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I design stuff with a simple and free on-line program called Tinkercad, you can export designs as an STL file that is 3-D printer ready. A simple bezel design would take a few minutes. I started off using Voice-to-CAD, and AI generated designs, until I figured out how much easier Tinkercad is. I just watched a few tutorial videos on Youtube and the printer is pretty much plug and play. Honestly, I'm still re-wiring my brain to think of 3-D printing first, it opens up project possibilities that couldn't be done before. There are literally thousands of free ready to print designs for all sorts of things, including some great gadgets and parts you won’t find anywhere else. Check out websites like Thingaverse. Some designs, such as boxes, can be adjusted to any size, they have working hinges, latches, and sealing gaskets. A myriad of materials are available, including ABS, Nylon, and TPU, a rubber like material for flexible parts like gaskets. That “sealed” the deal for me. For mounting a new stereo in your larger hole, you could use JB weld to glue a couple of overlapping wood cleats on the backside of the hole for the mounting screws. Then make a bezel like Bill’s to fit. Geoff

John and Geoff, Agree, you guys have me thinking of thin aluminum bar glued to plastic behind IRV radio along with fiberglass & drilled through to secure everything with mounting screws. Thanks,

I have thought about putting the switch and LED between the TP holder and the air duct. Bill

The contrast is interesting. I don’t know how water could have entered our junction box, we’ve never had any kind of big leak. Possibly during its time in the factory? Strange.

Glad to help you feel better! 😂 Here's the recommended cutout for the DV 1100 and probably DV 1200, too: I don't have experience with a 3D printer. Thinking about cutting out 1/8" black plastic sheet (1/4" probably too thick) large enough to cover existing DV 1100/1200 cutout/ screws holes securing with black screws in existing holes, also with cutout for iRV unit to mount. Shape plastic sheet corners/edges with belt sander.

Bill, thank you for making me feel better! Now I'm happy ours is still fully working after all these years. I just remounted the bezel and speaker while listening to a CD that with the volume up sounded pretty good. You and I are both going to need that 3D printer! 🤣 Geoff, what does it take to program a detailed shape? I say this because the DV1200 is mounted by the 4 outer screws into the Oliver fiberglass. When you go to a smaller box there will be nothing to screw into. Good that the new units are likely half the weight. Maybe a plastic sheet thick enough to screw into and support the weight and/or a bracket or base the radio can sit on. Not so simple. Should the sheet be black or white?

So, I had this on my to-do list since Mike started this thread... What a difference in two hulls of the same era. Maybe the junction box on hull #135 took some water at some point. You can certainly see corrosion in Mike's pictures. Or maybe Mike got the bad installer on this one, right after the guy messed up something else on hull #113! Inside our junction box it's just perfect, clean as can be, everything tight! I didn't touch a thing, just replaced the cover, and for me this is not an annual inspection item.

We decided to go with metal valve stems 3 years ago. Shortly after doing so we had a flat, and the metal stem had failed.😣 I took XPLOR Hull #634 to our local discount tire shop and had all new rubber stems installed and all tires rotated and balanced. Zero issues since. We use the TST TPMS system and are very happy with it. The tech who does tires all day long said he sees more failures with metal stems than rubber. That was good enough advice for me. Cheers and Safe Travels!