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I have been very unhappy with the Dexter leaf springs. I have towed my trailer 15-20,000 miles since purchase in 2021, 99% of the time on pavement. Last year 2 of the leaf springs broke and were replaced along with the shocks, since they bent the shaft on the shock when the leaf springs broke. This year I had another leaf spring break. I contacted Oliver and they told me they are now using Alcan leaf springs, starting with the 2027 models. I am thinking that's because they have had a lot of problems with the Dexter leaf springs. Reading through this thread it seems like many have had problems with the Dexter leaf springs. I have ordered Alcan leaf springs so we will see how they do when I get them installed.

From across the lake

Dennis, PM me with your address and I’ll put a brand new original in the mail to you. 😎 Barker is great. I purchased two reconditioned heads for our rears and they came with new plastic covers, switches, etc. which of course you don’t need when replacing the rears. It would be my pleasure!

@Hokieman Not sure what to explain in regards to the shackles and wet bolts being heavier duty than Dexter parts. They simply appears bigger/larger. Once you get over the fact that the wet bolts could possible spin over time due to no spines in the shackles, all is well, I guess. As to why Oliver is using Dexter parts with Alcan springs, I'm not sure. If they are, I can only think of a few reasons why: They have tons of Dexter spare parts and want to use them up & save $$$. Or they are making a less than desirable decision to save $$ and use Dexter parts with Alcan springs. 🤷‍♂️ The parts will be fine I'm sure. Most of those bolts & shackles had held up pretty well. Oh sure, a few reports of broken ones over the years, but only time will tell with pure Alcan parts. Again, a business does not stay in business since 1971 if they make crap parts, I would think. Us men can be so darn anal detailed oriented with our data-point comparisons that it surely creates super long threads. 🤣. It's like our chess games but with RV parts. 😉 I spend much of my time in recent years ensuring I know how to retire and if I did a good enough job with the portfolio (I think so). And now whether or not I want to go thru a full RV Tech school to have a better foundation, or simply goof-off in early retirement. Decisions, decisions.

I did get under my rig with my creeper and a bright flashlight. I took some pics too, but they are not really worth loading up here. So far, everything looks good and things appear to be moving as they should. However, when I put my springs on, I was a bit "anal" and even added a finger size of grease on the shackles where the springs would be touching and rubbing. I knew the 65 ft lbs may be an issue, so I gave everything a fighting chance to move freely. LOL Seems to have worked. I do have grease pushed out to the far side of the wet bolt/shackle area, but then again I used a Ryobi battery powered grease gun, which seem quite powerful, and FAST.

There should be 3 fuses under the street side bunk, one for each jack. They are easy to find if you look there.

IMG_0062.mov We had our Oliver ceramic coated by Blake, owner of Triple B Detailing near Lake Norman, NC. He did an outstanding job and was absolutely incredible to work with! His reviews were stellar and making the 3 hour trip to see him was more than worth it! He is knowledgeable, passionate, and takes pride in every step of the process! Our Oliver looks better than when we took delivery a month ago. I wanted to share Blake’s information and an honest review in case anyone is looking for someone in the area and wants someone who does exceptional work with Olivers.

While traveling we've used our Starlink Mini often. Though more often with cell coverage we are able to use our our T-Mobile 5G SIM on our Pepwave router. I have also used the Pepwave with 5G service as a backup to our home network. Twice while teaching, in the last two years, our Sparklight service has gone down, and I've logged into the Pepwave Wi-Fi to continue the Zoom class sessions. Over the last two years, 5G service in our neighborhood has gotten better/faster. I decided to cancel our home cable service which has grown in cost from $40/mo eight years ago to $86/mo lately for 300 Mbps service. I've worked out a complex installation that allows us to be logged into the same Home Network whether we are physically at home or on the road with the Oliver! To date we have only used the Starlink powered by battery, connecting via Wi-Fi using the built-in Starlink Router. I just finished a more complete installation where we have the Starlink powered by 12-24V DC-DC charger (thanks Geoff) and connected by Ethernet cable to the WAN port of the Pepwave. This will start to get technical for many of you... Internet connection comes into Pepwave router by means of the Parsec 5G antenna (priority #1) or when needed by the Starlink Mini via the Pepwave LAN input. The Pepwave can if needed also share bandwidth between WAN connections for greater overall speed. The Pepwave router will also broadcast Wi-Fi but like any Wi-Fi broadcast it has distance limitations. The Wi-Fi coming from our truck installation by itself will not pass through the garage and the walls of our home to the other side of the house or our lower level where it's half underground. But it does fine more than 100 ft radius around any campsite. At home, we've been using a Wi-Fi 6 Mesh network, a main with two satellite routers to cover all the area on our 3/4 acre property. Including the Oliver which is parked 100 ft away! Now that we're not using a home-based modem anymore, I thought "How could I repurpose this system connected to the Pepwave?" I installed the Mesh Wi-Fi main unit in our truck connected by ethernet cable to a LAN output of the Pepwave. It's so cool that when I read the label on the 120V power adapter for the mesh unit, the output was stated at 12VDC 3.5A which means all I had to do was to cut off the adapter and connect two wires to the 12VDC in the truck! I mounted it in the back window behind the rear bench seat, behind the driver's head. Out of sight when driving and good line-of-sight out the rear of the truck. Where our truck is parked most of the time, backed into the driveway, the mesh satellite in my office also has line-of-site to the main. Our "Home" network is getting 300-400 Mbps down and about 20-50 up from this installation, 5G cell through the cell antenna on the truck! I then parked the truck in the garage where the Wi-Fi signal must travel through 3 walls. We could still stream TV at about half these numbers. Half speed is also about what the Starlink Mini delivers day-to-day. Yeah, good 5G service is 2-4 times faster than the Mini. I've canceled our cable Internet service. The savings of $86/mo in two years will pay for everything spent in this installation; the Pepwave and antenna, the Starlink Mini and accessories, the converters and cabling, etc. Now here's the real kicker! 😎 I setup a home network on the Wi-Fi mesh. We have all of our laptops, cell phones, network printer, TVs etc. all connected to the same "home" network. We also have the TV in the Oliver on the same network. Regardless of whether we are home or away the network login is constant so no need to reconnect ever to another Wi-Fi. If we need Starlink, when traveling, or for emergencies when at home and the cell network is overloaded, just mount and connect the Starlink Mini and it feeds the same home network. If we wanted to connect to a public or friend's Wi-Fi we can also input that to the Pepwave "Wi-Fi as WAN" so it becomes the Internet source for our home network. It's a lifetime, seamless setup! 🤣 So, you might be thinking a router with antenna, the Starlink Mini and a Wi-Fi Mesh could pull a bit of power from your truck starter batteries. Yes, and it will over time. Earlier I had installed a 100W Renogy flexible solar panel on our truck toolbox along with a small 15A Victron MPPT SC. This small solar setup always keeps our truck AGM batteries to 13V+ and powers everything listed above. It also has ample power for our Dometic CFX5 45l fridge in the truck bed! 😎 One exception is when I have the truck parked inside the garage for more than a couple days. So then I connect a battery charger, quick connect leads already installed above the front bumper. I got done yesterday as the sun was setting and this picture shows it all. Notice the Starlink Mini mounted top right with the small blue power light on. You can see the Renogy panel on the toolbox, the SC is installed inside with outputs to battery and the fridge in a separate circuit. You can see cable looms, going up to the antenna and to the Starlink running across the box. The Mini is removable but the cabling stays. If we ever camp where the Northern sky is blocked where the TV is parked, then the Starlink would be mounted elsewhere, Starlink Wi-Fi login, powered by battery again. We find this is a rare case where we camp most of the time out West. The Pepwave install was shown earlier in this thread and is behind the rear bench seat below. Lastly, notice the blue light in the truck rear window. This is the Arris Mesh. I had purchased this mesh network 6 years ago, so it was great to reuse it, no cost. If I was to purchase new today there are better and smaller products available, though this system as a whole works great. We've got more installed in our tow vehicle than most have in their homes and RVs put together. What a great upgrade! 🤣

FWIW, we keep a cover on our tongue Jack in the hope of reducing failures. https://a.co/d/013Mrxua

@Dennis and Melissa Meaher State Park, Alabama A sunset view from a site close to where you took yours. Mossey

A little hot, but beautiful.

I looked over my footage, not worth uploading. I was holding the camera, there’s too much camera shaking from holding it to be useful. Second it’s not long enough, you’d need an hour of watching the footage to see it, and ideally you’re also seeing the road too. In other words, ideally you’d be watching it while driving. It’s not something that jumps out at you, it’s not obvious as first glance. Initially I was thinking “move along, there’s nothing to see here”. But after 45 minutes or so of watching a story emerged which I wrote about above. It took that long to see the pattern, which I’d characterize as … Trust your suspension. Baby it, inspect it, religiously do your maintenance and inspections. It’s doing its job but is taking a hell of a beating. After this I’m going to religiously inspect before every drive. Upgrade it with the best components you can (Alcan) Factory suspension is clearly undersprung (Alcan) And now I am going to carry all these Dexter parts as spares on the road Trust your trailer, don’t underinflate your tires The Oliver is built like a tank - that’s why we bought it right? As detailed above the aircraft carrier is the best description. I’ve seen other suspension drive videos with conventional trailers and you can see them rattling and moving. In fact there are RV tech videos talking about the need for those panels to move relative to each other, ideally with a good angle bracket covering the edge. The Oliver is nothing like this from frame to body. Nothing is meant to move, it’s stiff like crazy, and from what I can see at best only very high band/high frequency vibrations make it through. But in a fiberglass four body trailer like this they’ll just damp themselves away. Avoid porpoising as best you can All the shaking going on inside the trailer? It’s that. Comparing that from the side mirrors to the underbody cam was night and day. Clear that any internal trouble comes from that Somewhat related, I had my Anderson installed from the factory. They recommended slightly slack chains. It’s bothered me ever since, how could these possible be doing any weight distribution? Didn’t get any response here about it but consulted Gemini which was clear that the chains need to be tensioned for WD to occur. So this trip I tried it, lifted the truck back end a couple inches, tightened the chains and then lowered. End result was the truck towed a bit better. I run a heavy trailer with a 700 lb tongue.

I believe if we were ever to mooch-dock with family, I'd use the wet bath inside or better yet borrow the family shower in the house! 🤣 I use the outdoor shower boondocking when miles away from others, and yes we're always "in the dirt." I thought of an outdoor shower mat, not like the one Steve showed but something perforated. But the issue with either kind is afterwards you have a big dirty shower mat to clean. Too much trouble. I wear water shoes when showering outside. They get a little dirty on the bottoms and I take them off as I'm stepping on to the camping carpet. When they dry out, just rub them together to remove the dried dirt and put them back in the truck. Also, where we generally camp the shower water is absorbed very quickly in the ground, rarely creating puddles or mud. 😎 I also use water shoes in public showers at campgrounds for health concerns.

Left-Side Hinge Ordering - Just FYI, and to keep this key thread somewhat at the top, if you are ordering a Nova Kool 5810, most in stock fridges are right-side hinged. You can swap sides, but Nova Kool recommends ordering a left-side hinge. I got the sense from talking to them, that if you reverse the door, you end up with the holes exposed and apparently it voids the five year warranty. Lead time as I write this is 4-6 weeks. I got mine from suremarine.com out of Seattle. They are a high volume Nova Kool dealer and close to the Canadian factory. Shipping to San Antonio is around $500. ;-(, but their price was best I could find. https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Single-Door-Freezers/F5810ACDC.html

Good day all! Wanted to share my hull number and the selected name of my Apex 23 that I’ll be picking up Oct 7th at the Mothership if all goes according to plans. In honor of the hull number I’m choosing a name taken from the writings of Thomas Jefferson (who was born in 1743) along with a “tongue in cheek” nod to part of military career as an Infantry Officer. His “Cannons of Conduct” contain 12 wonderful recommendations about how we should live our lives that I wholeheartedly agree with. So hopefully all will welcome myself, my pups and “Cannon Fodder” to the group. Cheers! Douglas

Reasoning is I wouldn't think with how heavy your tow vehicle is that a WDH would be necessary. What you describe is the way my truck felt towing prior to upgrading leaf springs. The Alcan springs will eliminate 90% of the porpoising and so made the tail-heavy feeling go away. BTW, both Bill and I had measured tongue weight with a Sherline scale at 580 LBS. Most Oliver owners with 2500 series trucks do not use the Andersen WDH.

Dan, you are correct and if "two techs" made such statements, the were absolutely WRONG in stating such nonsense! See PDF page 11 of the Andersen Installation Instructions which I have also captured in the picture below. It states first hand-tight and then use socket and tighten to 3-4 more threads showing. The WDH only works from the chain tension. If you kick on the chains properly adjusted you should hear a bass note hum from the tension! 😎 I used the Andersen before we upgraded to Alcan Springs. My older Dodge 2500 is borderline, owners manual stating it's needed when over 500 LB tongue weight or 5000 LB tow weight. The Oliver exceeds both numbers. The Oliver would cause our rear to sag 2" and the Andersen when adjusted would bring the height back up to perfectly level (see pic). Without the Andersen we would have serious porpoising. Turns out the Alcans allow the Oliver suspension to manage itself eliminating the porpoising, so we stopped using the Andersen WDH after the suspension upgrade. First thing to do for your 9K LB 2500 series EV truck is to remove the Andersen WDH! CAUTION: If you remove the Andersen WDH also replace the ball hitch <OR> if you continue to use the same ball mount provided by Andersen, lock the base with the collar pin. If not there is only a circlip holding the hitch ball in place. If @Douglas Rink is towing with a 1/2 ton truck then it is suggested but a waste of money for the 2500 series truck. Anybody need a good used Andersen WDH with a new 2 5/16" ball and cone? Andersen-WD-Hitch-Installation.pdf

Hope to see ya all soon. Coming from So Cal. I may have an extra spot as our friends (#073) may not make it. I'll post again real soon

Some things I’ve found out that will be of interest, a lot of it from consulting with various AI’s which have gotten really good and more reliable than humans Trailer Cover I’ve debated getting a cover, but that’s more for the traditional trailers with leak prone seams that need protecting. Other than cost and difficulty to get on/off there’s a ‘greenhouse effect’. I’m seeing it now, I’ve got a tarp on the roof to keep morning dew off while the graphene cures. Already in the morning that inside ceiling gets hot. A cover bakes the trailer, better to graphene coat and no cover which lets moisture evaporate and radiate heat UV Protection What about preventing chalking? Hands down SiO2 without or without graphene is the best solution. Gel coat is rather porous, providing a perfect base for the coating to adhere to and it perfectly seals and prevents basically 100% UV protection. Just make sure to refresh it every few years, depending on use and climate it can last up to eight Graphene This is an additive to a regular SiO2 coating and solvent. By itself it can’t coat, but as a dopant it greatly improves the performance in many ways Which brand? Glidecoat. Originally made for marine applications it’s Elite level protection for your Oliver. Additionally its rated multi-surface, get the 30’ kit and you’ll have plenty to coat all the aluminum too, and probably much of your truck Why? Basically its the best protection for this trailer other than garaging it. Even then it’ll be easier to travel, you want to get bug guts off, droppings and sap because they eat the gelcoat. But after this treatment they just wipe off. Looks great too. And its cheaper than the alternatives. Garaging is expensive (and rare out West) and you want protection on the road anyhow. CalMark covers are near $2k and a pain, and this only requires minimal upkeep and maintenance. Total cost and tools was around $1k + sweat equity, or you can have CGI do it. Application The CGI Detailing is the best method, which is roughly Do a deep, deep clean For heavily oxidized trailers use a rotary polisher and heavy cutting compound Then (and for trailers in good condition) use an orbital polisher working in 2x2 or 3x3 squares with Inox Cutmax, four dots on a particular pad. Three passes, Wipe off Go to 6-4 polishing compound, same method IPA wipe off, two towel method Coat Lots of particular details here that are important, highlights Moisture must be managed. The solvent uses humidity to cure, but actual moisture will ruin it. Working outside is fine - I’m doing it - but I time it to periods during the day and cover the trailer at night for the first 48 hours to avoid morning dew and be out of the sunlight so it doesn’t flash off too quickly. Don’t wash the trailer with soap for at least a week. Do two coats, three doesn’t add anything In general use a two towel method and rotate pads. It took me two days do the roof, partly because I think it’s on the ladder so lots of moving that around, fiddling with the odd areas, and getting used to it. Next I’m taking three days to do the sides and back. First day to compound, second to polish and coat one side, final day to do the other side. Much easier outside as can pop the awnings to avoid any sun. Then finally I’ll take two days to do the front as that’s the most important

Thanks to both of you. Ordering tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. Hooray for the Oliver community once again!

This one off Amazon should work fine and you shouldn't have to do any rewiring. Waterproof Reverse Polarity Switch

We use Progressive, but not the online application. Find a local independent agent, I applied online years ago and costs were double. Was with GEICO for 10+ years, but they became extremely annoying. We run full coverage when we're traveling and then when I know we'll be parked at home for a few months, a request to my agent and he changes coverage to COMP only which saves about half the cost for that period of time. We own more cars and trucks than drivers in the household, so we always have 1-2 vehicles on comp coverage only. I had to file a car accident with Progressive recently. They want you to use their app, take pics and a movie showing the damage. In a few days they reply with a settlement and set it up to pay you electronically. Same day I had money transferred. Then it's up to you to get quotes where you want it fixed. If quotes are more $$$ then you'd have to communicate with an adjuster for approvals. Given you'd prefer to go to OTT that should be OK with most insurance companies. They likely would not pay travel expenses, so the Oliver would have to be cross-country towable to get it there or transportation costs may be exorbitant! Ours is insured for stated value equal to the actual cash we paid for our used Oliver plus all (documented) upgrade costs kept in a spreadsheet. When buying new you have a current receipt for cost paid, but without a stated-value policy, if totaled they will deduct depreciation as they see it. Congrats on your new Oliver Apex, it's only 3 weeks away! 😎

Sounds interesting

Towed it back home after a trip. The following observations are preliminary pending what I see after I install the Alcan. They’re not scientific or measured in any way, but my impression from watching the trail cam for an hour over a variety of road conditions. Having said that I’m pretty confident of the patterns I’m seeing. I’ll try and post good video captures before/after so you can make up your own minds (I got some video from this trip but I really need a phone mount), but for now here are my impressions … Suspension Run, don’t walk and get yourself set up with a set of Alcan 5 leaf! For reference I started as an Alcan skeptic to agnostic, now I’m a raving convert. The stock suspension is undersprung, I’m convinced of it. Confident I’m seeing that the springs have too little travel and bottom out too quickly. After this I can’t unsee it, just sitting there parked they’re too compressed. Alcan’s assessment that for this trailer you need five leaves is 100% accurate, and for an engineer to say that is as strong an endorsement I can make. The stock suspension works, that’s the best I can say, but they’re not performing as they can (or should). I’m really curious to see the Alcan’s in action but I have no doubt it’ll be better than this. Five springs? All the way. Tire Pressure Stop underinflating your tires! Its ruining milage and stressing your tires. It’s perfectly clear the suspension is doing what it’s supposed to do and absorbing the bumps and rattles. Whatever makes it through that doesn’t matter and there’s little you can do about it anyhow. This is most obvious on hard, quick impulse hits like going over a pothole. That suspension is getting brutalized! But it’s taking it, I can see it rattling around like crazy but I’m not seeing an ounce of rattle making it to the hard mounted camera. Think of it this way, imagine a 7 thousand pound weight going down the road. Lots of mass and momentum right? Hard to get it to move out of a straight line according to Newton, correct? But it’s got a spring connecting it to the road which is designed to move and quickly. What I see is 100% clear - the trailer plows ahead like an aircraft carrier that doesn’t care one bit about the road, while the suspension is getting beat to hell. By the way I’m able to judge the trailer vibration I think by how ‘steady cam’ it is, and compared to the road/lines/etc as a reference. Basically it looks like an actual steady cam, while the suspension is rattling away and moving all over the place, while the trailer just isn’t seeing it. If you see stuff getting knocked around inside it’s the porpoising. That’s the biggest trailer movement I could see, with a little minor waddle, but road rumble isn’t making it up there much as far as I can tell. Tank drain Kind of an interesting one. I opened the fresh drain valve and it continued to drain intermittently for over an hour, from 30%. Going from a stop would always get a gusher. Anyhow FWIW - feel free to keep your Dexter’s and low pressure, but I wouldn’t touch it after seeing it in the real world.

"Couple times" did it ever run correctly? "Low nighttime temps cause the propane to contract" Have you tried it when it's warmer out? Why not take time now to fix the actual issue? It's August now vs. March so certainly no need to heat tanks this time of year (if ever). And you can work on this middle of the afternoon, not waking up middle of the night. Get error codes if present. Don't assume12V at the ignitor just because of a "max battery pack." Are you hearing ignition? Test for 12V+ and actually see or at least hear the ignitor clicking for actual verification. Then are you getting gas? The heater fan will blow to "clear out the ignition chamber" as a process step whether LP is present or not. Is your LP regulator supplying LP at the correct pressure? Gas in the lines? We usually light the LP stovetop to clear the lines of air but you may have an induction cooktop. Is the hot water heater working correctly? If you have the rear LP port run something back there to verify good gas flow. We had issues our last trip out with LP keeping our older 3-way fridge running overnight. It ran fine on DC and I was worried about the new LP regulator I had installed. While parked at home this August, I ran all LP appliances to be sure (stovetop first, then the furnace, HWH and fridge). Cleaned the sail switch in the Atwood furnace which barely needed any cleaning. They all tested/worked well when at home, so my conclusion was that the old fridge will have issues running on LP when at 7600 FT elevation like our last campsite. Now is the time to get yours fixed when you're not out camping. Some of our members from up in Montana or Minnesota can chime in, but unless you are camping regularly below 20F a heater blanket should not be necessary. LP will not vaporize at all when -44F but certainly will for occasional drops below freezing (32F). Your Truma should still be under warranty, so you could schedule repair service. You will want to go through testing steps regardless, know that you have LP and 12V+ present and record any error codes if possible.

Appreciate your feedback Chris. I recall reading that too, but several owners in your post report otherwise. Please explain. Apparently Oliver is satisfied with Dexter parts durability as that is what they are using on new Apex model. Perhaps you misunderstood my comments. I would never suggest re-using old and/or worn parts. @DanielBoondock has a 2026 model, and has said he lubricated his wet bolts. They should be inspected of course, but there should be essentially no wear on the bolts or shackles. If any wear, it will be the bronze bushings in the springs, which of course are being replaced. I’m not knocking Alcan, I am a customer, just haven't received my springs yet. I’m only summarizing what I’ve read. All of these reported shortcomings are not deal breakers, they are just not ”optimal”. Working together, we can do better, but it’s important to get the facts straight and pay attention to the details on our running gear. We are moving in the right direction, and have Oliver’s attention.

Thank you both! I’ve definitely been impressed with and feel incredibly welcome to the group. Answers to your questions: 1. Home is Clover SC (just across Lake Wylie from Charlotte). 2. There were a few options for the Apex and out of those I chose the rear hitch for my bike rack, and the Anderson weight distribution hitch. I’m also having an OGO composting toilet installed (prefer over the brand Oliver offers). 3. I decided to go with the Oliver for the two main reasons of their quality build and 4 season capability. As I prefer to camp more off the beaten path having the Apex model option sealed the deal. I’ll be at the Rally in October and hopefully will meet y’all there!

In June we had our Dexter OEM axles upgraded to 5200's. Our replacement 2400 pound rated Dexters were retained. No reason to replace them after just a couple of seasons. What I did learn of interest follows: As of that time, Alcan has replace abut 300 sets of OEII springs at their shop. They have also sent to other Oliver owners about 450 sets of springs. Both 4 and 5 leaf. They have also sent a bunch of 5 leaf springs to Oliver for use in the new Heavy Duty suspension, and sent four leaf springs for the other 90% of their customers. I specifically discussed with Alcan the repair method for spun spline bolts. He stated that the Hex Head Washer approach IS the best solution. He also stated that the second best solution is to weld a spacer washer and try to create a new splins. I asked if it was his trailer which he wouldl do: He stated the Hex Head Washer approach if how he would do it. I asked what he thought about the Dexter 1750 rated springs: He stated they are too light for a 6K trailer full time loaded. I am glad to hear that OTT has gone with the suggestions made about 30 pages ago..... GJ

Please take before and after movies, pre and post Alcan upgrade. 😎

Trail cam! The Sierra EV has one of if not the biggest screen in the industry, massive 17” tablet, and GM’s got IMO the best cameras in the industry. Anyhow I can have two trailer cams, I’ve got one on the back for transparent trailer etc. I put the second on as a trail cam Spent a long time thinking about where to put it. Up top is pretty well covered with the other cameras, I realized the ground was the weak spot. Use cases you all will be familiar with Shows levelers/chocks etc. When driving on/off levelers it’s impossible to tell where you are and I often overshoot and bung them up as there’s few inches of margin with dual axel When offroad, or even parking lot speed bumps, will be really nice to see them coming instead of guessing for known obstacles. Sometimes I have to drive over a curb too Fun and a good idea to keep an eye on the trailer suspension Backing up to a stop. At my park I have the cement parking stop placed where I want it, but I can’t tell where it is until I hit it. Installation was ridiculously easy. This and only this cross bar was perfect as its the only one not holding anything up, so I could simply zip tie to it. And of course they have these genius cable runs on the two edges.

@Snackchaser Hey, I just came across this solution! Thanks for putting us out there. IFIXIFI is me and my family's small, American family business. And, yes, we own OLE2 Hull 231, "Olly'all".

Nice shower! Being a man, and given our usual boondocking spots, I'm out there showering in underwear without a curtain. Chris showers inside but I'm outside whenever possible so I don't get the entire wet bath wet! When I do shower inside, I empty the room and then end up hosing the entire wet bath clean too! Most people do not realize dumping grey water is allowed in the National Forests wherever dispersed camping is allowed and when 200 ft from a water source (see USFS Dispersed Camping publication). I'm not certain, but I apply this rule to BLM lands as well. The high desert critters and bugs eat it up and by the next day you wouldn't even know it was there. Drain slowly so not to cause erosion, and an outdoor shower is a small amount of grey water let go slowly. 😎 USFS Dispersed Camping_stelprdb5196126.pdf

I think it was Mountain man that discovered Alcan Springs and made the first post in the forum. some 36 pages later in the forum, seems the has provided a great service to Oliver owners and a real bump in sales for Alcan. Thank you Mountain man, for your contribution to all of us that have broken springs and now running on Alcan. Additionally, I think the folks at Alcan might consider some recognition and maybe a modest commission for purchases made by Oliver owners. Best to you and happy torquing Mountain Man

It helps to open the shower drain valve (either manual or automatic) to allow some air into the (forward/high/uphill) end of the gray tank... making it somewhat easier for the liquid to pour out of the rear/low/downhill end of the tank. Don't forget to close this valve when moving the camper or parking extremely nose-down or the gray tank fluid may burble up into the shower floor pan from the long & shallow gray tank, which may not be pleasant. This valve must be open when using either the shower or the bathroom vanity sink.. otherwise these will not drain into the gray tank as expected and the fluid will either stay in or flow into the shower floor plan.

Hey I just got it and already did a Tennessee trip this year! 😅 Anyhow still working, close to retirement so one big trip is all that can be managed

I serviced my VIP 3000 power jack a couple days ago. I have Hull 329 (2018) and I think Oliver has used these jacks for quite awhile (and continues to use them, I believe). In my exuberance (I've done this before) I disconnected the light and up/down switches and re-greassed the gears but did not take any photos to help with reassembly. Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what goes where. Can anyone help? The last pic shows the top of the jack motor...it has 3 wires (2 black and 1 red with one of the black wires being thicker at 10GA while the other black wire and the red wire are both 12 GA). The second to last pic shows the motor head cover and wires for the light. I do know that the orange wire is grounded on the top of the motor head. The second pic shows the switch for the jacks up/down control and the first pic shows the switch for the light. The manufacturers wiring diagram is of little help (for me). Maybe a pic or 2 showing what goes where on your rig? I know this is kinda specialized and a big ask. I would appreciate the help. Thanks.

Share and Enjoy !Shares Growing up in a family that spent time camping and pursuing outdoor activities, one thing was for sure, our first night at camp dinner. One of the memorable times we made this dinner as a family was the first night at Yellowstone National Park. Camping food is some of my favorite things. Maybe it is because after hiking, exploring, and playing in the wilderness all day, the hunger I had made the food taste even better. For my family, we would write a menu while camping and strategically pack and cook food to last the week. The beginning of the trip would be more perishable foods, followed later in the week with more shelf-stable products. For the first night, though, it would be something simple and quick to cook. With a few simple ingredients, everyone would be happy and full by the time dinner was over. Along with this Trailside Bite, I invited my mother to help me cook and share stories from when she was younger and how her experiences in the outdoors began. I grew up with three siblings; camping was a big part of our vacations. My mom will share stories from our camping trips and be great company as we cook together. On the Menu This family-inspired recipe is our simple Sausage and Potato skillet. Ingredients Yukon Gold Potatoes, diced2Yellow Onion, diced½Bell Pepper, diced1Kielbasa Sausage, sliced1/2Salt & PepperdashChili Powder½ tsp.Butter2 TBSP This Trailside Bite has just a couple of ingredients that will only need to be diced and cooked in a sautéed pan. Add all the ingredients to a pan and place it on medium-high heat. I like to start it on higher heat to melt the better, which will help things not stick to the pan while cooking. Once the butter is melted, reduce heat to medium heat and stir occasionally. Add a splash of water over the pan to steam the potatoes to reduce the cooking time. Check after a few minutes; if water is reduced, feel free to add more to continue the cooking process. To check if the potatoes are cooked, press the diced potato; it should cut easily yet still be firm. Uncover the pan and stir until the remaining water evaporates to brown ingredients. This should let the onions and peppers caramelize and crisp the sausage and potatoes. Once cooked through, serve with a salad or warm rolls and butter. Share this meal with your favorite people to make it a great start to your travels. Some meals become a crowd favorite; this is sure to be on our list. Share and Enjoy !Shares The post Sausage & Potatoes appeared first on Oliver Travel Trailers. Read the Full Article

I am challenged enough coming up with dinner ideas at home, let alone camping! Thank you so much for sharing your recipe! We are heading to southern Utah next week and I will definitely be making this. Any more recipes you can share?

It is a nice addition to my system, and has an inbuilt angled surface for easy alignment. But the subscription fee is $23.86/month! 🤣 I have a tripod adaptor for any of my several tripods, and I'm waiting to see what Flagpole Buddy's Labor Day sale is going to be.

Both doors clear the front basket when the trailer is straight behind, but one door or the other will stop at the basket if not close to straight. The van probably should be discussed under the Towing an Oliver topic. I've gotten several questions about it recently due to its appearance at the rally. I'll probably start a Sprinter van as TV thread sometime soon. On Tuesday night 5/6 the park was maybe 10-15% occupied. There are about 100 sites, but less than half are premium waterfront with the large concrete parking pads. I didn't notice a swimming beach area on the lake. There's a swimming pool though. More info here: Roosevelt State Park

Be careful with using these ramps. The inner shackles on the Oliver leaf springs are know to flip and when I tried the ramp (one I've had for years) it flipped the leaf shackle and the suspension looked cock-eyed when rolled off the ramp. I had to tow the Oliver over a curbed entrance to a service station to get it to flip back. Wait for the LOUD BANG when it flips itself back! Just use the built-in jacks for this purpose or when changing a flat tire. There is a member here, with more experience than all of us, who says the Oliver can sit on these jacks forever. I prefer to park near level using Anderson levelers and do not like the trailer wheels to be up in the air when camping or parked for any extended period of time, but NP while you are servicing the trailer. However, if you are going to remove both tires, you can use the jacks to lift the trailer then please use jack stands for your safety. I always travel with one jack stand in the truck toolbox!

Apologies in advance for those who already read our post on the subject, but here's a "Reader's Digest" version of what our conversion finally ended up like... 1. We mounted the POE injector (converts 12vDC to 44vDC for dishy), DC-to-DC converter, 3rd party mini travel router, and wiring in the closet (the second DC-DC converter is for the Camera): 2. Power Switch for SL kit and Security Camera located on bulkhead above closet door: 3. Communication (Ethernet) Cable penetrates closet bulkhead (adjacent to bathroom), drops down under vanity, exits hull via a Blue Seas Clam along with DC-DC charger cables and OEM 12vDC cable (pls. ignore the knucklehead in the pic): 4. The SL Cable is routed forward into the "dog house" and exits via a "weather proof" (term use lightly) 4-pair connector: NOTE: Normally, we would mount the dishy on top of the flag pole which you'll see the mount for above, but today we've been informed by Ranger Rick that flood warnings exist on the TN River and we may need to "Exit Stage Right (like Yogi would say)" rather quickly, so dishy is mounted in it's travel box and placed on a picnic table for a rapid departure, if needed: This post is coming to you via our 12vDC Dishy kit, FYI... Good luck with your's! Feel free to PM us anytime regarding details not covered in this or our previous posting on the project. Cheers!

For SL users and potential users - there's literally a dozen or so ways to convert SL to a 12vDC kit. Pick one that meets your camping style and you're comfortable with - you'll never look back. We converted ours earlier this year and still have the capability of using the original SL router and cable should we need to use it at home or elsewhere on 120vAC - just left us with another option. We didn't have to take any OEM equipment apart, except for cutting the ethernet cable and installing CAT V plugs on either end (piece of cake, BTW). There's definitely a power saving advantage by converting over to DC - we figured 20 - 25% less power than running it on AC. FYI: this message is coming to you via our kit running directly off our Battle Borns from the middle of TN somewhere! Roll-On, regardless...

Someone posted this in another thread: https://www.trioflatmount.com/shop/p/gen3-12vconversion I ordered one to give it a shot since it plugs into the Starlink router and you either hardwire it or wire on a 12v cigarette lighter plug. Pricey little bugger but I really hate soldering electronic stuff and it seemed more reasonable than other options.

Never had any interior problems. Our trailer, with water and ready to camp, has always weighed north of 7000 pounds. And, for years we ran 80 psi in all our tires.

Keep an eye on the OTT "For Sale" section of our forum. If you find one you like, check out the owner's posts. It is amazing what you can learn about the history of their trailer as a result, and about the owner's skills as well. To you above list of upgrades if purchasing an Older OEII, I would add upgrading the Invertor to 3,000 watts, a Victron Orion DC-DC 12-12 30 amp charging system, and of course a 350 amp BlueSeas Master Switch and Victron 712 Smart Shunt to your list. Maybe adding solar or at least a solar suit case or two if it does not have solar already. Each of these efforts have been done by many owners and how to do DYI documentation here is off the charts helpful. To do the project listed, you will need normal tools, plus assorted hand power tools, a hole saw of the proper size, dedicated cable cutter, and a hydraulic lug crimp for starters. First spend some time with your used Ollie and try to understand all of the systems before doing any DYI mod. Please take the time to really study each project and look at all the different ways of doing each of them well before buying anything. Questions? First search the web. Then Google search the web. You'll get more items to digest as their search engine seems to be better than ours. If you still have questions then ask them on one of the threads for that mod. Just know that there may be several threads for a given topic, and each of us posters generally like our way the best....but some times the other thread has a better. And most importantly, looking at them all you likely will come up with an even BETTER way for that DYI effort. With our new Houghton A/C and 3 ea Battleborn 100Ah batteries and 3,000 watt inverter we can run our A/C for almost three hours in hot conditions. We routinely charge our BB's with a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp charger. When we need to run longer and do not have shore power, our Honda EU2200i generator works great. Some owners have the older Honda 2,000 w inverter and it is equally successful. However, some other brands of 2K generators will not pull the load. Lots of posts on this topic! IMHO, only for special needs situation is there a need for a super expensive and heavy 3,000 watt generator.... On the other hand, if you are Full Timing, and you discover some gold nuggets, then the Honda 3000 watt inverter generator would be the best on the market. Then you have a lot of power flexibility. I recall a recent post about this generator and that it fits in our front aluminum basket. GJ GJ

We’ve camped in 100+ temps often, normally when we’re trying to get out of south Texas to cooler areas. The old Dometic in our trailer does fine keeping the interior cool, although it is a bit noisy. Texas heat usually includes a fair amount of humidity. Western Slope in CO will have significantly less humidity. We camp there often since our son and family live in Durango. Mike

Our previous Dometic Noise Maker A/C, and current Houghton are both 13,500 BTU. Both were used over the past five years at Tinker AFB, OKC OK. in 108 degree full sun conditions. Both of these A/C's were cycling which tells me that they had a bit of spare capability in them. Note that I did keep the sun side window shades drawn, and had the awning extended about 3' for some wall shading. Did not go beyond this distance due to local thermals passing by occasionally. If you buy a used Ollie, plan on replacing the Dometic Penguin II A/C. New OTT offers a much better A/C now. GJ

Can't speak for East/Midwest US - but, FYI; Starlink is the "BOMB" in the Rockies... just say'n