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We do not bring but a few clothes that need to hang. We felt like we were losing so much storage area. I built shelves to fill the lower area of the closet. That curve is a bugger to work with. Shelves have a 4" lip in the front to help hold the gear. They are not perfect but work well.

After replacing the protective strip around the “dog house” LPG tank cover, I realized I ordered enough for the spare tire cover. So after removing the cover when accessing the tire, I can place it flat on any surface without dinging the edge on sharp rocks or debris. It may seal the compartment a bit better now also.

I decided to weigh my trailer because there is a lot of discussion. I have a set of scales I use to do weight and Ballance on Aircraft and they are very accurate. I did a quick and dirty weight but will re do it on the hanger floor in another week fully loaded. The trailer is a 2022 LEII with solar, lithium a convection microwave and two full 30 Gallon propane tanks. At the moment it is still winterized so it has no water. We have a Lavio toilet so there is no black tank water. It is loaded and ready to go with everything we travel with less the 240pounds of fresh water. The trailer weighs in at 5,220 pound add the fresh water and we are at 5,460 pounds. The weight on the tongue is 509 lbs. I plan to re weigh it with the fresh water full to see if it changes the tongue weight. So that’s it in a nut shell. Before someone comments I put the trailer back down level on the tires and moved the load cell under the trailer ball to get the tongue weight, I did not take a picture of it. Bill

Nice job! Here is a where you can ordered the edging off Amazon. 😊I used this on the edge of the dog house aka propane tank hood as well. And decided to use it on the fiberglass edges of the twin beds.

I just returned from another trip camping in temps below freezing. In the last two seasons, I've now done more then two month's of camping with temps staying below freezing even during the days. Have done the mods to assure that all areas of the basement stays above 50 degrees even when outside temperatures have dropped below zero. Tested with registered digital thermometers. I've now had multiple frozen lines under those conditions. I'm confident the culprit is the insulation (or lack thereof) and especially the type of insulations used - reflectix. This type of insulation does OK with radiational heat loss but not good at all with conductive heat loss. Translation is the pex lines freeze at points where they actually sit directly against the reflectix allowing the cold from outside to transfer through to the lines. The lines froze after a couple of days where temps were consistently in the low teens. My take is that these trailers without extensive mods are not safe to use the water system when outside temps sit in the low 20s for more than a day or so. By allowing air to flow through the basement, this threshold drops another 10 degrees. Without running heat tape along pretty much all pex lines and tank adding warming pads, an Oliver cannot operate with water below that. Our experience may not line up with others. Have asked before and do so here again for anyone who has used their trailer free of mods and used their water in ambient temps below the mid teens to share the particulars of their story. I'd love to be proven wrong on this but feel that, as sold, Olivers are not built for the type winter conditions found where snow is a common place thing.

Here are a few pics of the mod mentioned above - Dog house Edge of bed rails.

Building Process: First I created a template of the floor with a piece of poster paper. I used 5/8 inch plywood to then produce a base piece. I then made two side pieces to go against the two straight walls (shelving board)...(first shelf is 12 1/2 inches tall from the base) They were attached to the base with an additional strip of wood. Nothing is screwed to the camper...I used a strip of window insulation around the edge of the curved surface to eliminate any rubbing against the fiberglass. I then used a piece of cardboard to create a template for the first shelf. I repeated the process with shelf 2. After completing the unit i unscrewed all parts, removed from closet and painted with gloss white paint. Then re-assembled the entire shelf. The post in the middle of each shelf is placed toward the back of the middle of the shelf for additional support.

That is primarily an illustration of why a Jeep owner “airs down” when going onto loose terrain. Wider footprint, more grip, less spinning and trail damage, at the expense of slightly lower ground clearance... It also shows why the tires’ rolling resistance goes up when you deflate your Ollie from 80 to 40 psi. It’s interesting to see that the footprint doubles in area between 40 and 15, but the change is a whole lot less dramatic above 40 psi.,. My sweet spot is 42, because I do minimal Interstate cruising, but lots of back highways and less that ideal road surfaces, AKA POTHOLES. Hit a 3 or 4 inch deep pothole at 50 mph with rock hard tires and you will think your trailer exploded. This shows a main arterial route here in Spokane, where we get lots of freeze thaw cycles. It also shows why the center stripe paint gets worn off so fast, all those studded tires on cars avoiding the holes BTW one of the local weather reporters calls the arteries “artillery” routes. It’s a hoot. John Davies Spokane WA

Trailer's have been wearing out tires for ages. They can run in an amazingly wide range of tire pressures successfully. However running above or below that "Sweet Range" and the tires will make you quite angry. So bottom line we are talking about where in the Sweet Range we should run our OE2's. I submit that all the recommendations above are less than optimal and should not blindly be used. So before you get out your flame throwers, ponder the below first. I believe that within the "Sweet Range": A. Tires run at a lower pressure likely have a better ride for Ollie, but they also require greater power to run down the highway. B. Tires run at lower pressure when damaged get to flat quicker than ones at a higher pressure. This results in less opportunity to get pulled over before you start trashing the highway with dismembered rubber tire components. C. Tires run at higher pressures are more prone to puncture from pot holes and road hazards. Especially so when off road. QUESTION: So GJ, how do you run most efficiently, at a pressure to be the most flat resistant mode, while giving Ollie the best ride, and provide my family the best safety margin should you have a puncture? Answer: You can't have it all at the same time. QUESTION: OK GJ, what tire pressure do you run your Ollie at? Answer: Depends. If I am on the interstate or good roads running at highways speeds I use 50 PSI. When I go off road, I air down to 30 PSI for most conditions. If I am transiting soft ground and need maximum sink resistance, then down to 20 PSI. QUESTION: But GJ that's a PITA isn't it? Answer: Nope. I use a TPMS and an IR temperature reader to keep a watch on bearings (With hub caps removed as JD suggested), have a quality calibrated air gauge, and have a 20V Dewalt compressor. Takes me less than 12 minutes to air up/down four Ollie tires between highway and off road mode. Point is that each of us have different trailer weights that can vary depending on our loads at the time. We also travel different paths that our trailers must endure. SO, is it "OK" to say I air my trailer tires to XX PSI? Sure if it is in the sweet spot. It may be OK, but it sure is not optimal for all purposes as your trailer weight varies, as do your road surfaces and speed. Hence, my recommended Ollie tire pressure is.... It depends. GJ

Hi everyone! I upgraded to a 32 inch. I installed a Sylvox 32" (made in china, but cant find one made in the US.) Its a smart TV with all the bells and whistles. its also a 1080 dpi, so its sharper then the original Vizio. It is also a 12 volt/DC so I don't need to run the inverter to watch tv. I needed a new adapter plate I purchased from Mount-it! (an MI-782), the same people that made the original mount. (an MI-4211). Just bolted the mounting plate to the old stand and then attached the TV to that. It swings up out of the way just fine, and is much nicer to watch then the old 24". I have a 2021 Elite II with the standard floor plan. Got any questions, Id be happy to help out.

We were coming back to the Great Southwest after a month on the road to Key West, and running Goodyear Marathon/Chinabombs we experienced our first and only (knock on wood) right rear tire failure. We run TPMS, which worked perfectly, but a catastrophic failure happens in a couple dozen micro-secs. On a smooth secondary road in good WX, didn't hear anything - but we felt a slight tug and pulled over to inspect. What was left of the tire looked like a "ghost" - only belts and chunks of tread rubber, totally see-through. Fortunately, the relatively slow speed (25-30mph) may have helped to save the wheel well and we didn't experience any significant secondary damage. Limped over to a Discount Tire a few miles away and bought 5 Michelin RIBs. Thanks to having a spare axle!

Save BIG on Battle Born Batteries, Apparel and Gear for 48 HOURS ONLY! Get up to $250 off all Battle Born Battery models, including Heated LiFePO4 options, and 25% off Apparel and Gear. Don’t miss these Spring Savings, purchase now! Sale Ends at 11:59 PM PST on Friday, March 24. BB Spring Sale 48 hour only John Davies Spokane WA

Your closet upgrade is fantastic! I'm thinking it's begging for a nice secure wine rack! Ha! Heck -- a few bungie cords over the top of the bottles... Might work?

I prefer this brand of snap cap. John Davies Spokane WA

We had the dark blotches on our window glaze also...(1st pic) Judging by the debris found in the track, it appears the PO never cleaned the glaze or removed them to clean the tracks (we've only owned our Hull #226 for a few weeks, FYI.). After soaking in bleach over night most of the blotches were dissolved, but the glazing still didn't look fresh. In addition, over time, the strips tend to shrink which caused 1/4" - 3/8" gaps on either end (see second pic). Decided to replace the glaze strips with new white ones... Could've gone black, but we'll see - maybe change them in a few years, who knows. There's definitely an "inside" and "outside" of the glaze strip to consider when installing. See pic #3 - the longer edge goes toward window ("inside")while the shorter lip orients to "outside." Pic #4: shows new glazing being installed into the window sill track... The plan is to simply keep the glaze strips on a regular maintenance schedule and keep them from "blotching" as long a possible. R&R of the strips was definitely an opportune time to clean out the debris collected in the tracks!

I think it is a bad idea for several reasons. A cargo tray and your cooler will be over 100 pounds empty. Adding a bunch of food will bring it way higher, that is a huge cooler. The factory bike rack is rated at 150 pounds cargo weight, I think. The rear of an Ollie is dusty, wet and mucky, not a place for your expensive compressor to be operating while towing in inclement weather or on dirt roads. The up and down motion will be severe, your food will be damaged and rearranged, eggs broken. The theft risk is incredibly high! Sun will beat on it and make it work extra hard. You can put an insulating blanket over it, that helps with heat gain but they are pricy. An ARB one is $400. 1Up makes a very nice tray, but it is about 50 pounds. Their “add on” tray for their bike racks is too small for your cooler. https://www.1up-usa.com/product/48in-hitch-mounted-cargo-carrier/ Inside your truck cab is the very best place, is there a reason you can’t strap it down there? It would be secure, cool, dry and clean. Plug it into your round power socket. Here are pics of a birch dog platform I built for my 2006 Ram 3500. Two 40 pound doodles up top, lockable gear storage under the right side, cooler area on the left. A soft “pantry” cooler on top of that with soft stuff. In direct sun I would put a sun shield over that window . John Davies Spokane WA

I recently had my original gas regulator die on Hull 505. I wasn't paying close attention when I ordered the replacement and ended up ordering one with a lower BTU Rating. The original Hull 505 part - GR-9984XF with 345,000 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I should have ordered. The replacement part - GR-9994XF has 262,500 BTU from the Main Service Cylinder is what I have now sitting in a box. Since I learned of my error, I've ordered the original part and left the other new in the original box. I can't return it as the time's expired for exchange. Net Result: I have a NEW in Box GR-9994XF sitting in my garage. I'm wondering if the GR-9994XF would work as a spare for those of you with newer trailers that no longer have the Gas Fridge? If you're interested in the unit...send me a private message and we can work out details. Craig Short

Requested pictures with gear. I may take John's idea about a cargo net for travel day.

The 2023 Rocky Mountain Fiberglass Rendezvous will be held at Camp Hale (Leadville) July 18-21, 2023. This is a very enjoyable event and several Olivers have been in attendance at recent rallies. https://sites.google.com/site/rockymountaineggrendezvous/ There is no place better to be in the summer than the Colorado Rockies.

Original thermostat works fine, though it flashes E5 which is an open circuit code because there is no more AC unity to connect to. Just toggle to thermostat to heat when you turn it on and the heater works as normal. 6 month now using the Houghton and we love it! Its quiet, the Heat pump works great, as long as outside temps are above 40" F. Runs 5-6 hrs so far on the lithium 640 amp Hr batterys. Hull 1144 LEll, FORD F150 2014

We have a Solostove Bonfire and love it. We have had it for years and use it at home as well as when we travel. The wood burns efficiently and once it gets going, the smoke goes straight up. I love camp fires but hate the smoke in my face!

You'll find ScubaRX's disk brake project down on page 2 of this thread, with a April 18, 2017 entry date. Good Luck!

Have you talked to Oliver Service?

Thanks John! They don't offer an inline valve, but I'm sure I can cobble something together. I don't want to end up spending as much as simply replacing my Big Red Campfire, though. I appreciate the input! https://torjik.com For real fires, we use the Pop-Up Firepit. It burns super clean, with very little ash due to great air flow. Plus, you can set it up where *you* want, instead of where the campground wants it. It Folds up into a roll about 4" diameter and 20ish" ling. https://firesideoutdoor.com/?_atid=fxO62CmNHSBrD5RpwMpejcX2IckA0C

Agreed, I wasn't concerned about the value of my Oliver but rather how this translates into people camping over the next few years as Mountainman implied. My wife and I just returned from a week trip to SW Utah. We noticed one very popular campground that had a few openings still at sunset even with no RSVP tags on the post. Perusing the BLM dispersed areas also return the same results. Now it is important to note the weather down there has been off the charts wet and unseasonably cold. We were bundled up for ever hike we did, 6 years ago same time give or take a week it was all t-shirts and shorts. Cutting to the chase in other forum threads my prediction was many of the people who bought into this during the pandemic will not stick with it. It wouldn't surprise to see a glut on the market wit used RV's for sale soon.

Based on my observations from 2.5 months of travel this Winter across NM, AZ and CA, this is already happening. Greater vacancies in campgrounds, BLM land and fewer rigs on the road than the two prior Seasons. It will be interesting to hear the experiences from those who camp and travel during the Summer months and in other States as to whether this trend is greater than just NM, AZ and CA over this past Winter.

Before we picked up our Oliver, I thought we would use a lot more propane, especially during cold weather camping. In reality we use far less propane even during cold weather camping then I thought. We typically leave it on eco mode and then on comfort when we take showers. No problem turning it off when it's not being used but I think it's a good habit to at least put it in eco mode when you don't need hot water. If you forget at night, you will be reminded when it powers up to heat the water. I usually just get up and turn it to eco mode or off in above freezing weather. Sometimes I forget to turn the propane on before turning on the Truma. If you do this and turn the thermostat to eco or comfort mode the amber light on the thermostat will blink. Also the Truma on/off switch green led will blink. Just turn the thermostat off and turn the Truma switch off. Turn the propane on. To be sure the propane is flowing, check it by lighting the stove. If the stove lights then turn the Truma on/off switch to on, then go back inside and turn the thermostat to eco or comfort mode and the amber light should be constant. You will also see the same thing happen if there is not enough fresh water circulating through the pump. I found that out the first time I used the antifreeze kit. I drained the fresh water tank thinking the antifreeze kit would just keep the water in Truma warm. But I soon learned that the pump runs continuously when in antifreeze mode circulating water through the Truma. Fortunately, the Truma has some built in failsafe's allowing the user to make some mistakes without damaging the unit.

I installed a 32 LG Smart TV and I wrapped the cords in a WHITE cover - like Oliver should have done 😉 Charlie.

We leave it OFF most of the time while camping and only turn it on (COMFORT mode) a bit before we want to take our showers. Keeps the propane usage to a minimum. I also don't like leaving propane on if we are away from the camper for sightseeing/day trips, so when we leave the camper, the Truma is off and I close the propane tank valve. We typically camp at full hookup campgrounds so the fridge is running on AC. If you leave the Truma in COMFORT mode it uses more propane and it gets annoying at night hearing the Truma cycle on and off frequently to keep hot water at the ready. I should add that we rarely camp in cold weather. We are 3 season campers, spring, summer and fall.

Steve, We leave it Off until we need it and then turn it to Comfort. It heats the water in 15 to 20 seconds so, we don’t see any reason to leave it on. As soon as the need is done, we turn it to Off. If the temperature will be below freezing, we put it on Eco and leave it there until the temperature gets above about 36 degrees. Eco keeps the water temperature At 42 degrees or above. Even at 25 degrees overnight, it only comes on once or twice. I hope this helps you. Andrew

I had a somewhat similar problem with the bypass valve. Turned out to be degradation of the seal inside the valve. Seems that some of the winterizing or disinfecting solutions can attack the seal material in the valve It’s an easy replacement Link to the old thread discussion below.

Congratulations, your pickup date will be here in no time. I'm also towing my LEII with a 2022 F250 6.7L Tremor. I had Oliver upgrade my bulldog coupler to 2-5/16" went with the B&W Tow & Stow 3" shank and 7" drop. You could get away with less drop for an Oliver but I've never had a problem with that being too much drop. Here is a picture a grabbed this morning with both truck and trailer loaded to give you an idea how this combination sits.

LE2 Ollies tow just fine with a TW lighter than 10%. The caveat being that your tires and suspension must be in good shape. Worn out bushings, worn tires and blown shocks are very bad news for stability. The last time I measured, my TW was 480 lbs with an “estimated” normal camping weight of 6000. I do not recall any Ollie owner ever mentioning instability, nor an accident caused by sway... John Davies Spokane WA

I don’t think so. We have had a lot of time where the temps were below freezing, both stationary and while moving) with no issues. I don’t winterize. We’ve had two occasions where the temps here in south Texas got into single digits and stayed below freezing for days. I kept the heat on, opened hatches and had no problems. If I was looking for a cold weather trailer for camping in constant below freezing weather I would be looking at a Nash/Arctic Fox or even better an Outdoor RV. They have a lot more insulation in the walls and ceiling, enclosed tanks with dedicated heat ducting plus tank heaters. The Oliver 4 season capabilities are for how most of us camp - above freezing with occasional, but not sustained, below freezing camping. Mike

Are they free standing other that the screws into the floor? You might consider adding a bead of adhesive along each of the curves to give it more strength, Please post some pics of the shelves with stuff on them. If you added stretchy cargo netting, you could fill them up and not risk having stuff tumble out, for example paper towels or boots. Thanks for posting. John Davies Spokane WA

We picked up the tabletop SoloStove Mesa, it'll burn pellets as well as wood. The pellets are pretty easy to bring along. mesa

Thank you Jeff for opening the door on this aspect of our "Clean Energy" asperations. The above comments are interesting and informative. I feel certain that the market will dictate where the Gas/Diesel fuel topic goes. I am more worried about the higher level aspect of where will all our energy to travel comes from. The below are my personal feelings and concerns with our energy infrastructure. Your hope is a good one, and I share it. But sadly I don't think there is any chance of that for many more years. As a country, and a world, we pretty much missed that boat 20 years ago. Why? Coal Power Plants: The EPA emission requirements for coal fired power plants have resulted in significant reduction of these "Cheap" to fuel environmentally dirty power plants. Down the road, it is not likely that they can or will be replaced as the older coal power plants are decommissioned due to age and high cost to meet Clean Air Act requirements. Significant coal investment on a national level died years ago. Nuclear: This for now, and likely 20 or more years, is the only power source that could meet the needs of the zooming EV and other needs. But they take way too long to build, and in some states it will ever happen. Hydro Power Plants: How many new lakes suitable for hydro power production have been built in the last 30 years? Basically none. How has hydro electrical production faired as a result of global weather change? Well down. With the EPA required environmental assessments becoming next to impossible to get approved, I don't anticipate this type of power production to be one to hang our hats on either. Wind/Solar: Yes, we are making huge investments in these technologies. Sadly the vast majority of this equipment is imported. Regardless, for sure in some locations, they will shoulder most of the DAY TIME power needed for the millions of EV's coming towards the market. But Wind/Solar can not be relied upon every day and night without major power storage. To date we just don't have the infrastructure or a technology to do so at a grid level. So back to burning more natural gas to charge all those EV's at night. So basically for the foreseeable future, I believe that Natural Gas will be used to fuel the vast majority of the power for the planned millions of EV's. But again our society has pretty much killed off the initiatives for the energy industry to build the pipelines necessary meet the pending demands of the EV. Worse, the energy industry as a whole does not trust that such billion dollar investments to be profitable to their share holders. Same problem with funding new refineries, pipelines, and drilling new fields as most of our existing fields are beyond their prime. The result is that there is a finite amount of natural gas that can be delivered and used for power production. Existing limitations will cause shortages and you can expect that the cost of power will rise significantly as time passes. Also that weather related problems will result in punishing costs to be incurred as we have not embraced buried utilities as many countries have. I can only hope that reliable battery technologies come on line, and we in the USA get our heads around the need for a comprehensive energy policy that addresses bridge technologies to get us through the next 20 years as we embrace the EV wave heading our direction. In the mean time: The utility companies are closely watching the Hawaii situation where our home and commercial use of solar panels have drastically changed the grid peak times for power production. Peak power production on Oahu used to be afternoons, and is now during late afternoon and evenings after sunset. Now they are moving us to time of NIGHT high power pricing. So if you are needing to replace appliances, recommend you consider ones that you can select when you want it to run. Investigate home solar panels, solar hot water generation, and solar produced power storage investments while there are federal, state and local incentives to do so. Have enough power storage so that you can use your investment when the grids are "temporarily" down. I think that the good news is that the Oil/Gas industry is not going away in our collective life spans. As such, our gas/diesel burning "old school" TV and Ollie will likely love the deserted roads at night when the solar powered EV power stations sit idle with thousands of EV's waiting their turn at the few grid powered Charging Stations. We'll beep beep our horn as they wait for sunup to get some juice into their batteries once again. I keep wondering why we rarely hear anything about addressing the capital costs for the needed electrical production, high voltage power lines and substations needed to feed the 50,000 power stations being built today. GJ

Very nice Job. It’s a tough space to organize for sure. We tend to carry different items with the season’s. We will get it figured out one day.

I used a heat gun and plastic razor blades to remove mine and it came off fairly easy. Used Goof Off to remove the adhesive residue.

12 Volt! That's great. Where did you find it. I was already contemplating eventually replacing the original TV with a 12V, so bigger is even better. Thanks! Nevermind, I found it: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVOX-Powered-Television-Integrated-Speaker/dp/B0BN2WV3TZ?th=1

I checked DuPont website. From the data sheet on their products…… “Cured foam is combustible and will burn if exposed to temperatures above 240°F (116°C). Do not apply GREAT STUFFTM foam around heaters, high heat lamps or recessed lighting fixtures, radiators, furnaces or fireplaces where it could contact heat conducting surfaces. Do not use GREAT STUFFTM foam inside electrical boxes or panels (applications around the outside of the boxes are permitted).” See attached. 0901b8038095d125.pdf

Thanks. The net is from Raingler. I love them, there are two in my LC200. I am a firm believer in restraining flying cargo or animals in the event of a collision. I had a net and a welded steel Milford Cargo Barrier from Oz in my old LX450. Here is the Raingler Super Duty net: https://raingler.com/collections/ford-f250-f350-vwr-heavy-duty-cargo-nets Your do most definitely need door and front seat drool guards from Amazon. Older or injured dogs need assistance getting in, steps or a ramp work OK. John Davies Spokane WA

I vacuum them, then use a damp microfiber towel and wipe them down.

Agree with JD on not carrying that on back of trailer, for all the reasons he lays out. If you don’t want it inside the truck cab, annother option is to sell the Truma C73 and buy a smaller one that will fit. I have a 2020 F250 with a Diamondback cover. I carry a Dometic CFX 50 cooler in the bed, it fits easily under the cover. I have a Dometic PB40 lithium battery plugged into a DC power outlet that is wired to the truck battery. It gives me about a day of fridge power when truck is parked, but does not draw on the TV battery when engine isn’t running. I also have an DC input so I can connect it to a portable solar panel, or to the Zamp side port of the trailer if desired. I usually don’t need it, as we find ourself running errands or exploring, so the fridge battery re-charges as we drive The way we use our portable fridge is as a-freezer only, as our Norcold freezer is small. Usually that small freezer has ice trays and maybe some ice cream in it. We find the other Norcold food compartment large enough for the 2 of us, re-supplying on the road as needed.

You have a Ford, there are solutions out there that don’t require carpentry skills. BTW Baltic Birch 15 mm plywood is now $6 per sq ft! https://www.truckoffice.com/products/cargocrew/ John Davies Spokane WA

Using a Swiffer may help remove some of the dust. These blinds are pretty fragile so I would not want to hose them down. You may want to check with the MFG. GJ

I agree! With Amazon’s supply chain and delivery issues during and post Covid 19, I always go to EBay for a price check. As an example, I purchased a Victron Cerbo GX last December for $80 less than Amazon, with free shipping. Amazon is very easy to do business with, as long as you don’t need to talk with them. But I often save money at EBay. Mossey

I'm sure it's total photoshop. Just wanted to lighten up the conversation. Struck me as funny. That front wheel drive car isn't going anywhere with that camper.

I agree. That said, there are Darwin Award Nominees all around us. If they choose to be unenlightened, and become the Annual Award Winner, great ,,,so long as they are not around any of us when they do so. On the other hand, IF we can influence them in a kind way by presenting the reality with FACTS, and it causes them to rethink their safety margins... then maybe we have saved them from being that year's award winner. And that is the whole point of all of the above, not to chastise or demean. At least, that's how I read the comments. But then, I'm just another ROF (Retired Ole Fart) GJ

I like the heated tank concept. I *assume* this is electric, but have the same questions as Rivernerd above. Interesting thought - for trailers with propane heat, I wonder if its possible to make double-hulled tanks, with the fluids in the inner tank, and the outer tank being essentially an air plenum that you run the hot air through on its way to the other end of the trailer. If the air around the (inner) tank is above freezing, the liquid in the tank will not freeze. If you didn't want to run the furnace output directly around the tanks, you could instead use a separate blower (either manually switched or on a thermostat) to cycle cabin air around the tanks and back into the cabin space again... assuming that the furnace would run as needed to maintain the desired cabin temperature. Very little additional electricity would be required (more 12v watts for slightly longer furnace blower run-times). This design would use slightly more propane to heat the trailer's interior to the same point, but you'd probably have warmer floors as a bonus 🙂