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topgun2, this is what happens when you stay in Cracker Barrel parking lots too often! Google maps cameras catch you. This location happens to be on our way most anywhere west of Virginia so we stay here often. Maybe too often! 🤪

When installing bronze bushings in Ollie's spring eye, I coat the outside of the bushing and inside of the spring eye with castor oil to help the soft bronze slide into the spring eye easier, attempting to prevent damage to the soft bronze bushing. The last bronze bushings I installed used a piece of threaded rod from a local Lowes with flat washers and nuts.

Hull #113 now being 8 years old has needed a lot of upgrades and M&R our first year of ownership. A point of contention as always been the manual stairs, the back-breaking effort it takes to pull them down, metal on metal, and more so to put them up. I had greased the moving parts, and it did not seem to help much. Pressure washing it last time, an edge of the slip-resistant tape came off. Prior owner had wrapped the steps with some kind of rubber cushion and that dirtied the steps where it laid. They looked awful. It was time for proper restoration! I disassembled all components of the stairs so they could be cleaned and reconditioned in my shop. If you do this, make sure you have everything you need out of the Oliver as it is very difficult to get inside afterwards! First, I used a heat gun to loosen the glue on the tape and scraped it off. The glue residue was intense. I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, and it barely budged it. The rest I sanded off using a cordless Dewalt orbital sander and near a dozen sanding discs. There are better sanding tools, but this is what I had. After more and more detail sanding the aluminum started to look pretty good. The key detail work to getting the stairs to operate easier was to file the groove the axle slides within (see pic 2). I used a small hand file and spent an hour working it in the direction of the movement. Most of the machining marks were 90 degrees the wrong direction. I only sanded this groove on the base as I did not want to detail that whole frame, just the steps. I used this product for the stair surfaces: Amazon.com: 3M Safety-Walk Slip Resistant Tape, 4 in x 15 ft, Anti Slip Tape, Adhere Without Wrinkling, Curling, Tearing, Shrinking or Lifting, Self-Adhesive Backing For Quick & Easy Application (610B-R4X180) : Industrial & Scientific After sanding and placement of the anti-slip tape, I applied an automotive ceramic coating to all the sanded aluminum to slow oxidation. Got to this point today. Friday I will have time to remount. The frame is held on with 4 standard carriage bolts and nylon locknuts. The two stairs are connected to each other with a short, geared press-fit specialty bolt with a Torx-55 head, that are not easy to remove. Pictures were taken before applying the ceramic coating. It should look great when mounted. Boy, I hate sanding and polishing work! 🤣

I live in Duluth if you need a hand with anything! Happy to run up with some tools, beer, and/or moral support!

24” TV and dinette are no more, replaced with 32” TV and permanent “day bed”—dare I say, living room vibes?

Loving these Colorado temps - Reset 2.0 #1364 at Eleven Mile Lake State Park Colorado. If you stay here do take time to do the Canyon. (What am I saying, most people with Olivers will be in the dispersed camping in the Canyon 🙂 )

@jdmmtx ; If you're still in need of replacement leaf springs, you're welcome to have my OEM 4-leaf springs - no longer needed because we replaced them last April using the Alcan 5-leaf spring packs that @Steph and Dud B mentioned above. Shoot me a PM with a shipping address and cover the shipping costs... You can have 1 or all 4 of the springs. They are in serviceable condition. Cheers, Art

We spent last week at Ridgway State Park, just 20 minutes north of Ouray. We drove up from our son’s house in Durango but didn’t take 550 this time. We took the western route which is about 40 minutes longer but provides with some different scenery. It takes you by Telluride. It was a nice drive. This is just a few miles outside of Telluride on the way to Ridgway. Another stop on the way up to Ridgway. Our site at Ridgway State Park We did a walk around the town of Ridgway. This is the town park in the middle of town. Downtown Ouray. Downtown Ouray. Hiking around the Ridgway Reservoir. Nice hike, good views. More hiking.

After lugging around my old heavy Gen-1 Starlink for a few years, I was thrilled to get the new Starlink Mini. It’s small and light, and the router is built into the dishy. It speed tested at 202 Mbps, a very respectable speed, although not as fast as the Gen-3 which typically runs over 300 Mbps. The Mini comes with a 50’ x ~1/8” diameter power cord that has 5.5 mm barrel connectors on each end. It also comes with a 120 volt AC wall transformer that puts out 30 volts dc (vdc.) The Mini is rated to run on 12 to 48 volts vdc, and 25 to 40 watts. It peaks at 60 watts with snow melt on. The 12 Vdc rating is an attractive feature, particularly for Boondockers who don’t have inverters. However, when I first hooked it up to the Oliver’s 12 Vdc battery… it would’t work?? After some investigation, it turns out that it’s not so simple and I’ll try to explain why: Given that the AC transformer puts out 30 volts, and the power is about 40 watts, then it would be drawing 1.3 amps per Ohms law (40w/30v = 1.3 amps.) With the same calculation at 12 volts, the amperage increases to 3.3 amps. The resistance of the long thin power cord can’t handle this higher amperage and the resulting voltage drop puts it below the minimum 12 volts operating range. In fact, I did some bench testing and found it would only work at voltages over 18 volts. There are solutions to this issue including cutting the cable shorter, using a larger gauge cable, or increasing the voltage. Without a better option, I chose to increase the voltage. I looked at cheapie power converters that would probably work, but I wanted something more robust and higher quality. I found a Victron Orion TR 12/24-5, isolated, DC to DC Converter, and it was perfect for the job. It has a 12 Vdc (+/-) input and an adjustable output of 20 to 30 Vdc at 5 amps. Standby power is under 80 mA, and it has remote on/off switching capability. It comes factory set at 24 Vdc, but I adjusted it to 30 Vdc output with the potentiometer on the front. To connect the Mini to the trailer’s 12 Vdc power system, I installed a 5.5 mm female panel mount socket into the Satellite TV inlet. I removed the Coax connector and the 5.5 mm socket and nut fits perfectly in it’s place. Oliver conveniently labeled it “Satellite.” If you need the satellite TV, then install a third “Furrion” inlet as I did for my old starlink RJ45 connector. I mounted the Victron under the rear seat on the street side. The socket wiring was sheathed and routed along the ceiling of the outside storage garage. There are a number of options to pick-up 12 volts in that area, I took power off one of the circuit breakers. I ran the negative wire to the ground bus under the rear dinette seat. The Mini comes with both a snap-in kick-stand and a 2” pole mount, and they’re both necessary for optimum RV use. I prefer having it on a pole, but we often have to move the dishy away from the trailer for a clear sky view. That’s why it’s a bad idea to shorten the cord. It also has an RJ45 port that I suppose is for hardwiring without WIFI, but I probably won’t ever use that feature. I built-up some PVC fittings on my 10’ Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT) mast to fit the Mini’s pole adapter. (See the post for Tacky Starlink Dishy Mast). A little sanding was involved, and the starlink mount uses a thumb screw to hold it in place. It’s better to turn the Victron off when not in use, so I recommend using the remote switching feature with a switch installed in an easily accessible location. I’m too forgetful to switch the Victron off every time, so I came up with a way to turn it on & off when the Mini’s power cord is plugged in & out. Read on if your interested in that part of the installation: The “three pin” 5.5 mm female socket sold by Amazon has a built-in switch that’s designed for appliances that use either batteries or a 120v transformer supply. When the transformer is plugged in, the pin-3 switch opens to disconnect the batteries. This is opposite of what’s needed for the Victron remote switch, but it can be used to trigger a digital relay and it’s actually easier than it sounds. Amazon carries fun little programable 5 &10 amp timer/relays for under $20. I already had the 10 amp version in the Oliver for a hot water recirculation pump timer, and it works great! The 5 amp is adequate for this application, and you will also need the $20 dollar re-usable Bluetooth programer. They use 50 μA of idle current, which is nothing, and they can be programed for delay-on, delay-off, flashers, dimmers, duck decoys, and more. But for our application, we’re just interested in the trigger functions, specifically the “ground-open” trigger. Before installation, the relay has to be programed from a smart phone or computer. It’ links by WiFi to flash the program into the relays memory. Use wire nuts to connect the timer and programer together, and power them from a USB port. Follow the well written and simple programing instructions using the settings shown in the screenshot below. The relay requires a timing function, so I arbitrarily used function #12, which is “delay-on.” I set it randomly to 1.5 seconds. The trigger is programed to use the “Trig Blue” set at #5, which corresponds to the blue wire used as a “grounded trigger.” The green wire trigger is disabled. My wiring sketch shows that the timer is powered with 12 volts from the Victron’s positive and negative inputs. The relay’s yellow output wire feeds the positive side of the Victron’s remote switch (the negative side is not connected). The Victron’s output feeds the 5.5 mm power socket, and the blue trigger wire goes to the 5.5mm socket’s pin-3. Use a continuity tester to identify pin-3, it’s normally shorted to the negative lead of the socket and it “opens” when the male connecter is plugged in. The socket barrel is negative, or ground, and the center pin is positive 12 vdc. There is one other step to make this work. This Victron model is “Isolated,” meaning that the input and output “negative” terminals are isolated from each other. It needs to be “non-isolated” because the timer is grounded to the Victron input, and the socket is grounded to the output, and the trigger needs continuity between the two. So remove the jumper wire that comes on the Victron’s remote switch, and use it to jump across the two negative terminals. Victron support confirmed that shorting the grounds is not a problem, it just un-isolates it. This works satisfyingly well! I checked out the power draw with the solar turned off, and while streaming a video. It was 2 amps, 27 watts (after subtracting the parasite load). That’s a huge improvement over my previous Starlink, and I don’t have to worry about running the inverter and draining down the batteries anymore. I hope someone finds this useful Cheers! Geoff

Here is the replacement spring info Oliver Service sent me for my 2021 E2. They can be found on Amazon in pairs for $68. Note that the springs on Amazon appear to have nylon bushings rather than bronze, but they would serve to get you back on the road and home where you can figure out your final solution Please open a service ticket with Oliver so they are aware of the issue and can advise for your exact hull#

theOrca, The Dometic FreshJet comes with a very nice factory seal where it makes contact with the Oliver. It also comes with four additional factory installed blocks at each corner that help distribute the weight of the unit over a larger area. In addition the FreshJet weighs less than the Penguin. The bolt pattern is inside of the opening, the same as the old noisy Penguin. I hope this answers some of your concerns, you are welcome to message me if you have any questions about my AC installation.

For anyone considering adding a marine hatch to their bath vanity, I did this mod and I love it! But I think that you should take a look at @Frank C's version at THIS link. His bath vanity mod was a unique approach that I think is worth considering! Mossey

Thread here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/&ved=2ahUKEwj7uaXMrKSHAxWUElkFHRtoA9wQFnoECCsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2TuWEqPQCoyqb1wVMIHpcR One of the posts lists his replacement specs as: "Made in USA with USA sourced 5160 spring steel -Bronze eye bushings vs. plastic -2,000lb rating/ea vs. 1,750 (will not change gvwr as axles/bearings remain determining factor) -5 leaves vs, 4 -second leaf extends underneath eye on each end (protecting common break area) -steel, bolted spring keepers (one each end) vs a single, sheet metal band -width = 1.75" -drop = 3” -length (eye-to-eye) = 25.25” The company I sourced them from is ALCAN."

Everything's BIGGER in Texas!

John, that is good looking work. The oldest of these double steps have now been on the road for over 10 years. The first 50 or so trailers came with a folding single step. Many of the early builds had their single step replaced with the double ones. Since aluminum has some sort of natural tendency to stick or bind on itself, most all owners of trailers older than a few years have likely encountered this issue. I've always just hit it with a little WD-40 and called it good. MY solution in no way compares to what you've done, but it will last long enough to get you home from a month long trip when you can do a really good job. Thanks for the write-up.

Just remember that if you disconnect the batteries from everything including the solar charge controller you need to disconnect the charge controller first from the solar panels. Or risk damaging the solar charge controller.

This is what we use, and a small can and a couple of small brushes.

Worked on this Saturday afternoon and an hour today to button it up! I started working it like some installs here, and I was able to poke a steel fish-tape from the back of the pantry down and right through the foil-wrapped Styrofoam to the exterior fridge opening. Then I thought about routing the wires down and realized if I fish the wires down about 20" further back at the rear of the fridge, the wires could go straight down to the bottom in one line. The bottom of the close side of the fridge is where the LP burner is located, and you would have to divert your wiring somewhere. The whole Beech Lane wire harness and a pair of switch wires (yellow/stripped red) fished through after cutting the opening shown with a rounded chisel and a few tugs. The temperature sensor taped to the upper incline. Switch legs run up and the across the back of the upper kitchen cabinet. Yes, removing the 110V outlet makes fishing easier. One leg is connected to the ground at the exterior base of the fridge and the other to the fan ground. I taped this switch prior to reinserting. The fan comes with clips to mount to the exterior vent cover (not a great idea for several reasons). I modified the fan assembly so that the cabling would be captured by the frame and tied down. Notice the screw holes left and right drilled larger for mounting to the ceiling of the vent opening. The fan was first rubber-mounted with one screw bottom center in place of a small screw that held the two fans together. Drilled pilot holes and screwed up in each top corner. Notice the 1/2" automotive wire loom LHS that holds the harness and switch wiring. Bottom vent opening showing the junction B+/B- source, with harness +/- connected here and taped. Control panel in upper kitchen cabinet, mounted with 3M VHB. No interior drilling harness just hides behind rubber floormat. Can reach in nicely or move the tea kettle if you must. Everything tested positively, the ON/OFF switch on the OTT light panel, manual mode with fan speed adjustments, and auto mode temp settings matched my RUUVi sensor readings. It was hot in the afternoon and then a front came through and dropped temps 20 degrees. The fan turned itself off and when I set temp two clicks lower it resumed. Thanks @Ronbrink for your help! The Beech Lane product is great, works well, fits the opening fully, and is quiet even on 100%. When it's running, and you're inside with the entrance door shut, you will not hear it. If you do not have the OEM built-in ON/OFF switch, don't worry you should not need one. My panel has one, so I felt obligated to make it function again. No complaints from this old installer! 🤣

John there are many videos on YouTube on how to calibrate it yourself, here’s one.

The first thing I would do is to plug the MW into a standard 110 outlet using a GFCI extension cord like This one. If it doesn't trip when you open the door then your GFCI outlet on your Ollie is most likely going bad, and if it does trip, then the MW itself is the issue.

Sitting outside at Taughannock Falls, NY in a primitive campsite with 25% battery life left (920aH bank). I have been running the AC off and ON for 2 days. First time I have had to put to use all of my battery backups (GZ4K, etc). And yes most of the AC run time has been for the 2 knuckleheads we enjoy so much. Mimi is expecting again! And, I agree, It just depends how much boon-docking you plan on doing. I wish I had 2000AH! Best, Mike Side note: Starlink is working great!

Make sure the red lever on the Optifuse resettable breaker is pushed inwards (see arrow on picture). The Optifuse breaker on the left shown in the photo is in the open state when the lever is popped out like that. The Optifuse on the right is closed. The red rubber covers on the outer two items are just contact covers on the other self resetting breakers. The Optifuse breakers can manually opened by pressing the little red button on them (which will make the red lever pop out), and then pushing the red lever back in to reset. And this is my first post in a long while since we sold our Ollie. A sad day when it was towed away, but it went to a good new owner. We’ve moved on to other travel plans now. But I still lurk here on the forums occasionally 🙂

👍 Their Oil-Based is the best for rust prevention and adhesion, based on my experiences! Next up, Rust-Oleum Professional spray cans.

Nice job! Adding dual fans was a game changer for us. Where we're currently camping it's 90+ outside and our packed fridge is staying in the mid 30's on AC without any problem. It would sometimes get into the danger zone before the addition of fans.

There is no part number. When you call, ask for Lew or Mike and tell them you have a Oliver Elite II(this way they can make sure the centering pin is set up for our spring under axle configuration). According to Alcan, their springs are rated at 2,750 lb/ea. While most of us who have installed them notice very little incremental stiffness, you should be aware of this going into the purchase. If you order your new ubolts and nuts from them, make sure you know your axle diameter when you call so they send the correct ubolt size.

I took both my torque wrenches to my auto mechanic. I've been a loyal customer and he was happy to take them. When the Snap-on truck stopped by, as they do fairly regularly, he had the calibration tools on hand in his truck as they regularly test/calibrate torque tools for all the shops they visit. One of my wrenches was a Snap-on, the other was a Precision Instrument. Fortunately, they both tested in spec. Good to know! Dave

SDG said they would document and take pics of the install. I will try to gather as much information as I can, as well. On family vacation, so I am kind of sneaking this into the mix. Ha! Mike

"No kill like overkill" 😉 4/0 cable and connectors are just harder to install and bend radius is higher. Victron is perfectly happy with 1/0 cable up to 5 meters long and a 400 amp fuse. I'll use 2/0 for 4 foot run and feel perfectly comfortable with that. And I am typically the king of overkill.

Update: July 13, 2024 I completed the Houghton 3400 “Humidity Mod” as presented in the attached "Wiring Modification for Interior Fan" document. This excellent write-up was provided by GSM Bear, Version 2 and posted 7/30/2023. His document needs to be fully understood before starting this Mod. It took me about 2 hours working off a ladder on the curb side to carefully complete the mod. Suggestions: The suggested wire measurements are adequate and allow for re-termination if necessary. No need to add any extra length. I recommend that you prefabricate the new brown, black, and white wires. Much easier to do so on your bench vs. on the roof. Then physically plug them into the relay. One less thing to worry about when on the ladder. You will need all the “Parts and Tools Needed” as listed by GSMBear. Additional Tools and Supplied I Found Useful: Ladder Head lamp Wire cutter Magnet on a stick Large Phillips bit Silicone to reseal the electrical box Needle nosed & regular pliers Camera (I took pictures to allow me to “blow up” to get a closer look into the electrical box connections.) Mod Results: The Houghton ran as expected as the fan shut down with the compressor when it cycled down to low speed (Fan set to auto). Houghton also worked as expected with the fan set to low speed. This is the ultra good dehumidifying and quietest setting. Significantly lowered the humidity levels in the cabin. I had to set the remote temperature to a MUCH lower setting to get the cabin to a cool level. The unit Cycle time was significantly extended with the mod. As in extended way too infrequently. I believe that at the end of a compressor run, the fan shuts down with the overhead super cold coils, The coils then chill the air in the unit and being heavier it sinks down past the thermistor. As a result, the process keeps the thermistor “Chilled”. This delays the restart longer than desired. Moving the thermister to a location outside of the unit is needed Hence, the Thermistor Mod is required, as GSMBear states in his document. More to follow with completion of the Thermistor Mod in the next day or two. GJ GSM BEAR V2 RecPro Houghton Interior Fan Mod v2.pdf

The stabilizer jacks well exceed their intended use; but do require special attention as to not over extend/retract, which can cause a fuse to blow and/or gear head damage. Additionally, one should routinely check the jack mounts for loose hardware and ensure they are examined as part of the departure checklist.

I got ours done today and I asked Chris to walk on it first with her light touch. I didn't want to even climb aboard with my work shoes on! 🤣 Yes, they will get dirty again as soon, as we hit an Arizona dirt road, likely September. Man, all-in-all this turned out really nice! Dirty later yes, but I can pull it down and put it up with one centered hand and just a light push. I did make a minor modification, adding washers to take up space on the axle, since there was about 3/8" of left to right slop (way too much). The added washers cut that in half. This is some of the issue in the difficulty in working the steps. Anybody considering this full maintenance, order a new set of short splined Torx bolts from OTT first (see pic). These are very short and upon compression, they get somewhat deformed. I was able to rethread one, but not the other after many attempts. Temporarily I used a 5/16" bolt with nylock nut. I have rebuilt a half dozen old car and truck suspensions, done over 20 brake jobs and if I could not get these bolts to thread, most DIYers would not have a chance, I promise. I have another item or two I want to order from OTT and will likely by 3 of these. One to replace the bad one and a pair for the next time (unless they cost $20 each)! The secret in getting the steps to push and pull smoothly is to file the up-n-down slanted groove where the axle lies (pic above). Then I lubed all contact point with Napa Sil-Glyde: Lubricant - Multi Purpose Sil-Glyde Lubricates 4oz. Plastic Tube BK 7651351 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com) I've used this product in multiple brake jobs, rebuilding the calipers on my '84 Goldwing and more (lasting for YEARS now). After rubbing it into every contact point, the ends of the axle, every spacer and washer, the bottom edge where the steps contact the frame, and the frame contact points too (not a WD-40 fan)... Work the steps back and forth several times and then spend time removing all the excess, as excess grease collects dirt. I'm not going to fight with these steps anymore, and for years to come!

Rebecca and I send best wishes - hope that the surgery goes well and quick recovery.

"If" I powdercoated the steps, I'd probably go with silver. Aluminum color. I treat mine with garage door silicone spray, and no issues. White would undoubtedly get really dirty looking, riding where they do. The incredibly sturdy double step is standard for most of you, but it was an upgrade (years later) for those of us with 2008's. I cracked a rib on a crazy site trying to reach a footstool below the step. 2010? It flipped. Anyway, one of the best upgrades, ever, standard for all you new folks.

We used a plug in "cigarette plug" charger for laptop. Don't carry one anymore. Phones and USB tablet are fine. We don't watch TV, so yeah, not an issue. I have 12v hair dryer (somewhere, havent used it in 20 years) and a 12v blender, from the late 70s. I cook on fire, grill, or lp stove. We're admittedly oddball. We camp to get away from the signals and entanglement, but keep a line open for family. I honestly don't care about ever getting another hard-wired inverter. But that's me. Everyone has a different camping style, and they should equip their trailer accordingly.

Okay, here are more details on the new axles not able to be fit onto #110. In the attached picture, my trailer's hangers are welded a bit too far inward on the sub-frame. The new axles do not have ANY "play" or "slop" in them for a fudge-factor. This is unlike the original axles. The frame hangers MUST be spot-on in regards to measurements. So, between the left and right hangers, there is not enough room. They needed 3/8" more to make them fit correctly. Oh well, it saved me a bit of $$. They said my shocks are still good and they installed my self-provided EZ-Flex suspension parts for me. The new windows and shades look awesome and the new batteries are working with more Amp Hours than I had with the crappy Interstate batteries. Jason seemed to give me a "facial & verbal compliment" and said the trailer is still looking great. I think he was a bit surprised due to the age of the camper. Wait until CGI gets their hands on it tomorrow. Oh, also, they are out of trailer covers and likely will not order them again, since not too many folks get them and .... some other reason, can't remember. He suggested I call Calmark Covers to see if they can still get me one. It will make the ceramic coating last longer. Mostly only cover it in winter and early spring.

Footprint and the required opening are different subjects, not at all the same. Footprint equates to where and how much support the roof provides the upper unit. You do not want unsupported weight when fiberglass is being stressed by having that weight transferred to it by leverage. It is desirable to have the entire floor pan of the upper unit supported by the roof. Bolt pattern is always "outside" of the 14x14 opening, and is sometimes very different between brands. These are subjects which require "data" to resolve.

The two rear jacks are exactly the same mechanically as the front one, they just don't have a control head. Barker makes them specially for Oliver so you won't find them listed online.

At 6’6”, now down to 200#, I wondered the same. 1 king or 2 twins. I am a side sleeper, and must have like the fetal position so much in the womb, that I sleep (legs) tucked up a bit. So no brainer for me. 2 twins. Added benefit, if I get a leg cramp, rather than have to jump up in the middle of the night, then try to stand up to stretch out a calf/foot… I just stretch out that leg an press against the wall. Works every time. And Maggie sleeps right thru it. Bathroom shower is difficult for me. So I sit on regular toilet seat and then shower. I am looking for a reinforced lid though… the thought me splitting/cracking the lid and part of me that is sitting down getting pinched does concern me, however, I have not heard of that happening. B~Out

Thanks for the details. I just looked at mine and the outside of the hangers are flush with the subframe so I assume I'll be OK if I ever need to change my axles. There I go "assuming" things again.. 🤣

Not sure what Jason's comments meant regarding new Dexter axles not fitting on @Wayfinder's hull....??? @ScubaRx's hull #050, as well as our #226 retro-fitted the D52's w/12" drums and Alcan 5-leaf spring packs - both are config'd with the EZ-Flex system. We'll be interested in hearing the back story....

Bit the bullet today and I will soon be 600AH into LiFePO4! 🤣 These were $1,100 ea since I first heard of Epoch. They just dropped the price $100 and are running a 4th of July sale, 10% off another $100, and free shipping, NO sales tax, life is good!

I'm not entirely sure yet, but it was a measurement that was, I think Jason said, 3/16 inch off, or something like that. I'll get details when I pick it up. Hopefully no more issues were encountered by the team. I don't want to be... "that guy". LOL

Well, as I just posted in the FB group. I can't get new axles on #110, they will not fit, but I did go ahead and get new AGMs for now! I just do not have time this year to fiddle with Lithium experimentation myself. They are installing my Dexter EZ-Flex system, which I had not yet gotten around to installing. A shame they spend so many man-hours trying to fit the axles onto the frame. I'm very pleased though with everything so far. Very impressed by the integrity of the Oliver service team. Jason did say the Progressive Industries converter I just upgraded to, which has a Lithium switch on it, part # PD4045CSV, is not "certified" with Lithionics, but is for Battleborns. The way I use the camper now, I really have no real "need" for Lithium, although I know I will love the future upgrade. Let's face it, guys can get each other "excited" over new shiny tech toys. I know I do. This might be the last set of lower-end batteries. Mine were not even able to maintain the hot water pot, which only needs 1050 watts of power. Since the "rube" who installed the batteries at the NC dealer connected the positive inverter cable to the wrong end of the batteries bank, the batteries did not degrade evenly, or together. So, screw it. Out with the old. At least Oliver will wire everything back up correctly. They have all the pre-cut connectors I'm sure. Jason said it takes less than an hour typically to install the batteries. Hopefully no more surprises. New large windows are in along with new shades.

Please add to your list: Ron and Brooxie Brinkley, Hull #579, Hull Name My COW, Site #227. Thanks

My order arrived yesterday and it *did* have the LED light included. Was a little worried with so many receiving theirs without one when buying though Amazon and Ebay.

I used some copper bus bar I had left over from one of my airplane builds. I either got it from Aircraft Spruce, or more likely McMaster-Carr. 1/8" thick by 1" wide. I bent it to shape in a vise, used an annular cutter to make the holes for the battery stud and disconnect. Used heat shrink to cover as much of the exposed copper as possible.

A Google search of this site will lead you to several posts of how owners have installed these switches. Here is a picture of how I did mine during the lithium battery upgrade (which was shamelessly copied from Geronimo John). Tie down straps added after the picture was taken.

Our coupler was black when new. I touch it up annually with Black Rustoleum. Mike

Two nights ago it was 27 degrees here along the Taylor River in my Gunnison NF dispersed camp site. I'm going to be sorry to leave this weather when I move on! PS @topgun2 -- yesterday I finally spotted 3 Moose right along the river, just down the road (closer to the reservoir). No Elk, but Doe with spotted Fawns. This has been a wonderful area.

One of the great features of the Oliver trailer design is the fast and easy (no tools needed) access to ALMOST all of the plumbing, heating, and electrical systems through the hatches under the dinette seats and the beds, or by removing the kitchen cabinet drawers. One area that’s NOT readily accessible is the area under the bathroom vanity, even though there is plumbing, electrical, and furnace ductwork all tucked inside the vanity. The storage cubby in the front of the vanity is screwed AND CAULKED in place by Oliver at the factory, so access is a bit more complicated than the other areas. I recently needed to get into that vanity area for some inspection and maintenance, and after completing that I wanted to make future access easier (no tools needed and no caulking). I know some owners have replaced the storage cubby with a hinged marine access panel, but I didn’t want to lose the cubby storage. So here’s a detailed description of a simple modification I did, along with links to the parts used. Access is now fast and easy. No-Slip Clip-On Barrel Nut, for 0.025" to 0.15" Panel Thickness, 8-32 Thread Size https://www.mcmaster.com/94850A111 #8-32 x 1" Thumb Screw Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZVLZKD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length https://a.co/d/1uWUZB3 Molex -3 Match Set - (3-Pin) w/14-20 AWG, Wire Connector - 2.13mm D, Latch Lock, MLX https://a.co/d/gapvioi