Leaderboard

I check my gain on a regular basis, a habit I got in to with the smaller half ton trucks I towed my Oliver with. The last 4 years with our 2500, the big 6.7L Cummins does most of the braking.

As has been written many time here on the Forum - install these "gutters" on a very warm day and/or use a hair dryer or strong warm sun to warm both the area where the gutters will go and the gutters themselves, clean the area where they are to be applied VERY well, apply blue painters tape over the gutters to hold them securely in place for at least 24 hours. Due to the gutters wanting to stay straight and not bend around the curve of the windows, the more surface area that you give to be stuck to the side of the camper the better. If I had mine to do over again, I'd take the gutter down the sides of the windows just shy of 1/2 way - I only went down about 3 inches and that is not enough. Good luck! Bill

I re-plumbed the entire rear end of the trailer. I straightened out some lines and rerouted others so that they are neater than they were when our trailer was built in 2014. While I was at it, I put electric valves, that are controlled with a switch in the basement, in both the hot and cold lines going to the outdoor shower. I also ran an airline, that can be controlled with a valve in the basement, to these two valves so that the plumbing of the entire trailer can be blown free of water. The airlines also run to both wheelwells where an air fitting is available for airing up the tires. This entire air system can be supplied via the onboard compressor mounted in the back of the Silverado.

Both of my GM TVs (Chevy Silverado 1500 and GMC Savana 2500) are gassers equipped with the Tow/Haul feature; selects a lower gear for better engine braking effect and optimizes transmission shifting. They also have Manual mode, especially beneficial when going uphill or down a steep slope. I always engage Tow/Haul when trailering the Oliver and have used the Manual mode on occasion with the Silverado when towing in mountainous areas, but nothing too extreme; works great in lessening actual use of the vehicle’s brakes to ‘slow the go’! Something I noticed different with the Savana in the hills encountered on our most recent travel into Texas Hill Country, was the very apparent and effective downshifting of its 6-speed transmission when slowing for a stop, as well as down grade at speed. Could be that it is basically a commercial vehicle designed for carrying and handling heavy loads under adverse conditions. The hefty front and rear disc brakes, 12.8” and 13” rotors respectively, was another bonus; I rarely had to manually engage the brake controller, especially for quick stops at sudden traffic light changes. Because my wife has ‘extreme anxiety’ with thought of “those cliffside roads” that @jd1923 mentioned, I may never experience his described encounter; but then our GPS Navigation has taken us down many a path of uncertainty, don’t ya know!

Good post JD. I hope a lot of folks read this. I learned early on that the brake controller is not a "set and forget" device. I am always tweaking mine depending on road conditions, speed and especially GRADE!! At the start of a long steep descent, I put the gain way up. I can tell now when the TV and trailer are in sync with each other. Good thing you have an HD truck and glad you are safe. Brake failure on some of the steep grades we have out west is not an option! Does your Ram Cummins not have an exhaust brake? Not a diesel owner but thought that was one of their great benefits. Cheers, Dave

We are home safe now though I ran into quite a learning situation on our final stretch home. We spent the night at Rockhound SP near Deming NM and the next night was Roper Lake SP near Safford AZ. The normal route would be to take I-10 to US HWY 191 for a 2 1/2 hour drive. We've driven that route as well as US HWY 70 from Lordsburg to Safford. We really wanted to see Silver City and take a scenic route (see map) adding another hour to the drive. Heading NM on US HWY 180 out of Silver City we turned left on US HWY 78. Perhaps I should have heeded the warning at the turn, "Not Recommended for Truckers, Steep Downhill Grades." We had traveled up over 9000 ft in the White Mountains of AZ and all through Lincoln Co NM climbing and descending 1000s of feet in altitude without concern. What a beautiful drive and HWY 78 was not one of those cliffside roads, not scary with safe shoulders. There was a section after entering AZ that first climbed much higher and then it must have dropped 2500 FT in just a few miles, OMG! Zoom in to see the road (second pic). Much of the incline is behind the mountain and cannot even be seen and we are miles away when we stopped. After we got more than halfway down, I felt the upgrade HD brakes on our Dodge Ram start to fail. I have felt this before, so I knew what it was, from driving the heavy old cars of the 50s that would overheat and fade. The speed limit was marked at 30 MPH with many curve warnings at 20 MPH. I never exceeded 25 MPH regardless my brakes overheated. I have an infrared heat measurement gun. Parts of the discs were at 360F and the caliper holder on the right side was the hottest just over 400F. I was thinking why? We sat there for 30 minutes until all temp reading were down to 160F. (See 3rd pic for side view where we stopped.) I realized the truck was breaking for the trailer that the trailer brakes were not engaging hard enough for the extremely steep grade. The gain was fine for driving around town but should be increased for highway speeds and what I've learned now is that it should be increased more for declining steep grades. Thought I should write this up, so others do not get into a similar or worse situation. Maybe there are better controllers? Mine has a digital readout, numbers getting larger as the brakes are depressed harder. As they were the numbers only got up to 20 or so. After I increased the gain, the numbers were reading well over 40. I have never driven down such a mountain road with all the steep up and downs we have in the Rockies!

Not much downshifting on an older 4-speed automatic where 4th is overdrive. The Dodge has an OD OFF button on the shifter which I use always on uphill grades 55 MPH or less and did so on this steep downhill. And yes, had it in 2nd gear some. Until this stretch of road, I wondered if I truly needed one. @DavePhelps the older diesel pickup trucks did not have this feature, mine being a 2001. Only Class-As and commercial trucks had them back in the day. I believe Ford/GM/Dodge added them to diesel pickups over the last 10-15 years. I've had this on my upgrade list for a while: C44075 Direct Mount 4 inch PRXB Exhaust Brake Kit w Max Flow Design for 1998.5 -2002 Cummins 5.9L (pacbrake.com) Please keep in mind the point of the warning here. Of course, make sure your braking systems are in good maintenance but check your brake controller settings. I had not realized this setting should be adjusted as Dave and Mike had suggested/written above. Thank you. I cannot afford a late model Super Duty 350 Diesel though my Ram 2500 is a lot more truck than many Oliver Owners towing with 1500 series gasoline engine trucks. Trailer brakes are very important even with an engine brake. @Patriot owns a truck that can tow a 35' fifth-wheel or pull a triple-axle toy-hauler loaded with two full-dress Harleys! Would love to have one, but that's not in the cards for us. I had also upgraded the front brakes on my truck to larger 3rd Gen brakes designed for a heavier pickup with greater GVWR. Otherwise, do not travel this kind of road. The roadside warning was intended to 18-wheelers though next time instead of going for it, facing my fears, I should pick another road. Wow though what a drive, what beauty! I realized the brake fade soon enough, stopped, measured temps, chilled for 30 minutes, walked the dog. Increased the gain much higher and continued winding slowly down the mountain, 20 MPH average through this section of road. BTW, there is a stretch of road, in an area called "Top of the World" on US HWY 60 between Miami and Superior AZ that is one of the most breathtaking drives we've ever done including many in UT and CO. That was our next day on our way home. Always glad to be home and what a great trip we had taking 3 1/2 weeks just to roam what is otherwise a 2-day drive each way!

I suspect you were, but we're you downshifting, going down the mountain?

We saw two Oliver Elite II's at Table Rock Lake campground in Missouri. Driving there, we talked about the fact we had only seen one since we bought ours in August of 2023. BTW - If you are around TRL or Branson you have to eat at College of the Ozarks. The food is fantastic and the service was great. Kids work at a number of different things there to pay for tuition, room and board. https://www.keetercenter.edu/Dine/Dining/Menu

Found the problem. Wires behind Seelevel II were not connected completely. Easy fix once found. Jason at Oliver was a great help; thanks to Jason!

On our recent trip Western loop traveling over the 10% grade on Teton Pass from Victor Idaho to Jackson Hole Wy 5 different times we let our 6.7 V8 diesel engine brake work its magic. I am happy to report it worked flawlessly and I rarely if ever had to use our truck or trailer brakes. I will give Ford credit, they nailed it on their diesel engine braking tech with the new 10 speed transmission. (Edit - We would not have been comfortable traversing the Teton Pass with any other TV). This thread is a good reminder to check your braking systems for sure. Glad you made home safely @jd1923.

@Dave Mazone If you order this for your LP tank lid and base - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAJJJ3Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 and you have a twin bed configuration, consider ordering enough material to run two strips along the rough edges of the bed rails if you have a twin bed model. Let’s just say it really takes the edge off. 😊

One more moab pic. Kane Creek Road. Last full moon.

This summer I experienced my GM Silverado's engine braking -- it was the first time that I recognized what it was doing, and it is fantastic. I'm glad you had the tools to measure temperature and the knowledge to recognize what was happening, and what to do @jd1923

Two of these 1/2" Sharkbite valves with drains (one for hot, one for cold) plus a PVC pipe cutter, should be all that is needed. Depending on how much room you find around the Pex lines, I recommend making just one cut and trying to insert the Sharkbite fitting on both sides of that cut. If there is room, that is best. If some of the Pex must be cut out because there is not room otherwise, cut no more than 1/2 the length of the new valve out of the Pex pipe, to ensure enough Pex remains for insertion into both ends of the Sharkbite fitting. FWIW, when we camped with Hull #1291 with outside ambient temps of 9 degrees F, the lowest temp in the bottom of the hull was near the outside faucet. So, be sure there is no water left in the flexible hose to the shower handle as well.

Pictures from "Top of the World." The first picture does not do it justice. This drop in person looked like if you were driving at 50 MPH right on the edge of the Grand Canyon, OMG my heart was pumping! Final pic is the truck runaway just prior to a tunnel through the mountain. US HWY 60 descending to Superior Arizona.

I believe I saw these on one of the forum members Oliver @Galway Girl and did a little research to find them. Pop on and never have to take them off. Quality, thick, durable rubber. Pretty cool. Not sure if there has been a previous post but thought I would share. M https://www.etrailer.com/RV_Jack_Pads/SnapPad/SN59FR.html

Epoch is getting a lot of traction on YouTube.

When I was ordering my Elite II, and knew I wanted to boondock a lot, I considered ordering the 30# tanks -- but once I understood how much they weigh when full, the decision was easy. I use 20# tanks and I carry 3 of them (2 in the dog house and one in the bed of the truck). I have never run out of propane, though I have allowed 2 of the tanks to be out (once). I have learned to be mindful of where I can REFILL my tanks and also to keep a watchful eye on tank levels (watching for the sensor to show it has switched over to the second tank) -- so I know as soon as one runs out. Remember that if you are boondocked somewhere, you might need to be able to lift the tank into the bed of your truck (unless you want to tow your Oliver every time you refill) -- so it's not just lifting to get into the doghouse, but also in and out of the bed of your TV.

My wife and I did New Foundling and the same port you are going to stayed at Conroy's just up the road. many roads have no swalls and deep drainage ditches to hold snow in the winter but the roads would not hold me back , did Alaska twice and there you really have the frost heaves but marked slow down and all is good. Plan your trip, great people and sights do all the fingers even take the ferry north of Gros Morne and go over to Labrador for a couple days well worth the time and cheap ferry ride short enjoy.

Wow. Glad you are a safe and experienced driver. As others have mentioned, I too adjust my controller settings when on the fly. This is even more important for the many owners using well equipped half ton trucks. This demands that we be even more cautious of velocity under tow and how hard we are working our brakes. This past summer we were way back in the Custer Mountain State Park and I sensed that my brakes were being overworked despite my using gears 1 and 2 of our ten speed tranny. I pulled over and my IR sensor indicated 350 to 400 on the TV and only 125 on the trailer tires. I bumped up the Ford OEM brake controller to 9 of 10 while on the steep parts of that afternoon. In retrospect, for our rig, our truck and Ollie both are just shy of 6,000 pounds. I have for years use a seat of my pants check of controller setting. It requires two tests: TEST A: On a safe lightly traveled road, get up to say 45 MPH. With the trailer brake controller set to zero (OFF) and your trailer connected, apply your truck brakes for a firm stop. Sense the travel distance and de-acceleration your truck brakes provided. TEST B: Repeat the above test, this time with your brake controller set at it's normal reading. Now manually apply the trailer brakes using only your lever on the brake controller. Sense the travel distance and de-accelerating your trailer brakes provide. The truck brakes generally will provide superior stopping power than the trailer brakes. However you should definitely feel the power of just the trailer brakes as they try to stop a 12,000 pound load. If not, adjust to a higher controller setting and repeat the process after everything has cooled down. I highly recommend and have used for 3 years the JD suggested thermal sensor pictured below. Cost was appreciably a bit less than the far superior Kline suggested above. But it gets the job done just fine. When doing the above tests, if you have an IR Gun, your readings should be about the same for the axle being tested. I.E. the disk brakes on our truck temp's should be in the same ball park. The drum brakes on our trailer should be as well. If you see a significant lower temperature on one brake as compared to its peers, it likely is not performing well and needs further investigation. Finally when really working your brakes on a long downhill run, it is a great idea to pull over at a safety stop and check temp's. Look for outlier readings. GJ

Bill: Once again sage advice regardless of which product to be used. I tend to latch on to good recommendations and "immortalize" them into a Do-It-Yourself guides. Attached are two of mine that I intend on using in the Summer 2025 voyage around the US. As always, many much smarter owner's work has shamefully been copied for these guides. GJDIY - Ollie EZ Gutters From John D's Post.docxDIY - Trim Lock Drip Rail (Oct 2024).docx

I know this has been discussed on the forum but not sure if anyone has done this or if it can be done. Been thinking about the water inlets and the outdoor shower controls. Is there a way to put a shut off valve to the lines going to them? Would it be practical? I am thinking that by shutting off water to the points going out of the trailer and draining it would eliminate those parts of the plumbing system from freeze damage. The rest of it would be kept warm either by the furnace (while camping) or by running a heater inside the trailer with the hatches open (while stored) We have a garage that rarely gets below freezing in winter but it could if outside temps really dropped. Then I would just run the heater over night. TIA, Scotty

trying to set up another Texas Rally. So far, there is a Riverwalk RV Resort in Bandera, Inks Lake State Park, Lake Sommerville Rocky Creek (COE), Lake Sommerville Yegua Creek COE, South Llano River State Park (near Kerrville)., Midway COE near Waco and Airport Park COE near Waco, Lake Brownwood State Park. Any other recommendations? I will put a poll out soon but it will be on Facebook. I will keep those that are not on FB informed as this event progresses. Trying for Oct 20-23, 2025.

A change in vehicle type, but not in looks; truck vs van. 2012 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4, 144” wheelbase. 2019 GMC 2500 Savana Cargo Van, 135” wheelbase.

I would consider a shutoff valve with a drain vent like this SharkBite; available in 1/2 and 3/4”.

I drove an 18-wheeler for six months helping a friend with his transport business, some of which while hauling grain up through Palo Duro Canyon in north Texas and into Oklahoma. Saw many a truck runaway ramp and quickly appreciated their purpose. These ‘big-rigs’ have air brakes which can fail if applied too often on extensive down hill slopes; a situation wherein air demand exceeds the capability of the onboard compressed air supply or even a malfunction to the air system (compressor, air tank, air lines) itself. These off ramp structures are comprised of a deep bed of sand or gravel, an effective method of safely slowing heavy vehicles like trucks and even buses to a stop. The sign displayed in @jd1923’s pic reads ‘RUNAWAY VEHICLES ONLY’, guess that includes an Oliver TV, as well. Safe travels!

Yes - this has been done by more than one owner (not me - yet). Yes - there is a way to place shut off valves in each of the lines mentioned. Being "practical" is in the eyes of the person doing the work or paying the bill for having the work performed for you. Good luck with your plumbing skills and working in tight quarters! Bill

We didn't have to worry much in the rolling hills of Central Texas, elevation 1200-1800 FT max. The descent on AZ HWY 78 was over 3000 FT in about 15 miles. What caught me by surprise is that we had climbed to 9300 FT and descended the White Mountains of AZ and over 8000 in Lincoln Co NM, no issues. This drop in elevation in such a short length of road was extreme. Check out the sign in my first picture. Ever see a grade warning this steep? Twice we have wanted to visit Tonto Natural Bridge near Payson AZ. Both times I was towing. We did not realize the road to this park was so steep. This sign was at the exit of a turn-around area they had for us towing travel trailers! We passed on this visit not having time to disconnect and honestly, I did not want to attempt this descent even without the Oliver! Interstates and US highways have 6-8% grade max when speeds are >55 MPH. They did not have grade signs on AZ HWY 78 though I'm certain it was at least 10% in some stretches. Maybe Tonto Natural Bridge another time. It's only 2 hours from home.

Steve and MA took pics of all the Oliver sites, I think he said 43 Oliver trailers in attendance, one owner also came but stayed in a tent because their trailer was already winterized, and two Couples that where camping in their own trailer that were traveling with Oliver. Now I had 47 trailers ( includes the Coleman's tat used their tent) on my list that had sites, and they were all in attendance except for three, one had sold his Oliver, one stayed at home because of family medical issues and the other has small kids and just didn't make it. 70 folks enjoyed BBQ. There were about 96 folks that were at the rally.

During our stay at Davis Mountains SP our friends from Ruidoso called inviting us back, an offer we could not refuse! Decided to visit Silver City NM another time. This time we backed into their driveway and had two nights in a king bed. Did a day trip to Capitan NM and the Smokey Bear Park/Museum.” Pickleball in the mornings and Tuesday nights playing Crokinole at Downshift Brewing Co.

Many of the National Parks campgrounds are dry camping. Others, like around Moab are public campgrounds, COE and FS. I still use the Ultimate Campground app, even though it is no longer supported. You can sort sites so that you can find amenities that you want. Mike

U.P. of Michigan. Great view of the Big Mac bridge.

+2, I use the buckets and have a piece of 90-mil single ply roofing I place on the surface and then the Andersen Jack Base. I just couldn't come up with a reason to spend the $$.

Strange how this works!😁

I installed snap pads a few years ago. They help to not leave a foot print on black top paved sites at campgrounds. We also use the Andersen red buckets for both the front jack and rear stabilizers. For some It’s more of a want than a need I suppose. They do look great. 👍🏻

Read voltage at the fuse connected to the water pump (red wire), to the ground (black wire). If you have 12VDC then you need a new pump. If so, I suggested upgrading to a premium model. If no voltage, then there may be another fuse, or a disconnected or bad wire. Testing for voltage is always step one. Use voltmeter/multimeter or a simple 12V test light: https://a.co/d/if7BSpi

FEDERAL INCOME TAX CREDIT FOR QUALIFIED SOLAR ELECTRIC EXPENDITURES The Residential Clean Energy Credit (“CEC”) provides taxpayers with a credit in an amount equal to 30% of the costs of new, qualified clean energy property installed anytime from 2022 through 2032.1 The CEC applies to costs towards the purchase of property which which uses solar energy to generate electricity for use in a dwelling unit located in the United States and used as a primary or secondary residence.2 As relevant to the CEC, a “dwelling unit” generally includes mobile homes having basic living accommodations such as sleeping space, toilet, and cooking facilities (as are included with each Oliver Travel Trailers model).3 Property eligible for the CEC includes new solar panels, qualifying batteries having a capacity of at least 3 kilowatt hours, and related storage components (e.g., inverters, wiring, and monitoring equipment). If applicable, the CEC will reduce, on a dollar-for-dollar basis, the consumer’s federal income tax liability in the year of purchase. Excess unused credits can be forward to future years. ILLUSTRATIVE TAX BENEFITS Solar Package Lithium Pro Lithium Platinum Legacy Elite $5,330 N/A Tax Credit (At 30%) $1,599 N/A Legacy Elite II $7,120 $12,425 Tax Credit (At 30%) $2,136 $3,728 CLAIMING THE CREDIT After purchasing your Oliver Travel Trailers camper with solar package, keep your receipts for the total price paid to document your eligibility for the CEC. Include Form 5695, Residential Energy Credits, with your tax return to claim the credit. When filing, include the tax credit calculated on Form 5695 onto your IRS Form 1040 and file your tax return with the IRS to receive the credit. Depending on your state of residence, additional state tax credits may be available. The information contained in this summary is informational in nature, is not a warranty or certification as to applicability of any tax credits to the products described herein and should not be construed as tax advice to any specific individual or entity. Customers should consult with their own tax advisor with respect to your eligibility for the credit. 1 IRC § 25D(g)(3). 2 IRC §§ 25D(d)(2); 280A(f)(1)(A); IRS Notice 2013-70, 2013-47 I.R.B. 528 (11/1/2013). 3 Prop. Reg. 1.280A-1(c)(1) https://olivertraveltrailers.com/tax-credit-information/

For those into DiY guides, here is my preliminary one for Trailer Braking Performance Test and IR Sensor. It also includes the Klein IR meter at a far more reasonable cost than I had anticipated. One of the two is a Most Sold and the other the Amazon Choice. I would be interested in getting IR reading suggestions from others for TV Disk brakes and OTT LE2 Drum brakes. What do you consider OK, Warning, and Danger temperatures? I'll be sure to use them in my update down the road. DIY - Trailer Braking Performance Test and IR Sensor.docx Also to be added is the de-rate (Decreasing) controller settings for gravel roads and increasing controller settings for steep descents concepts. GJ

Scott and I are not available in early November because of our scheduled Elk hint in Montana.

Since you know that there really isn't any CO nor propane in the camper while it is in storage - why not simply take the fuse out of the detector. However, if you do this, please make sure in some manner that you put that fuse back in before using the Ollie the next time. Bill

Thought I saw one near Sunriver, OR but it turned out to be just a shiny dumpster!

I always do this but I then take Saran Wrap and cover the top of the toilet bowl so that the antifreeze doesn't evaporate over the winter. Perhaps this also serves to lessen the "fumes". Bill

This is one reason I have loved RV Tripwizard for trip planning as it will show you not only the elevation gain/loss but also the percent grade on the roads. I have often wonder what my “I’ll pass” limit would be. Once it hits double digits I start questioning. Since I am out west this is one of the reasons I went with a 3/4 ton to ensure more stability through all these mountains.

Ruth Meilstrup 2018 LE2, Hull 316 I’m planning to be there starting with the Big Tent RV show, through the Dome Rock Rally.

Said differently: The goal of the AC is to cool and dehumidify. For dehumidification you want to be getting humidity out of the system as fast as possible. For the Gen 2 Houghton it is by dumping it over the side. If the supply air fan is turned off with the compressor, most of the around 23 ounces of liquid on the coil remains on the coil. Upon start up you very quickly are kicking condensate over the side . If the supply air fan contineues to run, most of the condensate will be moved back into the cabin. Sort of like two steps forward and one step back thing. Hope this helps GJ

As per Jason ("I would just make sure the inverter is off and the shore power is disconnected. When you connect the wires make sure the breaker itself is tripped. Once all connections are good you can reset and verify it is working properly.") I installed/replaced the Optifuse breaker. After a few test discharge/recharges all appears to be working correctly...finally! I also worked with Xantrex and Lithionics call reps and made some small adjustments to the controls via the apps. Jason also added "We no longer use them (Optfuse breakers) as the system was changed in the '23 models with busbars and an ANL fuse & cutoff." Thanks for all the prior input & thoughts.

@Blain, I purchased a Champion 2500 Watt Dual Fuel Generator in late 2021, prior to our delivery of our LEII, Hull 990 in February, 2022. See: https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power-Equipment-2500-Watt-Technology/dp/B0CRLWJSSX/ref=dp_fod_sccl_1/134-9963084-0325038?pd_rd_w=Z6nsM&content-id=amzn1.sym.783fbbc9-65f4-4105-bb20-37dc32815d16&pf_rd_p=783fbbc9-65f4-4105-bb20-37dc32815d16&pf_rd_r=C3KWVM2SBJ484K0Q57BW&pd_rd_wg=GJSmQ&pd_rd_r=3b8f7d10-4b53-41bc-b17e-e7792cfe7baa&pd_rd_i=B0CRLWJSSX&th=1 I have been very pleased with the operation of this generator, which I have operated only on propane. We carry it in a rear mounted cargo carrier on the LEII. I have actually used the generator more often at our residence in Dallas, TX when we have experienced extended power outages. It easily powers a large chest freezer and a 20+ cubic foot refrigerator/freezer. This generator will run 12-14 hours on one 20 pound tank of propane when supporting these appliances. On gasoline, this generator will operate for about 6 hours, depending upon load. This generator can also be paired with another similar Champion generator OR a larger model for additional capacity. I have no found the need purchase a second generator. Not having to haul gasoline onboard is a major advantage. I adapted the fuel hose on the Champion generator to connect to the low pressure connections on our LEII. The Champion 2500 Watt Dual Fuel Generator powers our Dometic Penguin air conditioner on the LEII. We purchased a Micro-Air EasyStart for the A/C unit as an option on our LEII. The generator will NOT power the Dometic Penguin A/C unit without the Micro-Air EasyStart. I did quite a bit of research prior to purchasing this generator. It costs approximately that of a gas only Honda generator and has produces about the same level of noise as the Honda. I also looked at propane conversions kits for the Honda generators and found these were an additional $250 to $300, AND installing them voided the Honda warranty. I would not hesitate to make the same purchase again, if needed. I see no downside to purchasing from Champion. Regards, Don

Boondocking in Utah. Unfortionatly we had a lot of rain at the biginning.

Almost every time I read a thread here on the Forum or watch a video about these locks I consider "upgrading" my old fashion key jobs. But, then I see a story such as this about being "locked out" or worse - the lock simply will not operate and I try to remind myself of why I like to keep things "simple". Simple seems to fit well with my brain!🤪 Even though I still do the key thing the old fashion way, I do keep a set of keys in both the tow vehicle and the Oliver. Plus I have a couple of extra sets in the event I need to give a key to someone else that is going in a different direction than I am. Bill