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SDG includes an new thermostat that they would install. Ron in the thread above has shown how the original Dometic thermostat can be rewired for furnace only. The Atmos is controlled by the surface panel or remote.

Hello All, My wife and I purchased Hull #1553 at the end of February. The trailer is a 2024, Legacy Elite II. We have already been on one trip with it. Love this trailer! Cant wait for the next trip. I have been browsing all the forums and am excited to be part of this community.

Worked this step yesterday. The new cable pulled into place as written above. See picture, taken under the streetside bed. On the left is the new cable. On the right is the cut-off sheath of the old cable. Then I pushed these two sides together, taped them together with electrical tape, and it pulled through nicely. Don't forget to put the nut on the new cable before pulling this! Now the entire waste valve system is restored. The rebuilt gray is a feather-lite pull and push. The black still takes a little tug, due to the 144" cable and the 180 degree turn at the end, but it is much better than before. We should be good for many more years to come.

Welcome! We'll be on the lookout for you.

Thanks a bunch !

Welcome from Hull # 1045, Jolli Olli

Yes, Yes and about 2 in taller.

There was a recent thread started by @Galileo where Val had a black tank waste valve beyond repair. OTT Service suggested replacing the valve with the Valterra motorized valve which would eliminate the need for the 12 ft pull cable replaced by an electric switch. This got me thinking as we have a 10-year-old hull and ALL three (3) waste valves, including the 1 1/2" gray valve for the bathroom, are very difficult to pull the valves open and to push back to close. It's always better to work preventive maintenance than to get caught on the road with a stuck waste valve! I wanted to install electric motorized valves in all 3 locations but we were made aware by OTT (through Val's service call) that replacing the gray valve would be difficult. From a picture I had taken of that area, I noted it was installed laying flat on the hull floor which would not allow for the considerably wider motorized valve. I couldn't see a design with one manual valve with t-pull handle in the rear next to an electric switch for the other. So my plan morphed into restoring the main waste valves replacing OEM parts as needed. I kept the idea of a motorized 1 1/2" valve for the bathroom because this valve must be opened/closed often, every travel day. What a chronic pain it is getting into the bathroom, reaching down ankle height and pulling the valve open before pulling a muscle! Yep, we're getting older... To start, I removed both valves under the front dinette seat. The 3" black and the 1 1/2" gray valves were originally installed angled towards and touching each other, with the gray valve jammed against the fiberglass wall. I sawed off the 1 1/2" ABS at the waste valve flange so that larger motorized valve could be installed. Purchase of a new flange and two couplings was all that was needed, as I was happy we had some ABS glue. With the plumbing out it was so easy to run wiring for our DC-DC charger from the hitch to rear dinette seat, an added bonus. At first, I wanted to install the power switch near the entrance door so that it could be reached while standing outside. Thinking through the extra work and that it could be easily damaged or switched accidently, I installed it right there under the dinette seat. Here the provided wiring harness reached the buses under the rear dinette seat w/o modification. I cut a tight-fit rectangle opening for the switch alone, tossed the large faceplate and by-passed the odd fuse/reset button, adding a 5A fuse at the +bus. When the valve is open a thin red LED shows which can be seen from outside the entrance door. It is soooo great to merely press a button to work this valve!

I replaced the double USB-A with these since we have both kinds of cords: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1DHNLDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

The installation price sounds great! From my 5 whole minutes of research, it looks like the 15k btu Dreiha sells for about the same amount as the 13.5 k btu Houghton… Sounds a little better than $4,000 to have Oliver install the Truma….

Interesting distinction with regard to the Truma A/C. I am used to seeing a MFG posting a maximum current and sometimes a circuit breaker recommendation. But not a amp rating that is qualified at just one set of interior/exterior run temperatures. I can understand from a liability basis why they would do so. But it really makes their info a lot less reliable for our real world operating conditions.

100% concur with @Mountainman198 Lance's assessment. We pushed through the 10K mile after getting home from the Q last month, logging 10,236 miles since replacing the OEM springs in March 2024 and 7,215 since installing the D52 "Nev-R-Lubes" last MAY. The most noticeable towing attribute after the undercarriage upgrades is the reduction of "porpoising" at slow speeds over relatively rough terrain. Side to side "rocking" seems noticeably less as well. Ride height is measured at approx 1/2" as Lance noted above. We're checking our shocks later this week prior to our next trip (Owner's rally) -- it should be interesting to see if the OEM shocks (replaced with new last MAY w/axles) have any life left in them. Thanks for the report, Lance! See you down the road! Best,

10,000 mile update on Alcan springs: A year had passed since my dreaded roadside leaf spring break and 10,000 miles are on the Ollie with Alcan springs underneath so I thought I would provide my update. Ride height - rear bumper rides approx 1/2” higher than stock Ride performance - first 500 miles seemed a bit stiffer than stock with a few more items from counter and beds on the floor but the springs settled-in after that and there is no observed difference inside the trailer now (no additional stuff found fallen to the floor). Trailer tracks the same as stock, however visible jouncing (up and down) and side to side (roll) are observed to be less pronounced than stock. I also noticed when doing annual bearing maintenance that the spring shackles no longer invert when both wheels on the same side are jacked off the ground. Overall impression - had I known that a heavier capacity, 5-leaf spring, made in the US with US steel and featuring a design with the second leaf which extended all the way under each spring eye was available sooner I would have swapped sooner, just as I had previously done with solid stainless lug nuts and US made Timken bearings. No regrets on the upgrade from stock springs.

This truly makes sense! Our door would bang in the wind against that stop before you even got a chance to hook the door. Never since adding friction hinges. You must add these. Our door sits 90 degrees open, even in the wind, and never pushing on the stop. https://a.co/d/d1kftGz

Ours has done this and we can recreate the issue, which is the door pressed into the black back stop puck. Even when using the door hook, constant wind pressure against that back stop has caused ours to crack on the inside, where the inset is hard and susceptible to cracking when under flex/pressure. Stand and push your door into the puck and you can see it flex. Thus when opening the door, if the wind grabs it causing good whack against the back stop, then the cracking begins. We bought our trailer used, and the door never closed smoothly or easily. There was a dent on the inside of the door, but we didn’t think that affected function. Turns out, that dent was probably something hard enough to bend the door frame and then, even when latched, there was play in the door allowing flex on the back stop, so here we are. We are ordering a new door from Oliver and having it installed. 2019 E2 hull #550

I’m on the outside looking in here, so feel free to tell me to take a hike. Pretty sure the “high” amperage figure(s) being tossed around are starting amps, not running amps. We’ve had out trailer plugged in to a friend’s very old, very iffy 15/20 amp circuit with our stock 30 amp cable, a 30-20 amp adapter, and a 100’ 12 ga extension (yeah, not one of my prouder moments) and tried out the A/C (Dometic) JUST to see if it would work. We have the soft-start option. I watched the LED display on the power monitor, and it spiked at about 12-13 amps for a moment when the compressor kicked in, then settled down to about 6 amps or so and worked fine. The voltage stayed above about 114, so no serious concerns about frying things. That’s not a situation I’d feel comfortable running under for any length of time. More of just an experiment. The only time we’ve had the power monitor call things off and shut the whole show down was at a campground that swore they had good power, but my Multimeter said it was barely over 100v open circuit. BTW - I had one of those old Skil 77 work drive circular saws. It did NOT like running on that 100’ extension - even if it was 12ga. I now have a 10ga one - but sold the saw.