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Oliver's response has been outstanding. We are working together to address the issue. More to follow when I have a chance to provide a detailed update. Bob

San Isabel National Forest , Cascade Campground near Buena Vista Colorado Gonna hit the nearby hiking trails, Ghost Town of Saint Elmo, Hot Springs Got the hang of the Ford 10 speed on mountain passes tow haul mode only , select M , 2nd gear off the top

No worries, thanks yeah I did get clued into that trick. Worked great, the suspension quieted right down. Still a little creaky, suspecting the leaves are rubbing or maybe there’s a bit of grease missing somewhere. I noticed on the Alcan page they smartly put poly rub pads on the end of the leaves to avoid this. Well we’ll be in the neighborhood this summertime (roughly) so I set up an appointment to get fitted at Alcan. Full hog five leaf, who am I to argue with them? And I was thinking about when camping we’re going over weight anyhow with all the tanks and people in it. Plus I generally agree with having some extra margin and IIRC Alcan believes 20% is the right amount so OK.

Just replaced the Blum slide on our nightstand drawer. This item is the OEM part replacement. Maybe I should have bought the 6-pack, LOL! The nightstand drawer and 5 kitchen drawers all use the 18" length, the short drawer uses the 12" Blum slide. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G7LQ3PQ4/?th=1 Lately, the drawer would open during travel so I suspected something was wrong. After removing the drawer (squeeze two orange levers underneath), I found the old slide was truly worn out. When fully extended the end would drop a couple inches. Not good! The new slide is in and now again it works great. But per the subject of this thread, OTT installed these slides with only three screws per slide! 😒 The slides are rated to carry 100 LBS, but three short #6 screws are certainly NOT! A couple year backs, working on a kitchen sink leak, I doubled all the screws on the kitchen drawers and went up one size. At the time, I forgot to do the nightstand drawer. The slides all wobbled a bit when unloaded with only 3 screws and I now contend it was the lazy installation that allowed this drawer to shake and eventually wear out the slides. These slides are substantial but need to be installed properly! BTW, Blum supplies 20 wood screws in these kits! 20 screws for 2 slides and 2 brackets not used for our application. I installed 8 screws on each slide! Why not? Blum certainly intends more than 3 should be used! I put 3 in the same holes to hold each slide in place and then drilled small pilot holes and screwed in 5 more (see pic)! Now this should last my lifetime. 😎 I suggest removing all your Oliver drawers, having at least 6 mounting screws per slide, 12 per drawer minimum.

The Oliver Porch Lights are bright for a dark campsite, so we rarely use them. But if you need to light up the area they work great. I've often wondered, why isn't there lighting on the front and rear of the Oliver? I asked a year ago about replacement lights for our OEM Porch Lights and just purchased some recently. OTT should install these lights in all four directions. I would have done one up front too, but running wire would be difficult. I got something else for up front, more on that later. https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319 I carefully measured the four Porch Lights OTT installed, as the distance from hull belly line, which btw holds a tape measure nicely, up to centerline of the Porch Light at the mounting screws. Turns out they were all installed at different heights +/- 3/4". As a special bonus, this light is 1/4" off from front to the rear mounting screws. My new Rear Porch Light, I promise is the straightest of the bunch! 🤣 It's not easy to choose the best spot to drill into the exterior of your hull, this one especially. I cut away some of the white insulation in the back of the attic. I used a 2-ft piece of metal fish-tape with the ends curled back, running it down the inside of the back exterior hull. Repeatedly, it measured 12" form the bottom of the OLIVER taillight to where the fish-tape hit the top of the rear window frame. It measured 12" so I figured I should go 10" max. Looking from the outside, there is a flat fiberglass frame around the rear window. Above that, the top rear is convex. I had to find the best spot so that the approx. 8" x 1 1/2" light would sit flat in both directions. If not water would get behind it. I drilled a 1/4" hole centered to the window, so the light is just above the flat frame area of the rear window. I soldered and heat shrink extra length of wire to the light. If they only attached 18" of wire! Offset the splices so that they would fit nicely into the drilled hole. It wasn't an easy pull but a few ins and outs and the light pulled flush (would be easier with 2 people, one in one out). I eyeballed the light level to the window frame. I wanted to VHB the light housing vs. drilling two mounting holes but the design of the light would not allow for it. They do not include hardware. Found the stoutest 1" course thread screws that would fit the openings and I drilled 6/94" holes after marking the centers. Wiring? I wanted to add the new rear light to the Side Porch Lights (streetside). However, I could not find the switch leg in the back corner of the attic and I did not want to remove all the stuff out of the kitchen cabinets. But that would be the right way to do it. Cabinets empty, you can easily run wiring up to the main switch panel. Our hull had a rear camera and a separate switch to power it. I removed the camera a year ago, so I'm using this separate switch with existing wiring. I copied something Geoff did, where he used a Sharpie to black out the word "Awning." Mine has a thin cut piece of black tape over the word "Camera" so it just reads "Rear" now! 🤣 I had to wait patiently for dusk and dark tonight! The hull looks great with the new Rear Porch Light to compliment the side lights. And finally, it alone lights up the yard! 😎

This morning while doing a full systems ‘go’ inspection on Hull #634 XPLOR, I discovered when I configured the Truma water heater valve to the ON position, an impressive stream of water shot directly out of the Truma filter exterior housing. After a little troubleshooting, I removed the filter and discovered that inside the filter housing, a small black round piece of plastic had blown out of the filter housing. This rendered the filter useless. We have had 5.5 years of trouble-free service from our tankless Truma and this was a first. We like our Aqua Go. I am posting this in the event anyone should have the same issue with their Truma filter. I have the optional antifreeze filter which works in a pinch as a back up. If you do not have the optional antifreeze filter as a back up, you will be stuck like Chuck with no hot water. In order for the Aqua Go to work, it has to have the filter element. I contacted Oliver Service and ordered a OEM replacement and an extra back filter up of the exact one you see in the below pics. “Two is one and one is none.” 🫡🇺🇸 Replacement filters are $95.00 plus shipping. Thank you Mike Sharpe for getting my new filters shipped out. The tiny piece of plastic that broke loose. Here is the filter that failed. You should not be able to look through your filter. The arrow points to where this tiny piece blew out. There is no way to repair it. I pass this on, so that if you have this issue you can just replace the filter with a new one.

@DunnYet Open source - No, you should not leave the Truma winterization (bypass) filter or standard stainless steel filter installed all season long. [1] If you are actively using your RV during the camping season, you should be using the standard stainless steel filter (or the Truma Electric Antifreeze Kit if actively in use). The official winterization plug/filter is strictly designed to replace the standard filter for winter storage and is not meant to be run full-time. Keep these quick winterization rules in mind: For Winter Storage: Drain your Truma system and remove the filter cartridge entirely. Store the filter in a dry place inside your RV and leave the yellow Easy Drain Lever closed. Leaving any filter inside during freezing weather can trap water, expand, and permanently damage the unit. [1, 2, 3] For Active Winter Camping: If you plan to travel in freezing temperatures, you can use the Truma Electric Antifreeze Kit. This specific kit can be installed in place of your standard filter to keep the water heater from freezing without draining your propane. [1, 2] For Normal Summer Use: Remove the winterization plug and reinstall your standard stainless steel mesh filter before de-winterizing and turning your water system on for regular use.

Thanks for sharing David, I just purchased a backup on Ebay for $25. If anyone needs a replacement or spare and can’t find one on the cheap, they are available on Amazon as well. https://a.co/d/00C38npm

Thanks a million for invite ! That is so kind of you ! we plan to stay in the Colorado High Country for most of the summer one of Therese days we will visit you in Prescott

Thanks very much @Patriot for this. It makes me wonder - I generally leave the “heater” filter in all the time regardless of season. Should I pull it for the “off season” and only put it in during the cold camping months? I only switch to the standard filter when running the decalcification cycle. Am I doing this wrong?

Wired and tested the iRV62 today. Very easy to wire to Oliver wiring with AM/FM, DVD, and CD player working great with original Jensen TV and Jensen speakers! Great choice!

Try unloading the fitting and likely you will get it to take grease. Sorry for speed reading this 36 page thread if you already tried this. GJ

6 or 7 consecutive for Wyoming. This will be number 21 for consecutive years in either Wyoming, Montana, Idaho or Colorado. Ya just don't know where the "stupid" fish are located! 😉 Bill

Getting ready to leave at near the end of the month (June) for the rest of the summer. Got to get all of those "honey do's" done first!🥰

Home for the Summer! 🤣 Come see us if your heading one state further West! 😎 Got electric and water for you, free dump station down the street, and lots of great camping around town and in the Prescott NF! (no bighorn sheep though, how cool!)

I have been using the Cielo Breez Max smart thermostat for almost a year with no apparent issues, nor have I read any negative reports from other users (Oliver, as well as SOB owners) regarding potential harm to their RV air conditioners. Some have expressed concern with the power ON/OFF attribute of the Cielo and inherent longterm harm to electrical control and mechanical components. Proper configuration of settings to prevent ‘short cycling’ is paramount in avoiding said harm, whereby the compressor is allowed time to equalize refrigerant pressures and thus, significantly lessen subsequent strain on sensitive equipment. I’m of the opinion 1) that Cielo has built in scheduling features by default to provide for necessary delays between compressor cycles, as do most RV thermostats, and 2) the soft start device pairs well with the Cielo to further lessen any longterm concerns I may have. I can honestly say that the Cielo has completely resolved the ‘humidity spike’ issues once experienced and exceeds my expectations as a replacement thermostat in our Oliver.

Picture below shows old Ventline fan removed and the roof area cleaned up. I used ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic scrapers. I cleaned up the edges of the original holes with a chamfer bit in a drill motor. The factory didn’t align the old vent with the hole very well and didn’t drill and chamfer the holes which resulted in chipped gelcoat. In this picture the pilot holes (1/16”) for MaxxFan Dome are located and drilled. I wanted the screws to be perpendicular to the MaxxFan mounting flange not the roof line so I tried to drill them at the correct angle to the surface of the roof. I did a lot of test fitting inside and out. The outside fan, the middle sleeve, and the interior trim ring must fit together well for this retrofit to work out right. I used a carpenter’s pencil and 2 rubber bands from of a bunch of broccoli to hold the sleeve in place while I got the pieces located just right. I did this before I marked the holes for the flange. New pilot holes are enlarged to 1/8 inch and chamfered Test fit the screws to make sure they are not too tight. If they are too tight you risk twisting the screw in two in the hole. If the test fit is too tight go up to 9/64 inch bit. I used a 1/16 inch drill for a pilot then enlarged with a 1/8 inch drill and finished with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. Be sure to use sharp bits and drill SLOW. I wanted the flange to be straight, not pulled down to fit the curved roof. I applied one layer of butyl all the way around the bottom of the flange. I then applied 2 short strips between about 10:00-2:00 and 4:00- 8:00. I again applied 2 even shorter strips between 10:30-1:30 and 4:30-7:30. I tried to build the butyl up in the places where the widest gaps would occur, that is the front and back of the fan. I wiped the mounting location with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry and filled the old and new screw holes with ASI 335 and set the fan in place using a couple of screws inserted through the flange and butyl for alignment. The black button on the handle goes toward the front of the trailer. Work the wires and splice connectors into the space between the hulls while inserting the fan assembly into the hole in the roof. Tighten each screw down a little at a time and try to keep from distorting the flange. I would tighten the screws and leave them for a while to let the butyl push out then I would tighten them a little more until I got the flange sitting like I wanted it to sit and then left the butyl to do what it wanted to for a while. While the butyl was oozing I went inside the trailer and placed the sleeve back in the hole and made sure the upper edge was against the bottom of the fan and the notch in the sleeve for the wire retainer was in place and using a pencil I marked a line around the sleeve where it exits the curved ceiling. I drew another line 0.35” below this line to account for the interior trim ring and cut the sleeve to this line using a pair of heavy shears and a razor knife and finished to fit with a sanding block. I attached the trim ring and tightened the screws enough to pull the ring up to conform to the curvature of the ceiling.

I took it to mean that you place the power button forward, not the release button. That’s why I posted this question, to get responses from owners whose Olivers had the MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome installed at the factory. Also, I don’t intend to pull the flange down much to form to the roof curvature. I intend to build the butyl tape up some under the front and rear of the flange where it stands proud of the surface. Bill

I totally agree though our Furrion unit is probably older than yours but regardless these things could have only been made by a very troubled mind. Effectively we never use ours, never watch TV while out in the Oliver and radio reception is near non existent in places where we usually are at. If it weren't for creating an ugly gapping hole I would have taken the thing out years ago. Looks like you found an excellent alternative. Looks nicer too.

I have a new 2026 with the D35 3” axels, EZ everything and the 072-042 1750 springs. Considering whether going for a heavier spring makes sense now for these reasons. In 4k of towing so far I sensed no issues, no roll at all, no porpoising except on bad roads where you can’t avoid it, and a smooth tow. I previously had researched Bigfoots quite a bit before settling on Oliver. Over there an owner was looking to upgrade to a heavier suspension but was advised against it by the Bigfoot company owner (forget his name now). Reason being “that axel would beat the hell out of the trailer”. This makes sense and jives with the experience above. A higher rating will necessarily be a stiffer suspension. This will have a comparable narrow band frequency response to vibrations, relative to a less stiff system I play as an engineer by day and while the natural tendency is to over engineer, when it comes to mechanical design that’s often not a good idea, but I’m not an expert in suspensions. Anyhow I’m wondering whether the stiffer springs are a good idea here. Older Oliver’s it might be good, but not so sure now.

This is the direction I would like to see as well. One of the US Spring manufacturers (St. Louis Spring) said they would replicate the springs on my E2 with USA sourced 5160 spring steel if I would send them a new one to copy. Knowing what I know now, I certainly would have paid a premium at time of purchase of my Oliver for USA made springs. I would like to see Oliver investigate this path. Now that they are at dealers, it would certainly further set them apart from the rest sitting on Chinese suspension. I cringe now knowing that my trailer went 25,000 miles supported by a $150 set of springs (again, not Oliver's fault. The entire RV components industry has gone to the cheapest possible cost model without regard to quality or safety).