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Ditto. There have never been any Oliver dealers in Wisconsin or anywhere close to me. It is almost a draw between the closest out of state dealer and going to OTT in Tennessee. I am not complaining as I understood this when I bought the trailer. My solution: I found a reliable RV service center (and dealer of other brands) in the state that is also an authorized Truma service center. They work well with Oliver, Truma, Xantrex, etc. They did a couple of warranty repairs for me with no issues and Oliver providing reimbursement (Thank you Jason E.). If I need other repairs, I will go back there. At one time, we discussed having an informal Oliver service center directory. I understand there may be some implied endorsement issues with having that posted here but it sure would be handy (assuming everyone understood the ground rules).

All the comments are right on the money. But for a little more perspective of why you fell short of power, consider this: My guess is that you have about 400 Amp Hours with your 4 AGM batteries, which gives you about 200 AH usable power without going below 50%. You stated that your inverter stays on. A Xantrex Freedom inverter uses 72 AH per 24 hours of standby power (turned on without a load.) The Victron Multiplus is better at 40 AH a day with standard factory settings, and as low as 16 amp hours a day with power saving settings. These are both zero AH when turned off. The batteries are being supplemented with an assumed 320 watt solar system, which is under 30 AH a day in sunny conditions. You mentioned a coffee maker which burns a lot of power, typically about 20 AH to brew coffee, and more if your keeping it warm. That could cancel out the solar contribution. Now add in the AH values for whatever else you're using, and you can figure out how long you can last when boondocking. Hope that helps! Cheers, Geoff

Thanks, Geoff :)

Yes, in an OTT installed system, yet we keep our Victron system on always, 24x7x365! It’s ON now, as we sit on our deck with A/C set to 85F to keep things nice! Solar on/off has nothing to do with 110VAC outlets working, PERIOD! We could only guess, not knowing battery, inverter or any other particulars.

Inverter should be off unless using microwave, outlets, or watching TV

Reached out to the Texas dealer i purchased from in February 2025, he could not answer my question on what happened to Oliver dealerships in Texas and could not advise me on how to get any info on service needs for warranty issues. Also, Jason has not bothered to respond to my msg request of the same concerns. So much for quality of communication and support. Very disappointing in many ways.

Yep, familiar with them. Didn't know they were doing composite frames, though. I've been inside a couple of their trailers before, wasn't too impressed. Very small, but it looks like they've upped their game with a 22 footer now. Interesting. Surprised it's a single axle!

I recommend you leave your inverter off until you need to use 110, especially with AGM’s. As mentioned above, just having your inverter on and not being used draws down battery capacity. We rarely turn our inverter on.

The batteries are back to fully charged. They went to down to around 50%, when this happened, but back to 100% now.

Cortes Campers - Here is the link to their announcement

If your batteries are too low of voltage < 10.5v the 2000 watt inverter shuts down. the inverter should alarm on low voltage or give an E01 code. when you are in solar if the batteries drop too low the inverter will not turn on again until the batteries are charged When we boondock we leave the inverter off unless we need 110 as it draws down the batteries just being turned on. if you fully charge your batteries the inverter should begin working.

Interesting. What's the new company with the CF frames?

Wonderful information is flowing like Niagara Falls... I can barely swim and I see the 'mist' going over the edge, I went to the www.airforums.com out or curiosity. Checked: Running Gear- Axles, Brakes, Wheels & Tires. Went to Brakes and Brake Controllers: (The following is a cut and paste. A very nice job. I have a Bargman on the Oliver Elite II presently... just to update FYI.) Airstreams have identical issues, which does not surprise me. I have been lucky with mine buying new off the lot and checking it over before closing the deal. Although Airstream may sell hundreds every year and have thousands on the road. All operate the same kind of electrical brakes. Not good to hear. ************* My cut and paste********** Check your Trailer connector! Unless they have changed, for some reason Airstream uses Bargman (?) 7 pin connector on the trailer pig tail. These double contact ("duck-bill") connectors do not meet the SAE Standards and DO NOT play well with most of the OEM 7 pin sockets that meet the SAE Standard. It is such a problem that I believe all of the big 3 have put out bulletins over the years. Here is a bulletin that RAM put out --- https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilde...2BI1n%2Bn9n%0A I have that one as I drive a RAM 2500 Cummins. I switched my the connector on the end of the Airstream (2019) to a Pollak 12-706 and all messages about trailer brake disconnected and intermittent problems went away. These Pollak connectors are less than $8 on Amazon and it only takes a few minutes to cut the old one off and wire up the new one. The weird thing was this intermittent error didn't show up at first. However, once it started it progressively got worse. Its been over 2 years now since I changed the connector on the Airstream and have never had an issue since.

I have four AGM batteries and the inverter is always turned on when using the solar.

Your outlets will only work with shore power, a generator, or with an inverter turned on if you have one. More information is required. What batteries do you have

My 110 outlets are not working with my solar. Everything else works fine; lights, refrigerator, water pump, etc, but no 110 outlets. The outlets work while plugged into shore power or with the generator. This started when I was boondocking and did not notice my refrigerator was still set on DC, from traveling. When I went to make coffee in the morning, the electricity started struggling and eventually went out. I've checked all the possible fuses, breakers and GFCI plug, and all seem to be good. Is there a fuse for the inverter that is located somewhere else in the trailer, or could I have maybe fried the transfer switch? Thoughts? My trailer is an 2018 Elite II.

Thanks for correcting me. In his pic it looked like it was in the #4 fuse position to me.

15Amp is blue, and it's for the water pump. Pix of ours so you can read it in a 2019EII Hull 505 Notice that I crossed off the #5 AC breaker for the 12V Charger. When I upgraded to Lithium batteries I replaced our embedded 12V charger with a new combination 2000W Inverter/Charger . I disconnected the wiring from the 15A breaker for the embedded 12v charger to deactivate that circuit.

@BoondockingAirstream you may want to watch this before your tech shows up. How to troubleshoot electric brakes.

The Oliver’s fiberglass body is the majority of the 4900 lb dry weight. I’d conservatively guess the aluminum frame is around 2000 lbs, not including the running gear and hardware. So given their claim of 30% weight savings, it would save about 600 lbs. However, I’d question whether that 30% weight savings is compared to a conventional steel frame. If so, then you're looking at closer to 20% weight savings compared to aluminum, or 400 lbs . . . which is not significant IMO. If the frame costs more to make, and it’s a selling point, then just make sure that corners are not being cut elsewhere. Food for thought! Cheers, Geoff

Another Nevada owner that was very active on this forum was John Roemer @Raspy. He sold his Oliver for a Black Series, then moved on to other interesting travel trailers. He did a lot of mods, I forgot who bought his trailer, but it is still around.

I've never heard of a carbon fiber frame for RV's but given that thousands of road and mountain bikes are made from this material and given how they are ridden most likely a frame made of the same material would hold up well too. It's expensive to make, so one has to take that into consideration as well, meaning the price of admission for an RV made partly or whole with CC could become very pricey. Not that the Olivers are chump change, far from it.

Hi everyone... I am new to camping, and I am shopping for a trailer. There are so many out there, and a ton of options, and it is confusing me. I have found two models, but I'm not sure which to choose. The Oliver has a traditional aluminum frame. The other uses a new type of frame made of composites with carbon fiber, which they say is 30% lighter. Should I be concerned about this carbon fiber trailer? Do you think Oliver might move to this type of trailer?

According to the label on the fuse box door it's for the furnace. If you want to check your blue wire and white wire for continuity, just put a 12v test light between the blue and white wire connectors at the 7 pin and then activate your breakaway switch. According to the schematic, that should power the blue wire and the white wire should complete the circuit to ground to light the test light.

It appears you have brakes that work (from your break away switch test). But your 7 pin to brake connection isn't working. Hoping the RV Tech helps you out and gets it all set up correctly. As an aside to your brake issues....it's important whenever brake assemblies are new or changed to "burnish them" in before full trailer use. I learned when picking up Hull 505 that electric trailer brakes on new trailers must be BURNISHED or heated up to brake them in and seat them to the drums. When we started to pull away I grabbed the controller and squeezed...no brake action. I walked back into the service team and they showed me a page in the Dexter Service manual. They said I needed to burnish my brakes by driving on some back roads on my way to the first campground. I found that after about 30 applications my brakes where really starting to work well. The next morning as we pulled away I dropped the controller back to 5 out of 10 and I had working brakes on our trailer. This is NOT done by the factory that assembles the trailer. It must be done either by the DEALERSHIP selling the trailer....or more likely the OWNER. Hopefully you'll catch a break and things will all be fine after your RV Tech visit. To seat the brakes, Dexter and other manufacturers have a recommended brake in procedure. *See video&