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We picked up our camper on Friday of last week (March 19th 2021), and after a fairly long day of questions, tutorials, etc we set out on the Natchez Trace for our first night at Davey Crockett, followed by heading back north to where we are now, and will stay until Easter. Thanks to everyone who has answered my questions over the past year or so. Every one of your answers has helped my wife and I (and our dog valentine) get to this point and we love our camper so far.

The seed was planted for this furnace mod when we grabbed a canceled reservation three weeks out at a Minnesota State Park. This reservation was mid October and when the date arrived the weather forecast had changed for the worse. We stayed for only two of the three days and we received our first snow of the season, 6 inches of wet snow. We had a non electric site and my batteries were having trouble making it through the night and I was concerned about the water freezing in the Oliver. I have already addressed switching to lithium batteries and posted about it on Oliver Forum. Now I want to share with you what I have done to relieve my worries about water freeze ups in the Oliver, provided that I have a functioning furnace. I first tried to identify the weak spots and came up with the following. Boondocking Inlet Outside Wash Station Fresh Tank Fill Inlet City Water Inlet Black Tank Flush Port Toilet Water Supply Line Hot & Cold Lines Crossing Back Of Oliver The Oliver has all of it's heat ducts run on the curbside which protect the kitchen and the bathroom faucets from freezing. My plan is to run a 2" ducting along the back to the street side and terminating in to the trough that the water lines run in for the city water inlet, fresh tank fill inlet and outside faucet. This trough also has the check valves for those two inlets and has the floor of the exterior storage compartment covering over the top of it. To get at the trough you will have to remove the back wall of the storage compartment and flip the mat back that covers the floor. This exposes the water lines that come across the back of the trailer and drop into that trough. There is a wall that separates the furnace compartment from storage and extends past the wall you just removed. It has a opening for the water lines and it is large enough to run the 2" duct through it and on top of the water lines across the back and into the trough. Now you can flip the mat back down and they are long enough to cover the water lines and the newly installed 2" duct, then the wall is put back in place. On the connection to the furnace I removed the back of the heat exchanger. There is one hard to get at screw on the bottom but the rest are easily accessible. I made two holes, a 2" and a 4" in that back plate. I could not find a 2" starter collar locally so I bought two 4" and removed the rivets on one of them and formed a two inch collar, cut to length and re-rivet. I then installed the 2" and 4" starter collars to the heat exchanger back panel and then the panel to the furnace. I then hooked up the 2" duct to the furnace. Looking in to the access hole under the street side bed you are able to see where the water lines come up and out of the trough and to the valve of the out side wash station. When the furnace fan is running it will blow out a lit Bic Lighter held in that area. So we're protecting water lines, the check valves and dumping warm air underneath the outside wash station valve. Now back at the furnace I attach a 4" heavy duty aluminum foil duct to the newly installed starter collar. It is routed forward a short distance until it can be routed across the basement to the street side and then fed between the hot and cold water lines that go to the outside wash station valve. At this point I need to use a 4" coupler that is 6" long to attach the next 8' piece of 4" duct. I use the 6" long coupler so I can add holes if I need to flood a area with heat, this particular coupler did not need to. I then routed the duct from the wash station valve along the outer wall and over the wheel well, make the corner by the battery compartment and then once getting past the wheel well go down and under battery compartment. Up in that corner I attach a adhesive base 3/4" cable anchor so I can loop a 20" releasable tie strap through it and around the 4" duct holding it up and out of the way. A second 20" tie strap is used were the duct heads down under the battery compartment, it utilizes the loop that anchors the 4/0 cable coming out of the battery compartment. Next I prep another 6" long 4" coupler by adding a metal mounting bracket. It is bolted to the coupler using two 10-24 machine screws that go through the bracket the coupler wall and then a backing plate that has tapped holes. This coupler I will add a1" hole that will be pointed up to flood heat at the battery compartment. The mounting bracket will be utilizing the upper bolt of the support leg for the battery compartment. This keeps the duct up and away from the inverter and electrical components and positions it to flood heat up against the bottom of the battery compartment. The next length of 4" duct is clamped to that coupler and routed up from under the battery compartment over to and along the wheel well. It is held by two 20" tie straps similar to the other side. Because I want to run the heat duct under the foot space of the dinette I need to transition to 2" duct. There is access via the same trough that I utilized in the back of the trailer, but at the front there is more room and I am able to pull the 2" ducting through. From there it continues toward the front until it reaches the black tank flush inlet where it then follows that pipe back along the black tank and terminates by the water supply line for the toilet. At the transition point I add two more short pieces of 2" duct and route them down to where the main black tank drain pipe goes under the dinette foot space, they are terminated on either side of that pipe. There was not enough room to run the 2" duct but enough to force air along either side. At the transition from 4" to the three 2" ducts I simply inserted the three 2" into the end of the 4" and used aluminum foil duct tape to seal the transition. I also want to mention that I used the aluminum foil duct tape to reinforce the ends of every 4" duct by wrapping outside and inside before clamping. That should cover the install, now lets talk about the results of the test in subzero weather. I rounded up seven digital thermometers and put them in the areas I was concerned about. Was placed just inside the empty rear storage compartment. Was placed on top of the batteries and a piece of acoustical insulation that was for large generator enclosure, it was 1-1/2" thick and 19" square. This was squeezed in the opening before the door was closed. Was placed in the rear basement curbside next to boondocking inlet. Was placed in the rear basement street side below the outside wash station valve. Was placed on the floor of the closet with the door left closed. Was placed on the lower shelf in the vanity in the bathroom with the door left closed. Was placed in front basement street side next to the black tank flush port line. I moved it out of the heated shed at 1:00 pm on Sunday 2-7-21. I moved it back in at 3:00 pm on Tuesday 2-9-21. The furnace was cycling off and on at -4 ' but I noticed at -8' and colder it ran continuous. I have the Truma water heater and that was also turned on. I checked propane consumption by putting on two 20 pound tanks that I had weighed and left them in place for 12 hours. It was -12' when I put them on and -2' when I took them off. Because of the subzero temperature the propane was not gasifying very well and the regulator automatically changed from the primary to the reserve after only consuming 2.353 gallons. The total consumed out of both tanks in 12 hours was 3.294 gallons, so that would be .274 gallons in one hour. My Victron BMV-712 was telling me that I had depleted my 400 Ah Battle Born batteries to 47% and at rate of use I had two days and nine hours left. I thought I would comment on a couple of things I like about the outcome of the project. The bathroom was comfy warm and the wall next to the bed was not icy cold. I am not planing to take up subzero camping but it does gives me a benchmark to go off of for any situation that I might run in to. If you have any suggestions or see something that is of concern please let me know. Paul

My son is a computer game programmer and he recently got into 3D printing. Here is what arrived for Christmas...... It was a total surprise. The $5 bill is for scale. The hull is exactly 6” long, the LE2 hull is 18’, so this makes the model 1:32 scale. There are lots of truck models in this size, my Land Cruiser 200 would be 5.9” long at this scale. ..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land-Cruiser-4x4-1-32-Scale-200-VX-Wagon-SUV-Diecast-Model-Mini-4wd-Car-/362667098231 And this is what the model looked like before final trim “processing”, I have NO clue how that is done. He was not able to find an actual data file online, he did this completely from scratch using photos. He is willing to share the print file if somebody wants to try this at home. He is thinking about dividing the build into layers, so you could print the tires, frame and hull in different colors and then join them.... but it would not be too difficult to prime and paint the all white version. And no, he does not want to start mass producing these. That would be something for the much rumored, never seen Ollie Store in Hohenwald. Happy Holidays. John Davies Spokane WA EDIT: FILES AND BASIC 3D PRINT INSTRUCTIONS. NO GUARANTEES, THIS IS NOT PLUG AND PLAY EASY. If you cannot download these files directly from this thread, let me know and I will try another method. Thanks to my son Ian! oliver legacy elite 2 trailer davies.stl oliver legacy elite 2 trailer davies.3mf “Provided as is - this shouldn't be too hard of a print, but you'll probably want to have a basic handle on printing. The print specifics below are what I used to print it. They're not required, but might serve as a starting point. Print specifics: Printer: Original Prusa i3 MK3S, 0.4mm nozzle Slicer: PrusaSlicer 2.2 Filament: 1.75mm Prusament PLA (stock profile in PrusaSlicer) Perimeters: 3 Layer Height: 0.1mm Infill: Gyroid, 5% Supports: On Raft: 2 layers (not necessary, just makes it a bit easier to get the tires round) Model print scale: 850% (~200mm x 66mm x 82mm) Total filament (including supports): 143g/48m If you slice it yourself, you'll probably want to put support blockers in the wheel wells - cleaning supports out of there is a pain. This will require some postprocessing - mostly just removing supports from small gaps. If your printer isn't precise enough, or if you're printing with a larger layer height, you may want to do some sanding to get the curves more fluid.” I. D.

Many of you know that this has been a long, drawn out project. I think I started talking about it to a few people at the 2019 rally - so it's been well over a year in the making, almost two. Not that it was particularly difficult (though certainly a more major mod), but because of laziness and indecision on all the components it ended up being a start and stop project, with months sometimes between fits of activity. And then it snowballed into a complete plumbing overhaul, which was unnecessary - but then that's how the trailer got its name, after all. I'll post about all the plumbing stuff later, but since there have been a few recent posts about shower and bath mods, I figured I'd go ahead and toss this one into the mix. This project started for a few reasons. One, I've always found the bath sink to be mostly useless. It's fine for washing hands, but for most anything else, you've got to crane your neck around with the front wall curving in to hit your head. And trying to use a tiny little sink for washing your face just leaves water everywhere. So we found that were using the kitchen sink almost exclusively. That was fine - no big deal - but with the bigger sink, I was getting tired of wasting water cleaning toothpaste residue out of the sink, and it seemed silly to have a bath sink that got little to no use. The second reason for the upgrade is that after we redid the kitchen sink, the bath sink just looked sad. In addition to functionality, the bath needed some sexy. So the obvious solution was a vessel sink of some sort. Since a vessel sink sits on top of the counter, I'd have much more leeway in size and placement. I could pull it forward as much as I wanted, plus it had the added benefit of raising the sink to a more comfortable height for us. Some experimentation with kitchen bowls of different sized showed that I could get a fairly generous sink that didn't take up too much shower space. I settled on something in the 11" to 12" range; which proved to be a little difficult to source, especially after deciding on the material. I had bookmarks for dozens of sinks of different materials, but I couldn't find one that I really liked. I almost picked a glass one off Amazon, but in the end I thought that was going to be too heavy. What I really wanted - since I had already swapped out almost all of the brushed chrome fixtures in the bath for polished - was a simple polished stainless sink. There were a few out there, but nothing in the right size, nor at a reasonable price. So the project bogged down a bit at that point; but I was confident that I'd find something eventually, and so I went ahead and ordered a new vanity top from Oliver, without any cutouts for the sink or faucet. I’m glad I did, since Oliver has apparently now stopped offering our countertop color And sure enough, a few months later I came across a discontinued sink on Overstock.com that was exactly right. 11.25", polished inside and out. It's the Acquaio sink from WS Bath, if you can find one. I know that other sizes are still available. It was still pricy even on discount, but by that point I didn't care. To make up for the splurge, I got a faucet from Ikea, which is actually pretty nice. The colors from chrome to stainless don't exactly match, but they're close enough and it doesn't bother me. Since I was swapping out the faucet, I needed to find a separate shower valve, which was another lengthy quest. I thought at first that I'd put one to the right of the bath caddy, like @mountainoliver has in his trailer. But most everything I found was just a bit too big to fit (I didn't know about mountainoliver's mod and the mixer valve he used until later). Then I found the Grohe Grohtherm valve, which was interesting in a couple of respects - it didn't recess into the vanity at all (which eliminated a potential issue with the plumbing), it matched the Grohe faucet that I had already installed in the kitchen, and since it was linear, I thought that it might actually fit in the space above the caddy, between it and the vanity top. And it did fit, but looked squished in place, plus I didn't think until trying to place both it and the sink that the the sink drain and trap was going to be difficult to work the plumbing around. Plus putting it there meant that the shower hose was going to be strung across the vanity and generally look bad and be in the way. The problem with this realization was that I'd ordered the valve and the sink before one of my 3-month breaks in the project and now neither was returnable - so I had to make it work. This meant that the shower valve was going on the closet wall. I also realized during the test fitting that when I pulled the sink forward, the drain trap was going to hit the top of the bath caddy, meaning that I couldn't get it far enough forward to work. Small disaster. But I realized though that the bath caddy wasn't symmetrical, and if I turned it upside down, everything fit. I'd lose the flat shelf on the bottom, but we only use the caddy to hold the bath mat, so not a problem. Small problem with the water pump switch placement, though, since it would be on the bottom - but a quick email to Oliver had a new caddy that hadn’t been drilled for the switch on the way. At that point, all the pieces were here, all the logistics worked out, and I was ready to go. Time for another couple months off while I built up the courage to drill through the closet wall. Then finally... First step was to remove the existing vanity top, which is possibly one of the most firmly attached things in the trailer. It's glued in place, so the only way I could find to get it off without completely destroying the vanity was to cut through the joint with an oscillating saw. That's a slow, tiring, dusty endeavor; and it generates a great deal of heat, so you've got to work in spurts to keep the fiberglass resin from burning - which is fine really, since working through the caddy access, your shoulders will welcome the rest. I had to do a tiny bit of trimming on the new top to get it to fit as snuggly as the old one; and once in place, I sealed it with silicone like the original. Top off, new drain lines in place, and I decided to attach the new top with industrial velcro to make it easier to remove in the future (works well). Next, shower lines teed off the existing plumbing, line to the nonexistent toilet removed, and some insulation added to both the plumbing lines and the outside wall behind the vanity. (I have a circulating pump on the hot water, hence the extra line.) I also glued a small PVC block to the back side of the vanity wall to tie down the water lines and prevent them from vibrating too much. And as always, cleaned out as much fiberglass dust as possible, cleaned up and wrapped wiring, etc. The access port on the closet side is something that Oliver gave me in the original build. The sink valves and drain trap are accessible from that port, and since I used velcro for the top, I have the option now of cutting the silicone on the top and pulling that off for access, in addition to taking out the caddy. New plumbing in the closet for the shower. I drilled out a short piece of aluminum as a backing plate for the shower valve. The plumbing is protected somewhat in the closet by the ABS vent, and we really don't keep much in there that could bump around and damage the plumbing. But a few layers of aluminum tape should help protect the insulation from getting beat up and gives a bit of a spaceship vibe. The valve is supposed to stand out from the wall about an inch or so, but I decided to recess it so that it attaches flush and as out of the way as possible. I caulked around the valve and it ended up making a nice little shelf for a razor, and I placed it low enough that my wife can use it to prop a foot while shaving her legs. You can also hang a bar of soap on one of the handles to drip dry. The faucet has a neat feature with stops on both valves, which can be custom set to whatever temperature and flow you prefer. The little buttons on the handles allow you to go past the stops when you want. And that's really it. Installing the sink and faucet is just drilling two holes and following the directions. The only change I made is that the sink came with a short stainless ring to mount between the sink and counter, but I didn't like the look and so just used one of the black rubber gaskets that was inside the ring. That way the sink looks like it’s sitting right on the counter instead of a pedestal. We tested everything out on our last trip and functionally, it all works as expected. The sink isn't in the way at all while showering, and really is so much more usable. Plus I think it looks great. The shower functions just as nicely, with the valve not being obtrusive. I added a second holder for the shower head up high, which works better for me, though my wife prefers the original one. I still need to swap that one out, since I think it's the only bit of brushed chrome left in the trailer. I added the same backsplash material that a few other owners have recommended. I wanted to order a new, wider mirror; but the original one is glued on and so I didn’t want to go through the trouble of trying to get it off. I suppose I could just place one on top of the other, so maybe that’ll be a future project. Glamor shots -

Here'a a fun project that provides you a backup 12v Pump for your Ollie. I bought a spare 12V Shurflo water pump to carry with me on our coming long long adventures around the US. I decided to build it into a water transfer pump that I could use for multiple uses and still have a backup pump. Some ways I can use this transfer pump: Transfer fresh water from portable tanks and bladders directly through the Oliver fresh tank port. (This is without using the boondocking port.) Use as a pusher pump for a bladder to the street side water port on the Oliver Use around the campsite as a portable pump for wash stations etc. Use as a backup pump should my main pump fail. Electrical Consideration: I designed this so it can hook it directly to the Zamp Solar Port on the side of the trailer as the 12V source. That SAE Zamp port has direct connection to the batteries in the Oliver. I wanted to make sure to create a fused connection, and also be sure to wire it to match the Polarity on the Zamp port. I put a matching ZAMP port on the pump case, and build the fused connection cable out of a pair of fused SAE solar cables. The fuze is closest to the Oliver's ZAMP port for safety. (Zamp also sells an excellent "replacement" cable that could be used for the project.) ZAMP Solar Port Polarity is reversed from typical SAE Connectors: Zamp wires their solar ports in a way that the + lead on the solar cable coming from the solar array is into the plastic covered end of the cable. (That's opposite normal SAE use. They do this to protect users from plugging into the solar array and touching the male exposed connector.) Here's a basic material list (if you want specific part numbers of connectors etc. PM me on the forum.) I bought all of the material from the combination of Ace Hardware, Harbor Freight and Amazon. Total cost $190.73 1) Case: $39.00 Apache 3800 Transit Case - : Harbor Freight ( Interior Dim: 14 7/8"x10 5/8" x 6 1/8") Fits pump perfectly bolted into the case without the bottom foam. 2) Shurflo Pump model 4800, $72.00 - : Amazon/RecPro 3) Inline Shurflo Filter Model 15-085-00 included with pump - : Amazon/RecPro 4) Basic Fresh water hose (white) - $17.00 : Amazon cut to use short pieces for pump connections and used the other pieces as the input side hose (with a rigid piece of 1/2" pex as the drop lead) and outlet hose with repaired male end connector. 5) Qty 1 - Inlet side Female Swivel Garden Hose Connector (barb connector style) $1.50 ea - : Ace HW 6) Qty 2 - Male Garden Hose Connectors (barb connector style) one used on outlet, one to repair the outlet hose. 7) Qty 4 - 1/2" stainless pipe clamps - $4.00 : Ace HW 8) Qty 2 - SHURFLO (244-2926 1/2" x 14 NPT x 1/2" Barb Straight Wingnut Swivel Adapter - : Amazon 9) Qty 1- Zamp Waterproof Solar Port - : Amazon 10) Qty 1 - SPARKING 6' SAE To Ring Terminal Harness Quick Connect/Disconnect Assembly & 10A Fuse + SPARKING 2' SAE Quick Connect Harness (this is to make the other side of the cable) - : Amazon 11) Qty 1 - Fastronix SPST HD 20 Amp AC/DC Toggle Switch with Weatherproof Neoprene Boot - : Amazon So here are some pictures of the finished project in the transit case. Case in closed ready for travel position: Case opened to show hoses and electrical connectors stored inside: Contents removed so you can see the pump connection setup: Hoses and electrical connectors shown beside case: Handle side shows DC connector (that matches the ZAMP port wiring) and on/off switch: Inlet side: Outlet Side: Assembly comments and learnings: 1) Pump body - originally I was going to mount it onto a pvc board but found that the depth of the transit case and height of pump worked out better if I could simply bolt into the case. I used 4 bolts with baking washers to secure the pump into the case. 2) Port locations - I tried to figure out a way for the ports to exit out the handle side of the box, in fact I bought some elbow connectors for the pump, but quickly found that they interfered with the closure clasps. As a result I went for a simpler straight side to side flow. 2) Electrical Switch Location - My initial hole for the switch ended up interfering with the closure clasp once the switch was installed and in the ON position. I decided to plug that hole with an automotive plug and move the switch mounting down a bit further. (See handle side view.) Pump Performance: 1) I used the pump yesterday to pump a 6 gallon container of my tank sanitizer solution into the fresh tank. The pump operated smoothly and the 6 gallons were pumped into the tank in 58 seconds. (The pumps spec is 3 GPM ...so it met that spec.) 2) I also tried the pump on the street side water inlet, and the pump would cycle on and off as I turned on and off the sink faucets. So another use is to hook it up to a bigger bladder tank external and use it as the main water supply. (*Note - The pump has a 55PSI max, and is factory set for 45 PSI working shutoff pressure.) The case stores nicely run the Oliver Elite II basement on top of my water filter holder. Possible upgrades: 1) I might add a stainless vent pair on the box so I can run the pump with the box closed. The vent would allow for airflow in/out and adequate cooling space around the pump body if running for a longer time. 2) Build a Zamp (SAE) to Anderson Connector so I can plug this into my truck power port's that I'll install this summer. 3) Try running this pump off of a small rechargeable 12v Lithium Battery bank. Make up appropriate 12v connectors. Questions and comments welcome. Craig Short Hull 505 - Galway Girl

I know many of us are in a mood to say "good riddance" to much of what 2020 brought, but I'd like to say, I'm thankful for many things that did happen this year. Early in the year, my nephew married one of the sweetest young women I've ever met. Much of my family was here. I'm really thankful my nephew and his bride chose a February date for their wedding. It's the last time in 2020 that joy and hugs abounded, and so much family could gather. During our more quiet, more isolated time, since March, we've completed dozens of projects we'd been postponing. And, of course, made new lists. I'm studying yet another language, hoping to be able to speak to some of Paul's cousins when they (hopefully) can visit next year from Italy, without resorting to Google translate on my phone. I've renewed several old friendships over text and phone, as we check in with each other. Most especially, I've reunited with a cousin who was my BFF as a little girl, but we grew apart. We speak often, now. The shared experiences of today have brought renewed memories of our shared childhood experiences. I'm thankful that my mom, with all her health issues, has done well so far, with the help of all my siblings, and great doctors . I'm thankful that the younger members of our family who still work are all employed, happy, and healthy. And the few who did get covid, survived and are back on their feet. And, I'm thankful for my neighborhood, where we can talk over the fences, or on patios, share stories (and eggs, sugar, etc.), and never feel alone in quarantine times. Not to ever make light of this strange year, or minimize the tragedies. I lost one cousin, and there was only a small, immediate family only funeral. For those of you who have lost loved ones, I offer my heartfelt sympathies. I know what loss feels like, and this year, without our customary practices, it's especially and uniquely difficult. Not to be able to travel, and hug my aunt and hold her, and comfort her in her time of loss, was very difficult for me, and for my mom, her sister. In these difficult and very different times, I'd also like to say thank you for the community here. Every morning, I look forward to seeing friends here, as well. I wish you a very happy, and healthy, new year in 2021. Sherry

I made a sheet metal box to fit in the space but not hit or rub on any wires or tubing. It is suspended from the flange so it can not drop down. It is easy to remove and reinstall.

Oliver Owners, We picked up our new trailer (Legacy Elite I #664) on Sept 16, 2020 and have been using it on/off since this date. Overall, our experience has been wonderful and the quality of the trailer has been much better than what we have read about other manufacturers. In an attempt to help others with our recent learnings, I am listing some of the items were have learned about, fixed, and/or submitted a tickets for: Initial Pickup: - The bathroom interior window frame was bent due to being over tightened - Jason and the person showing us the trailer located a new frame and installed. - Window shade over the rear driver's side window had damage to the felt liner at the bottom of the night shade. - Orientation team replaced. First Night Camp @ Davy Crockett State Park: - Noticed that the propane alarm was not on. - Contacted Jason via telephone and he walked me through installing the 1A fuse that was included in the box of spare fuses provided. The fuse holder is located under the dinette seat and is somewhat hard to find as it is black and not easy to see. - Upon opening the rear compartment door, the bracket where the wire attaches to keep the door from swinging down came unglued. - Contacted Jason to let him know and he said they would send me some epoxy to fix. Ended up purchasing some a few weeks after getting back home as it never arrived. I let Jason know we no longer needed as I had fixed per his recommendation of Gorilla 2 part epoxy. - Shower floor squeaks a lot - Contacted Oliver Service and have a ticket for them to repair when we take the trailer back to TN for its annual checkup. According to Jason, the squeak is most likely from the shower tub not being cut correctly or the padding under it not installed correctly. No biggie for now as we have learned to live with it knowing that it will get fixed. If your spouse decides to use the bathroom at night, It will wake you up. No liquids right before bedtime. 🙁 First Long Drive from TN to AR: - Had someone flag us down and let us know that the rear compartment door had come open during travel. Upon pulling over and inspecting, we noticed that the screws had come loose on the latch and allowed the door to open with the latch locked close. I was lucky enough to have some blue lock-tight with me to use on the screws when retightening. No further issues experienced. We let Oliver know that this happened and they indicated that lock-tight should have been added to the screws at the factory. I am confident they put new procedures in place to keep this from happening again. First Time Back Home: - Spent time learning about the solar system, inverter, appliances, etc.... - Realized that both the Solar Controller and the Inverter were both set to flooded batteries vs. the AGMs we had installed. Changed both to AGM. No issues noted so not sure if it really mattered. Texas State Park Close to Home: - Noticed a small gap at the top of the external door window frame. - Contacted Oliver and was told that the frames are designed to click together but requires special plastic keys to take the frame off to inspect. From my reading this is a common thing from the door factories with the tabs getting broken. We tried several time to get the internal frame to snap together with the external frame. No luck. Contacted Oliver again and Jason said he would have a new frame (and plastic keys) sent to us so we can repair/replace. The suppliers are backed up, so it has now been two months with the door window frame and glass loose. I was successful in learning that there is a supplier zarcor.com that has the window frames (Lippert) in stock and can be purchased/delivered within a couple of days. We will most likely end up just ordering and replacing as they also offer a clear tinted glass and window shutter for the door. There is another post in this forum with pictures if you are interested. Being that this repair is taking a long time to get resolved, I would recommend anyone picking up their trailer inspect this and have it repaired before taking delivery. Arkansas State Park (Crater of Diamonds): - Upon arrival at the State Park we noticed that the trailer was squeaking loudly with every small bump in the park. Upon inspection, I did not notice any lose bolts, nuts, fittings on the suspension. We contacted Jason at Oliver and he had not heard of anyone having this problem before. We ducked our heads down and slowly made it to our campsite without disturbing the other campers throughout the park. We did get some stares tho with the squeaks. Once setup, I made a quick trip to the local hardware store to purchase a small grease gun/grease, 90-degree zerk fitting as the zerks are not accessible without having the pull the tire off, and some dry lube spray. Utilized to the stabilizers to take some weight off the trailer and utilized the grease gun. Fun fact - the top zerk fitting (wet bolt) that attaches to the frame bracket actually serves no purpose as the bolt is not contained within a bushing (Only on the single axle trailers). I would not recommend you go to town putting grease in this wet bolt as the grease will just exit the bolt and make a nice stream of grease falling on the lower spring eye. Not sure why dexter/oliver designed it with a wet bolt in this location. Sad part is that, the squeak we had was between the shackle and the trailer frame bracket and without the trailer bracket having a bushing there is no real way to get grease between the two. Only option at this point was to use the dry lube spray. Happy to say that this resolved most of the squeak until we could get back home (~400 miles). Upon getting home, I used a spray can of Fluid Film to spray down the area between the shackle and trailer bracket. No more annoying squeak! I have some pictures on another computer that I can attach at a later time if you are curious. Other trips - Nothing new to report beyond what has already been said above. Improvements - As recommended by others on this forum, we did go ahead and install the black window seals available on pellandent.com due to some of the white window seals had stains on them from the factory and were cut about 1" too short. I must say that the black seals look much better and should eliminate an excess amount of water needing to travel through the window drains due to them now being long enough. If you do a search on this forum for pellandent you will see some pictures posted by others. Once again, the point of this post is to inform others of our experience and to share some of the things we have learned. As with anything, enjoying life comes with opportunities to improve oneself and help others on their journey. Mark

Went from 4 Trojan 6 Volt AGMs to 4 Battle Born 100Ah GC2s. Mounted a BMV-712 Victron in close proximity to the negative post of battery Mounted main fuse in close proximity to the positive post of battery Mounted main battery disconnect in close proximity to the positive post of battery Added a positive and negative bus bar and moved all cabling to inside the basement except for the 2 main 4/0 cables. (I was able to exchange main fuse with a positive bus bar using the same mounting area, then moved the fuse out to the positive post of the battery) I used bus bars to connect the 4 batteries in parallel A strip of flat PVC was used to insulate between bus bars

Lately, I've seen several posters "apologize" for questions. Not necessary. The search engine, though better than the old days, won't always give you good, nor current answers. While it's true that I've answered some questions many (dozens?,) of times, it's really not a big deal. What's a big deal is that your question is important. To you. Old timers who don't want to respond, won't. And with so many new systems in the newer trailers, your questions are helpful to all of us .

I have not posted in a while. My Oliver family has had me very busy in the shop. We are getting ready to go camping and then head to Greece for a 10-day vacation. I will be suspending my crafting for the month of August and will start back up the first week in September. I plan to ship all orders through August in the next week. New orders will begin shipping in mid-September. Below is my current challenge, a 35” x 22” x 1.4” Lagun tabletop in black walnut. While this sounds simple, the challenge is in the weight. Lagun Table Systems have a maximum weight of 50 pounds. It includes the top and any items you are going to place on it. My target weight of 15 pounds for the finished top leaves 35 pounds for day-to-day use. The walnut blank I started with 35” x 22” x 1.4” thick weighed in at 29 pounds. I decided to back cut the bottom in three sections down to ¾” thick, with 1” wide edges and two cross supports. It came in at 15.2 lbs. Beautiful to look at, light as can be, and engineered to be strong for a lifetime of use.

Since I'm dealing with a number of messy issues with my new to me LE2, I wanted to shift my attention and share with y'all a couple recent mods that I'm proud of. Some were the genius of others on this forum that I copied and some are my own.

All: well I got it! So much to do today - LEARN. Newbie, 2000%. Hellva time backing in and park empty but a couple finally came along and he helped me back in. HE said it was not the easiest place to back in. I need to learn everything. Only hooked to elec so far. But restroom right across from me with SHOWER, which is now the most beautiful word in the English language, in my book. I am so glad I booked a week here to figure basic things out! Here is the Ollie (it’s 6:30 AM CST).

Thank you to Mattnan and Mainiac for pointing us in the direction of Banana Banners for our graphics..

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is south west Arizona.

Please be patient as I continue to find and resolve the issues in the server hosting the forums. I do not know what caused it, as nothing has been changed but possibly a background update on the server software. For now I have it semi-working and I will continue working on it until it is back 100%. Thank you for your patience and sorry for any inconveniences. - Jason

Here's a pretty easy project for owners of the Nature's Head toilet - a step to make the seat a more reasonable height. It's a slightly modified version of this new step from Squatty Potty. Since it's wood, it looks a lot better than the original plastic one, and also makes it pretty easy to modify. I wanted something that wouldn't take up most of the floor, so that we could leave it out and not have to worry about where to store it, so I scribed and cut notches on the legs to match the floor offset. That way it sits flush against the toilet and leaves plenty of room. As a bonus, the factory cutout matches the front of the Nature's Head pretty well without any modification. The legs do fold, so you could use it right out of the box if you wanted, and would be relatively easy to store - or just tip it up against the toilet. But making the notches and resealing it was a simple task and I kind of like that it looks a bit custom. It's polyurethaned and the hardware is chromed, so I suppose you could leave it out when showering, but it's easy enough to just prop it up behind the shower curtain so I'm sure that's what we'll do. I wish it were stained a bit darker to match the shower mat, but I wasn't concerned enough about it to bother with the sanding and staining. For a quick, two hour project, I think it turned out pretty well, and ended up just about the perfect height.

For those who are new to dry camping and wonder why folks camp without hookups let's post some pictures of places we've boondocked to give and idea of what we're talking about. This is Agguire Spring Campground outside of White Sands NP. It's a BLM campground at about 6K'. You can see WSNP about 20 miles in the distance.

I'm in agreement, that there is a real need for a drop and go LI upgrade. You can in fact do a drop in LI's if you have the PD4060 with LI setting in your Oliver and be down the road pretty quickly. I planned to do that as well but I decided after research to upgrade to a smart charger/inverter along with the new LI batteries. Backdrop: Trailer manufacturers (including Oliver) are shifting rapidly away from the older "CONVERTER" technology as typical from Progressive Dynamics to newer Smart Charger/Inverters as they provide more benefits to customers and programmable profiles for Lead Acid, AGM and Lithium's which all can have different profiles. They are also looking at newer trailer control and wiring schemas to have touch control centers for all loads, batteries, solar etc. The benefits to the customers are single points of control for the multiple systems, and for the Trailer Mfrs a reduction in the time to integrate and wire up the trailer systems. My current hull 505 (2019 EII): has a PC charge converter and a separate 2000W Prosine Inverter My Load Center is from Progressive Dynamics, is the PD4000 line, and under the dinette seat. (Covers off the load center) That power center includes the AC Breakers, about half the DC Fuses and the the PD converter model PD4060K which has a charge wizard for Lead Acid/AGM battery charging and and a built in Lithium Setting Switch. That LI Switch on the PD Converter when set, outputs a constant 14.6 v, but is NOT a smart charger by any means. I also have a separate Xantrex ProWatt 2000 pure-sine inverter. Battery Shopping : As I shopped for batteries I started with Battleborn support and learned a few things about LI battery charge profiles. They are different for each chemistry, and each battery manufacturer and each battery management system (BMS) has it's own specific charge profile that is "BEST" for battery cycle life. Battleborn said their products will work well with the Progressive Dynamics Converters that have the Lithium Setting, but they said at the end that the ideal setup is to have a SMART charger with a customer settable Lithium Charge profile. They encouraged me to consider upgrading my charger if I had the budget and space to a smart charger....but said the LI setting would work. Smart Charger ? to PD: My next call was Progressive Dynamics Support to find out if they had a newer LI smart profile converter that would plug into the PD4000 load center...no joy. Speaking with Andy (Svc Mgr) at Progressive Dynamics I learned that the PD Converter units on LI setting outputs a constant 14.6V to the batteries. Andy said they do not have an available LI specific smart charge wizard from PD for the basic converters in the PD4000 load center. A smart LI wizard would drop from 14.6 bulk charge back to a LI Specific float voltage around 13.4. Andy said while they don't have a plug in converter with smart lithium profiles yet. He closed by saying the PD 4060 unit works to bulk charge Lithium you may not be Optimally Charging and delivering the longest life for the new LI battery. Oliver's newer choice - Inverter Charger combos: What I also learned, is that in the newer inverter/chargers Oliver is using like the Xantrex XC 2000 or XC 3000 , (or Victron Inverter Chargers) they include a smart programmable battery charger specifically designed to be able to set a lithium profile to exactly match whichever battery specs are provided by the Battery Manufacturer. This charger replaces the former PD4060 converter section. In the 2021 and newer trailers Oliver no longer uses PD4000 energy center. Oliver has moved ahead to the newer technology of smart inverter chargers. The Benefit of these smart inverter/chargers are much longer battery life for the Lithiums while also delivering inverted power to the trailer. Summary: So while I know I could do a simple drop in of Battleborn's into the Oliver with the PD 4060 Converters set to LI and add the "victron smart shunt" , I found that the end result will be a LI battery pair with a somewhat reduced overall life. Finally when I then spoke with Lithionics directly about my upgrade, they said they would prefer that I upgrade to a smart charger and away from the PD4060 converter as they don't meet the charge profile that would provide the longest useful life of the Lithionics batteries. Hope that's interesting to those who are following this thread. Craig

Joshua Tree NP, Indian Cove campground.

This is Franklin Mountain State Park outside of El Paso. There are only 6 sites.

Here is a draft delivery checklist prompted, in part, by comments regarding a recent inverter-mount failure (see below). This delivery inspection checklist began with one used by NCeagle for his delivery, to which I've added items. The list is almost certainly incomplete -- what other items would you suggest to help new buyers? Thanks to Oliver for providing this educational ad-free forum, and to all of you for your forum posts that have contributed to this list. This open-dialogue forum is IMHO a huge asset to the OliverOllie Inspection Checklist (draft 4-9-2021).pdf travel trailer brand. I divided the list into two parts: (1) the actual delivery day inspection and (2) items for further inspection at DCSP. I plan on testing the list in 3 weeks when we pick up Hull 792, and will refine the list based on this experience (and with your additions, suggestions, comments, etc). The list is in pdf form. Once updated, I'd be happy to send out (or post) an xlsx version.

As of a few minutes ago, we now have 5,000 members! Thanks to all of you who join and participate. Especially those of you who are so helpful in answering questions from new members. We appreciate all of you.

My domestic fridge just stopped cooling, no signs of leakage. Everything testing good on the troubleshooting guides. The opinion of the local RV guy was that I had a failed cooling unit. That left me with two options: buy a new unit or replace the cooling unit. After talking to Jason at Oliver and him telling me that to remove the fridge from the trailer you need to remove the door, I thought I would try to replace the cooling unit myself. I found some places that would ship a unit for $500 to $1000 and I do the install. I watched many videos and researched the work. In this research I found several people talking about burping this kind of unit, it entails flipping the unit on its side, top and allowing the ammonia mixture to reposition and displace any air pockets. Since I had to remove the fridge from its housing I thought I would try it...and it worked! We just took a 10 day trip and it worked fine. Some RV techs said it was a wive's tale. Glad I tried it. Hope this might help somebody.

NC had a cold snap over the past few days / nights and I was able to get some pretty good data that validates what other owners already know - the Ollie does quite well in cold weather and will stand up to just about anything if you run the furnace. Disclaimer: I have done some minor cold weather modifications. In addition to adding some reflectix to the outside shower housing and the battery and basement storage doors, I added a furnace duct through the basement and down the street side. By putting 3 small holes in the duct to help heat that side of the basement, I have raised the average temp ~7F, so that gives you an idea if your Ollie is stock. During this testing, I had the hot water heater on occasionally (I've been testing my new shower head) and had the fresh water tank full at the start and used 20% or so during the two days. Here's the data: Some observations... 1. The higher risk areas are definitely the rear storage compartment and street side basement. They tend to get colder than the other parts of the trailer and do have a considerable amount of plumbing. 2. The front street side near the toilet / black tank are definitely the coldest. I'm not worried about that as I have a composting toilet and have drained the water from the line that's there for the standard toilet. 3. Both nights were similar in temperature, and an average of 7.2 lbs of propane was burned per night. At peak, the furnace ran 5 times per hour for 7 minutes each (so 35 minutes per hour). During this test, I burned about .75 pounds of propane for each 60 minutes of furnace run time. I'm going to run a separate test soon to pinpoint propane usage over furnace run time as that's going to be important for trip planning. 4. The batteries run the furnace and each night the batteries dropped an average of 22%, so 88 Ah of battery was also required per night. 5. As long as the Ollie has electricity and propane, nothing is going to freeze easily if at all. Even the Lithium battery compartment stays warmer than I expected. I need some colder temps to do more testing, but this looks very promising!

On our drive back home to SE Texas after picking up our Ollie, we stayed at the COE Maumelle Park (Highly recommend). After unhooking the trailer, we made a short drive of about 10 min. to the TR Pugh Memorial Park located within Little Rock. I thought I would share the photos as it was a wonderful place to see and highly recommend you visit if you find yourself in the Little Rock Area.

Haven't had time to take many vanity shots of Pearl; 11 days on the road, preparing meals in hotel rooms, and transferring our gear from the back of the pickup to the trailer have been exhausting. Here is one quick shot at our campsite in David Crockett SP. I know, not too exciting. The park is wonderful and we found Tennessee to be beautiful, despite the trees all being bare. Trip report: I was apprehensive, driving cross country this time of year, but we've certainly been fortunate. The journey from Oregon to Tennessee was amazing. There was barely any traffic on I-80 and, although it was cold and we experienced a few snow flurries in Missouri and some wind coming through Wyoming, the weather has been great. We are now headed west, taking the I-40 route to Nevada then north to Oregon via Hwy 365 and I-5. Current weather forecasts don't predict any snow; perhaps a shower around Susanville, CA. Looks like clear sailing! We will get some practice dealing with cold temperatures, but I believe we can manage without completely winterizing, just draining the hot water tank during travel time from Flagstaff through the Sierras. While camped at David Crockett SP, nighttime temps were in the mid 20's, but were able to maintain 40 deg temps in the utility area with the furnace or an electric space heater. Our plan is to pass through from Albuquerque to Kingman and not overnight in northern AZ where temps will drop to the teens at night. Daytime temperatures are expected to be mid 30's to upper 40's. The only other questionable area will be crossing the Sierras around Susanville. Will be watching the weather forecasts daily.

I'd always thought "boondocking" referred to dispersed camping - i.e. using places where it's legal to camp but not in an established campground, and campingin a campground w/o hookups was "dry camping." But I'm happy to go with the local flow here on this forum and thread - the point in this threat being places where you'll be happy you have a camper that lets you break free of hookups! Here are a few views from a sweet dispersed site on BLM land just east of Capitol Reef NP off of the Notom Road. There are SO many spots like this near CR and also the Grand Staircase Escalante NM.

This is Red Canyon campground just outside of Bryce Canyon NP. It's a FS campground.

I worked in the information security industry before retiring a few years ago and Facebook still has a long way to go before they regain my confidence in their information security and data privacy policies. MeWe is very similar and and a newcomer to rival FaceBook. I'll wait and see quite a while before joining. I'm sticking to this forum. This is the only forum I have ever joined in my life (so far) because I see great value in the honesty and helpful tips everyone provides. I'm going to remain an "internet introvert". 🙂

It's hard to believe that I'm finally sitting in my own Oliver as I write this. Picked up yesterday with a fantastic walkthrough with Hanna. I had a long checklist of things to go over and questions to ask. Hanna anticipated everything and really impressed me with her knowledge and attention to detail. I told myself that I wasn't going to be one of those people who has to run over to Tractor Supply to get the right hitch, but I was! LOL. After about 300 miles on highways, winding country lanes, rainstorms and potholes, I can say that everything is great. No problems. What can I say? Great company. Great product. In coming days I'll add some posts on some specific components and Hanna's answers to some of my questions that you'll all find interesting.

Spending our first night at the new Oliver campground in our amazing Elite II. Last September we toured the factory and made the decision that this was the RV we really wanted once we had retired this summer. The forum has been a great source of learning all about the Oliver Elite II. We are looking forward to many adventures and meeting new friends. So very excited!

Elite I Oliver Owners, Jason confirmed with their QC/Engineering department that the LE1 trailers should have 1.5" of upward travel. Therefore the upward travel on our trailer was not within the design specs. Jason offered to have our trailer inspected by their shop or a local provider to determine what might be our issue. Upon further discussion with Jason and a few more photos sent to him, we quickly determined the source of our issue was the incorrect Dexter Heavy Duty Kit Shackle was used on our single axle setup. The correct shackle kit (K71358) has shackles that are 4 5/8" in length whereas ours was the shackles you would have used on a dual axle trailer with a length of ~ 3 5/8". Ergo, our trailer is sitting ~ 1" lower that it should. I requested he send me the correct kit with new bolts, nuts, bushings, and shackles for me to install sometime next week. My best guess is someone in the factory just picked up the wrong shackles and installed. I am sure Jason will provide them with the feedback required to establish a QC process that inspects this area so it never happens again. I would however, recommend other 2020 LE1 owners out there inspect their shackles to ensure the correct ones were used on their trailers.

These 2 little guys fit on the little bed, but I’m betting they’ll out grow it two years. Right now though, they’re having a blast!

As many of you know, I craft custom upgrades for Oliver Travel Trailers. As we head into the camping seasons I have refreshed my catalog to reflect my current products and a pricing increase. If you have an order on my production list or I have sent you a price quote, your price will not increase. You can find my catalog - Foybles Catalog V2.3f below. Onward, Foy Sperring 48ocean@gmail.com Foybles' Catalog V2.3f.pdf

I found Oliver trailers sometime during 2017 - I was seriously considering a class C 4wd - of the Elkhart clan. After much consternation - it finally jelled in my mind - the trailer was the more flexible platform - with a 4wd TV. I toured the Oliver factory - visited Oliver at least twice before purchase - and we took Ollie home July 2018. As someone with decades of manufacturing experience - I recognized Oliver was perhaps at the top of the heap in RV manufacturing - but just decent -in the whole. Has my ownership experience been perfect, great, good, met my expectations, or worse. Since I began reading this forum - a constant reoccurring theme has been the various questions, concerns, and praise for the OLIVER quality level - and in a few threads - some - second guessing the purchase altogether. Personal consternation over real or perceived quality issues that arise within days, weeks- or months of delivery. And too their credit - forum members are always eager to help - often with personal experience on an issue. We see repeat issues, we see obvious defective build issues, we see a very responsive service group and we see owner mods that make Ollie better, and we see a community of like minded caring Oliver Owners - a preponderance of them with previous RV experience - or - who are handy with tools, and repair procedures - and have no problem fixing many of the minor things that can go wrong with RV ownership. Lets face it - The modern Oliver RV is a complicated multi system RV that relies on its many parts to work correctly - together- to deliver the experience a new owner expects. As good as the forum experience aids and supports the Oliver brand - when your Ollie let you down - soon after writing that check - good intentions don't help much. So what is a reasonable, realistic customer expectation level for the new Oliver owner at purchase. Is it acceptable to have any of the systems inoperative - at delivery- or within days. Is it ok for a system to be less than fully installed. Is it ok for the delivery day process to be less than top shelf. Is it ok that the service department is relied upon to carry the day - too often. Or, does knowing RV's are historically hit and miss on the quality front, and with Oliver's reputation in mind, we look past the initial disappointment. It's not a Toyota after all. (I couldn't resist poking) Your opinions - your feedback - are important - here - and to me - I can be very critical on the subject - but I attempt to temper my comments - and expectations, due to my time in the trenches of manufacturing hell. I believe Oliver is connected to this forum - as it is a feedback loop, and an important first hand accounting. I also believe - we owe it to ourselves, a personal responsibility - to educate and learn about our purchase - and try to understand the issue at hand. But where does the line of responsibility begin and end. You put $$ down, eagerly waited months, happy anticipation for delivery day, and you fully expect your high dollar purchase will be 100% perfect - right? Well - at least be fully usable. So, after 2.5 years of med/heavy use, at least 4 trips to Oliver service for R n R, a few phone calls for info on this or that, does my experience meet my expatiation. Well - mostly - because I expected less than perfect. I understood the Oliver was only as good as its components and the build process - itself. And I inform and educate myself on the product, as best as I can. Yea Oliver is better than SOB, so what, I bought an Oliver, Would I buy my Oliver again. Probably. But if I was a normal ordinary customer - new to the RV world, my view may be less generous. I don't bleed Oliver, that is Scotts job, but I do care about the brand and how customers feel about their purchase - as I represent Oliver with my purchase and continued use. It is much more pleasant to promote than to defend. So, for those of you out there with less than favorable experiences - hang in there - Oliver will get it right, for the satisfied of you, happy trails, and for the rest of us, well - we're never satisfied anyways - well - not for long. 🙄 RB OFD

Sharing my modification to bring mudflaps closer to protect everything beyond the wheel well.

This is a recent issue that several people have been seeing on the Xantrex Inverter. We have already been in contact with Xantrex to determine what is causing this issue as replacing the remote or inverter does not resolve the issue. At this time Xantrex believes it to be a software issue and they are working on a firmware update. I currently do not have any other information as we are waiting on Xantrex to complete the firmware update, test to ensure it does resolve the issue and then communicate to us and other service centers on how they plan to implement this new software update. Anyone that is having this issue, if you haven't already, I would recommend submitting a service ticket so we know who to contact once we have more information. Until the issue is resolved you can still use the inverter by turning it off and on at the main panel. The inverter is located under the driver side bed and the main panel screen looks just like the remote. Simply press the round button to turn the inverter on for powering the 120v systems with battery power. You do not have to turn this on when connected to shore power. You can submit a service ticket at: Service Ticketing System

This is at Two Medicine campground at Glacier NP.

This is a BLM area outside of Goblin State Park in Utah. We couldn't get a spot in the park, so went just a few miles away where there is a lot of BLM land with free dispersed camping.

I have been working on a Drop-Leaf design for another customer that would increase the size of the pantry countertop for serving and fold down for storage when not in use. Something similar could be done for the front edge of the dinette. I will post pictures once I have a prototype of the pantry drop-leaf.

Most of you are probably already aware that the forums were down for nearly all day today. We had some issues with our host doing a database versioning upgrade. We spent the better part of the day troubleshooting, talking with support, and a whole lot of googling trying to find the solution. We finally figured out the issue and quickly resolved all of the errors keeping us offline, now we're back and we expect no further problems! Thank you, everyone, for your emails letting us know, enjoy!

Middle Fork Campground about 16 miles south/southwest of Buffalo, WY.

After driving 2,500+ miles from Oregon, we are in Linden tonight . . . . picking up #699 - "Pearl" in the morning. Stay tuned for photos!

Went down to the Wind River Range in Wyoming the 3rd week of July and just now finishing up with photos from the trip. We camped one night the Grand Canyon of the Snake River which by the way is a drop dead gorgeous canyon with some nice USFS campgrounds although close to the road. From there we headed down to the Green River Lakes area in the northern part of the Winds. Had crystal clear blue skies and no fire smoke until the last day. Great hikes beautiful country just an awesome trip. For anyone inclined to take this on be forewarned there is 20 or so miles of very rough gravel road to get back in there, no cell service for at least an hours drive out. Figure about 15-20 mph going in with a few patches of smoother gravel for a few but not many miles. To provide an idea of how rough the road is, we shook 3 of the window frame shades of their mounts, the solar controller in the basement became dislodged from its installment screws, one of the cables for the pins that latch the rear bumper broke loose. Anything not tied down was strewn all over the camper. I'm probably forgetting a few things. Trudi and I had briefly visited this place some 40 years ago and its been on my bucket list ever since. Highly recommended, I would go back in a heartbeat. Regarding true boon docking there are many places along the Green River to accommodate and initially this was our plan until talking with another family who tried it for one night but the bugs and ants were so bad they couldn't even get out of their camper, a Lance in this case. With those words of encouragement we opted for the USFS campground @$6 per night for the geezer crowd. By any measure the vast majority of campers here are tent campers, and the new rage of clamshell tents that carry on top of trucks, suvs and fold out into a top mounted tent. There are two loops here, one small higher the other a bit large and closer to Green River Lake. No reservations, its far too remote and in fact never saw a ranger and there was no camp host at all for the entire week. No problem at all getting a good site and most people only stay one or two nights. BTW the lake and campground itself are approximately 8,000 feet elevation give or take a few. Posting a few quick and dirty iPhone photos below. Green River camp above. Most of the sites here are very large probably between 1/4 or perhaps 1/2 an acre on average. Campsite at the Grand Canyon of the Snake River. Green River Lake sunrise with Sqaure Top Mountain. Preferred a b&w for this one. Beach at the far end of Green River Lake, about a 2-3 mile hike one way, we did the complete loop around with a few other excursions for a total of about 8-9 miles View from the west shore of the lake returning from hike up Clear Creek Canyon Clear Creek approximately half way to the end of the canyon where a natural bridge crosses the creek. Another view of Square Top on the route out from Clear Creek. I was nursing a plantar fasciitis one one foot this day so the almost 12 mile hike just about did me in. We had a few outrageous sunsets accompanied by a rising near full moon. Thanks for looking.

Hello Oliver Community! My wife Frieda and I placed an order last week for a 2022 Legacy Elite II to be delivered next February. For over 20 years we've dreamed of owning an Airstream but once we learned about Olivers two years ago and took a look at them, the quality difference became apparent and we haven't looked back. We've been working with Phil and can't say enough good things about his customer service. I took a trip to the new showroom just last week and got my second factory tour. We cannot wait for our trailer. We look forward to getting to know all of you. Scott

Well - with most of local business shut down for the day, and Ollie in his winter cover - we made Lemonade out of lemons - err, umm a snow couple out of the white stuff. About 3 inches, temps warming up, we will be back to normal by Monday. In the meantime - enjoy and be safe. The bounds couple in white. RB

This is Gros Ventre Campground in Grand Teton NP. We had nice fall weather for a few days before it got cold.

An eternal heartfelt thank you to all Brothers and Sisters in arms who have served our great country honorably. Let’s also remember those who gave all for the continued freedoms we presently still enjoy. If so inclined maybe post up a photo of your service days. May God continue to bless this awesome country of ours. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 “Freedom is not Free”