Leaderboard

This happened to me a couple of years ago. There was no way to retap the hole without removing the axle as it was a top zirk and I was not prepared to do so. Eventually, i got a new zirk to somewhat thread into the existing hole. It was a real struggle, do to the limited access, and i recall i did remove both wheels. I cant recall but i might have used a metric threaded zirk of a slightly different size. I doubt its threaded in properly but it has held in place now for a couple of years. I am very careful when i apply grease through that one and i do not use a power grease gun on the oliver. Not a pretty or satisfying fix but so far it has worked.

Thanks for the update. I'm still waiting on an order that I placed back in July and was planning on given them another call. Your update saved me making a call.

Very likely as you have the 50 amp version. Those of us with the 30 amp.... another story. These units have a relatively low efficiency and as such could warm the entire trailer in some conditions. Mine shuts down after an hour or so if I don't open up the lid to let the heat out. GJ

Cotter Pins and Washers would be a lot less expensive. GJ

Unplug from shore power and fire off your Inverger to feed a 1500 watt electrical resistance heater. Recommend pluging it in to the patio plug. That give the system some exercise and not work your A/C. 🙂 GJ

Thanks Geoff @Snackchaser, Lots here to get started and of course I'll keep our community posted. BTW, we were running A/C on inverter, but not while towing this time. Never thought heat would be a leading issue. The basement near the MP2 has seen 104F at highest, more often 80-90F. The Orion is under the rear dinette seat, a lot of air up there and nothing else producing heat while towing. Fall temps in the 70s. Next time out is not coming soon, but I'll fix a Ruuvi sensor directly to the Orion. Testing at idle on our property likely would not produce much heat, but I'll hit the Orion with my IR temp gun after an hour idling to see. My alternator is a built Nations brand HD alternator. I wouldn't think 2 years later it's the issue but yes, it should be tested. We just got a week of unprecedented HEAVY rains. Much of AZ had flooded. We are safe on high ground, but I have weeks of some repair and yardwork to do first. I should take some time later in the year to work on this. Thanks again.

I must agree, I like my vintage gear onboard #110. I'm sure someday I may regret not being able to run my A/C off batteries, but I will still need a generator to re-charge those beastly batteries, or a truck that can do it IF I drive the next day. When these 2024 AGMs are used up, I'll upgrade the rig to all new Victron & good lithiums. We'll see how my retirement travels work-out for me.

"colors" ?

At the very worst, you temp use two bolts in each end. Available almost anywhere fine bolts are sold.

Yeah John, thank you. She’s pretty again and our 11-year-old Oliver is also more capable than ever! 😎 Not a chance we would trade our newly upgraded and restored Oliver for a brand NEW 2027 Apex or Elite. We are better optioned than either new model. It would be less dependable without going through everything again, and way too much trouble to do so.

The NEC, and maybe others, require a service disconnect for appliance maintenance. A plug is the cheapest way to provide a disconnect for service. GJ

I spent a LOT of time at the showroom looking at the APEX. There are a few things I liked, but honestly the #1 item keeping me away was the 48-volt Eco flow system. I did some research once I got home and it appears to be quality product. My issue was that the AC runs through the system full time - if you need AC cooling the EF system must be working: the AC running through the inverters. We all use our Olivers differently and times and needs can change - from boondocking to a ritzy RV park in AZ. Long term I could see an extended time in a hot area of the country; I would want my AC running off 120-volt shore power. That and the fact it is a system that is not component driven - but rather a closed system. But that's not my specialty - so I leave it here. I really like the slam latches over the standard ones in an EII. The axles and Alcan leaf springs are another improvement - one that honestly should be standard on all the EII's - that topic for another day. And yeah, the black high Lites appealed to me - call me strange.... The tires - make no sense to me - but what do I know. The solar awnings were also a no go for me. However - I can see as an off the beaten track boondocking rig it makes sense. I preferred the EII with appropriate solar system.

Grok gave these Here’s a list of mobile RV techs and repair services in Florida. These provide on-site repairs, maintenance, and service at your location (home, campground, etc.). Coverage varies by region, so contact them to confirm availability in your area. dandlmobilervrepair.com Central Florida (Orlando, Lakeland, Tampa, etc.) Florida Mobile RV — Central Florida focus, 30+ years experience, insurance/warranty work, full repairs. floridamobilerv.com Interstate Mobile RV Service, LLC — Orlando area (including Clermont, Kissimmee), certified techs, maintenance, holding tank cleaning, AC, plumbing, electrical. Phone: 407-861-6380. imrvs.net Matt's Mobile RV Repair — Based in Lakeland, serves Central Florida (Tampa to Orlando to Zephyrhills). Veteran-owned, NRVTA certified. mattsmobilervrepairfl.com D & L Mobile RV Repair — West Central Florida (Bradenton, Brandon, Clearwater, Lakeland, Largo, etc.). Phone: 813-340-4391. dandlmobilervrepair.com Speedy Mobile RV Repair — Tampa Bay metro and surrounding areas, full range of repairs and maintenance. speedymobilervrepair.com Happy Camper RV Repair / Mobile RV Tech — Zephyrhills area, licensed for LP gas, etc. Phone: 813-485-4103. happycampermobilervtech.com North/Central North Florida (Gainesville, Ocala, etc.) Honest RV Mobile Repair — Gainesville, Alachua, High Springs, Newberry, Ocala, and north central Florida. RVTI/RVTA certified, licensed, insured. honestrvrepair.com MobilePro RV Service & Repair — Gainesville area, 20+ years experience, works with RV parks. mobileprorvrepair.com Southwest Florida First Responder Mobile RV Repair — Southwest Florida, veteran-owned. firstrespondermobilervrepair.com Action Mobile RV Repair — Southwest Florida, on-site maintenance. actionmobilervrepair.com Other Areas Shaffer's Certified Mobile RV Service, LLC — Sarasota, Bradenton, Venice, St. Petersburg, Clearwater, and surrounding counties. RVTI certified, LP Master Qualifier. scmobilerv.com JCRVs Mobile RV — Minneola, Winter Garden, Clermont area. Repairs, renovations. Phone: 352-207-6056. thejcrv.com Open Road RV Repair (Camper-Repair.com) — Central and Southern Florida (Jacksonville, Orlando, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, West Palm Beach, etc.). Certified, insured. Phone: 1-800-708-1976. camper-repair.com A1 RV Repair — Statewide mobile techs across every county in Florida. Phone: 866-623-1340. a1rvrepair.com Additional Resources RVHelp.com — Directory with vetted mobile techs in specific Florida cities (e.g., Old Town, Florida City). rvhelp.com Check Yelp for local reviews in cities like Orlando or Spring Hill. yelp.com Tips: Verify licensing (especially for LP gas work in Florida), insurance, and certifications (e.g., RVIA, NRVTA, RVTI). Ask about service radius, common repairs (AC, roofs, slides, plumbing are frequent in FL), and availability. Many are independent or small teams—reviews and references help. If you specify your city or region in Florida (e.g., Miami, Panhandle, Tampa), I can refine this list further!

Sounds like a new inspection item to put on my list. Thanks all for sharing.

Let me guess..... The person you spoke to has the initials MS...