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Hi all, First off, thanks to all of the Oliver forum members who post comments and Q&As. The info we’ve gained from periodically checking the forum activity was incredibly helpful in our decision to buy an Oliver, and in figuring out which model and options would work best for us. Although it took more than a year of research, we finally made the leap this past June! We will be picking up our 2027 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Twin Bed floorplan) on September 8th — Hull #1735. We were tent campers for about 40 years and spent the last 8 years camping throughout the Carolinas and Virginia in a 15-foot Taxa Cricket. We are really looking forward to the next chapter of traveling and exploring the country in our Ollie. If anyone is around Hohenwald during our pickup week, say hello! Chuck and Beth Lexington, NC

We finally decided to get rid of the flush toilet after much agonizing internal debates. I looked at all the various models and decided on the Air Head Tejo which doesn't have a urine bottle and dumps right into the black tank through the toilet flange with a supplied fitting. This version is not yet on there website so you will have to call if you want this specific version that has clearance to sit over the toilet flange. It is still possible to use a urine bottle behind the tank with some possible ingenuity as there is a quick disconnect for the urine line. I'll try and keep the pictures in somewhat of an order so you can see the progress but feel free to ask with any questions. This is on our 2021 Legacy Elite II. If you're taking the plunge, the biggest hurdle you'll have is getting the old toilet flange out. It can be a pain but it will twist out with some lifting at the same time. The existing toilet flange will not work as it had too small of an internal diameter as the 3" waste pipe is glued on the outside of the male flange. You will need to swap out the toilet flange for a female flange that the pipe will fit inside which isn't a big deal nor is it costly. You will need to bevel the end of the pipe so that is slides fairly easily into the black tank. I also shortened it up a bit as it dropped down a few inches lower into the tank than seemed necessary. The supplied urine house fitting will be glued into the toilet flange facing the rear of the toilet and the hose will be connected to the urine outlet on the upper left rear. Mounting the toilet is pretty much dictated by the toilet flange mounted to the floor. I kind of did it by feel and moving the toilet side to side and centering it along with a few rough measurements. It worked just fine. I put the toilet in place where I wanted it, slid the brackets into each side and penciled around them so I knew where to go back and drill holes for the brackets. I used six stainless steel #10 - 3/4" long screws to secure it. Be careful not to drill to deep and go through the top of the black tank! I drilled one hole for each bracket and test fit the toilet before finishing drilling and it worked just fine. The biggest concern for me was venting. The Air Head has the fan at the exit point to the exterior so I wanted to be able to take advantage of that rather than having to install an inline fan or something of the sort. My first consideration was to vent into the existing vent pipe in the vanity but that was not recommended by Air Head and they had even mentioned that they had discussed that with Oliver at some point. My next consideration was through the front wall and into the propane box which would have been really easy as well. However, I did read a lot about that not being acceptable for a whole host of reasons. I did consider running it into the box with the hose continuing down underneath the trailer so it vented below the open box. After poking around inside the trailer. I opted to mount the fan housing below the gray and black lines underneath the forward seat of the dinette. The gray line comes off super easy and it was pretty simple area to get to both inside and outside of the trailer. The hose connects to the housing and loops around and through the left side bathroom wall which keeps the vent hose visibility to a minimum as well. As you'll see in the pictures, I haven't caulked it all in yet and buttoned it up but I had a couple people as if I was done yet so I though I would post where I'm at. I like that it vents underneath with minimal bends in the hose and it is towards the outside of the trailer so I don't believe fumes will be an issue.You can place the vent hose on either the center hole in the back or the hole in the right side. I opted for the back since the hose was going out the left side anyhow and it gave it more clearance for the internal mechanism of the toilet and less hose length. They have an inline screen that will also be used in a coupler behind the toilet. I also used a heat gun to give the hose a slight bend but be careful as if you let it get a little too hot it will separate at the corrugations. All in all is was a pretty simple install once I figured out how I wanted to do it and had all the miscellaneous parts ready to go. Now for a test run in a few weeks!

Thank you Chris, for bring this to our attention! 😂 Every time a forum member brings up a maintenance issue, next thing I'm outside checking ours. That's for sure! Ours has no screen at all and no rust. I can stick the full length of my index finger all the up into the opening. Thought I better secure our drain to keep mice and bugs out. I cut a circle about 2 1/2" dia. Then cut a radius line to shape a cone. Then crushed the screen over a 3/8" socket extension and pushed it up into the opening. Same screening I used in the fridge vents.

We get 100s of hummingbirds in Prescott, with the peak season during August. It just cooled off and the hot summer temps are gone 'til next season, thank goodness. They all know Chris as the bird lady. She puts out seed, water in the bird bath and gallons of sugar water in 4 feeders. She even had a couple hummers drink from a hand feeder! The hummers will start to migrate south in the next few days/weeks. We do have some winter hummers, but only a few. We spend an hour or so on the deck each evening. Soon we'll be wearing winter clothes and have the fire ring going! 😆 Hummers in Prescott v2.MOV

Better stay with a 3-way fridge, unless you're plugged in. Running on DC overnight takes too much power for AGM batteries. We do, and it must stay below 10F to keep my Qt of ice cream cold! Glampin' right?! 😎 We also make ice! Two of these fit in one corner of the Dometic freezer, taking very little room. I refill one each night so we always have ice available for those adult beverages! https://www.amazon.com/Molds-Silicone-Trays-Large-Square/dp/B0771YDNCY/ @Ronbrink was first to have one of these in his TV. Like you, he has the dual-zone CFX which is great! At first, I didn't want to use the space, but I went with the single compartment CFX5 45L which just fits in this space by the passenger door. It's so nice always having cold water with us, and not only in the cabin. Often when traveling, we buy a load of meat from a local farm or butcher shop. I'll remove the drinking water, set the CFX5 down to freezer temps to carry the box full of frozen meats, yum! Some people go to museums. That's not us. We shop the great local food markets. Leaving to SW Colorado this Wednesday! With both fridges half empty, our first stop is always the Delores Market! 😍

About noon today on Interstate 80 I was headed East and a white truck towing a white LE 2 was headed West near Laramie, WY. And, a wonderful couple paid for dinner tonight as both of us are overnighting at Cabela's, Sidney, NB. 2 in less than 12 hours!

Greetings to the Oliver from NY — camping in St Mary’s Campground, Glacier National Park! I didn’t see you arrive, but left a note at your door this morning. You’re my first Oliver sighting after months on the road. I hope to see you later in the campground. Update: I was happy to meet my neighbors Larry & Gracie, and look forward to seeing them again at the rally, if not sooner. Happy Trails!

The Cabela’s campground in Sidney is a convenient stopping spot! Easy walk over to Cabela’s too.

Interesting story: I actually had fixed the problem before I got the official description from Truma due to the time of day that I had the failure. I had been driving through a raging rain storm during the day, ended up at a campground near Allentown PA in early January 2024. Temperatures dipped to freezing , set up late evening at 4 County RV Park that night and could not get the furnace to run. Because I had driven all day in the pouring rain I suspected that water may have entered the exhaust / inlet port of the furnace. I could find no description for the error that I was getting in the documentation or on line. I decided to take a hair dryer and blow warm air into the furnace exhaust / inlet port and after several minutes I was able to get the furnace to fire up ( luckily ). Called Oliver the next day and they had no listing for the error. I then put in a ticket with Truma and I got an email a day later explaining what the cause may be. I haven't had the problem since.

This video will give you a basic outline to some of the upgrades we had done earlier this summer on the Outlaw Oliver.

@tractors1 is Charlie Young’s forum name. Mike

Pulled the truck up for Starlink to be centered between the trees! 😎

I spied an LE II headed West on Interstate 40 just West of Asheville, NC late this morning - of course the Ollie was white but the pickup towing it was a dark grey. Bill

Why should there be? My flatbed trailer which we use to haul dirt bikes has one (no house batteries on board). Have you touched one on your Oliver? Something starts your 9K LB sled of batteries! 🤣 You’re going to have to realize 99% of us have “starter batteries.” When you go off in EV-land, like what the F is a Frunk? 🤣 Please translate to those of us who turn the key to start a combustion engine, gas or diesel. We have “starter batteries” and we all have “house batteries.” Pics if your EV fuses, hence my confusion. Thank you. And we have many posts here on disconnecting the AUX wire on the 7-blade connector. This winter, please come to Quartzsite! I’d love to meet you! Spend some time with us, including Steve @ScubaRx. He’s The OTT elder, the guru of everything OTT. Me, I’ve rebuilt everything I’ve ever put my hands on, after 3 years with Hull #113, there’s honestly no better Oliver out there, IMHO of course! 😎

@dewdev and @jd1923 littlehousecustoms.com sells the button guard below, which we found totally eliminated the accidental RM2454 button push. Mossey FRIDGE BUTTON GUARD Who hasn’t bumped the fridge control, switched to DC and run their battery down? This new version is made for us by Charlie Young. It's clear, fits the fridge well and doesn't require removal to operate the buttons. It attaches with clear VHB tape to the control panel. The red color in the photo is the release film on the guard and peels off prior to installation revealing the clear VHB tape. Button Guard $14.95 Add to Cart

@jd1923 I too love watching "My RV Works". I also still have the Dometic RM2454. My fridge will not stay on left 5. The light usually goes out after a while or immediately depending on ambient temps (so it seems). Not sure it's the eyebrow or board. I've been wanting to delve into it more, but I'm a bit afraid I will break something worse. I'm such a scaredy cat. I don't mind breaking it with someone with me or if it doesn't work at all. LOL. I'm so complex.

I'm not getting this. Do Oliver TTs have something new in late model units? And I don't recognize the fuses in the picture above. Not familiar with Brightway either. On our Oliver I'm pretty sure the breakaway switch uses power from the house batteries applied to the brakes when the pin is pulled. I often pull that pin manually to test for amperage at the trailer brakes. I have a breakaway battery on a flatbed trailer we own. It needs one since it doesn't have house batteries. Is this not disconnected by design? (so that truck starter batteries and house batteries are isolated.)

As @Steve Morris provided plus one extra 4’ pole section in my application.

IMG_0062.mov We had our Oliver ceramic coated by Blake, owner of Triple B Detailing near Lake Norman, NC. He did an outstanding job and was absolutely incredible to work with! His reviews were stellar and making the 3 hour trip to see him was more than worth it! He is knowledgeable, passionate, and takes pride in every step of the process! Our Oliver looks better than when we took delivery a month ago. I wanted to share Blake’s information and an honest review in case anyone is looking for someone in the area and wants someone who does exceptional work with Olivers.

We bought our used a few months ago. Went to Pennsylvania to pick it up. Love it. We have been staying on Oregon coast a bunch. We reside in Grants Pass Oregon IMG_0858.mov

I’m not Ron, but I asked the same question before. It is from Flagpole Buddy, and you need the Airstream version with adjustable angle suction cups. They went on sale last Black Friday. https://flagpolebuddy.com/products/ols/products/airstream-suction-cup-mount-kit-g2-g3-g5-or-mini-adapter-poles-mounts-cable-clamps-pole-bag/v/106967-MN

I am looking forward to meeting you as well and 'the dog house' graphic may be gone by then. I need to get a replacement. Mossey

Hi DanielBoondock, Blake works by himself and is the owner of Triple B Detailing. He works one project at a time so he’s 100% committed to the task at hand. I dealt with only him, start to finish and he was wonderful! We dropped our Ollie off on a Monday and picked it up on Wednesday. The wash, prep, and application was a full 10 hour day. We had everything except the awning coated, including the solar panels. He used Stark yacht products. It’s not really a double coat but is a double step process of base coat/prep, then topcoat. I highly recommend him! If you want more in depth information or have any other questions, reach out to Blake! He is passionate about his craft and I found him more than willing to help us by text/phone/email.

The few times so far when I had no connection was a blessing I have to admit 😅

😍 Love it! The Dog House is certainly getting high-tech. Love to see your take on this one with all of your great Mods! Mike/Mossey, I hope to meet you at The Rally! (Your hull graphic should be easy to find.)

Yeah, I like having a freezer for ice and a good ice pack for the back & neck. Looks like the Nova fridge uses a lot less power at about 4.5A on 12v. My old 3-way burns at least 10amps on DC, but my 4 good AGMs sustain that all day, with Solar coming in. I'm estimating that the Nova, without a freezer, might run on a Jackery 1000 for approximately 30 to 35 hours. I always travel with at least one of my Jackery 1000s portable power units, for among other things, running my 12v Truma Cooler that I either carry in the cab of the truck or in the camper itself. The Truma cooler runs at least two days on that portable power unit, and I seldom charge past 85%, depending how hold I want things and the ambient temps. I'm estimating that the Nova, without a freezer, might run on a Jackery 1000 for approximately 30 to 35 hours. But that remains to be seen, and weather dependent. In theory, and if I put my money where my mouth has been, I'll be retired in 122 days. (Fine, yes, I'm counting)

I’m fit, I used to always weigh 240+ now 220 LBS or less. We played 2 hours of pickleball today, and generally play 3 times a week. We play against couples in their 50s, winning more often than not, just us in our early 70s! 😎 No fricken way I’m washing/waxing a vehicle anymore! After 50 years of keeping every vehicle I have in A+ condition, my energy for wax-on/wax-off has grown extremely weak! I’ll pay $100 to have a neighborhood kid work all day long washing my truck! Paid $2K for the best Ceramic Coating I’ve ever seen (just one guy, he kept our Oliver for 2 weeks). Taking our hull back to “the guy” for our first annual decontamination wash. I could not believe when just last week he said, the annual will be $180 (based on how I kept it, mostly untouched). Thanks Dan, I enjoy reading “Dan’s Mods!”

I'm with Dan on these comments, but many like and use the Calmark cover. I sold our Calmark a couple years ago to Gary in Minnesota. I would not have purchased one but it came with the deal used. I'm sure up north it keeps the snow off! We had 2 ft of snow once on our Oliver, but that kind of snow around here only blows in every few years and it will always melt in a couple days. 🤣 We all have different needs. Don't forget the rub marks on the gelcoat, unless your storage is well out of the wind. Down here, if I left a cover on, even for a couple of weeks, we would have 3 kinds of nests under the cover and the Pack Rats would chew the fabric all along the bottom edge to make their nests! I also like the rooftop solar showing, so I can leave it unplugged most of the year. 😎

We decided to wash the cushion covers. Unfortunately there are no care instructions in any of the covers we've checked. Oliver didn't have any guidance either. We started machine washing our cushion upholstery covers. Washing in a front loader on delicate/cold with second rinse. Adding regular laundry detergent and oxiclean. The upholstery fabric is synthetic and comes out of the washer almost dry. A few hours in the sun (air drying) finishes them. We also turn them inside out at some point to make sure they dry completely. We would not attempt machine drying. The washed cushion covers look the same (no discoloration) as before washing but they smell better. Not sure if the upholstery had some type of stain treatment but the washed covers feel better too. The edge piping also had a little fraying after washing but we clipped or melted the frays. (Nylon or polyester fabric so you have to be very careful if you try to melt the frays.) Freshly washed on left with a pile of removed frays at bottom. Piping fray after washing, before repair. The most difficult part is removing and reinstalling the foam from the covers. The covers are a very tight fit and the zipper opening is smaller still. The smaller the cushion, the more difficult. We have a standard bed and the small cushions used in the corners were a challenge. Strong hands are useful. We found when removing the covers, our foam had stuck to the seams of the covers in some places. Not sure why this happens. We found it's best to run my hand along the fabric seams to separate the foam from the fabric. There are also a lot of fabric strings on the inside of the cover from the fraying seal allowance so we have to be careful not to pull on those when removing the foam. After drying, we cut off a lot the frayed fabric strings to make it easier to reinstall the foam. Getting the foam past the zipper can be difficult. We found that squeezing the corner of the foam with one hand and pulling the fabric end over the foam worked best for us. Strong hands are very helpful here. Once the foam is inside to cover we had to stick an arm between the cover and the foam to help position the foam, especially in the corners. We're working through the cushions a washer load at a time. The covers take up a lot of space in the washer when dry but not nearly as much when we so we started with four small covers by themselves and we're working up the number and size of the covers we wash at one time. We also plan each wash so there's no confusion on which cover goes on which block of foam.

Do you actually use a freezer compartment? The Dometic they're installing now (or the '26's at least) have a removable one, and its much better as now I have room for taller stuff. Annoying that jams, pasta sauce and the like doesn't fit anywhere except on their side otherwise. I also have a Dometic CFX5 75 in the truck for when we need more stuff. The compartments are individually settable via Bluetooth or front panel, to freezer/fridge. Being an EV there's lots of power in the bed, I have a portable battery plugged into that which tops off when we drive, and powers the cooler otherwise. I got this on sale but there's equivalent cheaper ones Anyhow the other advantage is no more ice buildup since its just a fridge now. On the downside, their design is for moisture to collect on the top area (former freezer) and it drips down which is annoying. This is actually their design ... anyhow easy to 3D print a collection tray and funnel it to the drain hose which I'll do at some point. I believe (can check if you're interested) a Dometic NRX 130C with dark stainless front. Freezer compartment is removeable as mentioned, it has a latch which props it open when unpowered to keep airflow going through it. Really a nice fridge I like it

Pretty rare out here on the West Coast, I'm the only one (registered) North of SF. Though I did see this rare bird in nearby camping hotspot while mine was being built last year. I bought sight unseen and was really impressed with how beautiful it looks on the road. I took it as a good omen

Yes, there is a restriction to both the incoming City Water and Fresh Water lines. OTT plumbing diagrams only show the backflow prevention devices, labeled "check valves" in the plumbing diagrams. However, they also install flow restrictors. See basement picture rear of our hull. I can't be certain if this is true for all hulls, but take a look along the rear wall of your basement. This slows down the City Water and slows down how long it takes to fill the Fresh Tank! It's been on my long list to remove both restrictors while cleaning the check valves, but like you, we use City Water about 1 in 10 days camping. We have also used the water pump to boost internal water flow when necessary. What you're doing, using an actual pressure regulator vs. a flow restrictor, on the incoming City Water is the right way to do it, but given an inline restrictor, you're slowing down GPM 2 times. I have never used a pressure regulator knowing flow restrictors are built-in. I use a filter for desert water but don't bother with good mountain water. We do not drink water from our fresh tank anyway. I drain the Fresh Tank 1-2 times a year and bleach it every couple of years.

I upgraded to the 2 5/16" ball while still using the Andersen WDH, a new Andersen 2 5/16" ball and friction cone for about $90. Later after the Alcan upgrade I stopped using the Andersen all together. I now use a simple HD ball mount that I had previously. It's worth repeating. Do NOT use the Andersen ball mount without the WDH or at least place the lock pin below, otherwise there is only gravity and a circlip keeping the ball cone in place.

Another use for the fuse located at the jack is to make it more difficult for a thief. When leaving it in a sketchy situtation, I lower the tongue and remove that fuse. Want my Ollie, they will have more difficulty than planned for. GJ

I received email reminders from Josh White @ OTT. Last one was 8/20. You may not be on the list or maybe being flagged as spam. Perhaps they closed it down early because it’s full. But there are always cancellations, so give them a call and check on your email situation.

The originals are uncomfortable and i have considered replacing for that reason alone. Ours look a bit too good yet for me to spring for it. Pass the ketchup, please. 😉

Glacier National Park, Saint Mary Campground near eastern entrance to the park. The campground amenities vary a bit depending on the loop, but they have hot showers (free) as well as fresh water spigots, waste water dump station (for gray water from dish washing) and an RV dump near the entrance. Full of berries and full of bears; maybe that's why the campground isn't full! The sites cannot be reserved before the day-of-arrival, but it wasn't a problem to find space. I'm so glad I took the opportunity to come here this year, at the suggestion of a friend. The weather has been perfect camping weather; cold enough to want a camp fire, and damp enough to be allowed to have a camp fire.

Yeah that's a boundary condition. If you were a painter that would be the picture frame you're working in, so you don't think of it much (or at least us lab rats don't, the marketing guys do 😅) Like, a 100 ft canvas is off the table, but the market will support a 4' portrait, so figure out how to make a picture within that frame. Which is why govt jobs go off the rails so easily if they're not fixed price contracts 🙃 tl/dr The Oliver is pretty fascinating from a project standpoint. Never ceases to amaze me how the way you set up a project determines where it ends up. The Oliver brothers put 'The Big Idea' as it's called as "Highest quality". So nothing was spared. I marvel at the complex shape they have for this body. They actually molded in a 'glass skirt to hide the frame! But wait, it does more, it also acts as a water basin if any leaks occur. I've gotten a few big one setting up a filter unit. No shorts, the water just collected and drain, no damage at all. Hold on, what else? Those provide inner body channels to run piping and hoses. Finally it so happens to also provide wire run channel under the trailer, for propane and two exterior cameras I installed! Utterly protected and a snap to install. That's some genius design in one feature, just because they're not afraid of doing fiberglass and went the extra distance on the body shape. I'm a weirdo, I'll sit outside my trailer and just admire the fiberglass all day 😂🥰

@Omward Bound Appreciate your post. Very nice looking ceramic application. We're in Lincoln County NC, will give Blake a call when we're ready for ceramic coating. Thanks, Bill

Ollie spotted traveling north on California 101 / Arcata, Ca 12 noon Sept 1st. Black graphics. Not many Ollies' located on the west coast but three known Ollie's are located Arcata/Eureka area.

@jd1923 I'll drive out to see you soon enough. I'll bring your favorite ice cream and drink.

Does everyone's outdoor shower head basically stink? As in horrible water pressure? I even replaced mine in the past two years with the same model as original, because original cracked as they all do. Maybe I have junk in the Pex line to the shower head, or the head stinks. I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere. I figured I'd ask since it's being talked about. Thanks.

I grabbed my borescope and not only grabbed some pics of the rusted screen in the overflow pipe, but a short video of my borescope magnet attachment trying to pull more screen out. Some of the rotted screen simply fell out upon touching it. I got the rest out with a long angled pick. Also, I had drained my fresh water tank on Sunday after a trip, but did not raise the nose of the camper high enough to remove enough water. You can see the reflection of the borescope light in the water. So I raised the rear jack stands, and raised the nose up a good bit more to drain even more water. I bet no one has shown the inside of the water tank before. LOL I can now see how an old rusted screen mesh could block the overflow. Also time to clean tank. fresh-water-overflow-screen-removal.mp4

I put some 303 Protectant on the cover to protect it from the sun. (I put the same stuff on the decals and all the plastic parts of the trailer exposed to the sun.) https://a.co/d/0crxHVph

I don’t think I’ve seen any white plastic (PVC) pipe - only PEX. Where is there PVC?

I also did the POE injector method for powering the Mini. As far as mounting I initially had it on top of my flagpole but the ended up being a problem with the cable and the flags getting bunched up. This is my current method for mounting on the Oliver. It has been working great so far. Links below. NEEWER Aluminum Mount Accessories Kit Compatible with Starklink Mini, Adjustable Roof Rack Super Clamp Mount, RV Ladder Pole Clamp Kit for Yacht Camper, Not for The Lastest Pipe Adapter, ST83+NA02 https://a.co/d/5qcuwb6 ZUOS 8" Glass Suction Cup Lifter, 560lbs Load Capacity, Green, Metal Handle & ABS Pump, Vacuum Glass Lifter https://a.co/d/ippF5gt

Don, The reason I asked was we are only 6 numbers apart on our hull #'s so the same person probably worked on our Progressive surge protector box but mine is either upside down or the cover had been taken off for maintenance and reinstalled upside down...makes it a little easier to read from the top :) Makes no difference either way but since there is that difference I'm wondering if there is anything else different down there. You mentioned "hard rubber frame covering" but that area, in mine, appears to be the top of the gray water tank and before I investigated I was planning to possibly drill in that area to attach. I'll probably find another location since there seems to plenty of possibilities. Our mini is working very well and definitely recommend as others do. Out POE injector/converter is on the way...yay! I'll tackle this project soon. Ditto on the couplers. Thanks much, John