Suspension and Brakes Maintenance

[jd1923]

20 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Very nice job - almost to the point of being lovely.

Thank you @topgun2! Got the streetside bearings done yesterday. I was able to find sockets the correct diameter to press in the races. Packed the bearings with a convenient tool, otherwise it's a large swab of grease in your palm.

Removed the adjuster from the rear wheel to grease after having pressure washed this assembly. I ended up removing ALL the brake parts to grease the contact points and did some additional cleaning on the back sides of parts. When I work the streetside I will first remove ALL brake parts and pressure wash only the backing plates and suspension. You need these tools to do the complete brake job.

Wondering how y'all use Brakleen and apply grease where it is needed, as this spray will remove the grease as well as pressure washing. But I really don't need to know, just won't use the messy spray. When I disassemble parts, I clean them by hand with GoJo hand cleaner, rinse with water and use compressed air to dry, and they will come out as clean as the one pictured above!

The two axles both had identical labels, see label/part number, and there was another label "Nev-R-Adjust" on both. Love the REDNECK AL label - LOL! My front axle must be the older version.

The only differences are as follows; There is a different top post which does not need the oblong assembly plate, there are two springs (easier to remount with drum brake tools) vs the one main cross spring. The self-adjusters are identical with one exception. The second one has the spring (pictured). I don't see any purpose for the spring, except to hold the adjuster nicely to the shoes during assembly. The spring is extremely light duty and can't do much, or is this the reason why some shoes "over-tighten?" Hmm, probably not. I've done brake jobs on a dozen 50s-60s-70s cars with drum brakes. They all had the two top shoe springs with oblong plate, never a large cross spring, and I don't ever remember having a spring in the adjuster!

Tested the brakes, wheels on and truck attached. My son Adam hit the brakes as I was spinning the wheels. My heart sunk as the wheels did not stop! I could hear the magnets powered. What could be wrong? I had to rewire the front brakes, due to pack rats chewing the wires, but power to the magnet does not have a specific polarity. One wire needs power from the blue/brake wire and the other needs ground. They were working last week when I moved the trailer. Then we jacked up the other side, that I had not yet worked, same thing no brakes. Turned power up full on the brake controller and finally wheels would stop, but only a little. Symptoms are looking like a weak ground.

It turned out to be the connection at the hitch. Our trailer plug, looking old, has a damaged/recessed ground blade. Must have achieved ground last time, but not anymore. Went on Amazon, ordered a new one and some dielectric grease! 

I'm thinking a day off this project, before I tackle the other side! 😊

[MAX Burner]

Way to go, brother!  Nice looking running gear, for sure.  Almost makes me want to go and polish my aluminum frame rails!  HA!

[jd1923]

Said I needed a day off and then took 4-5! Worked a couple hours each of the last few on this job. One day, jacked up the curb side and tore everything down. Next day cleaned the brake parts and today I ran the pressure washer on the suspension, the brake backing plates and everything I could reach underneath. Been working a bit more than usual, getting in the way of my OTT work!

It's nice to line everything up to be ready. I need to install the races; the old ones are out. It's best to mount the shoes first with the spring-pins. Then the adjuster, the magnet and pulley line, and last the upper springs (got a nice tool to pull them).

Notice this side has two (2) like designs of the Nev-R-Adjust brakes. The ones with two small upper springs connected in an 'A' shape. My other side had the rear with the long horizontal spring, like @Ronbrink's above. What did a PO do? Smash the rear wheel and have to replace it? Or did Dexter build an axle like this, with different assemblies on each side? The one-off assembly had a thin weak spring in the adjuster. The other 3 did not and in all my life doing brakes on old cars, none of them ever had a spring in the brake shoe adjuster.

Both assemblies are equally clean. There is just more shop lighting on the left one. BTW, a little Sil-Glyde grease on the lever and spring behind the magnet helps too.

[topgun2]

Lookin' good!

Bill

[Cort]

Check those nice-looking brakes out! 🙂

[jd1923]

Got it back together Friday. Laying on the ground to get the adjusters close, what a pain! You have to turn the power up on your brake controller when first towing. Pulled the Oliver some on Sat and Sun. Used the controller actuator to get them to kick in often and adjust. Got the brakes nice now. I can't understand wanting manual adjust shoes, not me. And the wheels had quite a bit of up-n-down play before. Not anymore and it's done finally.

[Geronimo John]

On 9/22/2023 at 2:44 AM, Ronbrink said:

The CRC degreaser and brake cleaners I used worked great along with a parts cleaning brush and drip pan.

And the magical brass punch/race remover!  I have not seen one of those in decades.  Sweet.  Who did you order it from?

[Geronimo John]

 

On 9/27/2023 at 6:22 AM, mountainoliver said:

As a side note, after pressure washing the brake assemblies I’d recommend removing the adjusting screw assembly and disassembling it and thoroughly cleaning/lubricating them. I’d be willing to bet that water made its way into the threads and will corrode/lock up the adjuster. 

I guess that they would then become "Never Adjust". Not to be confused with "Manual Adjust".  Or does my brain need an adjustment?  Is there a tool for that?   LOL

GJ

[Ronbrink]

6 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Who did you order it from?

It was an Amazon purchase, however………