Flipping the cupboard door - Step 1

[Peggie]

8 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Or, 

you could give a call/email to the Oliver Service department and ask what they used back when your Hull was born.

Bill

Before I even started taking the door off I put a ticket in asking what adhesive was used and did they have any recommendations on how it could be done. This was the reply:

Hey Peggie, 

 

I do not know of anyone that has done this and do not know what would be needed to make this possible. The door trim could have been mounted with a couple of different things. Three things could have been used Velcro, caulked, or 3m double sided adhesive strips. This would be a question I would recommend posting on Facebook or the forum to see if anyone has done this. 

 

Regards,

Mike Sharpe

So here I am. And you have all been wonderful.

 

[Peggie]

10 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

You may be able to soften that caulk with a hair dryer on low. Don't use a heat gun. You could deform the fiberglass. 

You could also try mineral spirits (without the hair dryer, obviously. ) .  Run the overhead fan on exhaust, and open the windows. 

Where is the caulk you are still attempting to remove? I'm assuming the stuff in your first photo is what you've already taken out with plastic razor blades,?

There is residue on the trailer and on the door. There are 6 little strips of thick double faced tape. I'm going to leave them on as a guide for how thick the new adhesive needs to be and will put a little strip of double face tape on them to help with the stickiness.

I'll give the hair drier a try and mineral spirits too. Thanks.

[ScubaRx]

Acetone and/or Goo-Gone will clean up the fiberglass. 

FYI for everyone…There is nobody currently working at Oliver that was there when these early OEII’s were built. Jason has referred several folks to me for help in the last few years. I still have contact information for several former employees that were there when the trailer line resumed in 2013 and worked on for the next 5-6 years. They have provided valuable information to me in some instances. 

[Peggie]

8 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

Acetone and/or Goo-Gone will clean up the fiberglass. 

FYI for everyone…There is nobody currently working at Oliver that was there when these early OEII’s were built. Jason has referred several folks to me for help in the last few years. I still have contact information for several former employees that were there when the trailer line resumed in 2013 and worked on for the next 5-6 years. They have provided valuable information to me in some instances. 

When I was at Oliver they referred me to you and you've been very helpful. Thank you!

[SNY SD UP]

Me again.  

This may or may not work, but it will probably generate some additional topic traffic. 

First concern, he is going into a 'wood' door and 'we' are going into plastic.   
Next concern, would be what do you anchor the lower side of the piston to. Obviously the floor of the cabinet, but how solid is that to hold screws under tension.
I can see the top bracket being attached to the same type of round threaded metal disk on the outside of the cabinet that the existing hinges attach to. 
Finally,  would the working location of the piston or other 'spring loaded' scissors hinge' make it difficult to get large items in & out.

 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2023 by SNY SD UP
every now and then I hit submit, before it is ready for primetime...

[SNY SD UP]

On 12/3/2023 at 8:06 AM, Peggie said:

The Ceiling is curved where a latch might be most conveniently put. The picture is what I think I will do. At least right away. The hook is at the closest  flat point on the ceiling. I'll just put a small decorative chain on the door handle and continue to look at hinge options.

 

You are correct, the curved ceiling makes it a bit more challenging.
I know there are some "WOODWORKERS+OTT" owners on the forum, that may have some ideas on lift mechanism that might crossover from wood/MDF to an OTT plastic door.

I am following this mod/thread, as I have thought of this for some time with regards to the attic cabinet door, so when open, it does not interfere with TV viewing.  I want to be able to 'gently' lift & close, preferably auto-magically, but I guess manually would be the second choice. 

It might be as simple as using some double sided adhesive tape on "something like these" hooks to hold them in place, Clear (maybe there is a white) but functional. 
https://www.zoro.com/idesign-suction-hook-plastic-hook-clear-base-16600/i/G508348816/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=19633513665&productid=G508348816&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu77ScC7S6JEJPHqGA9qOdBxkgBzQvUXO3Gk3TQJsnrrGLxaH-wxnfMaAmaXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The problem is "it's a hook" that you have to 'manually mate' up with the opening on the door latch.

B~Out

[Peggie]

1 hour ago, SNY SD UP said:

Me again.  

This may or may not work, but it will probably generate some additional topic traffic. 

First concern, he is going into a 'wood' door and 'we' are going into plastic.   
Next concern, would be what do you anchor the lower side of the piston to. Obviously the floor of the cabinet, but how solid is that to hold screws under tension.
I can see the top bracket being attached to the same type of round threaded metal disk on the outside of the cabinet that the existing hinges attach to. 
Finally,  would the working location of the piston or other 'spring loaded' scissors hinge' make it difficult to get large items in & out.

 

 

 

I've pretty well given up on a hinge, and will attach a hook to the ceiling and a chain to the latch. 

[Peggie]

1 hour ago, SNY SD UP said:

You are correct, the curved ceiling makes it a bit more challenging.
I know there are some "WOODWORKERS+OTT" owners on the forum, that may have some ideas on lift mechanism that might crossover from wood/MDF to an OTT plastic door.

I am following this mod/thread, as I have thought of this for some time with regards to the attic cabinet door, so when open, it does not interfere with TV viewing.  I want to be able to 'gently' lift & close, preferably auto-magically, but I guess manually would be the second choice. 

It might be as simple as using some double sided adhesive tape on "something like these" hooks to hold them in place, Clear (maybe there is a white) but functional. 
https://www.zoro.com/idesign-suction-hook-plastic-hook-clear-base-16600/i/G508348816/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=19633513665&productid=G508348816&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu77ScC7S6JEJPHqGA9qOdBxkgBzQvUXO3Gk3TQJsnrrGLxaH-wxnfMaAmaXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The problem is "it's a hook" that you have to 'manually mate' up with the opening on the door latch.

B~Out

That hook is very much like the one I'll put on the ceiling. Except those are a nice unobtrusive clear and the ones I have on hand are silver.

[Peggie]

On 12/4/2023 at 3:28 AM, Peggie said:

There is residue on the trailer and on the door. There are 6 little strips of thick double faced tape. I'm going to leave them on as a guide for how thick the new adhesive needs to be and will put a little strip of double face tape on them to help with the stickiness.

I'll give the hair drier a try and mineral spirits too. Thanks.

Because I had some, I tried alcohol. Softened it right up. Still a bit of rubbing but not nearly as bad as I thought it might be.

[topgun2]

19 minutes ago, Peggie said:

Because I had some, I tried alcohol.

There's some humor in this somewhere!😆

[SeaDawg]

@Peggiehttps://www.boatingmag.com/installing-gas-strut-hatch-supports/

I spent some time yesterday reviewing your photos. (It was a nice distraction while my husband was in surgery for four hours.)

You already have some partitions/bulkheads that we don't have in the very early elites. You "could" attach some blocks on each side, without losing too much storage space. You have a stiffener piece of square aluminum tubing , near a possible attachment point for gas struts, and the stiffener relieves the "twist" of the lightweight plexi.. You might have to add a bit of material beyond the stiffener  to attach the round end to the aluminum stiffener. Might need different,  shorter screws. Most important that you weigh the door, and get an appropriate gas strut pair. Too strong, and they'll fly up. Too weak, they'll not hold position. (For example, we replaced the gas struts in our pickup bed camper a few years ago. I need both hands now to come, instead if one, as we had no way to weigh the topper. And struts are too strong.)

I think you have a friend helping you with this. Get his/her opinion if they've done any cabinetry work. If not, weigh it, do the best you can, and order from Amazon with free returns, and see what you think.. 

 

 

[Peggie]

1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:

@Peggiehttps://www.boatingmag.com/installing-gas-strut-hatch-supports/

I spent some time yesterday reviewing your photos. (It was a nice distraction while my husband was in surgery for four hours.)

You already have some partitions/bulkheads that we don't have in the very early elites. You "could" attach some blocks on each side, without losing too much storage space. You have a stiffener piece of square aluminum tubing , near a possible attachment point for gas struts, and the stiffener relieves the "twist" of the lightweight plexi.. You might have to add a bit of material beyond the stiffener  to attach the round end to the aluminum stiffener. Might need different,  shorter screws. Most important that you weigh the door, and get an appropriate gas strut pair. Too strong, and they'll fly up. Too weak, they'll not hold position. (For example, we replaced the gas struts in our pickup bed camper a few years ago. I need both hands now to come, instead if one, as we had no way to weigh the topper. And struts are too strong.)

I think you have a friend helping you with this. Get his/her opinion if they've done any cabinetry work. If not, weigh it, do the best you can, and order from Amazon with free returns. 

I love my friend and he's been a huge help with some of my projects but knowledge and experience wise he's just a me with bigger muscles and more tools. There's an RV mechcanic that does woodworking who will be back in the park this month and I may talk to him. In the meantime, the hook willhave to do.

 

 

[Ronbrink]

On 12/2/2023 at 2:51 PM, Peggie said:

I asked a while back about flipping the cupboard door above stove.

Hi Peggie. Curious why you are flipping the cupboard door, I could not find where you stated your rationale. I’ve often thought of doing the same at the rear attic to lessen the chance of its’ impact to the TV when deployed. 

[Peggie]

2 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

Hi Peggie. Curious why you are flipping the cupboard door, I could not find where you stated your rationale. I’ve often thought of doing the same at the rear attic to lessen the chance of its’ impact to the TV when deployed. 

My coffee pot is just under the cupboard and my coffee supplies (coffee, sweetener, cups, filters) are in the cupboard, so the door is right in my face when I'm making coffee. (Yes, I'm serious about my coffee).

In the trailer I had before the Oliver all of the cupboard doors opened upwards and I loved it. It's the only trailer I've had that I never hit my head on. 

[Ronbrink]

1 hour ago, Peggie said:

the cupboard doors opened upwards and I loved it.

That makes perfect coffee sense! 

[Peggie]

I've tracked down the hinge that was used on my old trailer. Ideally, this is the hinge I'd like to use. (Or try to use).

https://rvandmarine.com/product/dgn-rv-2856-cabinet-door-hinge/

 

[topgun2]

Sure do like the price.  Hope it works out for you.

Bill

[SeaDawg]

Those hinges look to me like they are made for face frame cabinets. I'm guessing your previous trailer had wood face frame  cabinets, with full overlay doors.

Maybe, possible, with a wood block fastened/tabbed to the back of the opening, and material added to the door. IDK  if the work is worth the price. Or if it would even reach 90 degrees, and mount the door flush,  with extra material for the screws to hold. 

I've not used them, so can't advise. For the price, you can play with them, with removeable mounting on the added thin blocks, and see what thicknesses of added material would work. 

Best of luck. I'd get the soft close. The 90 degree is going to stick straight out, btw. Not a big swing up. Something to think about. In my little trailer, that would be about eye level, for short me. 

[Peggie]

1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:

The 90 degree is going to stick straight out, btw. Not a big swing up. Something to think about. In my little trailer, that would be about eye level, for short me. 

 I had to get out the tape measure for this one. The height of the top of the door is 5'10", plenty of clearance for me (5'7 ½") but a problem for taller folks. I thought the ceiling would stop it from going much higher but when we held the door up, it had plenty of clearance. Looks like it's back to the drawing board.

In the photo, my index finger is pointing to where a hook would go on the ceiling.

[Ronbrink]

7 hours ago, Peggie said:

In the photo, my index finger is pointing to where a hook would go on the ceiling.

It appears the cupboard door is flush against the hull fiberglass; seems a simple twist lock type sash fastener would suffice. Here is one for example only, the arm would swing down and hold the door in the open position. If not flush at the top, it could be mounted on either side, in similar manner. A ‘search’ will reveal a variety of this type fastener to consider for your specific application.