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Thank you, Mike. Probably 50+ Forum Members will read this today. Where are all y’all’s on your Summer trips? Please show us your pictures! Where’ Ollie? 😂

Hello friends, have a situation that calls for your expert advice and knowledge. While camping at Stone Mountain Park near Atlanta this past week, we developed a drip from Truma a/c inside the cabin that we found disturbing. A slow drip from the knob that adjusts the front to rear airflow ( probably the low point) plagued us the last 3-4 days of our trip. Now, Atlanta in July is not the most hospitable place on the map with temps in the upper 90’s and humidity way above normal human levels, but after having factory service earlier this Spring, we figured all would be well. We were near level in our camping spot and very shady however,I did not see a lot of condensation dripping from our condensate hoses at the rear corners of the camper. I did notice some condensation running down the back of the camper so, does this point to a clogged drain hose? Is this something I can fix maybe by blowing air up the drain hose? Should I seek factory help? Should I stay outa Georgia in July? As always your knowledge and response is most coveted Thanks in advance.

FINALLY found a weekend to install my Chill Cube and I am not disappointed. It is very quiet, adds some headroom due to it’s sleek air handler and cools the trailer quickly. My experience with it so far is limited to testing to make sure I did everything right. With an outside temp of 101, an interior temp of 95 the Cube was able to drop the inside temp 20 degrees in 45 minutes. Unfortunately, I had to head back home before I was able to explore some of the other features or see how long it would take to reach the 76 degree set point. Regarding sound level, my Cube on low, sounds about the same as my refrigerator at home. Just a gentle background hum. My wife and I used to play white noise through the stereo system at night in an effort to mask the sound of the Dometic freight train over our heads. No more. I’m anxious to take the camper out to see how it does in the real world but we don’t have any trips planned in the near future.

Agree, Beautiful Shot!

That’s a frame worthy shot!

Thanks, @Snackchaser. I'll check those parameters.

@Rolind, Thanks for the info. I can't run the AC off our 260AH battery bank, but I have a small space heater that may do the trick. Thanks!

Hey! I'm pretty sure all the Lithionics 130 amp batteries have the "internal BMS" without that reset function. That procedure is for batteries with a "external BMS" and it won't reset the SOC as described, although the full charge part is the best fix for the internal BMS too. Mine sometimes takes a while for that last 1% from 99% to 100%. Also make sure the charge parameters are right. I assume you are charging from shore power with a Xantrex inverter/charger, so look at the Xantrex app. and check/set the absorption charge volts to 14.4 and float to 13.4. I have mine set a little hot at 14.5 and 13.5 and have never had any drift in 4 years... not recommending -- just sayin!. Cheers! Geoff

I have found that often a “full” discharge to the shutoff is not necessary to reset the state of charge. Usually discharge to 70-80% will do it once you charge the batteries back to 100% I do however sometimes discharge my batteries to shutoff, usually while camping on shore power in the summer. I shut off shore power and run the air conditioning. Sometimes when I get very close to the shutoff SOC, the inverter will disconnect and I will have to complete the discharge using the lights or other non loads. The switch on the top of the battery is the switch they are referring to.

Welcome to the owner fourm! The knowledge base here is amazing. I live in Colorado and recognize your photo - pretty sure that's one of the campgrounds in the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area. Guessing that is Ruby Mountain CC or maybe Railroad Bridge CC ?? So many great places to take your Oliver here in the Centennial state!

Makes me thankful we went with the composting toilet! 🙂

Hey all, I am 2 years into our Ollie ownership and have yet to calibrate the SOC (State of Charge) for our batteries (12V, 130A Lithionics). It is clear that the SOC displayed in the app, and the actual SOC are out of sync, so I am planning to calibrate tomorrow. The only question I have is that in the Lithionics document (attached), number 5 says "As time goes on observe the SOC value going down until eventually the BMS will reach the NeverDie reserve mark and turns off the power. Turn off your loads and press the BMS On/Off/Reset button to wake up the BMS." Is the On/Off/Reset button referred to simply the power button on the top of the battery? I assume so since the batteries have an internal BMS. Also, do you have a preferred (quick) method for draining the batteries from their full charge to the cutoff? Thanks in advance! FAQ What is SOC Drift RevA.pdf

Welcome to life with your Oliver and as part of our great community on The Forum! 😎

We picked up our trailer at 11:30a and were at Great Sand Dunes National Park by 7p. It was a whirlwind, and for the first time ever we saw another Oliver at the same place We head out again this weekend for more Colorado adventures. Actually spent the past month getting better acquainted with our “Oscar.” Art and Beth

Actual usage data to follow - Wow, we love our Chill Cube (and inverter/battery and DC-DC charger setup)! We left yesterday for a short trip to Walnut Canyon, just east of Flagstaff. With batteries fully charged overnight, I unplugged in the morning, packed the truck, and set the Chill Cube temp down to 73. I did so because we had pickleball from 2-4 PM, the Oliver with us ready, and our dog Charley would be in the Oliver while we played in the heat of the afternoon. We stopped for fuel and a snack (cabin nicely cool) and didn't make it to our boondocking location because of the very heavy monsoon rains in Flagstaff. We spent the night at Cracker Barrel, LOL! 🤣 (Can't drive down FS dirt roads in these rains as it's getting dark!) Checked battery SOC at 7 PM and it was 98%! We used net 20 Ah all day! Sun early in the day, cloudy later. We always have our Orion 50A DC-DC charger connected when towing. I figure it added approx 90 Ah while towing. So the Chill cube cooled all day using only 120 Ah, outside temps mid-80s. BTW, absorption fridge on DC all day too so this number could be less. The heavy rains made the cabin quite humid at 68% RH. Had our first experience with a leaky window (towing 70 MPH through monsoon rains). Thankfully only the dinette window leaked, beds dry. I switched the Chill Cube to DRY mode. Dog water bowl also spilled while towing. It rained until 10 PM while the Chill Cube dropped RH about 15% in the next couple hours, making it very comfortable to sleep. The DRY mode also made the cabin COLD overnight as it kept drying/cooling several degrees under the set temp (thermostat control issues common with many A/C models). Turned it off when I woke middle of the night. Cooked indoors powering the broiler in the Emeril. We'll be away 4 overnights and should be able to run the A/C on battery every afternoon into the evenings! 😎

It's quite a different idea to build in what is designed as a portable power station! I would suggest an inverter that is made to be built-in (like the Victron MP2), one that has terminals that can be hardwired vs. plugging in all your connections that may needed to be checked often after towing the trailer. It's also more expensive, this item and the plugs alone will cost 100s! It's certainly original, crazy IMHO, but at the same time, I would love to see your implementation. I've been through all this, and I'm very happy to help with wiring questions! Now to answer this question... You will not find a wiring diagram to show all the wires to the battery bay. Bill noted, his wiring diagram does not even show the shore power connections to the EMS! First thing I did was to empty the battery bay, disconnect all the wiring, and except for the two main B+ and B- cables, fish all the smaller wires back into the basement of the Oliver (see my before and after pictures of the battery bay). It makes a world of difference! I also removed the tray since it weighs 30 LBS and I wanted all the room to house 900 Ah of LiFePO4 batteries The next picture (look bottom right) shows the 8 AWG wires that I removed from the battery bay. Basically you should find two red B+ wires. One of these connected to the 12VDC fuse panel and the other to the solar charger, plus the two corresponding B- wires to the ground bus. Additional lighter gauge wires will likely power a shunt or other. You just need to remove the wires, follow to the load and rewire internally. Your solar charger will be Zamp or something else, not the Blue Sky SC as shown in our 10-year-old hull. I added 400A bus bars and removed all the breakers and fuses out from underneath the streetside bed. These are 8mm thick pure copper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D59Z9S7W/ All of our switching is now under the rear dinette seat. Notice in this next picture, the breaker to the solar is moved forward as are all the cables shown in the picture above. The 3 jack fuses are also moved forward (the wires started there anyway). There were some low power needs in the rear, so I took the light duty OEM bus, cut it in half to make it a +/- bus which is also fused under the dinette. There are many things to think about in an extensive inverter/LiFePO4 upgrade! 😎

thanks I will compare to my trailer tomorrow (Hull#466).

Heck I just realized that mine is a 2018 trailer. I apologize for my mistake. Anyway, does this help any? Bill

There is 8 or more different size wires leaving or going into the battery compartment on my Oliver. I need to id what they go to.

I fairness, we moved down from Chicago/NW Indiana 😉 We're picking up in Dec, coincides with an annual trip to visit family in Nashville, so works logistically 🙂

I have 2019 (correction 2018🤪) hull 313. What drawing do you want? None of the electrical schematics in my manual show either of the shore power outlets.

I am replacing original Gel batteries with a LFP battery. This is just the start of a major boon docking upgrade. First 2 parts are: 1) Pecron F5000LFP This will upgrade our inverter to 7200 watt. Battery capacity of 5120 watt hours at 48 volts. It has 2 solar charge controllers 3200watt each. Able to recharge with AC at 15amp or 30amp. It has a XT60 DC output port with adjustable voltage 12 - 40 volts which I will use to keep a 100 Amp Hour LFP 12 volt charged. 2) Li Time 12.8V 100Ah slim Edition Both these new battery units are self heating and bluetooth accessible. Both of these will fit on the original slide out tray in the Oliver battery compartment. Plan is to disable the converter in the Oliver. Wire the new LFP 12v battery to a buss bar, which will also have the original Oliver Solar charge controller, the lead to the 12v side of the Oliver fuse box, and possibly the original 2000watt inverter connected. I plan to tap into the wire harness that goes to the shore power outlet on the curb side with a 30amp pig tail routed to the battery compartment. This I will be able to plug into the Pecron power station's 30amp receptacle.

For those who have been there, how are the bugs in May? We're planning to attend the MOO 2 rally in Duluth mid-May. Thanks, Tony

@Boudicca908 I just noticed something else in the picture above. Notice the shackle dropped and is in the wrong position. After you left here and drove over a step or bump in the road, it likely gave a big thump and reset itself. If it is still dropped this way, driving on and angle slowly over a curb, should return it to correct position. Or it may have reset itself after we mounted the rims and lowered the hull. This happened to my old springs too. When you upgrade to Alcan Springs it won't ever do that again. They are too stiff to allow the axle to drop this way. See my Alcan picture for correct shackle orientation.