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The Oliver Porch Lights are bright for a dark campsite, so we rarely use them. But if you need to light up the area they work great. I've often wondered, why isn't there lighting on the front and rear of the Oliver? I asked a year ago about replacement lights for our OEM Porch Lights and just purchased some recently. OTT should install these lights in all four directions. I would have done one up front too, but running wire would be difficult. I got something else for up front, more on that later. https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319 I carefully measured the four Porch Lights OTT installed, as the distance from hull belly line, which btw holds a tape measure nicely, up to centerline of the Porch Light at the mounting screws. Turns out they were all installed at different heights +/- 3/4". As a special bonus, this light is 1/4" off from front to the rear mounting screws. My new Rear Porch Light, I promise is the straightest of the bunch! 🤣 It's not easy to choose the best spot to drill into the exterior of your hull, this one especially. I cut away some of the white insulation in the back of the attic. I used a 2-ft piece of metal fish-tape with the ends curled back, running it down the inside of the back exterior hull. Repeatedly, it measured 12" form the bottom of the OLIVER taillight to where the fish-tape hit the top of the rear window frame. It measured 12" so I figured I should go 10" max. Looking from the outside, there is a flat fiberglass frame around the rear window. Above that, the top rear is convex. I had to find the best spot so that the approx. 8" x 1 1/2" light would sit flat in both directions. If not water would get behind it. I drilled a 1/4" hole centered to the window, so the light is just above the flat frame area of the rear window. I soldered and heat shrink extra length of wire to the light. If they only attached 18" of wire! Offset the splices so that they would fit nicely into the drilled hole. It wasn't an easy pull but a few ins and outs and the light pulled flush (would be easier with 2 people, one in one out). I eyeballed the light level to the window frame. I wanted to VHB the light housing vs. drilling two mounting holes but the design of the light would not allow for it. They do not include hardware. Found the stoutest 1" course thread screws that would fit the openings and I drilled 6/94" holes after marking the centers. Wiring? I wanted to add the new rear light to the Side Porch Lights (streetside). However, I could not find the switch leg in the back corner of the attic and I did not want to remove all the stuff out of the kitchen cabinets. But that would be the right way to do it. Cabinets empty, you can easily run wiring up to the main switch panel. Our hull had a rear camera and a separate switch to power it. I removed the camera a year ago, so I'm using this separate switch with existing wiring. I copied something Geoff did, where he used a Sharpie to black out the word "Awning." Mine has a thin cut piece of black tape over the word "Camera" so it just reads "Rear" now! 🤣 I had to wait patiently for dusk and dark tonight! The hull looks great with the new Rear Porch Light to compliment the side lights. And finally, it alone lights up the yard! 😎

I’ll chime in here. Former Elite II owner here, and also a former Ford Expedition owner. I still check out the owner forums to see what’s new, and because we do miss our travels with our Ollie #461 that is now with a new owner, as we have moved on to some overseas travel as our next adventure in life. Yes, it’s more than safe to tow your Oliver with the Expedition with the factory Tow Package. We had almost the identical setup to yours. Our 2017 Expedition 4X4 was called the EL version (extended length, now called Max). The Ollie is well within the towing specs of the Expedition. It’s a body on frame construction SUV that shares a lot with the Ford F-150 truck. You WILL need to use the Andersen weight distribution hitch. The Ford factory towing package and the factory trailer brake controller worked very well. Use the Tow/Haul mode when towing. There are a couple of cons though: After a couple of years we did find the limited payload capacity became an issue as we started carrying more camping equipment for extended trips. The Ford Eco-Boost turbocharged V6 was adequate but it really had to rev very high in mountainous areas going uphill, and the engine temp tended to get pretty hot. We eventually upgraded to an F-250 to get much higher payload capacity and also eliminate the need for the weight distribution hitch. Enjoy your Ollie!

My 2023 has the same outlet, and I think Tom is correct in that it is for AC power to the fridge. I used that outlet with a 12 ga extension cord to supply power to my exterior AC outlet under the folding table. I tapped into the fridge's 12V DC power for the cigarette outlet.

I Just recently had CGI do the annual touchup on my camper and they told me about a new service they are offering. It is a durable protective gloss film that they apply to the front of the camper. Might be a nice thing to have if you like getting off the beaten path (gravel roads, ALCAN Hwy, etc.), it would help protect the gelcoat from chips and make it easier to keep clean as well. Lasts 5-7 years or more typically and is generally easy to remove/replace. Not cheap but makes life easier and protects your investment. Short video link: IMG_8147.MOV

I am glad the CGI crew is now offering PPF on the front of Olivers. We have had XPEL PPF on the “blast zones” on the of our Oliver to include the dog house, aka LP surround and all the way down each side under the bottom edges of both sides of our Oliver. We have had it for several years now and it has really worked as advertised. Shortly after we took delivery of Hull #634 we had 10 mil XPEL paint protection installed. Here is a photo of our installer working his magic. The standard paint protection used on most cars and trucks today is 8 mil. The 10 mil material is naturally thicker and it’s really tough material. It’s presently the thickest p/p made by XPEL. So far, it’s held up great with no damage to our gelcoat. It’s fairly expensive to have installed, but well worth it in our experience. We use a product called Plexus to keep it clean and polished up. Our installers business name is Sun Stoppers located in Cornelius, NC. Also, we have PPF on all our vehicles. The 8 mil still offers robust protection from road rash, missiles etc. https://www.xpel.com This same fella installed 8 mil XPEL PPF on our entire Super Duty just after we purchased it in 2021. It was well worth the money and has kept our TV paint chip free 5 yrs later. If you trade vehicles every few years it may not be worth the expense. We tend to keep our cars and trucks for the long haul. I recently found and purchased a one owner, NC dealer serviced 2020 Toyota TRD Pro. It is in really excellent condition. So I took it to my XPEL PPF tech to let him work his magic. I could not be happier with his work as he exceeded my expectations. It’s all about the install and the installer. A few things to note: if you take it to an installer make sure you don’t have any paint chips on the areas you want protected by PPF. If any installer wants to cover areas on your truck or car with PPF with existing paint chips…in my opinion, you have the wrong installer. Find an installer that does high-end Teslas, Lexus, Benz, Lambos, Bentleys etc. After having a complete paint correction done, I had the headlights, front and rear bumpers, trim below the headlights, the painted grill surround, windshield pillars all covered in 8mil XPEL PPF. The prior owner already had the entire hood and mirror caps covered. The larger the surface area you cover, the higher the cost. I like XPEL PPF as it is hydrophobic and just repels dirt and dust with ease. You can also ceramic coat over XPEL PPF. ** Prices vary on installation, so its best if you’re considering PPF to get a quote from your local installer. My XPEL PPF installers shop 3 weeks ago. I also had XPEL 50% tint installed on the interior front w/s. A game changer in reducing heat and dangerous UV rays into the cabin. Note; check your State DMV on tint % laws. Post PPF install.

I had Suncoast Designers rebuild three of my windows several years ago and they did a good job. They remove the entire window, completely disassembled it, disassembled the individual sections, fixed the seal, and reassembled everything and put the whole assembly back in the trailer. They rebuilt both the fixed and the movable sections in order to provide a complete lifetime warranty. Complete disassembly of the frame requires the astragal to be removed by drilling out the pop rivets and replaced with gaskets and pop rivets again. If only the moving panel needs to be fixed, that is easily removed by removing the plastic/rubber track material first then the window just lifts out. After they removed, rebuilt and replaced the windows I had to reseal the frame to trailer myself. Not inexpensive but at the time I had mine done they had a lifetime warranty. If you can rebuild them soon, before any etching takes place between the panels, they can reuse the original glass. They have a fairly large parking lot and nearly every spot has electricity and water so that you can stay in your camper. Also, there used to be a guy at Quartzsite during the big tent rv show that would rebuild windows but you had to remove your own windows and deliver them to him. I have never met him but I know of a couple of Oliver owners who have had windows fixed by him.

I took a trip to Oliver on Tuesday with a prospective buyer. While we looking at the 2027 model the salesman started the Dometic Freshet, It was almost as quiet as the Truma AC in my Elite ll. We could easily converse with it running.

It had lost prime. I connected city water to boondock connection. Turned on water for 20 seconds or so. Connected my boondock hose to boondock port. Turned on pump. Sucked up a gallon of water lickety split.

Assuming the valve set up is correct, and the pump screen is not plugged, them many have found that the boondock hose seal was worn or the boondock hose fitting was not FULLY and FIRMLY tightened. As a result, that connection sucks air and little or no water moves on board. Suggest double checking that connection and raising the boondock container as high as you can so reduce the hydrostatic head to the pump. This will assist in getting the pump to self prime. Ours takes about a minute a gallon to boondock onboard. Hope this helps GJ

Eagle Nest State Park , New Mexico park has been remodeled and is very nice, sites are electric only water fill available, no dump station cloudy and rainy and cold weather has us a little wet super nice Vietnam War Memorial Park nearby Remembering all of the men that served and the young men that never came home 🙏

Finally got around to fixing the problems that I identified in my original post almost 2 years ago. I used a small drum sander on a cordless drill motor to make a cutout for the part of the accumulator that was rubbing. This also quieted a vibration heard during pump operation While I had the drum sander out I enlarged the cutouts above both rear jack manual operation studs so that I can now get the manual crank on them if needed I placed a couple of spare bolt protectors on some 1/2 inch nuts and threaded them on the exposed bolt ends where they contacted the heater duct I know that these are really simple fixes but they might help someone that doesn’t know that the problems even exist. Bill

On to Clayton Lake State Park, near Clayton New Mexico first boondocking since we left home April 18 We were enjoying the COE sites at $12.50 per night with power and water gotta practice our energy and water management now Too much rain has been a little depressing, finally saw the sun today

Wild Bills RV and trailer park Boise Oklahoma overnight stop fantastic museum next door do not pass up the museum !!!

I carry a backup pump and have had to use it to fill through the normal fill port (not the rear suction port.) If you ever want to build a backup pump system...here's our article on that topic. Backup Water Pump Hope some of the comments like the one above about checking for air leaks have helped. Let us know your outcome.

I wonder what the "deck/wall" starts to look like after years of people walking on it. Can you screen that wall area at all when that is down? If not, I don't see myself keeping my wall open while camping.

I've considered adding a forward facing light to the front jack housing using the existing light switch.

With the inside work complete I went back to the roof area, trimmed the oozed butyl, wiped with isopropyl alcohol again, and taped the area to be caulked off leaving about a quarter inch gap from the edge of the flange in the front and rear and about an 1/8 inch gap on the sides where the caulk would be the shortest. I applied the caulk 3 times, wiping it off the first two times, reapplying the tape and recaulking each time because I didn’t like the way it looked. I finally left it alone because I decided that if I kept messing with it I would keep screwing it up and I was starting to get hungry and it was close to supper time. This picture shows the fan after the oozed butyl was trimmed back. It shows the built-up butyl in front of and behind the fan to keep the flange straight. This next picture is after the ASI 335 was applied. Notice that the black seal is straight, not bowed down at the front and rear due to having the flange pulled down to touch the roof. The black seal must remain straight so that the cover will seal properly when closed. I applied the ASI 335 to the screws but didn’t like the way they looked so I wiped it off. I had applied ASI 335 to the screw holes and the screws were twisted in through up to 3 layers of butyl so I figured they were sealed well enough. The caulk job wasn’t perfect but it looks good from the ground. The ripples are from my hand shaking after going through the process 3 times before finally accepting that it wasn’t going to be perfect. I actually like the stepped edge of the caulk versus a feathered edge because I think the feathered edge of caulk doesn’t hold up well after repeated washing, drying, and waxing. We’ve pulled the trailer through wind and rain for 1350 miles and it has remained closed and hasn’t leaked. I can’t completely say that it is quieter than the original Ventline fan but it does not have the rattle that it did. ASI 0240 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/asi-0240/ ASI 335 https://meridianadhesives.com/products/?product_search=335 It looks like ASI has two versions of the 335. The stuff I used looked like this Good luck on your installation. Bill

Interesting, but not interested. Oliver is simple, well designed for the space available. It is not full of gadgetry. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). I think I'm showing my age. SkyDream is just the opposite. The only thing they have in Common is they are made out of Fiberglass. Probably half the places I camp the deck would useless due to thing being in the way. Also in the Pacific North West (PNW) I would worry about leaks. Although when I saw the newest walk through video on the new LEII, I had reservations over the awning with the solar panels on top. It is great having that much extra charging power. I don't think the longevity of these flexible panels would come near the useful life span of the solid mounted roof top panels. Replacing the awning I'm sure would be very expensive. I have trouble getting the regular awning clean and dry in the PNW due to the 7-8 months of rain. When I do have the opportunity to roll out awning and clean and let it dry completely the Oliver and Awning ends up blocking the whole driveway. So it has to be a planned project. I do pack a small Stihl blower and a ladder so I try to blow off the pine needle/leaves/twigs off of the top before finally rolling it up for travel.

Picture below shows old Ventline fan removed and the roof area cleaned up. I used ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic scrapers. I cleaned up the edges of the original holes with a chamfer bit in a drill motor. The factory didn’t align the old vent with the hole very well and didn’t drill and chamfer the holes which resulted in chipped gelcoat. In this picture the pilot holes (1/16”) for MaxxFan Dome are located and drilled. I wanted the screws to be perpendicular to the MaxxFan mounting flange not the roof line so I tried to drill them at the correct angle to the surface of the roof. I did a lot of test fitting inside and out. The outside fan, the middle sleeve, and the interior trim ring must fit together well for this retrofit to work out right. I used a carpenter’s pencil and 2 rubber bands from of a bunch of broccoli to hold the sleeve in place while I got the pieces located just right. I did this before I marked the holes for the flange. New pilot holes are enlarged to 1/8 inch and chamfered Test fit the screws to make sure they are not too tight. If they are too tight you risk twisting the screw in two in the hole. If the test fit is too tight go up to 9/64 inch bit. I used a 1/16 inch drill for a pilot then enlarged with a 1/8 inch drill and finished with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. Be sure to use sharp bits and drill SLOW. I wanted the flange to be straight, not pulled down to fit the curved roof. I applied one layer of butyl all the way around the bottom of the flange. I then applied 2 short strips between about 10:00-2:00 and 4:00- 8:00. I again applied 2 even shorter strips between 10:30-1:30 and 4:30-7:30. I tried to build the butyl up in the places where the widest gaps would occur, that is the front and back of the fan. I wiped the mounting location with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry and filled the old and new screw holes with ASI 335 and set the fan in place using a couple of screws inserted through the flange and butyl for alignment. The black button on the handle goes toward the front of the trailer. Work the wires and splice connectors into the space between the hulls while inserting the fan assembly into the hole in the roof. Tighten each screw down a little at a time and try to keep from distorting the flange. I would tighten the screws and leave them for a while to let the butyl push out then I would tighten them a little more until I got the flange sitting like I wanted it to sit and then left the butyl to do what it wanted to for a while. While the butyl was oozing I went inside the trailer and placed the sleeve back in the hole and made sure the upper edge was against the bottom of the fan and the notch in the sleeve for the wire retainer was in place and using a pencil I marked a line around the sleeve where it exits the curved ceiling. I drew another line 0.35” below this line to account for the interior trim ring and cut the sleeve to this line using a pair of heavy shears and a razor knife and finished to fit with a sanding block. I attached the trim ring and tightened the screws enough to pull the ring up to conform to the curvature of the ceiling.

A day to remember and a day to not forget.

my 2c That Dometic cabin heater style exhaust can have issues at high elevations I believe, there's a high elevation exhaust you should install when in the mountains (according to videos I've seen on this type - may not be true for this model). I've got an unused one if 2027 owners want one 🙂 "Soft main cabin lights" - did they change that? Anyhow actinic bright overheads on the main cabin fan, I'd rather do without Ironically they show the new solar awnings in partial shade which takes down the whole panel, unless they have a sectioned panel with micros (unlikely). I think getting to deploy these and work will be the main issue. Anyhow I'm surprised at how well that 400W does, doing 1.2kWh on a good day easy Why did they change the front (and rear?) jack? Personally I prefer the old one, 500 lb upgrade isn't much to speak of and not font of bubble switches. The older one looks better and more businesslike IMO More accurate tank readings is a big plus Mentioned before I'm not fond of the 'fully open' style new window. Looks like you have to open the screens potentially letting bugs in (and they'll do it!), plus two handed operation. Fully open is nice for a house but don't see the need here, just IMO Anyhow looks like a great trailer as usual and it's not sour beans because I bought a 26, but full honestly I do prefer this years model, except on the tank monitering

Fixed! Thanks to all you guys especially @Tom and Doreen All you guys on this forum are so much help.

Well maybe it was done in some past year but AFAIK 2026 is unique in that it I think is the only one with ‘crack open’ flush mount windows and roller shades, with valances on the top. Plus the long running Truma integrated system. One year only and boom - take it all out and go to a fully open window with new (presumably custom Oliver designed) shade frame. And too all new appliances. And yes the 2027 windows look like the same ones in the 2026 just with a different opening mechanism. This year's model opens a couple inches from a single handed center crank. Next year it looks like you open all the shades (including bug shade!) to access two side props in a two handed operation. So none of that at night half asleep. But the window does a 1/8 or 1/4 open. Otherwise it looks like the same window which is not recessed and overlays the windows frame and shell. It’s zero issue. Not sure there’s any more glass protection slightly recessed as previously or overlay as now. On the road debris will follow the air flow regardless. If anything recessed will create a slight low pressure pulling it in with vortices and such. Anyhow the only protection is the present overlay system as that protects the more vulnerable frame and especially gasket. It’s maintenance free whereas the present one has weep holes and such. I love the new window system and was ecstatic when I heard it was coming on the year I happened to be buying. It was long on my list, Escape pioneered this in eggs and I learned about the style there (except they use acrylic windows). For Oliver it completes the ‘marine style’ design. The only exposed gaskets they have now are the 120V socket and a few odds and ends like the roof gubbins.

Stealth Satin XPEL PPF with Gloss on Carbon fiber roof and black trim.

Good to hear that CGI offers PPF as part of their services. We had our Oliver ceramic coated by CGI after we took delivery at the factory. CGI polished out all the swirl marks that were left by the factory and then applied the ceramic coating that has held up well over the last two years. When we got back home I had XPEL 10mm PPF installed on the lower front of the trailer (similar to how Patriot did his) by a local installer. It has definitely helped protect the fiberglass from impacts. We would have used CGI for the PPF if we could have, so the front of the trailer would have been protected on the drive home.

Probably talking about this place- Suncoast Designers. Haven't used them myself, but I have heard good things about them. They provide a lifetime guarantee to the original owner too.

Rally Early Registration is open and saves you $ as price will go up later. Rally link: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/ See Jason on the Morning Coffee Youtube just released...he also discusses the Rally Registration and Fee's in the video.

I assume you are trying to fill your fresh tank from a "container" using your rear boondocking port to suck in water through the on board pump. Q) Was the pump able to pump any water out of your tank before you started? It may have lost prime. If you lose prime you can often get it to reprime by either removing and checking the water filter (near the pump) or by opening and closing each of the valves and ending back on the boon docking configuration. Our 2019 Has this Valve Configuration...not sure if it's the same for you but just as a cross check for sucking in thru our rear port.

I don't take the room to carry a ladder. With an old metal milk crate, I can reach up to our awning safety strap. Not going on the roof for anything! And for your dipstick and anything in the engine bay or an open truck bed, ya gotta get on of these! Somebody linked this in another post and I bought one. We always put it on our curbside rear truck wheel which allows Chris to climb up and reach in for cooking equipment. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q8TWI/

This is great, there's more than enough light! Notice there's a shadow on the close section of the truck bed. It's from the deck plate hatch. Those with newer hulls would not have this issue since the hatch is now placed below. The light just needs to be an inch taller. The bracket that comes with the light is so short, it only lifts the light 1/4". I have some ideas for this...

Alternatively, I bought three solar motion lights for camp security and general outdoor lighting. Once camp is setup, they are staged forward facing on the propane tank housing, rearward facing on the spare tire cover, and usually on a picnic table or other strategic location. I instantly have light when and where I need it, and a deterrent to unwanted visitors!

It actually looks very good in your pictures, so must look perfect from the ground. Job well done and an excellent detailed write-up! 😎 Too bad OTT doesn't make a small flat area for the bathroom fan in their fiberglass molds (inner and outer hulls). It would make for a better fit and make this job easier on all of us!

I realized I did not take a picture of the installed Rear Porch Light in the daylight so I did that today. I kept the black rubber seal that OTT was removing since they were causing streaks with age. The rubber looks to be good quality, not like the rubber surround on the Furrion 30A receptacles that really streaked badly. If it streaks later I'll simply remove it then, but at this time I didn't want to mess with sealant. If I do add a rear camera, it would be for security purposes while camping vs. having eyes when backing up. I would not mount it rooftop where OTT did, but surface mount something below the OLIVER taillight and above the new Rear Porch Light. We usually have the TV down and the rear window shade closed, so it's not easy to look to the rear. Either way, it will be nice to have light back there when needed. Got my front light done today. Pictures coming soon! 😎

We use 200w Renogy panels when dry camping or boon docking for more than 3 days in one place. See our article. External Solar Kit Details - Hull 505 We've found that it's helpful when the trailer is shaded by tree's and we want to keep things topped off for longer stays. CS

The Boerne Community Concert Band performed a concert in the town square yesterday evening. All patriotic songs, marches and songs of each branch of service. Also a nice rendition of Taps for our fallen heroes. It was a good turnout, lots of camping chairs and good weather. Small town USA. Happy Memorial Day! Mike

Lamar, sad to hear of your troubles! I have no idea how those stoves are wired, but they should be GFIC protected (Ground fault interrupter circuit). Those can trip for numbers of reasons. It could have its own GFIC receptacle under the cabinet somewhere, or it could be fed from an another GFIC receptacle. I'd check all the AC receptacles to see if they are GFIC and if they are tripped. Don't forget the one above the kitchen counter and the outdoor plug. If you find one tripped that won't reset, let us know for further investigation. Also check the AC wiring diagram in your manual, it should show whether the stove circuit is GFIC protected, and give clues where to look. The stove wouldn't be related to the 12v outlets. If you're talking about the USB outlets, they might have a tiny pushbutton switch on the front of them. The cigarette lighter type of 12v outlets are notorious for having the wire terminal pop off the back, but unlikely for that to happen to both of them. If the fuse is okay, then I'd take a close look at whatever you're testing them with. Good luck and let us know what you find. Geoff

Good idea! You could, but isolate it from the TV so you don't end up with a back-feed condition. Just use a DPDT switch wired to break the TV circuit while energizing the back-up lights from the trailer battery, and vice-versa. Geoff

Nope, doesn’t happen. The truck was absolutely coated with goo several times and the Ollie nose, but the windows literally get nothing, not even any dirt to speak of. The front edge of the outdoor power socket and edge of the Truma door get it though. The windows have been trouble and maintenance free in over 3k miles. Pro tip to make them even more maintenance free is to SiO2 them. Water beads and runs off beautifully too, I use Griots Garage SiO2 window treatment. It’s not as serious as a full body coat, less concentrated, but it’ll last 3-6 months. Hey even the Secret Service uses it on the Beast.

Thanks Dan for linking this video! I don't look much at the new models and this is a nice presentation, just 7 minutes long! Also no sour beans here, from someone who spent 2 years restoring a 2016 model! We will not be a new Oliver customer, just continue to upgrade and fully enjoy ours. They are really going with a Dometic A/C?!? 🤣 In all these years, still at the bottom of this learning curve. Looks like all the Truma issues will be behind OTT going forward. I'd have to use the awning more than 5 times in 2 years with all that solar up there! I wonder how practical this will be? Must be a heavy awning! We need all LP appliances to work effectively in altitudes up to 10K ft, a must for Colorado travel and elsewhere in the Rockies. 20A on a built-in DC-DC charger, but using the 12 AWG trailer wiring? OMG, you're not going to get 20A and if you do be worried about the wiring! I'll keep our Victron Orion 50A charger, that averages +40 Ah every hour towing. One very knowledge Forum member argued that the 4 AWG wire I used may be too light! You might get +10A on average with this configuration. This leads to OTT sticking with the Xantrex and Lithionics brands. This is not new! Almost everybody on this forum that has added or replaced an inverter has gone to the Victron Multiplus, most with the MP2. I do remember reading one post where a Xantrex was used to replace a FAILED Xantrex. Given the failure, I would have changed brands, but I believe it was chosen to simplify the installation with like kind. There are 100s of posts here citing Xantrex issues. And with all the new LiFePO4 batteries in the marketplace, a new quality brand at a better price point could be chosen. You'll get used to knowing your tank levels. More accurate, yeah sure, we've heard that one before! 🤣 That's what they said about our external tank monitors. We have learned very well how many days it takes us to fill our black and gray tanks. We're not ready for composting, the pee and poop handling, but it is the black tank that makes us return to the dump station! Gray water can be dumped on BLM and FS lands, so we can last a while leaving with 70 gallons fresh. I can guess exactly when we need fresh water, just before the water pump starts gurgling! Then we refill, from our auxiliary tank in the pickup bed. I have seriously not looked at that tank level display in two years, just don't need to. Windows? There are many here that truly dislike the current windows. Some leak when it rains and some have lost their seal between the panes. Our windows are in like new condition, no defects to date, knocking on wood. I enjoy the one-hand operation, especially when lying in bed. Awning windows, something else to worry about in high winds and rain? And if left open at all, even one inch when away, a thief could easily rip the window off and enter the cabin interior. I also do not like how they stick out on the exterior, where our windows are recessed into the hull, flush so taking no wind. We usually close our windows when towing, but if you forget these, there will be damage. I do really like the trimline blinds as the old-style sticks out almost 3" into the cabin interior. One gets in my way when I'm in bed. Our blinds need another hosing down this summer, Like I did when we first purchased our Oliver used My favorite part is the new kitchen counter setup. The new sink and cooktop looks great! However for boondocking, I'm not sure the compressor fridge and induction cooktop are preferable, appliances that cannot operate on AC/DC and LP. But with 900 Ah, oh what the heck! Chris loves cooking with induction, so we have a single-burner cooktop we plugin indoors or out (search for keyword 'induction'). For 2027, did they fix the cramped bathroom countertop/sink? Someday, I'll fix both, like Mike did for their kitchen:

Oliver is dedicated to continuous improvement, I like a lot of the changes. I think stepping away from Truma appliances is a good thing. I'd feel more confident traveling knowing that parts and service are more likely to be available for the new appliances. An integrated DC to DC converter is a great addition as well.

There is an adjustment for that. There should be a description as to how to make that adjustment in your "Oliver Standard Components Manual".

Try a PM to SeaDawg. I know that she had this issue and a "local" (Florida) place solved the issue for her. Bill

Collin and Gavin (CGI Murfreesboro, TN) did a superb job on my camper right before they left for Maine. I always tell them, “It looks better than new.” Worth every penny for the annual job. If I lived in Maine and owned an Oliver, I would definitely take advantage of their skill set while they are there.

For truma communications between devices on the inside controls they use a data cable with network or phone style connections. There should be one plugged into the right side of the water heater looking from the outside above the power switches and behind the larger white cable connector. If it’s plugged in then check the other end at the control panel. IMG_7831.mov

So to add an interpretation: that tag it tells you that "weigh carrying" capacity (which is direct downward pressure from the tongue) is 500lb's without a weight distribution hitch and 1160lbs if you have a weight distribution hitch attached. Since Oliver EII's loaded are usually around 600-700 lb range...then you'll need a WDH for that particular hitch on that particular vehicle.

Here's the sticker/decal Bill mentioned on the bottom of an F-150 hitch:

I'd bet that Ford does require a weight distribution hitch - look for a "sticker/decal" on the underside of the hitch on that Expedition. Also, be mindful of thigs other than "will it tow the trailer" - remember, you also have to stop that trailer, possibly tow it up/down steep grades. The additional stresses placed on your tow vehicle are also likely to shorten the service interval you had planned on for this vehicle. Therefore, be mindful of shortened service intervals and while driving pay closer attention to acceleration/stopping distances and avoiding other road hazards. Your ride quality may also be compromised as you approach the maximum limits of the tow vehicle. This might make driving a bit less enjoyable for all concerned. Having said all this, please note that the Oliver is extremely well behaved when towing. Bill

Based on your numbers I'd say, yes, you could tow an Elite 2 with your Expedition. As you mentioned, your limiting number would be your payload limit. Take 600# off for tongue weight and you're down to 725 for you, your wife, and any cargo in the truck. Should be enough. You'd have to check your manual to see if a weight distributing hitch is required for a 7000# GVWR trailer, although it may not be with those specs (AI says it's not needed until the trailer is over 7000#).

Right that, I paid 62.99 plus tax last April. Didn’t notice the price jump, CRAZY! Actually watched a video of someone using it to blow dust and grass debris off their zero turn mower prior to maintenance procedures. Its worked great for that purpose and general cleanup after a mow. Have since found a multitude of uses and now carry it in my van in close reach. I can blow that dust off the dash a couple times a week, as well as other points of accumulation within the van. I have yet to move my air compressor setup to our new residence, so this powerful handy device is filling that void and more! I also like that it is small and trim enough to fit in my pocket in readiness, as needed.

REALLY nice toy! Bill