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I can’t remember if this has been brought up before but here goes: From first hand experience, the best practice is to connect one capped waste hose to the drain pipe in the bumper and leave it connected. Both waste valves are a good distance from the cap on the end of the drain pipe in the bumper. If black or grey water leaks past the waste valves you will know it when you pull the hose out of the bumper instead of when you uncap the drain pipe. You can then put one of these on the end of the hose by raising the capped end up, then add your extra hose downstream of the twist on valve. This will give you a way to release what has leaked past the waste valve without creating a mess. Even if you try to add the extra hose on after detecting fluid in the first hose, you risk creating a mess when you eventually have to lower the end of the hose to place it on the sewer connection on the ground. I now carry a twist on valve for this reason. Bill

We have one 10' Rhinoflex connected with a regular straight cap, no need for the extra valve for us because as soon as you raise the hose, if it has something in it, it stays down below bumper level. We used to run a 15' piece but found that the 10' section works for 90% of the dumps that we do in state parks. Reed

Welcome Neil & Marybeth!

Bill, After adjusting/lubing the 3" black tank valve & cable, it continued to bypass when in the closed position. Replaced blade valve and seals today following Valterra video instructions starting around 3:10. New Valterra 3" black tank valve body and seals: Valve located under dinette seat: 3" Black tank valve on RH side: Loosen 3" black tank hose to allow removal of the 3" blade valve: Removing cable mounting bracket: 3" Valve removed: Build up on seal surfaces contacting valve blade causing bypass: Silicone lubricant used on seals and blade rod: New valve/seals installed and working great: https://www.valterra.com/product/waste-valve-body-3-with-coupler-seals-hardware/?pcat_id=1445

Yes.