Jump to content

Norcold N412 Removal


Emgmtg

Recommended Posts

Need some advice on removing a Norcold N412 from my 2018 OE2.  After removing the interior refrigerator door, I have removed the 2 screws from the bottom trim and 2 screws above the door through 2 holes going up through the display control panel (eyebrow?).  I removed the exterior vent doors and disconnected the LP, AC and DC connections and the tape that was attaching the baffle to the top of the refrigerator. I still cannot get the fridge to budge.  Am I missing something?  Are there screws behind the control panel inside?  I can't seem to figure out how the display comes off.  I'm guessing clips, but I don't know where they are and don't want to break anything.  The only other thing in the exterior vent were a couple of metal plates that were only taped down behind the refrigerator.  Even had a friend stop by to help but even with 2 of us we couldn't get it to move.  Any help is appreciated.  

Ollie4.jpg

Ollie3.jpg

Ollie2.jpg

Ollie1.jpg

Hull #402  |  2018 Elite II Twin Bed |  2018 Ford F-150 Lariat 3.5L Twin Turbo Max Tow   |  Florida

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure this will help as its for a Dometic, but here’s a link to how JED removed his Dometic.

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Like 1

2023 Elite II, Hull# 1386, Lithium Platinum Package (640AH, 400W Solar, 3000W Xantrex Inverter)
Truma water heater & AC

TV: 2024 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L 10-Speed Allison

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
39 minutes ago, Emgmtg said:

Need some advice on removing a Norcold N412 from my 2018 OE2.

If a review of the link posted by rich.dev above doesn't help you then I'd suggest a call to the Service Department of Oliver.  They might be able to give you some quick "hints" as to how to get that fridge out.

Good luck!

Bill

  • Like 3

2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After looking at the pictures that JED posted I noticed he had what looked like Styrofoam stacked on top of the refrigerator.  I took off the baffle in the upper vent and mine was full of Styrofoam also but with sprayfoam in between a couple of layers.  It is so tight I can't even move the Styrofoam.  I guess that could be one reason I can't move the refrigerator.  The only way to get the styrofoam out would be to tear it out. I guess then I would have to replace it with new styrofoam when reinstalling the refrigerator.  I'm going to call the service department Monday and see what they recommend.  Thanks for the help.  

Ollie Foam2.jpg

Ollie Foam1.jpg

  • Thanks 1
  • Like 1
  • Wow 2

Hull #402  |  2018 Elite II Twin Bed |  2018 Ford F-150 Lariat 3.5L Twin Turbo Max Tow   |  Florida

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming you are going to reinstall the fridge, maybe use some real insulation like the pink Owens Corning 1” foam board, that is rated R5. I am not sure if regular styrofoam has that high an insulation value. The pink stuff is fire retardant and will not absorb moisture at all. Lots of aluminum HVAC tape will hold it in place and hopefully seal the gaps. The idea is to stop outside air entry. I sure would be reluctant to foam it back like yours is now, with the spray stuff….

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-NGX-F-150-1-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-SSE-R-5-XPS-Rigid-Foam-Board-Insulation-20WENGX/315197840

You can also use that board to insulate bare spots like under the bathroom vanity. … https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9039-how-to-bath-sink-compartment-mods-duct-rework-insulation-disconnect-flush-line/
 

Please start a complete thread on your job, I don’t recall seeing one for the Norcold unit. Good luck!

John Davies

Spokane WA

  • Thanks 3
  • Like 1

SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Here's a link to the installation manual. Might help, until you hear back from Oliver.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/327956/Norcold-N400.html#product-N412

  • Like 5

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I "dug out" all the Styrofoam that was held in place by spray foam I was able to remove the refrigerator and replace the bad cooling unit.  What I did notice while removing the bad cooling unit is that the cooling plate in the refrigerator with the fins had a small gap on one side and at the top.  Upon installation of the new cooling unit the gap seems to be slightly bigger.  The unit seems to be cooling great now.  Are those gaps a big deal, and do they need to be sealed?  Or are they sealed from behind by the cooling unit?  The opening in the refrigerator behind the fins seems to be slightly too big to be completely covered by the fins as I removed the plate, and it will not entirely cover the opening.  Thoughts?

Ollie Fin2.jpg

Ollie Fin1.jpg

Hull #402  |  2018 Elite II Twin Bed |  2018 Ford F-150 Lariat 3.5L Twin Turbo Max Tow   |  Florida

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

@Emgmtg, that's a curious situation.

As you know, the function of the "fins" is to absorb the warm air in the fridge. Where that warm air that bypasses the fins will go, with the gap, is a good question for Norcold technical support, or Jason  at Oliver. (Kind of looks like yellow insulation behind the gap in your photo. If that's so, I'm guessing it "could" collect condensation, like the fins. But, im certainlynot a fridge tech.)

I don't recall ever seeing a gap like that in any of our 3ways. 

I think you're a brave guy,  replacing your own cooling unit. Kudos to you.

Our neighbor replaced the cooling unit in his older motorhome, but he used to run a small-scale appliance repair business, on the side.

 

  • Like 3

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Emgmtg, I just took some no so great photos of my fins and noticed similar gaps,  My guess is for easy of assembly, the cutout is a tad larger than the fins.  This gap is also covered by the backing plate?  Was any sealant used around the edges of the backing plate when you disassembled? 

Hope this helps.

image.jpeg.60c2076a45dbd900b52a9224604f92f2.jpeg

image.jpeg.1dbf728cce4c28342dd786bfdbab7f2a.jpegimage.jpeg.4ef7476fd035c17501bcd9ca25fe992a.jpeg

image.jpeg.18946074b6a2c4fa060f07f72d9d50e9.jpeg

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Like 3

SE Texas  | 2021 Elite II  Twin Bed # 927  "Lucy"  |  2019 F250 FX4 6.7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was told by the vendor that I bought the replacement cooling unit from that the gap is not that unusual and not to worry about it. It is completely sealed from behind the refrigerator when the new cooling unit is installed and sealed.  The new cooling unit (backing plate) is sealed with spray foam and foil tape so that it is air tight.

  • Thanks 1
  • Like 3

Hull #402  |  2018 Elite II Twin Bed |  2018 Ford F-150 Lariat 3.5L Twin Turbo Max Tow   |  Florida

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...