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What I just posted in John's Facebook group for Oliver Owners. This does not require a lot of discussion. WARNING: Fake Facebook groups cropping up everywhere! Folks, we have a growing disturbing problem with Facebook (FB) groups, especially, because you are reading this, in regards to owning an Oliver. You may have noticed at least one or two new Oliver-related FB groups crop up lately. From the very first picture posted, from the Oliver group that has the word "Community" in it, there are suspicious postings & members. Now the more legit people who join these fake groups will make the group look more and more legit itself. Our information is being collected, I promise you. I'm not usually an overly suspicious person, but as an active Information Technology (IT) guy who also supports cyber security, I'm seeing more obvious signs of trouble. Even a dumb monkey like me can start to see the issues. Now, I just left that "Oliver Community" group just last night after I had seen enough AI generated material and started to smell bad actors. You can ask any AI out there this question and read for yourself why and how and why this is happening. Just ask it something like this: Are there fake facebook groups being created to collect information on us? I usually have not cared about what is collected on me, as big American businesses are notorious about collecting info. These fake groups are not maintained by American businesses, I promise you that. I have no stake, nor real loyalty, to this group we are in right now. I am not an admin, and frankly, I was once kicked out of the group for a misunderstanding on my part. I was later asked to rejoin due to my loyalty to the OTT owners in general. That's it. I'm sure this will be received like politics. We will be split down the middle 50/50 or at least split 33/33/33. Just be VERY safe out there in this mucky world of social media we have created. This group is managed by real good people. We may not always understand why they do what they do, but that is because you are not trying to keep bad actors out of a private group. It's a fulltime job these days. Some forums of the world have to block entire countries due to the issues developing now. Be safe and "you do you", but you've been warned.

Wife, puppy, and I just bought hull 327, a 2018 LE2, and are bringing her from Arizona to her new home in the Lost Sierras/Lake Davis CA. We’ve owned a coleman pop-up, and a big 5th wheel with slides in our past life… and after TONS of research (including understanding how bomb-proof ocean-crossing fiberglass sailboats are constructed), we couldn’t be more impressed with the quality of the Oliver trailers. Looking forward to seeing ya’ll out there!

"Me do me" means no Facebook whatsoever - problem solved. I just don't see eye-to-eye with Mr. Zuckerberg's vision. There are other ways to communicate with your friends. Thanks for the heads up and continuing to help me affirm my decision.

Hi everyone — I previously did an intro in the introductions section, but my wife and I are new (to us) Oliver owners (about 2 months in). We’ve camped twice so far and already have several trips planned over the next several months, including a lot of boondocking in USFS campgrounds. I've had travel trailers of various forms for about 20 years and we are super excited to now be Oliver owners. I just finished a lithium / inverter / portable solar upgrade on our 2019 Legacy Elite II (Hull 514) and put together a detailed project write-up with photos, wiring approach, parts list, and lessons learned (see attached). The trailer came from the factory without an inverter, no roof solar, and no solar connector. It had two AGM batteries when we bought it. The main goal was a clean, reliable, serviceable install that leverages the existing factory AC/DC wiring/routing and keeps the system simple (including an inline inverter/charger pass-through so the trailer’s AC panel works “like stock,” just with inverter capability). I found great info on this forum as I undertook this project and hope to give back just a little by posting this as a practical reference for anyone planning a similar upgrade — happy to answer questions or share any additional photos/details if it helps. Happy camping!! Lithium Inverter Solar Write-Up.pdf

"The Mayor of Prescott" 😊

Thanks Mike! Yavapai Campground at the Granite Mountain Wilderness Area is a nice spot to visit Prescott. No hairy roads like driving up Thumb Butte Rd last week. It's paved all the way in. There are 21 FS campsites, and only $9/night with the old-fart pass! Sorry @John Dorrer, I'm being the Prescott "Resident Chamber of Commerce" person again! 🤣 Though where is everybody else? There should be a Where's Ollie post, or two, every day of the year! We're in site 16, which is one of two FF sites. It was easy for us to grab this spot, since the park reopened on April 1 and we got there at 9AM (just 20 min from home). Nice to camp for the week and only use a 1/4 tank of diesel with these prices today! Second pic is a view of Granite Mountain from the entry road. Adam and I hiked to the top 10 years ago and I hope to do it one more time before it get's too late for me! 😂

Just wanted to check in and let everyone know the Chill Cube with Heat Pump is now available at United RV Parts in Texas. Looks exactly like the Chill Cube (not low profile). I should have mine installed today! I'm following instructions posted by @jd1923 and everything is going well. I was even able to get the old Dometic off the roof by myself by leaning an 8' step ladder against the street side and carefully sliding it down. Having the top of the step ladder near the edge of the roof made it easy to slowly work it off onto the ladder. The gasket on the bottom of the unit also helps to offer some resistance on the way down. I have the Dometic Penguin II (low hours, works perfectly) on FB Marketplace in Central Florida if anyone needs a replacement. Can't wait to get this Chill Cube fired up!

I repack original bearings and replace seals every two years on our Ollie's original 5200lb axles, we don't tow Ollie as many miles as Mike & Carol. Bearing repack gives me the opportunity to inspect brakes, drums, bearings and races. I try not to let trailer hubs get hot while towing by using engine braking towing down mountain grades. Here's two videos by Trailer Smith, Dexter Nev-R Lube and Bearing Buddy VS. EZ Lube-What's The Difference:

Are they sure it’s kitchen water? Are they adding water to the black tank using the No Fuss Flush fitting? If they are flushing the black tank and have let it get too full and the shower drain valve is closed the water from the black tank can back up in the black tank vent and flow over into the sink drain and rise up through the shower drain and fill the shower pan and could actually overflow the pan and flood the trailer floor. Do not rely on the tank level display when diagnosing water level and drainage problems, or any other time really. I apologize for the “ands” and the run-on sentence. Bill

Had an issue with our pump (2018 LE2) just a few days ago. Thought it would likely be one of the switches. These are (effectively) double throw-single pole switches (there are 3 unused connectors so switches are technically double throw-double pole) in cabin and bath with 2 traveler wires with +12 v in the middle spade connector, so if one combination of switch orientation between the cabin and bath didn’t work the other should of it’s a traveler spade connector disconnecting. I first looked visually at the 15 amp fuse under the dinette and it looked ok. Next morning I tried the different water pump switch combos between cabin and bath to no avail. The switch leds were off all this time. I then pulled the fuse to check for continuity on my multi-meter and it checked out ok. When reinstalling the fuse I heard the pump actuate and the led flickered a few times before turning solid. I think the issue was likely the pressure switch. There are 2 red leads at the front of the pump and I think these are are on opposite poles of the pressure switch and the switch had gotten stuck. The ground wire connection seemed ok so I am convinced it was not the switch spade connectors being loose. Anyway I would have never thought pulling and reinstalling a fuse would remedy the issue. The switches must have been in the on combination for this to happen. Not sure how the leds are wired as they should be lit in either state of the pressure switch (connected/disconnected).

Yeah, cool technology, but we already know the OEM bearing is the Timken Set49. Also, it's safer to only use manufacturer's spec vs. any website content. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-set49 Genuine Timken parts are NOT often "easily accessible" and make sure you're buying from an authorized reseller. For example, say you broke down and were lucky enough to be close to a local Napa. They would sell you a China-made alternative that would take 1-2 days to arrive at the store location, while you're broke down somewhere. Then you have to get it installed. Not many PT Cruisers on the road anymore and in general AP stores only stock parts for new-model cars < 10 years old. I found this entering the 2010 PT Cruiser on Napa Online: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PGBPFW115 Ken and I worked through this when I tested the bearing install procedure (linked in my prior post on page 5). He has replacement bearings, related parts and tools already purchased and he travels with them. I got lucky getting damaged axle parts, so I carry two full bearing hub/drum assemblies in the TV toolbox (I also carry new Timken front hubs for the Dodge Ram). In my case, if a bearing goes bad, I can be back on the road in 1-2 hours! 😎 However buying full assemblies is exorbitant! I truly suggest if this is a concern of your, read the post I made showing bearing removal and replacement. At a minimum, do yourself a favor a buy 2-4 Timken Set49 bearings. Then you'll have the parts you need so that any trailer shop can install them for you. To be very safe, you may want to have extra circlips, nuts and washers. And if you want to DIY, my post details the required toolset.

That also lets you actually use the last 7 gallons of fresh water...

@DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI I would look over that emergency brake away switch VERY carefully for any signs of damage. If the box was warm, or worse, hot, when you pushed the plastic pin back in, it could have melted the pin at the crimp point, essentially cutting off the end of the pin at the narrow point. I had a pin melt, and when next pulled for annual inspection, the "point" of the pin remained inside the box. Then, I got in my truck to find a tractor supply store. They have crap for good emergency brake aways, but in a pinch, they'll do. That's a lot of amps on two pieces of metal in a tiny box. A pretty easy replaceable item, if you're back is not crap like mine. LOL

Seems the problem was that the gray tank was full but for others: On older trailers (mine for example, a 2020) you might have a manual gray tank valve. Pulled out is open allowing the gray tank to vent as water from kitchen sink flows in. If it is closed (pushed in) then water could back up into the shower drain if you run a lot of water in the sink. Also, if you leave the valve open while driving down the road, then gray water could slosh up onto the floor from the shower drain.

We opened a FB account years ago because our kids were on it. They do very little on FB these days and we rarely open it. We never posted pics or personal information. I have a niece that has put her entire life on FB, not good. Mike

It appears we see eye-to-eye on several things! I never created a FB account and once FB became another Fake News outlet, Chris deleted all her content and pics, closed her account. Sorry Oliver Owners on FB, but this is the real OTT Forum! 🤣 We also recently agreed on the need, or lack thereof, for an articulating hitch. And I think the tow vehicles for hulls #113 and #1394 are the only two that carry an extra 35-gal FWT and we both never leave home without two full FWTs! 😎 Chris and I were born and raised in Chicagoland, so "Escape to Wisconsin" was something we did often, all the way up to 1999 when we left the city. Out first trip together was to visit Lake Oshkosh in '92! I say this because we're not likely to tow our Oliver back to your neck of the woods. But when it's time for you to get out of winter weather and travel SW, we would love to meet you! 😂 Best wishes, JD

Here's another picture of Granite Mountain Wilderness Area from Thumb Butte Road, where Adam camped last week. You can hike for years just around town and never do all the trails. Also, 100s of OHV and bike trails. Local hiking and nature orgs created a 54 mile trail that circles Prescott! 😎 https://www.yavapai-trails.org/prescott-circle-trail/

Yep, this is exactly why I have learned to do all maintenance myself on our Oliver. Local shops around here charge $300 per hour too and have months wait to time get in. Not an option.

Here is a photo of the axle tag from one of the axles installed on our trailer last summer by the Alcan folks. Our trailer is hull number 208; 2017 vintage.

As far as I can tell, I’ve made the first automatic leveling system for the Oliver’s Barker stabilizing jacks! Maybe even the first 3-jack leveling system on a travel trailer! It’s simple to operate, safe, and works great! I built the leveling system as a novelty for my own entertainment, so I’m only posting it as a interest item not a recommended project. In reality, manually leveling with the electric jacks is already easy, particularly with a LevelMate, so automatic leveling isn’t really needed. There are even warnings that the jacks are stabilizers, not to be used for leveling. However, I believe the warnings are more about liability than capability, as long as the jacks are used within reasonable limits. I'd been thinking about an auto-leveling project for a long time, but was deterred by the thought of modifying the jacks with fiddly proximity sensors or revolution counters as used in conventional leveling systems. I didn't want to alter the jacks for a DIY project that might not even work. But then it dawned on me. The only time I really needed to know the position of the jacks, is when retracting them to their parked position. I wasn’t interested in returning the tongue jack to the truck hitch hight like some systems offer. So this led to a revelation that automatic leveling could be done with nothing more than current sensors mounted in a control box rather than on the jacks themselves. This was only possible because of the Barker jack’s mechanical clutch. When the jack reaches the end of its travel, the clutch activates with a distinct clack-clack sound. It was likely that clutch engagement would produce a unique current signature that could be used to detect when the jack is fully retracted. A plan was developing, but I needed actual amperage values for proof of concept. Fortunately I had a data logging ammeter, and the chart below illustrates the results for one of rear jacks starting from its fully retracted parked position. The jack was extended through free air until it touched ground and began picking up load, maxing out when the wheel lifted off the ground. Then it was retracted to the parked position until the clutch actuated: I didn’t include the tongue jack chart because it's far less dynamic — it's always under load, and the clutch doesn't normally actuate during leveling. The clutch only comes into play after trailer is hooked up to the TV and the tongue is manually retracted. The amperage results confirmed that current sensors could work, and beyond detecting the parked position, they could also be used to distinguish the different leveling phases: rear jack extension until firm ground contact for stabilizing, and then transition to "roll" leveling if needed. Completion of the rear jack phase could then trigger the tongue jack phase to handle "pitch" leveling. The amperage chart became the basis for the circuit and software design. No proximity sensors. No revolution counting. No permanent modifications — just two wires to each jack, a component box, and a control board. Sounds easy, but this was only just the start of a long process to perfect the system. I hope someone finds this interesting! Cheers! Geoff

Custom Automatic Leveling for the Oliver's Barker Jacks — Part 2 Here is some more detail of the automatic leveling project as it transitioned from an idea to a working prototype. The project evolved from concept with safety and trailer protection as core design priorities. Limitations were built into the software including current-based motor cutoffs and maximum leveling offsets to prevent over-stressing jack capacity and minimized frame stress. On the mechanical side, the design incorporates fail-safe circuits, redundant shutdown methods, and four levels of overcurrent protection. A side benefit is the electronic monitoring of jack condition where abnormal current can reveal lubrication issues, mechanical wear, or circuit degradation before they become catastrophic failures. First step was writing a program script with open source Arduino software, and then uploading it to an ESP-32 microprocessor. The ESP-32 is basically a $10 miniature computer with programmable memory and integrated WiFi module (I might develop a Leveling App later). It receives inputs from a Inclinometer and two 50 amp current sensors, and it sends outputs to a status LED, a piezo buzzer for audible tones, and a 8 channel Darlington driver that converts digital inputs to 12 volts for relay coils. Six 30/40 amp Bosch style automotive relays are wired in an H-Bridge configuration to run the jack motors in forward and reverse. With a basic design plan and software, a test board was needed for proof of concept before anything could be installed in the trailer. The test board included potentiometers to simulate jack current, and LEDs to indicate the jack's up and down movement. It had a status LED, an isolation relay LED, a piezo electric buzzer, and a circuit board mounted with the microprocessor, inclinometer, drivers, and power supply. These standalone plug-in modules are wired together with soldered jumpers on a generic printed circuit board. Testing resulted in many design and software changes as the bugs were worked out. During this time it became evident that the tongue only needed the inclinometer for leveling, no current sensor required. I also realized that the jacks should be run in decreasing intervals with a limited number of leveling attempts before timing out. Another improvement was to run the jacks uninterrupted in free air until they were firmly seated on the ground for stabilization — before starting incremental leveling movements as needed. Current values are easily adjusted if more or less stabilizing pressure is desired. Testing found a flaw with the inclinometer. Thankfully they came in three-packs and I replaced them because they wouldn’t stay calibrated. The inclinometers have accelerometer and gyroscope functions, and it turned out that the accelerometer has known drifting issues. After turning off the accelerometer in the software, it worked great! In the end, the Arduino script grew to over 1,000 lines of code. With a lot of trial and error, a sequence of operation was developed: When the Level button is pressed, the rear jacks lower without interruption until they are seated on the ground in a firmly stabilized position (phase 1). If the trailer is level at this point, then there is no further action and an audible “happy tune” indicates successful level was achieved. If the trailer is not level after phase 1, then the left or right jack is cycled in intervals starting at 1.5 seconds (~1/2” travel) depending on how close to level it is. As the trailer gets closer to level, the interval shortens to account for coasting and fine adjustment to within 0.2 degrees of level. During the roll leveling sequence, a pitch limit of 5 degrees prevents the rear jacks from inducing too much pitch. It's a safeguard that temporarily interrupts roll leveling while it moves the tongue jack to bring pitch back within limits. Phase 2 pitch leveling begins, if needed, after roll level is achieved. When roll and pitch are level, the “happy tune” is played. The system allows up to 20 level correction attempts per axis before declaring unsuccessful leveling with a “sad tune.” The operator can stop the leveling at anytime with the On/Off switch or by re-pressing either momentary button. The “Retract” function proved difficult to program because of the mechanical clutch. Originally it was programed to shut off when the mechanical clutch actuated in the parked position, which is 13 amps. This didn’t work because the jacks had a current spike when coming off load, and there were oscillating current spikes during the clack-clack of the clutch that caused shutdown before before a clack was heard. These spikes hadn’t shown up in the time compressed current chart, but they were picked up by the current sensors. This was resolved in the software with a current delay when coming off load, and a longer delay when the clutch actuated so a few reassuring clack-clacks could be heard for audible confirmation that the jacks were fully parked. The leveling system was designed so that the jacks manual switches could remain fully functional. However, the H-Bridge relay configuration reverses the motor polarity for the up or down direction, and that could cause a direct path to ground when using the manual switches. To prevent this, I used a normally open relay to isolate the ground when the leveling system is not being used. I used a single 250 amp generic lawnmower starter relay on a common ground bus for all 3 jacks. It seemed reasonable. .. what could possibly go wrong? Hope this is still interesting…Cheers! Geoff Please excuse poor photos, I just didn't take very many!

A 2' level does the job. Set on the rear bumper for side to side. Add levelers as needed, chock and disconnect. I take the 2' level up against the belly band and raise or lower to get level Actually a good idea to have the tongue raised slightly to allow flow in the tanks toward the back. Very simple

Yes, as Mike explained and as John wrote nicely in two short sentences. Perhaps you did not see bubbles in the gray waste since there was enough gray water to break down the soap, kill the bubbles, which did not occur in your black waste. For a fact, black and gray waste are two independent systems, except for the venting of sewer gases as @Townesw illustrated above. However, the vents are at a height, a couple of feet taller, where the cross-over of liquids simply could not occur. Gray water would fill the shower floor and overflow into the cabin well before the height of these vents could be reached.

Both sinks and shower drain are plumbed to the gray tank. The toilet drains into the black tank only.

Yes, our new garage has only GFCI protected outlets. We are able to plug our Oliver into them during storage by changing the Xantrex settings (specifically #28 to 15 or less) and it does not trip the GFCI. I think the OP has a bad adapter or faulty GFCI. He also needs to manage his loads in the Oliver before plugging into that 15A circuit via the Xantrex settings.

It appears you are plugging into a 15A GFCI outlet in your barn, and this outlet blows. If so, this has nothing to do with the Oliver except that it is pulling more than 15A. @Steph and Dud B mentioned this above. A 15A household circuit may not be enough to handle the load internal to the Oliver. Also, don't ever use a GFCI outlet as a source for shore power as they are designed to blow in milliseconds. Throw ALL the 120VAC breakers in your Oliver panel under the dinette seat. Connect shore power to another household circuit. Not a GFCI outlet and if you have a 20A circuit choose that over a 15A. Many of us have installed proper 30A outlets where we park our Olivers. Something to think about, relatively simple to install or hire an electrician. After connected to a proper circuit. Turn on your 30A main breaker and then one at a time turn ON and OFF each other breaker. When ON see if the named appliance is working that is connected to that breaker. I don't know enough about GFCI outlets, but I'll bet @Snackchaser does! Hopefully, Geoff will chime in. Using a GFCI outlet as a shore power connection could be your sole issue.

You should have these testers to check the shore power before you plug into your trailer. You have been asked where your trying to plug in, home, campground, 30amp, 120, 120 with GFCI. You should never plug your trailer anywhere without testing the shore power.

It "blows the circuit on the shore socket." What exactly blows? Does the 30A breaker on the pedestal blow? If so, you have a dead short in your shore power cable, the receptacle, or in the EMS (given you have one, more info below). The GFCI is after the fact. If wiring past the GFCI get a short, it will trip and all outlets are after a 15A circuit breaker. The jacks are 12VDC, so running off battery. If your jack has a short the yellow-jacketed 30A 12VDC fuse will blow. These items cannot be your issue. Do you have an EMS with a display? The display might be in the attic. If so, when you plug into shore power check the display for an error code. The display shows 4 readings for a couple seconds each. It shows voltage present and Hz, amperage being used, and error codes. If you see E0, it means no errors. If you have anything but E0, you have an issue with incoming power. The error code definitions are on the cover of the EMS. This is a picture of our EMS and our display (I installed ours in the trunk, readout in picture is showing 123V actual). We'll know more when you answer my first question and your EMS status...

Not sure about your opinion....I had it repaired by the Girard service center. The awning motor did not burn up. It still operated forward and reverse. The issue according to the Girard tech was the "brake/engagement sprocket" located on the end of the motor. This "sprocket/motor" is made/sold as a unit....they chose to replace the motor unit. I went with their advice. When the work was completed, they ran the awning in and out a few times to show me it was extending and closing correctly and how to adjust it if necessary. They did not mention any kind of "rest period". Stevecr

The latest and greatest Battle Born saga: Will Prowse’s response to Battle Born’s technical note confirming their batteries are working perfectly!

Great to read your thorough report. The Oliver really is a dream. Happy Trails!

You might want to look into Coy's mobile tracking solar set-up that several Oliver Owners are using. Hopeful these owners will chime in and provide info on contacts and how the system works. With your set-up that could be a game changer.

I just removed a ScotchLok under the pantry where a brake wire was extended, YET, was as tight as a piano wire. Discovered before I replaced the final torn up axle/brake wire. One less ScotchLok. Quite difficult to work under that pantry.

For those who have never used "Grok," I have provided a sample below. The thing I find so wonderful about Grok is the ability to ask a common language question about a hard to understand subject and get an answer you can use. If something confuses you, you simply type a followup on the same form saying something like: "Please explain XYZ more, I am not getting it. Grok then continues. The below screen shot is what Grok gave me when I asked it to give me the exact match of Timken bearing to the Dexter Neverlube bearing (serial number from my D52 build sheet. Have fun.

Sounds about right for the drop in my truck mpg.

We only have a couple of thousand or so miles on ours and so far absolutely no issues. I typically stop every couple of hours to check bearing and brake temperatures and the temperature is more consistent than with the older bearings. I do carry two spare bearings and the tools to replace them myself anywhere. The bearings are easily accessible at most any auto parts store as they were used on the 2010 PT Cruiser front wheels. I believe that they were also used on many various foreign cars as well. Obtaining them is probably not the issue rather it would be finding someone competent and with the tools to replace them without damaging them.

Thanks for posting those. Have a number of his videos but not the one with the bearing buddy what ever that is.

I never had a FB account until 5 years ago when a boss decided it was an easy way to curcimvent manage rules dealing with unions. So she posted al sort of changes happening at work on a private FB Group. The Hospital also had thier own FB group which was part info, part PR propaganda. I changed departments and removed them. I do use Marketplace, sometimes good/ many times bad (still on craigslist). I have been on the FB Oliver group. There is not a lot of structure to FB and does not lend intensely to the structure our forums does. The only thing that is real positive for the Oliver FB group is that it is the really the only way to list an Oliver for sale or parts for sale to people that are truly interested in Olivers since Oliver made regulation changes to the Forum.

Update. We got the Sierra EV last August, and picked up the Oliver at the factory in March. You can read a trip report here of our 6k mile trip https://www.fiberglassrv.com/threads/meet-sparky-the-electric-oliver.2190937/ There were some sharp opinions here about EV's, you can read the details over there that it far exceeded my expectations. Zero problems. We drove for hours through wilderness with no infrastructure and boondocked - not an issue (somebody here had some weird theory about that). Even I had trouble believing how well it worked in these conditions, in fact it liked the (slower speed) backcountry better than, say I40 in a windstorm. It's the regen you see, but surprisingly it regenerated (captured) more energy than I'm used too - all that trailer energy too, backcountry across the Sierras, it just gained so much energy on the way down from the peaks. It just drove, and drove and drove ... not to mention, while the 'generator symphony' would start up in some campgrounds, we silently topped off from the truck. I've towed plenty with ICE, and between Supercruise, the torque, the power, the spare campground power, the silence, I'll say EV towing is now better than ICE towing. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it, but to each his own. But enough of the drive train - who really cares? Pick your poison. The trouble was all with the Ollie. Us getting used to it that is. The composting toilet took getting the hang of (you can read the details over there). The Xantrex was a bit of a learning curve, because there's so many generations. The present generation can't be reset if you put a bad setting in. But the tech support at Xantrex was great, it was easily fixed by simply plugging into shore power. Oliver owners are indeed very friendly in person, but Steve if you're out there, sorry we couldn't chat but ya gotta appreciate, it was getting dark and the we just got the thing and needed to set up! 😅 Mark and Sandy - enjoyed talking to you, hope you're making good use of the carrier. Finally, of interest to this group; I have precise information about the Oliver aerodynamics. It isn't marketing fluff! In good conditions (no wind etc) I get a 35% towing loss @60 mph, this is phenomenal. And reminder; towing loss has NOTHING to do with the drive train. It's exactly the same for EV versus ICE. So you piston pounders are also getting this same loss. Otherwise, we love our Ollie. Even my skeptical family. Sure bigger would be great, but that's a slippery slope.

Is the trailer level? When we park, we level and keep the front 1/2"+ higher. This allows full usage of the FWT and our heads are just higher than our feet in bed. If the front is a couple inches low, water from the kitchen drain would flow forward.

If you extend it, you have a safety net.

Frankly - I'm surprised that there are that many with the second awning. Bill

If her gray tank is full then water draining from the kitchen sink could cause backed up water to flow back into the bathroom and out of the shower drain. I don’t know of any connection between the gray tank and the fresh water system. Gray tank inputs are from the kitchen and the bathroom, one each. No fresh water inputs. Mike

I just picked up another new PD5110010Q to keep on-hand in parts list. I know I’ll come across another old style soon enough. It’s a quick change-out.

Our original PD ATS went out last year, a burnt wire or two. I decided to bypass the ATS. One cable now goes from the side 30A receptacle to the PI EMS and then to our Victron MP2 inverter and finally to the 120VAC breaker panel. We never use the 30A inlet up front, since we never use a generator. So no need for an ATS! We’ve had 3 RVs and the PD 5100 had failed in all three. If you must have an ATS, it’s time to upgrade to a better product!

Hello to the Oliver being towed by a black GMC that was behind us on I-81 South in northern Tennessee today! Beautiful travel day.

My original was subbed out by PD as a warranty claim. Now the second one has the issue with the Neutral leads both in the box and from the street side. I'll be buying a new version of this box PD5110010Q.

Not all Oliver TTs use the same axle. Our older hull was fitted with a 50" bracket length and most others have 50.5" (note the 50.00 marking on my labels). Since the axles on our Oliver were unique, Alcan took a picture of my original axle label for the custom order, copied all the specs except went from D35 to D52 for 5200 LB axles. They only make Nev-R Adjust and Nev-R Lube axles now, so the rest is the same. So, the part numbers for our hull will NOT be what you need. Likely if a Forum member that upgraded recently with 50.50" axles posted a picture of their label, it would be what you need. But to be certain, take a picture of your axle label and then call Dexter Customer Service. They are not bad to talk to and they will give you a proper part number for your D52 upgraded axles. I'd want to be certain spending $2K plus shipping! HF stands for Hub Face, the measurement between hub faces. SC or Spring Center is the distance between leaf spring centers. These numbers must remain the same for the new D52 axles. Our before & after axle labels to follow:

I'd prefer not having another maintenance item, but thanks to Mike, next time our Oliver is home for service I will certainly open this junction box, remove all wire nuts and electrical tape, strip wires down to good copper, or replace wiring if necessary, and use butt connectors! Wire nuts and Wago connectors are not automotive grade! I've never used Wago products and likely never will. Wire nuts are for 120VAC residential solid-core wires. Wire nuts will not hold stranded wire effectively! Butt connectors are designed for stranded wire in automotive 12VDC systems to hold properly with movement/vibration. Another No-No is using ScotchLoks to add a wire. When I need to connect a third wire, I use a butt connector one size larger. Fold the wire to double thinkness on the side that has one wire. I had a boss years ago who said during a team meeting, "Anybody using ScotchLoks in installations will no longer be working for us!" OTT uses them often too and I remove them as needed. 😒

Anyone with the Suburban hot water tank should check their power connections annually. Had I checked I could have caught the issue before the meltdown. I’m sure it’s been going on for years. One screw is all that is holding the cover on. Mike