Leaderboard

If you follow that cut wire back you'll eventually find an in line automotive style 1 AMP fuse in a holder nearer to the area where the 12v lines go to buss bars etc (Under the street side bed). It's that fuse you could have pulled instead of cutting the wire. You may have inadvertently popped that fuse. Hope you find the fuse and that it helps. (This is a 2019 trailer so your wiring may be different.)

A couple of weeks ago we had to replace the CO/Propane alarm in our 2022 like @John Dorrer and @Dave and Kimberly, also 2022 models. Is there something about the original alarms that's causing them to fail at only ~4 years time? In our case the unit was going off even though the propane was off, there was nothing nearby generating CO and the batteries were charged. Like @John Dorrer, when I clipped the wires to replace the unit, I shorted the circuit when the + wire dropped and made contact with the foil insulation. I would have pulled the fuse first but didn't know where it was. I went through earlier threads on this topic to find its location. It's easy to replace, but hard to find if you don't know the area to search. If I hadn't found it, I would have run a new + wire to an empty slot in the 12v fuse panel. That would probably violate some RVIA code, but it would make it easier to shut it down the next time it starts to fail (would not do for a potentially valid alarm). The replacement unit came with Wago type connectors, so disconnecting will be easy if the need arises.

This time last year I replaced ours with a new one sent to me by Oliver. I used Wago connectors. Inadvertently I must have touched wires. Got done and the CO Detector didn't lite up. We had our service done the next week, and Oliver found that I blew the fuse. They replaced the fuse and all was good. When the bare wires touch, there were sparks, and that apparently blew the fuse.

We replaced our 2022 detector last fall for the same problem: hypersensitive, going off for no apparent reason. I also used Wago connectors to make the next replacement easier. I think the RV environment is especially hard on these detectors, especially in small campers like ours, where they're often exposed to low levels of various chemicals: propane from the stove, exhaust from the fridge coming in the screen door, even hair spray. Not to mention temperature extremes while in storage. On another note, always disconnect power before cutting or splicing wires. It's easier to find and pull the fuse than to repair whatever damage you might cause with a short.

Let's see - My Ollie is ten years old and I'm on my third alarm. Perhaps these things are junk? There are a couple of threads here on the Forum that detail the installation of a simple "on/off" switch for this alarm. If anyone installs one of these switches they should - in some way - make sure that it is known when the alarm is in the "off" position. Bill p.s. it seems that these alarms always go off in the middle of the night. This makes finding and pulling that fuse a bit difficult. Therefore, a switch makes this process much easier. "side bar": Dave - in my mind I don't look any different than I did about 50 years ago.🫠

Thank you! I did find exactly that 1 amp (black blade type) fuse. Mine isn’t marked or anything obvious like yours but I will find a replacement 1 amp fuse for it. If that’s it, I’ve found it, but didn’t know it! Patriot pointed me in that General direction too… I’ll report back anything I discover.

In April of 2025 I asked for a quote from Calmark for a cover. I was quoted $1450 including shipping and also informed that they changed their fabric resulting in cutting the warranty from 6 years to only 3 years. I spoke with Natalie on the phone and she was very nice. They were not able to source the same fabric anymore (as of then) and could no longer warranty it for 6 years as on previous covers. I told her I live at 6300ft elevation in Colorado and the UV sun exposure is absolutly brutal. I store the trailer at an RV lot where it is uncovered and it takes the sometimes intense wind and wind gusts we have here. I'd like to have a Calmark cover but just couldn't stomach almost $1500 with only guarantee for 3 years. I decided to contiue with the much cheaper cover I have been using. It's good quality compared to most of what's out there, which is a lot of cheap junk. I do think it's caused light rub marks on the fiberglass in a few spots from the whipping wind even though it does secure down pretty tight. They seem to buff out with some McGuires one-step compound and wax, but it's obviously not ideal. I decided this was the lesser of two evils compared to the damaging sun exposure. The 15-18 foot size fits the LEII pretty well even though it's cut for a trailer 8ft wide. It reaches to cover all the way up over the front jack. Hopefully Calmark will be able to revise it's offering. But in the meantime, this is an alternative with caveats... IMG_3362.HEIC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHX27HS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 IMG_3362.HEICIMG_3362.HEIC

It is seldom that sparks are a good thing.

Dave - Did you "trace" that positive back to its bus bar? While you are in the :tracing" mode, I'd also trace the negative back to its bus bar - the connections at each bus bar just might be loose. Bill

And very importantly as Hoosier brought to light, I was remiss in not adding to my list an important reason for our use not having an automatic switch over valve: We camp when it is warmer and we fully winterize when our trailer is in storage. As such, we have no need for it to burn propane to keep warm when it is lonely. That said, a significant number of owners do need/want/use these devices. And that's cool. GJ