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Aubrey said: "I use the 510 system since it was the only one available at the time. About two weeks later, when Pete bought his, TST had introduced the 507 system and I believe that is what Pete got." AACCKK!!!! This is Pete, NOT Aubrey . . . I intended to copy and reply to his comment but entered the "Edit " mode instead. Mybad!!! My apologies Aubrey, you know, of course, your original comment was brilliant, and on target, as usual. Oh, well (sigh) as Forest Gump said; "IT" happens. Yep, I got the new and improved (at that time) 507 that allows me to easily replace the batteries. Be sure you ask them for some extra tiny rubber o-rings. You are likely to break the old one as you remove the battery. I carry a small zip lock bag with a dozen or so for future use. Also, I prefer to use the suction cup mounted monitor and attached it to the lower left corner of my windshield, well out of the way, but easy to read. I always balance my tires with the sensor mounted. They are very easy to remove with the special tool provided. I do not use the pass through type sensors. Instead I remove it with the tool if any pressure addition or deletion is required due to a large swing in temperature or altitude. An easy way to test the warning system is to turn the system on, check the pressure on the monitor, and use the special tool to take the sensor off the valve stem. The sensor senses the pressure drop and alerts the monitor of the event which then emits the warning alarm which is easily heard (unless you're a deaf F-15 pilot) from the trailer tire position if your TV window is down. I only have two sensors which I put on The Wonder Egg and rely on the Tacoma's internal TPMS system for truck tire issues.

I, in fact, am a "hold out" for the composting toilet option but in the sense that I have spoken directly with Oliver about this and I want the black water tank to be converted to a clean water tank, so that there is that much added capacity. I was told it may take quite some time before the engineers were able to accomplish that and get the proper certification. My answer was to tell them I can be very patient as they work on it, especially since my present financial situation doesn't allow for freeing up of sufficient funds for the purchase of a new Ollie at this time. I'm anticipating it will be after the first of the year for them to have a solution. That said, I see nothing but advantages to a composting toilet for those who truly are dedicated boondockers, dry campers so to speak.

The Flying Sea Turtle ... Hull # 145 has a Natures Head composting toilet. There is a lot of information out there on composting toilets for RV's, so I won't go into a lot of detail about CT's in general. You might want to google "Gone with the Wynns" and "Composting Toilet" for videos that will provide a lot of good information. So let me give you my thoughts about the CT and the Oliver Trailer. In our case the LE2. Using - There is a bit of a learning curve in using a CT in the Ollie. The unit is a bit tall, so you have to be careful getting on and off in the small bathroom. The main thing you want to ensure is that you COMPLETELY SEPARATE solids and liquids. See the video and other sources for info on this. Loading & Dumping - IMHO... easier than dealing with a black tank dump on the road. For two people on trips less that a few weeks, you wont have to dump and re-charge the solids area. You can leave that till you get home and then LEAVE IT longer until the next trip. The longer it composts the less offensive the dumping job is. In any case, when changing out, I remove the top portion of the toilet and put it in a medium size (the white ones) garbage bag to take it out of the ollie. I do the same with the bottom portion but use a contractor bag for that. This prevents any mess inside the trailer. Then i turn the bottom portion over and dump the contents into the bag and give it a few whacks to dis jar any loose material. The liquids bucket is easy to dump and urine is sterile, so you can dump it just about anywhere. There is some smell when dumping but not when the unit is assembled. Re-charging - Very simple. Put another white garbage bag into a bucket and put the Sphagnum peat moss in and add water until it is the consistency of dirt. Not too moist or too dry. Then put it back in the base. Not a hard job and not offensive. Oliver Configuration - When we got this option we made sure that Oliver plumbed the black tank and everything else as if it were the standard RV toilet. That way if we or anyone else wanted to revert to a black tank set up, it is easy. Good for re-sale when the time comes. I have read in the other thread that Oliver refuses to not plumb a black tank in and the reason is that it would be near impossible to convert to a standard toilet if it were not there. I know many people have differing opinions, but for me this is my preference. As for water conservation.... I would imagine it would conserve more that a standard RV toilet. Probably more important to those spending a lot of time out west. Happy to answer any other questions, but please limit to the CT and the Oliver. Safe Travels, Scotty

Bill, when we park at home, I have the same setup as you do. We plug our Furrion cord provided by Oliver into a 30 amp/110V to 15 amp/110V adapter and that plugs into a standard 15 amp/110V home receptacle. When plugged in this way, the blue LED light on my Furrion plug does indeed come on, as should yours. You should check your house plug for irregularities, ie. open ground, cross polarity, etc.. There are simple, inexpensive plug in testers that will do this for you: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-RT100-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B005GYBFA4/ref=zg_bs_14244461_13 If all is well there, then check your adapter while plugged in to the house receptacle in the same way. If these both check OK, then you may have a faulty Furrion cord- it could be just a bad LED(s). My guess is that it's the Furrion cord as I think if there was an issue with your power source as mentioned above, then the red LED should be lit up. That's my understanding of it at least. Dave

Here is the website I found that compares several manufacturers of TPMS Systems. There are probably other comparisons out there but this site seems to focus on systems for the RV Industry. Also YouTube has several customers and manufacturers reviews with installation instructions. Several have some slick features such as turning itself off if no motion is defected (to greatly extend battery life and not having to remove the battery for storage), large screen displays with constant monitoring/reporting, extended warranties and small size so they do not extend beyond the hub of the wheel to be broken off when getting too close to a curb, and locks to prevent theft. http://www.fiveina5th.com/landing/top-4-tpms-systems-comparison/?gclid=CMe-ndvEpM4CFdgQgQodnTkJWw Thank you coy

Two suggestions for those adding a TPMS: 1. Be sure to use rigid valve stems (the kind that are held in place by a hex nut). The flexible ones will work for a while, but will fail at the most inopportune time/location. 2. Have your wheels balanced with the sensors installed, especially on your tow vehicle. Do not ask how I know these things.