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Custom Automatic Leveling for the Oliver's Barker Jacks Part 3: I skipped over a lot of detail to keep this project interesting, and it’s probably still too much information. But some might be interested to hear about some of the background work that was involved. After the test board phase was complete, and everything was working well on the bench, the system was installed in the trailer for real-life testing. This was an anxious time because it had only been tested with simulated current, and I had no idea how it would react under real current conditions. Things went south immediately! I started testing with rear jacks because they were easier to wire and much more complex than the tongue jack. I didn’t want to run the tongue jack wires if the whole project could end up in the trash bin! I came up with a test procedure to verify each function in different scenarios of operation, and that required manual jack operation. That’s when the problems started! I was blowing the 30 amp jack fuses and couldn’t figure out why. I first focused on the H-bridge relay wiring as the problem. Then I suspected that the ESP-32 or driver outputs were miss-wired during transition from the test board. They had been soldered together one wire at a time under magnification, and back tracing the bundled wires was a nightmare. I couldn’t find the problem and came close to scrapping the whole project. I was so confident in the design, and overly focused on wiring, that I completely overlooked the obvious. There was a major flaw in the way the auto-leveling system was isolated from the manual jack switches. I had used a high-amperage relay that closed to a common ground only when the H-bridge relays triggered, which broke the short circuit path when the manual switches were used. However, I hadn't considered that the pole-reversing function of the switches created a different ground path through the hot side of the leveling system. The solution required major re-work, replacing the single ground isolation relay with six 30/40 amp relays that isolate the manual switches from both the ground and hot side. Although there were two spare Darlington driver channels capable of handling two relays each, there weren't enough channels for six new relays and a second driver was added. The system now runs 12 relays from 9 driver channels — six H-bridge relays and six isolation relays, two per jack. All the components were installed in a 12” project box that was limited in size by the 3-D printer capacity. So the relays were stacked 2 high on a stepped base to save space, and a elevated terminal block helped with wire congestion. I was able to mount the current sensors directly on the PCB with the ESP-32 and other modules. It’s tight, but nicely compact too! The switches for the leveling system are mounted on a 3-D printed control panel inside the outside storage garage. The panel includes flush to the surface push-buttons to safeguard against accidental activation, one for “Auto Leveling” and the other for “Retraction.” There is a master On/Off switch, status LED, and a Piezo Electric buzzer for the status tones. The entire panel is also recessed to protect it from cargo. The system can be shut down with the On/Off switch, or by re-pressing either momentary switch. The systems parasite draw is near zero when on, but it’s normally off when not in use. The existing freshwater control system was incorporated into the lower part of the control panel due to space constraints. It has a 4-way water pump switch for the outdoor shower, with indicator LED. There is also a 4-position, 6-contact, rotary switch that controls motorized valves for the four freshwater configurations; Normal, Freshwater Tank Drain, Boondocking, and Winterizing. The LED indicators show configurations other than normal. A printed weather proof hood was used for wire penetration into the tongue jack head, and a terminal board was used to splice into the rear jack wiring. This was a useful addition for quick disconnecting and troubleshooting. Those were the only modifications made to the trailer, other than enlargement of the existing switch panel cutout on the garage wall. All the custom components used in this project were designed with a free on-line CAD program called TinkerCad. Some items were 3-D printed from PLA filament, a plant based plastic. Other pieces were printed from ABS plastic for better durability, or TPU — a rubbery filament. Automotive Deutsch style plug-in connectors were used to connect the switch panel and control box, and they allowed me to connect a remote switch box that was used to operate the system from inside the trailer during testing. There is also a panel mount USB cable port for a laptop connection to view the serial monitor or update the software. The system needs a one time calibration that is done with the trailer perfectly level. Both momentary switches are held for 5 seconds until the Status LED quickly flashes three times and the audible calibration tone indicates satisfactory level. The software determines the pitch and roll off-sets from absolute level, and sets them as the new target level +/- 0.2 degrees pitch and 0.3 degrees roll. This equates to about 1/4 to 1/2 inch tolerance. The end result works great! There will probably be more software fine tuning in actual camping conditions, but it will be easier to do that in the future. I’m just finishing up a Bluetooth App for the automatic leveling controls, and it will include setting adjustments for tolerance, ground contact pressure, clutch runout, leveling step durations, and more! If you made it this far, I hope you enjoyed the project! Cheers! Geoff

Sweet! I see a new mattress in "theOrca's" future.

Yeah, we have a their Cali-King in the master plus a queen at home, two singles in the Oliver! The factory is in the valley west of Phoenix. We drove down with a flatbed trailer for the king (solid frame hybrid model), but the foam models are rolled up and shipped at the quoted price, always 25% OFF! I was guessing a custom shop in CA would be $$$! We got 30x75" mattresses, pulled the stitching on one corner and I trimmed the radius with an insulation knife after cutting a cardboard template. Tacked the corner together in a couple spots and the mattress pad holds it nicely together. We got the 12" for more comfort, but it's a bit too tall if you like to sit back there (we don't). The height also makes the window blinds too close when laying down. But the good news is the extra height keeps our old Springer off the beds! 🤣 Two 12" mattresses for under $1000 shipped to you door, and they have 6-8-10-12" heights. Less height is more firm and less money. https://rvmattress.com/products/brooklyn-chill?variant=46206649139399

I just bought four new Concorde AGM's last summer. Hopefully by the time they age-out (unless I age-our first) the new "solid state Lithium" batteries will be readily available. From the available literature, three times the power storage for one half the weight and volume is what to expect. Also, pretty much near zero chance of fire. We live is an amazing time...

Yikes! They just quoted me a thousand dollars ODT for that same mattress. ( For one.) The Queen size Brooklyn Bedding mattress in my house cost under $1,300...

I bought a gallon when Bill suggested it last time, June 2024. Amazon says unavailable today. We keep a small spray bottle with other cleaners in a tub behind the toilet. If y’all were nearby, I’d fill a bottle for you. We’ve only used less a pint so far! https://a.co/d/0gKeh4Do Also per Bill’s suggestion, got some 303 protectant. Use it more on our trucks than the Oliver and it does the job! https://a.co/d/0hAiMh3M

Toni - Sorry, but, the last numbers that I have for interior detailer and Aquawax are 923 and 952 as mentioned above. I'd suggest to either call them at 336-229-1303 or email them at info@duragloss.com They have always been very nice and I'm sure that they can tell you which of their products are equal to the interior detailer and Aquawax. Hope you are doing well! Bill p.s. just went to the Duragloss site and did a search for both 923 and 952. Both came up as 921 and 951 as you mentioned. But, in looking at the picture and description of the product it appears to me that both are the same as they used to be at the different numbers. The 951 is still labeled as "Aquawax" but the 921 is labeled as "Fast Clean and Shine".

Bill, I've been meaning to ask you about this. After you shared that info with me last summer, I tried to locate those products. On the Duragloss website, when I search for "923" the only result I see is "921", and similarly for "952" I only see "951". And if I search "interior detailer" I see "491".... It's as though they have switched around the product names and numbers. Can you confirm which of these are the right products? Thanks!

Same here, even in the Arizona sun. 90% of our roof is facing east or west. It may have made more sense if we had a large section of roof facing south.

There are numerous videos on YouTube showing how to setup the Andersen Weight Distribution hitch - like THIS ONE FROM ANDERSEN. Bill

Beef up the leaf springs on the Oliver and ditch the Andersen ASAP 😎 (given a 2500+ series truck). Yes, as Chris noted, only with proper tension is it a WDH. And if OTT is still installing Dexter 1750 LB springs, the hulls waddle like a duck! 🤣

Eleven years ago while at my first Oliver Owner's Rally a former owner showed me a mixture of Duragloss products that has kept the interior of my looking like it just came off the showroom floor. I believe that Duragloss may have changed the numbers of their products - but - here is the receipe that has worked all these years: In a small spray bottle (I got mine at the Dollar Store) mix four parts Duragloss interior detailer (923) with one part Duragloss Aquawax (952). While I do not use it on the floor due to not wanting the floor to be slippery, I do use this spray on everything else - counters, stove, microwave, stainless steel, all fiberglass (walls, ceiling, bathroom), the mirrored cabinet doors, the mirrored bathroom door, everything. Take a microfiber cloth and fold it, wipe the spray with one side, turn the cloth over and wipe again with the other side and I'm done. The interior detailer cleans and the small amount of wax contained in the Aquawax leaves just enough was on the surface to help dirt to not stick to the surface. Bill p.s. Duragloss can be contacted at: www.duragloss.com

Still is out West, except perhaps the Pacific coast. Interstates, campground hookups and generators just aren’t cool. 😎 They just installed a slew of Tesla charge stations at our mall here in Prescott. We could charge while shopping or playing pickleball, but the stations have been mostly empty since most mall-goers are only minutes from home. Don’t know of any others in our grand Yavapai County and the Prescott National Forest which equals the size of New Jersey! None in the public lands, meaning 85% of this very large state. When you get off the interstates, going downhill you have to drive more safely, slow down for steep curves, other drivers and stop at intersections. 10% to 8%, must be ideal on interstate roads.

The sway control comes from the resistance from the inner plastic hub that the ball rides in. So as long as the chains are 'engaged', meaning little play (not slack), than if the trailer fishtails that resistance will mitigate it I believe. So I do think the sway is always active. For my rig I think it's a non issue. The truck weighs more than the trailer, has rear steering (the rear wheels steer for a fantastically tight turning circle) and sway control. That means they'll use that rear steering to counteract any sway. But the Ollie doesn't serve up any sway I can tell so it's all moot AFAIK. The tension rod systems provide WD because the bars are always tensioned. But without tensioned chains, no WD. It's a two axis system - yaw control is provided by the ball insert friction. WD is provided by a negative pitch force which is nonexistant here, if you know what I mean.

Chains have to be tensioned to distribute weight, and I don't think you'll have any sway control either without the tension.

I found towing and the setup easy. With the Anderson for me simply adjusting via the bolts to slack or tighten the chains far easier and faster than the 'lift the truck' method. The only puzzling thing is weight distribution. I don't see how this is providing any. The Oliver techs put 5 threads on it and recommended that the chains be slightly slack with a bit of play. This isn't distributing any weight, at that point it's just a receiver on the ball with sway control. If the truck inclines up relative to the trailer then that should add some tension and WD, but otherwise no. What's the thinking here?

"Free" does not account for your investment in solar hardware, and the opportunity cost of those dollars. When we priced solar installation on our home in central Idaho in 2016, it did not "pencil out" vs. the cost of buying grid power. When the need to replace even LiFePO4 batteries at least every 10 years, solar panels every 20 years and the loss of investment earnings on the $50K plus cost of the system were added up, that investment made no sense for us, even with federal tax credits at the time.

He doesn’t use an Andersen hitch on his Tundra?

Never been to Mississippi before, it was an experience. Coming into the Davis campground the surrounding woods were smoking from a fire that just came through. We've suffered some wildfires at home - think leaving your house at midnight because you can see a fire line approaching - so my wife has some PTSD. So that was a little disconcerting shall we say. Anyhow talked to the camp host (who had lived in the Bay Area so we swapped some stories), he said the Forest Service told him the night before they were doing a controlled burn. He was like "but I've got campers here!" 😅But the wind always seemed to blow from the lake so they managed it well such that it just came up to the border and cleared out the brush. Unfortunately around here it's not that easy so the dead wood accumulates. The Natchez was a great drive, wanted to do it for a long time and was happy to find that Oliver is 15 minutes from a campground on the parkway.

Davis Lake was a great stop on our journey from Nashville to Natchez on the Trace.

In one of the factory tour videos on YT from years ago I caught that the tour guide recommended using Duragloss products for fiberglass care. Specifically 501 exterior wax (unless you SiO2 coat obviously), and 923 and 952 interior. When I was at the factory I noticed that in service they were selling the 923 wipe down, and they also had the Duragloss black streak remover, which I picked up. My review ... Duragloss FC (Fast Clean & Shine) Quick detailer. Seems fine, I recommend gloves. Leaves a scent which dissipates. Mild spray soap - or water, would probably clean as well but I suppose this is doing some kind of surface care. Marine & RV Black Streak Eliminator 581 I had noticed from videos that people will get marks on the fiberglass from stainless items rattling around. I'm a little fussy about this trailer and didn't want that, but on our inagural trip it wasn't set up fully so I got a few, so I tried this. It actually works! Spray on (careful of runs), let sit 15 seconds, than wipe off, and wipe with straight water. Repeat, and it does remove light marks. Deeper scratches (I have a few) are harder, but keep at it. Question Anybody tried Aquawax (951) on the interior?

When I read that, I immediately had the visual image of the bad guy of "The Fifth Element" movie stomping down his space ship stairs muttering: "I you want something..." Gary Oldman was perfect for that role.

No actually it's the opposite. I just came up the Eastern Sierra, 5k ft to 8.2k, dropped 10% on the battery and gained back 8% on the other side. Regeneration which ICE vehicles don't enjoy. It's even greater with a trailer since you reduce the gain down, I put it at 0.5, so the brakes get used very little (just feathering to smooth out stops). I'll admit even I was a little surprised, I wasn't expecting it but these EV's love that kind of backcountry road travel. On the freeway they suck energy just like ICE, especially when driving into the wind. Well I'll tell you anyhow 😅That exact same scenario with an (Silverado or Sierra) EV adds 25 minutes. But in compensation, at home you never have to drive to the gas station and fill up since you charge off the house. Free in my case since I have solar. Over the course of the year I think it comes out ahead, time wise. When traveling I'm happy to get a longer break personally, but to each his own. Things have changed quickly, as they do with technology. My truck has 500 mile range not towing freeway driving, 375 miles freeway towing, depending on conditions of course. If you like off grid camping, with an EV you get essentially unlimited silent power. I charged up the house batteries off the truck while everybody else ran noisy generators. As for charging being undependable and scarce, that's no longer an issue. Last and this year especially the networks have been throwing it in at a ferocious pace. We just drove 6k miles to pick up the trailer without a single charging issue, or a single problem finding it. Even in the deep south, hey even little Hohenwald has fast chargers! But public fast charger infrastructure is in the knee of the 'S curve' of technology adoption. Just as happened with gas stations in the early 20th century. Anyhow on the Pebble OP, IMO it's solving a problem that has already been solved. On another forum a member bought one, they're getting 1.7 mi/kWh with the Pebble. But I get 1.3 mi/kWh with the Oliver - so it's a lot of expense, complication for little benefit. Oliver isn't kidding when they say it's an aerodynamic trailer, in ideal conditions it's a 35% loss which compares favorably with the usual 50% loss you'll see with other trailers.

Hey @shhQuiet just wanted to let you know your videos were a major source of inspiration in my purchase over the last couple years. I'm nearing retirement, but as seems to happen things have been getting more intense at work (micromanaging), and lets just say I was having a pretty hard time of it leading into everything coming together and picking up my trailer at the factory last month. Your camping style is similar to mine and the low key non scripted videos of you just doing your thing was a mental salve. Not only that, since we're in California with no dealers we needed to make a 6k+ trip out to Tennessee and camp back, which was a bit of a big deal since we hadn't done this type of camping before (I used to backcountry hike and car camp on fishing trips with my dad). I used your videos to help the initial planning, we stayed at Meriweather, then went on to Davis Lake near Tupolo. My wife was pretty skeptical, shall we say, of this whole adventure. I showed her your videos of these campgrounds to smooth over the concerns. Anyhow looking forward to continuing to follow along, thanks for sharing.

HERE is a new video from Oliver featuring Aaron Wolters. Bill