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Make a checklist, like a pilot, and stick to it. Failure to follow my own list has led to a could of expensive mistakes over the years.

@Pat Radack We all started somewhere with regard to learning and towing our Ollies around the country. You can ask away and we will glad help you out. Not sure if you use social media such as F/B? Oliver has a great Oliver Owners FB page as which also a wealth of information. We still use our checklist when we set up and break camp and my bride and copilot truly is my second set of eyes!👀 Pro tip - Never be in a hurry when settling up or breaking camp and packing up. Take your time and it will become second nature. We are o the road right now headed to the Great North Woods! Enjoy that Oliver and go camping! 🍁 Patriot🇺🇸

For what it's worth, we "bit" last year on an "upgrade" offer from a Levelmate Pro to a Levelmate Max, because of battery issues with the Levelmate Pro. But the Levelmate Max has unreliable connectivity and the software is "buggy". It became so frustrating we reverted to 2-person campsite setup, with a torpedo level. Having now used both the Levelmate Pro and the Levelmate Max, we wish we had instead purchased the Beech Lane (as suggested by Patriot, above).

Agree. Levelmate works well and another benefit over using bubble levels is that you can monitor the trailer degree of level while moving into the campsite. I camp in boondocks sites where the gravel/dirt is uneven and I can monitor from the drivers seat while moving back or forward to find best level spot.

The Collar, ABUS lock with 2” de-shanked hitch ball locked in the jaw. If leaving for extended period, will remove safety chains. If they want it, they will find a way to take it, merely deterring honest and lazy thieves is the goal. Buddy had SOB trailer stolen from his drive by thief merely wrapping safety chains around hitch and dragging it off, sparks flying down the road.

I use this and it works flawlessly. Super simple set up and dials XPLOR in dead level. Strong reviews and the price is reasonable. I would buy again without hesitation. I mounted it on the inside of the closet wall out of sight. Tested, Manufactured and made in the USA! 🇺🇸 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C28VJLG5/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=d3c72cff5eef1b3a98013caddad9f9dc&hsa_cr_id=0&qid=1757682231&sr=1-1

Many use the LevelMate products for front/back and side/side adjustments with use of a phone app. Leveling blocks/ramps can also be used to lift one side and rear stabilizer jacks then to fine tune. Front jack used for front/back leveling often with a block to reduce jack extension. Perfect leveling made simple!

Hi- try the USFS & BLM CG app

No easy path! 🤣 The outer and interior shells of the Oliver are tight and in-between, lot'sa luck in doing so. Many have asked, but nobody on this forum has demonstrated a viable build. Perhaps it's an idea that does not have a feasible solution. IMO, drop the idea. In the same vain, I wonder why some want an inferior 12V television, when with LiFePO4 batteries an inverter can simply run an 120VAC TV. 12V TVs have limited selection and truly lame resolution. Instead I prefer to run a 4K high-def Samsung monitor, 3/4" thin white and beautiful on 120VAC. IMHO...

I run 45 PSI highway and when boondocking on local washboard roads I reduce to 38 PSI. I was just testing our new suspension over speed bumps at 45 PSI and I could see the tires nicely compress while taking in the speed bump. 40 PSI is enough however since we are certainly running less than 7K LBS GTW. Some have written they will lower the tire PSI because of the stiffer springs. PSI should be determined on trailer weight. This upgrade has likely added about 150 LBS in heavier parts. Running D52 axles and Alcan springs going a little over the 7K GTWR should not be a big deal. With axles, springs, wheels and tires that can handle over 10K LBS, only the Oliver frame is the limiting factor. We know a member with multiple upgrades, upgraded suspension with disc brakes, my guess is he is well over 8K LBS actual GTW. 45 PSI is a good MAX number for most. I do not believe in adding PSI as a buffer allowing notification time using a TPMS. The PSI should be adjusted for actual GTW only. On the Michelin Agilis 40 PSI gives you 7,180 LBS and 45 allows up to 7,800. 50 PSI allows for 8,360 LBS GTW. Do you need more pressure?

No recent mention of the many tracking devices used and recommended by Oliver owners in this forum. Not to highlight the referenced tracker in the above 2016 post, but rather bring attention to the fact that GPS trackers are readily available and a useful tool in the event of theft.

I serviced the front jack after we purchased our Oliver near 2 years ago. It sounded dry and the front lift jack is certainly used at least 2x more often than the rears. The rears are also protected from the elements. To date the motor/gear sounds on the rear jacks where good. I've been replacing the Dexter axles and leaf springs on our Oliver and using the rear jacks for the heavy lift, getting the wheels off the ground, a few times in the last couple weeks. Yesterday the curbside sounded like the motor was drawing too much current (slowing down) and then started clicking not lifting. The clicking sound was like the sound you get when releasing the jack, lifting the shaft too high hitting the stop, but it made this sound while pushing down to lift the trailer, only halfway up, nowhere near the 18" lift-height of the VIP3000. From rebuilding the front jack, I noted wear on the worm-drive gear that's attached to the motor (see picture of motor gear from my front jack service). If the rears show the same upon disassembly, I will need to replace the motor(s). I found this part with a quick search. I can buy 3 of these for the cost of one complete VIP3000 and we know the rear jacks have a custom weld that must be reused or replaced. https://highskyrvparts.com/barker-mfg-trailer-landing-gear-motor-16263 Have any of you have to service your rear jacks, including replacing any worn parts? I understand how to remove them and service them. I guess I'll only know after I remove the jack that is presently not functioning. See page 2 of this link to see the service I worked on the front jack. I will keep y'all posted on the repair... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4094-how-to-vip-3000-electric-stabilizer-jack-service/page/2/#comment-94339