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My springs arrived yesterday. We leave next week and will have them installed May 6 at Oliver, then we’ll go to East Tennessee before we head to the rally. Will provide observations. Mike

First day towing on Alcan springs update: -500 miles (Ubolts re-torqued at 50, 100 and 500 miles intervals to 90 ft lbs). Decreasing amounts of adjustment required as mileage increases) -ride slightly harsher during first 100 miles, harshness decreasing as mileage increases (finding nothing returning to the floor at 500 mile checkpoint). -running 45 psi in tires (was running 55 psi with stock springs). Monitoring tire wear at each stop. Likely will increase to 48psi at next stop. -less observable side to side (roll) movement. Very stable while underway (drove in high winds thru Kansas yesterday) -so far I am happy with the new springs I am very interested in reports from early hull number E2 owners who have purchased the Alcan springs. Wondering what their observations are as compared to stock heavy duty 5leaf springs they are replacing.

I have sprayed ours regularly through the years. I've used WD-40 (messy) and dry silicone lubricant (much better). Aluminum tends to want to "stick" to itself. I've not thought about using paraffin, but that is a good idea. It might stay on longer than my methods. Give it a shot and let's see how it works.

The rod and washer on our Hull #1291 are not rusted either, even though they have been wet many times. They appear to be galvanized steel. Makes we wonder if Oliver recently received a batch of poorly galvanized rods and washers. I concur with Topgun's recommendation: send the photos to Oliver Service via a service ticket, and request a replacement rod, washer and cotter pin.

Hello Everyone, We will move the Oliver Travel Trailer's website and Oliver Owners' forums to a new website host this Saturday evening, 4/27/2024. We will try to get this done through the night to minimize activity times. This migration is a necessary step to improve our website's performance. This migration is an enormous undertaking, and we are still determining an estimated completion time. We understand that this may cause some inconvenience, but we assure you that we are working diligently to make the transition as smooth as possible. During this period, the website and forums may experience intermittent downtime, and you may encounter difficulties accessing certain features. We sincerely appreciate your patience and understanding as we strive to complete this migration. Thank you for your continued support. We look forward to providing you with an improved online experience on our new website host. Best regards, Oliver Travel Trailers

I did, Lew (the owner) stated the person that wrote the email simply was mistaken.

Not yet, but I plan to add an external Anderson plug on the lower portion of the propane housing. I’ll wire it into the front jack power connection. I’ve already purchased this plug. https://a.co/d/dZGlkHd My refrigerator in the tow vehicle has an Anderson plug, so this will be a more secure setup than a typical cigarette lighter outlet. And the 640 A/hr batteries in the trailer won’t even notice the extra 2-3A load of the fridge.

Also, it would be helpful if you added a signature with which Oliver you own and your Hull number.

Here are the pics in jpeg format:

Thanks. Just figured out how to do that and added the info.

I use the solar accessory plug which is near my 2019 battery compartment for several 12v accessories. It has a SAE connection that is wired through a fuse to the trailer batteries. While its SAE connector it set for zamp panels it works for anything you wish. Just pay attention to polarity as the zamp connecters are reversed from normal SAE. Adapters can be made from that SAE plug to your fridge. Zamp Solar Port On Oliver EII - Note : Top Pin is ( + ) Terminal Bottom is ( - )

Yes, there was word that management WAS considering "adjustments", however, I think that it would be best to assume that at least 99% of the original announcement will stand without material change. Bill

I'm unclear why you would think that. Your wheels have you at 7.8K pounds, well above the stated 7K GVWR. Which tires, axles and spring packs are riding under your Hull #045? How much does your trailer weigh full of water, gear and ready to camp for a 3 month long foray? The wheels and tires under my Hull #050 have a load rating of just over 13K pounds. The Axles are rated at 10.4K pounds. The Alcan springs can support 11K pounds. The Outlaw Oliver has always weighed well over 7000 pounds in its natural habitat. And, it has traveled over 100K miles, most of it with the tires sitting at 80psi all without a single issue. I'll be forever grateful for Jim Oliver's guidance and assistance in designing the most over built Oliver rolling down the road. But, there are those here that think I tend to over-engineer everything.

Concur 100%. We put north of 1900 miles on the Alcan's on our last trip to Dallas from NM. Subjectively, high cross winds on I-40 near Amarillo did not cause nearly as much roll as before replacing the spring packs. We ran the tires at +/-50psi the entire run. Nothing different noticed inside the rig after stopping (window shades still attached, converter door under dinette still closed, glass flowers & vase still on dinette table, etc.). We'll be in Hohenwald 8-9MAY to have a couple 5.2k# Nev-R-Lube Dexter's mounted over the Alcans - so, we'll probably miss meeting you and Carol until we make it down to the rally...FYI Safe travels, All... Cheers!

Basically (like Steve) I've used dry silicone. A couple of times per year is all it takes. Wax will probably work but it is more work to put it on versus using a spray can.😁

We use Blaster products. We have both the silicone and Multipurpose. I use the silicone one on the steps

I have had my leaf springs replaced with the Alcan's and will soon share my feedback. My short ride home from my mechanic's place didn't tell me much but we'll head south soon for the rally and I'll report while we're on our way down. I'm planning to run my tires at 48 PSI. Will do as so many others have suggested and re-torque u-bolts regularly.

Yes - after I downloaded the pics I can see them. Suggestion - send the pics to Oliver Service and ask for a replacement rod and washer. Bill

The TST monitor has icons for the spare for both the TV and trailer, so it's no surprise that the sensors work even if the tire isn't rolling. We've found the pressure and temperature of the rolling tires usually display on the monitor sooner than for the spare.

Rationale: The TST monitor is programmed to show the wheel position of each sensor as it scrolls around the Oliver, as well as the TV if equipped. If a spare also has a sensor and deployed, the monitor was still show that wheel at the TT/TV spare mount position. I would rather remove the sensor from the flat tire and place it on the spare as not to disrupt the scrolling sequence. Also, if I choose to keep the spare on the ground and use the repaired tire as the spare, I don’t have to bother myself with reprogramming the TST monitor. As a side note, I recommend traveling with a set of replacement batteries for the type sensors used. Usually when glitches in monitor readings occur it is due to a weak battery.

Around 50psi.

Even if it was digital it would be a lot of work! Mike

One of the benefits of having owned a BMW motorcycle was that it allowed membership in a club known as the BMW Owners of America. In addition to a monthly magazine, available merch, regional and national rallies, there was a paperback booklet published annually that (on a voluntary basis) contained contact information for any member. This also included additional information as to the "services" that a member might provide to other members - such as - camping space, towing, coffee and conversation, tools to borrow, etc.. And, all BMW motorcycle dealers plus repair shops were listed. It sure would be nice to have something like this for our use, but, given the number of Olivers presently on the road I would think that the cost of compiling, printing and distributing such a thing would be fairly heavy. And, this doesn't include the time and effort to put it together in the first place. Bill

Mine is TST and I trust the readout for the spare...so far :)

Plug needed changed plus I need to be able to disconnect the black accessory power due to large LFP battery upgrade. DC to DC charger next addition. Black was already loose. Glad I found it and got trailer plug replaced. Plus thanks to one of the forum members I got the idea to add housing storage for it. Thanks! OP

I also carry the Dewalt in my truck behind the back seat. I like that it can use a battery or a 12 volt cable. It has no issue inflating the tires to 57 psi which is what I keep the Oliver tires. When inflating tires it is actually my go to inflator rather than my big compressor. I carry some 6x6 blocks which I have used to give me a stable base for the jack to sit on as well as an extra few inches height the two times I had to jack up the trailer on the side of the road (once for a flat tire and once when one of the drum brakes locked up). When my children learned to drive I made them change a tire on the car by themselves. They had to pull out the jack and spare, jack up the car, remove the tire and put on the spare, lower the car back to the ground and then pull off the spare and put everything back where it came from. I just quietly sat in a chair while they worked.

I'd unhook from the water there until the plumber is long gone. You don't want contaminated water from where they worked on the lines to get into your system. Another reason to use from your own water tank when the other choices are questionable.

This is a good example of why we always fill the fresh water tank with the RV park plumbing system via our fresh water hose & activated carbon filter. Once the FWT is full (indicated by water exiting the overflow tube near the main hatch steps), we stow the hose/filter for a tidy "look" outside(*). This way - using the OTT water system is exactly the same procedure whether we're boon docking or staying at an RV Park (usually with unknown water pressure unless we ask). This practice exercises the water pump "ON/OFF" procedure used by OTT owner/occupants. If you're feeling "froggy" - as your FWT begins to drop in volume, use your 6-gal spare fresh water container to exercise your "boon docking" water valve procedure by topping off the FWT with the spare water. Then reposition your water valves, refill the FW container, and stow it and the hose. (*): Don't you just love seeing that SOB at an RV park leaking precious water everywhere from their fresh water hose connections that's spread helter-skelter between the hose bib and the trailer?

Thanks for your replies, Mike & Carol, and Sea Dawg! Sorry for the response delay, we were packing for our 7 month RV trip to Nova Scotia from Michigan. Day 6 now, Boston! I will have a base + no pets. It might be mostly parked. Tow vehicle: I'll have to get a bigger one. We have a dually for the 43' 5th wheel + Toyota Sierra for my A-Liner Scout for now. I like the Oliver floorplan: rear bathroom makes it much more spacious. Olivers seem to be the best. Why get something else only to move up later? Better to start right at the top!

Any ideas for easy install of a 12V access to exterior of Elite 2? We want to run an external freezer without running inverter! I have a few ideas, but has anyone already installed this?

Yep they do work on the spares. Researched and then called the MFG and they confirmed my faulty memory. Have re-written my above post accordingly. The transmitter sends a milli-second burst of the ID number, pressure and temperature data whenever there is air pressure from the tire to the monitor. It will be read on the monitor IF: It is within it's range Has a good battery AND it is not shielded from the monitor (Such as under the vehicle was for my Toyota Sequoia For my Sequoia the tire sensor was shielded well and did not work. I'll be re-installing the sensors on my spares this summer! GJ PS: For winter storage, recommend the Egg Carton storage suggestion with removal of the batteries from the sensors to protect from potential battery generated corrosion.

I’ve got spray silicone and paraffin, so looks like we’re in business. Thank you @John Dorrer and @topgun2!

We just returned from a 5 week trip west in our 2021 LE1 with 260 AH of lithium newly installed and 300 W of solar - 200 W on top and an outboard extra 100W panel. We had several 5-day boon docking sessions and never had a problem with keeping power around 100% - or getting it back up to 100% after a cloudy day. BUT, we had mostly sun and we have the 3 way refrigerator running on propane. The bigger challenge in boon docking was running out of fresh water, or needing to dump grey or black tanks. Full time would need water and sewage hookups, at least, we suspect. And electricity via shore power or a generator in cloudy seasons. One other challenge - we needed to develop careful choreography and rhythms to live well in a tight space. And our dog had to learn them as well!! We actually had a lot of laughs as we figured them out!! Geoff

I purchased the Powerwerx plug @Steve Morris highlighted, but returned it because there is no weatherproof way to seal it when in use. Even if mounted inside the propane tank housing there is a chance of moisture intrusion. I keep my Dometic dual-zone in the TV under cap and primarily operate it on a solar portable power station. I’ve never considered taking it out of the TV when at camp; it’s very heavy when loaded, and like keeping it out of the elements and secure from theft. However, as backup I can run it from a bumper-mounted Anderson. Although this particular plug can be fitted with an environmental boot as shown, it is not flush-mount and better suited for a forward rather than a side Oliver mount. I also use this Anderson to run the Viair.

Your comment prompted me to go take another look at the fridge light. My light and thermostat seem to be one unit with a wire going into the interior of the fridge. I do not see a way of pulling the plug on the light. Can you illuminate on how you disconnect the light.

Many thanks for reaching out to us with this "heads-up." We owners in the OTT forums appreciate you, Jason! Keep up the great work - it really shows... Cheers!

I have the EEZTire TPMS and both the spare tire on the Ollie and on my F-150 DO register with this system for both pressure and temperature. Bill

Thanks Jason, 👍

Sounds good Jason. Thanks for the heads up!

I've been meaning to write this for some time and it's primarily directed for us very few Elite I (one axle) owners. I was preparing, last summer, to take my 2022 Elite I Hull #1209 to Hohenwald just shy of it's one year anniversary. My primary issue was a fiberglass defect I discovered on the roof that several of you on this Forum suggested I get repaired. A week prior, I decided to install mudflaps inside the wheel wells on the Ollie. This required that I jack it up and remove and each tire to access the frame in the wheel well where I mounted an L bracket on which to mount the mud flap. I used a 4 ton bottle jack on the front jack point and once jacked up, a 4 ton jack stand under the rear jack point for safety. I carry both on all trips. Earlier I had installed a carrier and storage box on the rear bumper receiver hitch and posted it here May 13, 2023. At that time, I developed my technique of removing the spare by just partially sliding out the rear bumper receiver hitch assembly just enough to remove the cover and spare. The carrier and box stayed filled and connected to the hitch. I was about 90 miles SE of Hohenwald on a Sunday afternoon on a two lane highway when my EEZ RV Tire Pressure Monitor alarm sounded. My curbside tire pressure was dropping. I started looking for a place to pull over as I was in a long stretch of road with a railing and no shoulder. I saw an adequate shoulder about 0.4 miles ahead. I watched the pressure fall from 60 when the alarm sounded to 8 lbs as I got to the shoulder. There was no cell service so no AAA. My TV is a Subaru Ascent SUV. I've learned to travel lighter on each trip, but I had to dig for the jack and jack stand. Since then, it's easily accessible. It was inconvenient, but I was so thankful that I had just gone through the process of jacking up the Ollie and removing the spare. I tried first pumping the tire back up, but heard air coming from the base of the valve stem. At the tire store in Hohenwald the next day, it was the valve stem that had cracked and caused the incident. My purpose in posting is to strongly urge, especially Elite I owners, to at least practice and prepare for this scenario and I can't recommend enough using a tire pressure monitor system! Safe travels and I hope to meet more of you at Lake Guntersville next month. (We'll be in site E25) Ron

Ditto. I highly agree as we all learn best by doing the task in ideal conditions. When it happens on the road they are able to do what they need to do safely and with confidence. I would also add giving them a learning experience with: Battery corrosion removal Oil change Windshield wiper replacements Engine air filter cleaning and change when needed Each was a great confidence builder for them, and results in far less worry for Dad when they head down the road. Even more grins for Dad was watching the next older train the next younger on the process. By the time my youngest (daughter) got to do them, she had watched it before and was on autopilot. Took Dad three days to lose the Perma-Grin. GJ

Did you ask why @Mountainman198 was told (in writing I assume) and sold springs rated at 2K LBS?

So far, no vibrations just some low humming but acceptable (muted by mattress). I did glue down a rubber mat on the basement floor before weighting the aluminum base and then setting HDPE board to wall with epoxy.

No - not mine.

We have the same tires...if I can them to ever wear out I'll probably switch over to metal stems then. 37,000+ miles and going strong (probably just jinxed myself ) John

Thanks for bringing this information to our attention, I stand corrected! Going back to a past FB comment I wrote: I went with the equipped rubber stems until they started failing. Our Texas heat is brutal and in the 110°+ heatwave where traveling my tire temps reached 105°+. Hopefully the aluminum stems will perform better in these extreme conditions. I have no regrets switching to the metal stems, for peace of mind if nothing else. Again, thanks.

Beutiful Install, Im Jealous you have double the power with my Battleborns. I love the Victron in last two rigs I had , power assist makes all difference in world, I never blow a basic breaker on anywhere I plug into. The only issues I did notice is the victron when charging or running and getting hot vibrates and is noisy against the wall. I placed a piece of bubble foil behind the victron on my install for sound dampening and should have painted the surface with Lizard skin or some sound dampening material. How noisy is your unit when running? Just curious Thanks Ty I have ordered the new victron 12v to 12volt charger to charge my Battleborn batteries as the efficiency is 95 percent or more on the unit. I am going to charge those batteries with a Pecron all in one unit with two 300 packs attached. I like your install with bigger batteries and watch a lot of Will Prowse videos also. GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!

Its also nice have a full/same-size spare, roger?

Hey, Mike: Just a thought which has worked for us on several occasions with some of our Victron components - try giving the boys at Battleborn Batteries in Reno, NV a shout. They are an authorized Victron dealer and are well accustomed to helping out DIY'ers. We've called them many times and have always got a solution to our issues. They're very patient and will walk you through a troubleshooting process to get that AC operating with the MP2. Keep us posted as you go through the troubleshooting as we're interested in doing the same MP2 mod after our 2,000w Xantrax fails. Good luck!

Command Strip products are awesome in the Ollie. If you havent checked them out yet, Tooletries makes a shower storage line that works in the Ollie as much more than just shower accessories. I have two of the “Henry” holders in the bed area of my trailer to hold all of the remotes. They are silicone so do not scratch and also have several of the “Arnold” hooks around inside the trailer for string lights, keys, etc. In the shower, the “Frank” holds the shampoo and conditioner on the wall and out of the way. https://tooletries.com/collections/shower-bath-organization Also just ordered two of these for the living area https://30watt.com/products/sudski It is fun finding new things to make life inside the Ollie more dialed-in