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I vaguely remember needing to reset a parameter within the settings of the Xantrex to avoid that problem. I believe the LOW Battery Voltage setting was not set properly after an update to our system....and it would do the beeping thing. The settings are easily changed in a data table on your xantrex phone app. Your settings would be the column to the left of the red column below: LCBO Voltage can be set from 11.5-12.1 FURTHER INFO: Here's some data from the web: A beeping sound from a Xantrex inverter charger is an audible alarm indicating low battery voltage, an electrical overload, or internal overheating. The system uses the beep to protect the internal components and the connected battery bank from permanent damage. [1, 2, 3] Most Common Causes Low Battery Voltage: The battery bank has dropped below the low-voltage cutoff threshold (typically around 10.5V for 12V systems). This can happen if the batteries are drained, a battery cell is dead, or the charger is disabled. AC Output Overload: The continuous power draw from connected appliances exceeds the total wattage capacity of your Xantrex unit. This triggers a warning beep before the system shuts down to protect its circuits. Overheating (Thermal Shutdown): Poor ventilation, blocked cooling fans, high ambient air temperatures, or heavy prolonged loads can cause internal temperatures to spike. High Battery Voltage: An external charging source like an un-regulated solar controller or high-output vehicle alternator is pushing voltage above the upper safety limit (usually >15.5V). Bad Cable Connections: Loose, corroded, or undersized DC cables cause a sudden voltage drop across the connection terminals under load. The inverter reads this localized drop as a dead battery and triggers an alarm. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] Troubleshooting Action Steps Check the Digital Display: Look for error codes like E01/E05 (Low Voltage), E03/E06(Overload), or E04/E07 (Over-temperature) to pinpoint the exact failure type. Verify Voltage with a Multimeter: Test direct DC current across the battery terminals. If it reads under 12V, plug into shore power or run a generator to engage the battery charger. Shed Electrical Loads: Unplug high-draw appliances like microwaves, coffee makers, or hair dryers to see if the beeping stops. Inspect Physical Connections: Tighten all cable terminals. Clean off any green or white corrosion crust with a wire brush. Ensure the cooling fan spin freely and the air vents are completely clear. Perform a Hard Reset: Turn off the unit. Completely disconnect all sources of AC shore power and DC battery power for 5 to 10 minutes to reboot the internal microprocessors. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11] If you would like to pinpoint the issue further, please share: The exact model number of your Xantrex unit (e.g., Freedom HF, XC Pro, XPower). Any fault codes or lights flashing on the display screen. Whether you are currently plugged into shore power or running on battery power. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

2024 Elite II #1541 Good morning, Oliver owners. I’m reaching out to see if anyone has experienced something similar or might have an idea what caused the “beeping” issue we dealt with last night. Setup: Lithium Pro Package – 390AH Lithionics batteries 3000W Pro Inverter Batteries fully charged Connected to 30A shore power Progressive external surge protector plus the internal Oliver surge protection Around 11:30 PM, we woke up to a beeping sound but couldn’t immediately determine where it was coming from. We checked the CO2 detector, MaxxAir fan, and propane monitor — all appeared normal. The beeping would stop for 10–15 minutes and then start again. During one of the episodes, the Xantrex wall control showed a red light and was also beeping. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch the exact readings before the light went out and the beeping stopped again. The Xantrex app on my phone briefly displayed an alert, but it disappeared within seconds. I think it may have said something about high battery voltage, but I’m not certain. Here’s what I tried: Disconnected the external surge protector at the pedestal, thinking it might be the issue. Same results. Switched from the 30A connection to the 50A adapter connection. Beeping continued. Tried turning the batteries off, at which point I noticed the blue lights on the batteries were blinking. After that, the trailer power started cycling — lights, AC, and radio turning on and off intermittently?? I had assumed the trailer could still run directly from shore power with the batteries off, but that didn’t seem to be the case. Finally, I turned the batteries back on, left the trailer plugged into 50A shore power, and since then everything has been operating normally with no additional beeping. I’ll also post this on the Oliver forum for those not on Facebook, and I may give Oliver Service a call today. Any thoughts, similar experiences, or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your responses. I found a newer version of the installation instructions online. My installation instructions dated 09-24-2019 do not have the note on the drawing that the instructions dated 04-13-2021 have regarding what button to place forward. The old Ventline fan that I removed has a steel base. The butyl tape used to bed it had been built up under the front and rear of the base so as to conform to the roof curvature. Bill

issue resolved. We bought a Genuine Dometic Water Valve, it is now installed and working as designed.

Its the parent company, apparently. Affecting a bunch of good companies they've bought, including Reese and Tekonsha. Major RV Hitch/Towing Company Goes Bankrupt; DOJ Investigating - RV News https://share.google/kvLioMOy73cWpU6Z3

We did just that about 6 years ago. The butyl has held up just fine for us. Still loving that dome, and especially the light ring. Where the fan is located in an original Elite may not be as "curved" as the newer II's. I can't tell you, as I've not bern on the roof of a II. Modern butyl is pretty good stuff.

Tim - Please make you wish for a non- trailer (i.e. no trailers for sale or wanted) classified section here on the Forum known to Oliver. Might I suggest an email to Jason Essary and/or Scott Oliver. Why did you replace those latches if they were still in good shape? If I had that type of latch, I'd be all over your generous offer. Thanks a bunch for letting everyone know! Bill

Oliver mounted ours wrong, 90 degrees off, and it pops open on the highway. Follow the instructions.

The Tundra has plenty of torque and HP, so pulling is no issue. The limitations I experienced were in going down 6% grades or greater. It just simply feels way too squirrely for my taste. I also had many times where I felt like I was being blown around by passing 18 wheelers or gusts of wind. I got cut off on my last trip and had to lock op the breaks. The trailer tires were smoking and the momentum of the trailer felt like it was pushing the truck forward. The Tundra manual stated weight distribution required for trailers over 5k, I think the elite 2 with lithium ion batteries already exceeds that when dry. I’m pretty sure the Tundra was still within its payload capacity, but likely pretty much maxed out. The Tundra is a great truck, and definitely capable of towing the LE2. But for me personally it was way too stressful, and felt like there was little to no margin of safety. I can afford the new truck, so the price should be worth the better ride. We shall see, I’m taking it out for its first trip with the Oliver tomorrow. I’ll let you know if it lives up to my expectations.

@TimD This forum is not monitored by Oliver TT. You should make that recommendation to Oliver directly. Or maybe one of the monitrators can forward that one to OTT.

Hi all - Perhaps we need a 'free stuff' sub-forum 🙂 Just replaced the propane cover draw latches on our 2021 LE2. Accordingly I have two spares, in good used condition. I'm keeping one 'just in case'. The second one is available for the shipping cost. More info here: https://www.htfhardware.com//240-150-10702.html If you are interested PM me. Thanks Tim

Yeah, you noticed in my picture that I stacked an 8" Anderson block plus five 1" blocks for 13" total height. You want the height in the blocks so the jack only extends a few inches. These Barker jacks will extend 18" but I only want about half the length showing.

Do you believe this to be a measure of correctness? I wish OTT always installed accessories correctly in our hull, but their installers made several mistakes. When I first read "button toward the front" I also thought of the power button. But they show a sketch pointing at the release trigger with the wording, "position toward front of coach." If someone posts a different orientation, regardless of it being "installed at the factory" it would still be wrong. I thought the same thing for about 50 ms when I had the new flat fan sitting on the curved Oliver roof. Then I realized, one good rainstorm while highway towing and the butyl would blow out of the large front gap and you'd have rainwater all in the bathroom. Butyl works best for sealing thin gaps. You could 3D-print gaskets with a tall front and rear, if you have that capability. I wrote gaskets plural since the fan must be concave on the outside and convex inside. The plastic frame will curve in place, tightening it little-by-little patiently. I took the day to work ours slowly. A hot sunny day helps to soften the plastic.

By Pony Express do you mean Amazon? Are you sure it is a Dometic brand part. I'm with you in wanting to hear the 'click' like the original part. If not Dometic brand, time for another Amazon return and get the part from eTrailer, Camping World or some legit RV store. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dometic/DOM93FR.html A lot of hose clamps these days have 7mm screw heads.

The Dometic "Flush Valve Kit" arrived by pony express (3 days) and I installed it late last night. It is the proper part for our model of toilet. However, during re-assembly when I inserted it into the back of the toilet, it did not “Click” as mentioned in the Video or Forum comments. I pressed it in the best I could, but no “CLICK”, removed it and re-inserted the old one and “Click”… re-inserted new one, no "CLICK". I did however add the “second screw as was suppled”, so now I have (2) screws holding the “Flush Valve” in place. And what is with the worm gear clamps (existing & supplied), the heads are not 1/4 or 5/16's, sheeez but I did snug them up tight. This morning I will look for any subtle differences between the old and new Flush Valve. And I still have a very slight drip coming out of the back of the toilet where the “Flush Valve” inserts… I believe I have a work-around, in that I found out where I will re-locate Willis’s water dish. Maggie was not impressed. B~Out

Larger fridge/freezer is nice. Dry bath is nicer with a sink you can actually get your face/head over (as @jd1923 mentioned as a shortcoming in the Oliver). Always tradeoffs of course. Some tradeoffs are apparent (particularly regarding storage) and some are not. And of course, a brand-new company carries some risks as well. Not enough here for me to really consider switching even if I was in the market.

I am 6'3 and quite comfortable in the bed but I sleep on my side. The toilet area for me, however, it a bit cramped for my knees. Perhaps an elongated bowl would be better than the smallish round bowl that comes with it. Other than that, my LE2 will likely be with me for many years to come.

I am kind of surprised the Tundra gave you some issues since they don't require a WDH for trailers below 5k. Obviously, your LE2 could exceed that with whatever you load into it and also what is in your truck. The reason Toyota states you can get away from it is due to their active stability system offering sway control. Were you overloaded or just wanted the diesel with exhaust brake? Nice truck, by the way. I would buy one but have an aversion to spending more the $50k for a truck.

I use the jack stands as well. For everything. They are a bit less stable at max extension, but the way you have them work great and, like you said, the safest way to lift these trailers outside of a professional shop.

Yes Craig, As usual, terrific writeup on something I just take for granted. I am going to have to go in here to have a look at the state of the terminal screws. "Safety FIRST- Make sure you're not connected to street power and that your Inverter is OFF. To be really safe you may want to shut off batteries as well." I just replaced Batteries, and was moving the wires coming from within, to the back of the compartment, so i could work at getting the jumpers off, and had quite a good ARC... I confirmed the Solar panels were functioning as designed. B~OUT

I took it to mean that you place the power button forward, not the release button. That’s why I posted this question, to get responses from owners whose Olivers had the MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome installed at the factory. Also, I don’t intend to pull the flange down much to form to the roof curvature. I intend to build the butyl tape up some under the front and rear of the flange where it stands proud of the surface. Bill

Yep, that's what I did, per the instructions. It makes sense the button is forward, so that it clasps the fan up front where it takes wind when towing. Once you get to installation, the curved shape of the Oliver hulls makes it difficult! All exhaust fans are designed to be flush on a flat roof and ceiling. Torque down the screws gently, little-by-little, taking your time so the plastic frame will curve. Too bad Oliver doesn't have a small flat area for this fan in the design of their hull molds.

Two things I don't want. The Oliver bathroom is the most comfortable bathroom we've had in an RV. One exception: I wish the sink/vanity top came out further so that I could actually get my face over the sink (on my mod list). Sitting on the can is truly roomy! Our first RV was a Fleetwood Discovery Class-A. I had to have my right leg out in the hallway to take care of business. OMG, on a WIDE 39-ft Class A! 🤣 Now that we're comfortable in a 7-ft wide trailer, without slides, I would never again want to tow an 8-ft box. That's what this new entry is, just an 8-ft BOX. Sorry, I've towed too many. They take wind and they're awkward in lane changes and on backroads. You feel every semi-truck passing and need towing mirrors on the TV. Bottom-line, one will not replace our Oliver! I tow the Oliver like I'm not towing! IMO, one thing OTT could-a/should-a done from the start was to make the hull only a few inches longer, to allow room for two 80x30" mattresses without the radiused rear corners! For me at 6'2" this would add significant comfort in a minor change. They guy that sold us our Oliver is 6'5" go figure!

Can't live without them along with the LevelMatePRO! I always smile and snicker when I see the 5th-wheel and camper guys with their manual jacks, large 1/2" impacts in hand. 🤣

Tom, you are absolutely correct! 😎 Changing a tire or working any suspension maintenance like in this maintenance thread, only "the belt" is needed, no suspenders necessary! 🤣 I would wager the floor jack I purchased used 40 years ago is much more capable than what most of you use at home (see pic below). When friends come into my garage, a first comment usually is, "Wow, where did you get that?!" It was already decades old at the time, nicely rebuilt at a hydraulic service shop in Chicago. It's an 8-ton floor jack with a 6 ft reach, a pump handle that comes up to your chest with a release lever at that height. It also has a kick pump that's so cool, it gets you started or by itself can lift a lighter car with ease. 10 auto restoration projects, 40 brake jobs and more! This beast has always been appreciated. But I'm still using the Oliver lift jacks alone for everything Oliver. Tom mentioned the one exception which is axle replacement. Our Oliver hull was lifted by the stabilizer jacks. I used the floor jack to lift the axles and you can see a bottle jack that I needed once to get a stubborn leaf aligned to the shackle opening. Tools are a man's best friend, when the right tool is chosen for the task at hand. I have this bottle jack and a single jack stand in the TV toolbox, along with enough tools to do most emergency repairs to the TV on the road. Haven't needed them thank goodness, working a lot of preventive maintenance when home and being lucky! Like my belts to keep my jeans in place, never wore suspenders!"