar Commercial Tow Flap. I’m pleased with it so far. I’ll post a better picture later.