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I, sort of accidentally, left my Oliver out in freezing weather while we were away for a few days. It froze the cold valve on the bathroom sink, and it froze the toilet fresh water valve that the foot pedal operates. The bath sink faucet cracked the ceramic insert, and the toilet valve split open. It seems like the water inlet fitting would be the most vulnerable, or the outdoor shower assembly, but the breaks both happened inside the trailer. Afterward, I wished there were valves on the bathroom lines so that one could isolate that area while out on the road if needed. Once anything goes wrong, the whole system must be shut down. When I put in the new kitchen faucet, I did install shutoffs on the two lines. And an added benefit to this it allows you to backlash the faucet if needed. Mine gathered a bunch of debris from somewhere and I was able to blow it out with system pressure flowing backward.

So I have you to thank :)

Mine and I was told one other that came off the line alongside. It was an experiment to see how much trouble the extra plumbing would be.

With regard to the comfort plus - who got those installed? I wanted one badly, and was told no. Part of the "WD" edition Oliver would be a the comfort plus, with the cold and warm lines being wrapped in insulation so the warm recirculation would keep the cold from freezing. I believe that's what ARV does on their Sprinters. That, and saving the gray tank waiting for hot water.

Overland is right. If you had another heat source (like maybe the furnace) to keep everything else from freezing, you could use the truma insert to keep truma itself from freezing while on the go. Winterizing the Oliver is pretty painless - especially with the truma (just make sure it's cold and depressurized first), we did it several times on our cross country trip including a nice blizzard in SD.

Unfortunately, what you're suggesting won't work. The electric antifreeze kit is only designed to protect the unit itself from freezing. You use a separate mode to turn it on and it doesn't work in the other modes (comfort or eco). If you select either of those modes then the unit will try to fire up, and unless you have the propane on it will give you an error. And unless you have the comfort plus, the unit can only circulate water within itself, not the water lines. In fact, even if you did have the comfort plus (I think only two Elite IIs have it) then you'd still only be protecting the hot water lines and not the cold lines or the faucets.

I won’t comment on the Truma since I know very little about it. However, I caution you to not rely on just one electrical source of heat, no matter what it is. If the shore power fails for any reason, your trailer will freeze. Also the small amount of waste heat that radiates from recirculating hot water lines is not nearly enough to heat the full fresh tank, the cold water lines and the standard toilet, you need lots more BTUs. We have discussed this many times, if you haven’t done a full winterization, you need two independent (and adequate) heat sources in case the primary one quits. You could try what you suggest, but leave the gas turned on and the furnace at a low setting, in case the water heater is inadequate or stops running. The problem with this scenario is that if the shore power fails, you will run down the batteries fairly quickly, unless the trailer is out in the sun with solar panels... It might be prudent to at least blow air through all the outside water ports and the outside shower, to limit the chance of one near the hull freezing.... and some sort of remote temperature alarm would let you sleep better, since you could keep a close watch on the inside temp and take action if it drops too low. BTW, you have not filled out your profile or signature, please do so we know more about you. Are you being affected by the Bomb Cyclone? Be safe. John Davies Spokane WA