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Insta Shower 9 Pro, which also fits the basic 13x13 hole with 15 x 15 door. However the fit was tight and just a titch out of square from the original install of the Suburban. Used a drill with rotating drum sanding attachment and vacuum in the other hand to sand away critical parts for an easier fit. After a few efforts it slide in nicely. I chose this unit over some of the less expensive models due to its mixing chamber/valve the less expensive models did not have. These WH are said to be 74% efficient ± and would bet the Suburban is nowhere near this level of efficiency. It's also very quiet and very easy to winterize. Your Suburban has a 15x15 door but the actual hole or rather square is 13x13. The Fogatti comes with a surround trim piece but will not work on the Oliver due to the recessed indentation for the WH and Furnace. Not a big deal as the supplied gasket and caulk easily seal the unit well. Finally finished the install today and thanks to @Snackchaser for his suggestion of capping off the two other blue and yellow/green wires and running an additional black wire from a bolt on the chassis to the black wire on the WH. Everything seems to be working perfectly. Had gorgeous day in Big Sky country after frigid night before. I really like the remote control for adjusting water temp to your taste. The fit and finish on this product is on an order of magnitude better than the older Suburban. The engineering and tech seems to also be light years ahead of the Suburban which by comparison seems like a relic out of the end of WWII. Is it perfect? Probably not, but thus far I like it much better than the older Suburban WH. LMK if there are more concerns or questions.

Please do!!! My suspension was silent when I got it. Now it’s creaky. I just did the 3k lube right on schedule but still creaky. There’s a couple that won’t take lube, wondering what to do Ok so loosen nut, rotate bolt, grease and then tighten to 58

Just retorqued the suspension after towing 3600 miles over the last 6 months on the new D52 axles with Alcan 5-pack leaf springs. On the right side (I'll work the left side tomorrow), the U-bolts did not need tightening at 90 ft-lb (they're set, last time I'll touch these). The three main leaf (3) bolts, the EZ Flex center bolt and the two end bolts did not need tightening either (torqued to 70 ft-lb). The wet-bolt on one shackle would not take grease, so I loosened it to apply grease. All four (4) shackle-connected wet-bolts needed a bit of tightening (torqued to 58 ft-lb). All shackles and other parts looked in like-new condition. Not real concerned with rotating wet-bolts as you could see they were all fixed into a set position even though needing torque. Just loosen the nut and rotate the bolt if one is not taking grease. Torque wet-bolts after greasing. I'm going to start a maintenance thread for the Alcan/D52 Nev-R Lube setup.

Looks that way from what I can tell, and those 48V Houghton's on paper don't look very efficient either. I think the 120v inverter units that we each have would use less power even after the loss of running through an inverter.

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek. Yep, but come to think of it... How nice it would be to have 2300A of solar available! Plus, you'd have have redundancy if (when?) one of them failed. Now we need a gray water storage carpet to put under the solar awning. And camp chairs that also hold fresh water. We could boondock forever!

Oliver is adamant about maintaining their 7000 pound GVWR. The 4 leaf spring pack is now the weakest link and achieves their goal.

Exactly, regardless of code, wire nuts are for Residential use within junction boxes. Automobiles, trucks and trailers, anything DOT approved for highway use should use crimp connectors, or terminals with eyelet connectors screwed to a bus, relay or switch. Don't use anything else, including all the fancy cr@p you'll find, like WAGO or any other lever connectors. I toss them out when they come with an installation kit. You don't want a set screw holding stranded wire. You don't solder automotive connections either. Solder is for electronics only, it can crack with vibration. Only basic crimps will absorb vibration without harm.

The wife refers to it as the “man barn” for my “man toys”!