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I'm thinking you mean the GCFI 20A outlet you are plugged into had tripped. Your EMS readout displayed 12A which is the total input amperage from shore power, which would include the Xantrex charger if it was in fact charging at the time. Sounds like a temperamental GFCI to me and it's not the first time I've read this story on our Forum! Glad our home was built in 1980 when only bathrooms had GFCI outIets. If it was my garage or exterior outlet that I used for shore power, I would replace it with a standard 20A outlet, regardless of code. Or add a new 30A breaker to your service panel, run wire and a 30A dedicated outlet for shore power. This is what I did where we park our Oliver. Not running on the 2KW Xantrex? Check and lower your shut-off voltage setting which is often the case with Xantrex inverters (not Victron). Your oven pulling only 11A (12A - 1A) should run on any 15A household circuit, let alone 20A. And 11A on 120VAC is equivalent to 110A on 12VDC which translates to 1320W, which again should run on a 2000W inverter with a lot or room to spare! Could the oven be defective? Not likely, since it started up and pulled a measurement read by the EMS. You could think it's the oven since it blew on two power sources. But the microwave works. The oven must create a power spike the GCFI protection doesn't like. The only way to be sure is to connect to a shore power source that is not GFCI! The 30A shore power outlet at any campground are not GFCI outlets. Next time I need a GCFI outlet is the next time I take a shower with a live blow dryer in hand! 🤣

We’ve got the manual door lock, too. It’s one of those things (like the suburban hot water tank) that is simple and reliable. One less thing to worry about when you are way out “there”. Mike

We’ve had good luck with RVLock support - as they are responsive and quick to send out parts under warranty. I forget the exact failure mode, but our original OTT installed RCLock quit working. After chatting g with them on the phone they mailed out a replacement circuit board for the cost of shipping. (I’d whine about having to pay shipping - but I’ll get over it.) In the meantime, I had purchased a whole new unit from Amazon. This one talks yo you and had a lock/unlock sound that doesn’t wake the neighbors. I replaced the circuit board in the original lock and kept it as a spare. Last season, the “new” lock stopped unlocking reliably - only withdrawing the deadbolt about halfway and requiring a second attempt to get in to the trailer. So, the “spare” gets re-installed. Several more emails and sending them a video of the lick not working and they say they’re sending me something. Not sure what yet. I still don’t care for the battery situation. Trying to install 2 rows of 2 AA batteries stacked vertically and getting the battery cover on takes dexterity and fast hands.

We also had a great experience with RVLock last year when we replaced the keypad with the upgraded version (the numbers were peeling off on the original pad). After commenting this story to the RVLock folks manning their booth at the RV show in Quartzite last month - I was awarded with a huge swag bag of cool stuff! A great and responsive company, RVLock.