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Jd, you make a good point, I replaced a Furrion DV1230, and it is indeed smaller than the older unit you have. I 'll go back and make an edit.. BTW, a guy like you needs a 3-D printer! I can’t list all the tool parts, jigs and adapters Iv’e made. It's another tool you don’t know you need until you have it. You could actually print some pretty decent white grill covers, or a larger bezel to fit a new stereo in that oversized hole. Just sayin’ Cheers! Geoff

One post was re our hull. I got very lucky finding a local independent, referred by my auto body guy, who is quite meticulous himself. My price was considerably lower, but it's not just about price. Having good responsible local resources is best when available. Now I have a local go-to guy, making it easy whenever our Ollie needs a sprucing up! But we're rather far from the great state of Maine! Though I believe @ripple963 has the right idea in asking. Keep looking! Finding a local company was on my mind for two years as she got more and more pasty white! If not in Maine, maybe you'll find a great company in nearby New Hampshire! 😎 That great state of Tennessee is too far for most of us!

That is why I want to use a threaded body switch. I see that you have run into this problem also. I have used panel mounted switches in thick material by finding a hose that the switch will fit tightly into, cutting a short ring out of the hose, and then slipping the ring over the back of the switch to hold it in place, sort of like threading a nut on. I have found an adapter to mount a panel mount using a threaded bushing. I had rather use a threaded switch but I may have to use this

Interesting idea with Father's Day coming up!

Thanks!

So, I had this on my to-do list since Mike started this thread... What a difference in two hulls of the same era. Maybe the junction box on hull #135 took some water at some point. You can certainly see corrosion in Mike's pictures. Or maybe Mike got the bad installer on this one, right after the guy messed up something else on hull #113! Inside our junction box it's just perfect, clean as can be, everything tight! I didn't touch a thing, just replaced the cover, and for me this is not an annual inspection item.

Geoff, thank you for addressing the speakers too. It's nice OTT is installing white-clad speakers in newer hulls. It's odd that advertised 6.5-in speakers are closer to 5.25". Maybe the outer dia of the grille is 6.5". On ours the circle for mounting screws is 5.4" dia and ours came with Jensen speakers. They're quite heavy and solid and to my ear still in good working condition after 10 years. Only OTT has the uncanny ability to drill holes and then drill more holes! I could insert a half dozen pics showing drill-happy installs!🤣 Shame we must do extra work to account for lazy work. You fabricated a very nice trim plate to cover it up! 😎 WARNING! If you have an older hull like ours, the IRV62 may not work for you! The cut-out on ours is 9 1/4" wide and 6" tall. The picture on the IRV62 Amazon listing shows the face is 8 1/4" x 4 3/8". Given this the IRV62 would fall right into the massive opening cut in our hull. No wonder ours is so ugly, it's BLACK and 11" x 7" HUGE! (picture shown w/o outer bezel) Yesterday I was working in the Oliver, fixing a couple of drawers, replacing the Blum undermount drawer slide on one and new orange latching ends on another. Because of your post, I thought to fire up the Furrion, listen to a local FM station while working. Yes, I needed the flashlight on my phone and it took me 5 minutes to figure out the interface! When we travel, Chris is usually the one to operate the Furrion stereo. She will pair it to her phone, or sometimes at dinner she will play a travel CD she burned for our trip. Kudos to her for learning to operate this crazy box. Your IRV62 looks much better and you can just look at the front panel picture to see the simple buttons make sense, are intuitive. If they only made one in white or gray! When searching online for wall mount RV radios, you'll find nothing but BLACK! I did find a Jensen model that would fit the larger opening cut into our hull. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082VXFC7W/ In our 3-zone system, Zone A are the front speakers, Zone B for the rears and Zone C is not wired to anything. Yep, for the 4-speaker Oliver configuration two zones is all you need. It would be nice if Zone C was wired to two exterior speakers. But, the Oliver really needs a special zone! One that when eating dinner the speaker over my head is not powered on! Just bad placement. I would rather they had mounted both left and right front speakers above the closet. And sound from the rear speakers pointing down is lost in the bedding. Speakers left and right of the attic door would certainly produce better sound. The radio outer bezel popped off easily with a plastic pull tool. Then 4 screws and the entire radio pulls out. I also removed a speaker grill. Maybe paint would lighten up the look some. Though I'm cautious when it comes to paint. It goes on easy but you're stuck when not satisfied with the result! Much ado about nothing here, at least for me and for now, as I will likely leave well enough alone. 😒 I learned a bit though. Thanks again Geoff, and enjoy your new IVR62!

"My Bad" but, I have found that if wifey starts a conversation with, "Honey, I think you need a tool to help you do this", she has my complete attention for the duration of the conversation, no matter what else we discuss... I think she realizes it too, as we have had some rather meandering (like what do tools have to do with making sure my daily work clothes are in the hamper on laundry day...) conversations, but I was paying attention to every word until we were done. Before we were married, my father told Maggie, "He is not hard of hearing, He is hard of listening..." Now I have hearing aids, and I still do not listen. 🤭 B~Out, I just heard the word "tool".

I get switches from DigiKey. Use the more common DPDT like the original one. Part number CW110-ND. Haven't seen any with threads and nut, so be carful to drill the hole the correct size. The problem is that the fiberglass is too thick for the switches to snap in properly. Therefore some adhesive is needed. Oh, be carful to keep track that the center wire goes back to center, the other two don't matter. Good luck! Geoff

I am looking for a round rocker switch, SPDT, weatherproof, threaded mount, not lighted, blade terminals. I am not finding anything like this using my usual search methods. I have removed the shelf from the bathroom vanity and have installed a marine hatch in its place. I now must relocate the pump switch. The factory used what I think is a DPDT panel mount switch and held it in place with a wad of caulk. I want to mount the switch more securely. Switch as mounted in the shower shelf Switch removed from shower shelf Where I want to place a new switch Wiring schematic showing switch I want to replace Thanks for your help Bill

This is one of the major reasons I had my Ollie done by the CGI guys. Certainly I didn't want my Ollie screwed up by someone that really didn't know what they were doing. There are a few shops doing this kind of work in and around the Asheville, NC area, but, very few of them had ANY EXPERIENCE with fiberglass. And, reviews were generally mixed. After seeing how hard CGI guys work, seeing the results of their work and then getting to meet them at one of the Oliver Owner's Rallies, I was sold. There have been a few posts here on the Forum by members that have used other outfits and they have noted satisfactions with the results at prices that are competitive or even lower than CGI. Unfortunately, I do not recall any of those posts being for ceramic coating shops anywhere near Maine. Good luck! Bill

When I first starded to look for the missing knockout the first thing my wife said was I need a borescope camera. So in my thinking thats a green light to make the purchase. I'm sure they make one with a magnet tip just incase I do find it, LOL

"The price for a horoscope varies from around $30 to hundreds of dollars. " Darn Spell-changer's... 🤣

I got one for my phone three years ago, and find it really useful! Trying to run wires through a wall chase at home, but getting blocked? You can easily see what's in the way. Can't see the model number on the back of the stacked washer/dryer? Easy peasy! One nice feature on the one I have is that it does not plug into the phone. Instead it has its own transmitter that sends via Bluetooth to the phone. That makes it easier to manipulate the camera without the screen moving all over the place. Plus, when I bought it my phone used a lightning plug, and the current uses a USB-C plug. With the bluetooth version, it still works fine. There are also models with attached screens, but I've never used one of those. Here's mine, but it is discontinued: https://a.co/d/00RnxN3L

After reading @aaronorange recent post about their missing furnace knockout, I was thinking that they would have benefited from a borescope to look for it. My daughter gave me one for Christmas last year and it’s been way more useful that I would have ever believed. I use it all the time, especially in the Oliver. I’ve found wire routing paths, looked in concealed spaces, found dropped screws. I even found a lost factory screw that was grinding away under the sewer pipe. The price for a horoscope varies from around $30 to hundreds of dollars. Vevor company has models for around $65 that are ideal. It’s one of those tools you don’t know you need until you have it. Cheers! Geoff

Yes, Then you truly have a missing "knockout" as Craig astutely noticed, and again as he recommended you should let OTT service know by opening a ticket, and reporting such. Be sure to add your OTT model year to your salutation as that helps all responding better understand what the issue may be. B~Out

[Disclaimer I have no association with, or financial involvement with Garmin] Just now, Garmin "Cyclops update for North America software update" available, not sure if new, or the update was not downloaded and applied earlier. The Garmin RV890, If you use this to plan trips, be aware that it is a “Real-Time” device. By that I mean if you are actively planning a trip during the winter (Nov-Feb, Mar) months, to and through Alaska, the NWT, Northern Quebec, Labrador, or other places where the roads are not passable during the winter months, the RV890 will not allow you to route through these areas during those winter months but may re-route you many ,000 or mi/km via another route. At least has been my experience. As you get closer to your departure date and the routes you want to take are no longer impassable due to snow, the RV890 may (if you choose shortest distance option) allow you to route the trip the way you want to go. i.e., If planning a trip from FL to AK, and you plan on leaving in May, you may not have passable roads in parts of AK until late May, so you may have to wait until closer to AK to get the RV890 to take the route you want. I believe this was done to prevent RV890 users from being routed through unsafe routes, or worse. I do not know if these “Garmin” updates which come from time to time would update “seasonal” route openings/closings. My guess is if a route is blocked by a major land/mud slide and it is obvious it is not going to be passable for some time, then that information would “hopefully” be on a Garmin update. I do know when we were travelling to Tumbler Ridge, BC in ’23 or ’24 while it was in the early stages of a BAD FIRE, the only thing suggesting “not passable” were the Mounties actively closing roads behind us as we made it to the town, then exiting out our “pre-planned” route away from the active fire. By the time we were back to an area where we could check our RV890 for routing, the route in had not changed. B~Out

Thanks to all that read and replied! Never found the missing knockout. Searched under the floor with my phone camera and inside the heat chamber. I went ahead and covered it with sheet metal and furnace metal tape, and all is back to normal. As stated earlier, all other ductwork is attached. To answer SNY SD UP, yes, I did modify the ducting to get better flow into the bathroom back a couple of years ago. Our ductwork is similar to yours, featuring one rear flex duct that turns 180° to head towards the front of the trailer, and another facing the front of the trailer. When you say galley side knockout, are you referring to the side facing forward to the galley/kitchen or to the center aisle, as in our case, having twin beds? Our missing knockout faces the center aisel. The photo was taken through the removable acsess port under curbside bed, Thanks again!

And when at a location that i can get a good iNet connection, i will check to see if any updates. I want to make sure that the "navigator" has most recent updates...

Hi Folks - we're hull #1673, 2026 LEII; we live in Maine. I'm reaching out to CGI to try to arrange ceramic coating while they are here; their large number of Olivers coated seems a great recommendation. Also wondering if anyone has any experience / insight on ceramic coating companies in Maine... any thoughts appreciated. Thanks!

Congratulations! We’ve got three left, MN, WI and MI. Not sure when we’ll be able to travel north but will probably hit all three on the same trip. Mike

Good idea - I do the same. I know that one of the "system" updates is for the Andriod part of the internal workings of the 890 (and 1090) - so, it must be fairly important. Bill

thank you Bill, I always check for updates before doing anything new on the RV890. One of the Checklist items before we leave is to check for updates. B~Out,

Have you done any mods to the duct work based upon "Snackchasers" post, if so i would look for a disconnect of ductwork from that port. Your Oliver is #1238 what year s/b on your signature? it would be interesting to see if the factory has changed the heater duct runs based upon Snackchasers changes... it appears as though Oliver has changed the open heater ports, so this one appears to be facing the galley, as you can see it from the galley access port. Back in 2020 (our model year) there was one open towards the rear, which must do a 180 to head towards the front of the trailer and one facing the front of the trailer. Our galley-side port still has its knock-out port intact. For me it was like a "Fun House" optical illusion for a minute until realized what i was seeing based upon my 2020 experience.... B~Out

Congrats! Alaska next.....