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With a tandem axle trailer and a heavy truck you can have a catastrophic trailer tire failure and not even know it. You won't feel it. With the TPMS you know right away and can start reacting, minimizing damage to your rim and trailer and reducing overloading of the remaining tire on that side. That's what happened to us. Our TPMS went off and we got away with only a broken mud flap and cosmetic damage because we stopped with most of the tire still on the rim. You could also have a fast leak from road debris. It could go flat without you feeling it, then chew itself to bits on the rim before you knew you had a problem. Our TPMS also alerted us to a catastrophic trailer brake failure. One wheel started running much hotter than normal. We pulled over and heard noise from that wheel. Turned out the brake assembly had come apart inside the drum. So, yes, I consider TPMS a crucial safety feature.

This makes alot of sense. It is far easier to grease and visually observe how the chassis is functioning/wearing with wheels off. But it is a royal pain as every time i take the wheels off the ez-flex inverts on me and then in addition to remounting, and retorquing, there is the jacking to correct the linkage inversion, once on each side. I guess no pain, no gain.

Turns out these parts as pictured will be at The Rally next week 4-Sale. A good traveling spare set would include a left and right hand set to cover a full axle rebuild. Anybody who can change a trailer tire can mount this hardware on roadside if necessary (think Alaska trip). The hubs come off with a small circlip and one large nut. The brake backing plates connect with 5 nuts on the axle studs (you can see 4 of 5 nuts in the picture). These parts are listed on eTrailer to see their retail value. These are brand new parts to be sold at a very good cash price. Please PM me if interested. You could pick up the parts pictured at the Rally and I would ship a like set for the other side to you free shipping.

Below is a diagram for a 2017 Elite II which is the same as my 2016 hull #116. Bill p.s. included are a couple of others that you might need at some point.

Prefer not to have that experience and thus lean toward the complete replacement route so share your cautious approach. But in all of this it is not obvious to me how the tire pressure monitor helps prevent a catastrophic blow out versus frequently visually checking inflation and watching for bulges or tire issues at every stop - only takes a minute. Seems like tire temperature might be a more important indicator. So do you see TPMS more as a convenient way to watch your tires or an actual safety feature? Obviously before a blowout the pressure is a number and after a blowout its zero.

I believe that it is obvious that the sons of the original founding fathers of the company still do care deeply about the product that they produce and we all enjoy. Do not confuse this with the original (and continuing) generous reasons that the Forum was created. Oliver established and pays for our OWNERS Forum as a place where Oliver owners and prospective owners can get together to discuss (without Company influence) all things related to our trailers and have never sold or released the names or any other information related to the Forum to anyone outside Oliver (unlike other platforms that use this method to generate revenue). The Moderators are NOT paid or are in any way influenced by anyone at Oliver nor (to my knowledge) is anyone else connected with our Forum. There is one person (paid by Oliver) at Oliver whose job it is (amongst a bunch of other jobs) to help us with things related to the proper performance of the platform that is used to operate the Forum. And, from time to time other personnel will take a look to see what is going on. There are also those rare occasions when the Moderators (and/or other members of the Forum) will "alert" staff at Oliver of a particular discussion that might be of direct interest to the company. That's it - this is OUR Forum to run and control with extremely little influence from the Company. Bill

Congrats from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli. Happy Camping.

My Tacoma was a 2012 and I had installed the TRD Supercharger, so plenty of power. The limitation was weight and range. Be careful not to overload - tongue weight, your body weight and cargo add up fast. I was stopping every 200 miles or less to fill the gas tank. Also, be aware that the overall weight of the Tacoma makes it easier for the trailer to push around in certain circumstances. I was always cautious on downhills and downhill curves. We’ve always liked the Tacoma’s we’ve owned, they just aren’t optimal for towing a 6,000 pound paperweight! After upgrading to a couple of half tons we’ve now been towing with a 2500 diesel for the past 5 years and the difference is night and day. A Tacoma will do the job, just be wary of its limitations! Mike

I am just up the road in cheyenne and would also be willing to come down and purchase the front tray if you are interested. Going full time in my 22 is going to be an adventure and I think storing the generator and gas can outside my truck topper would be ideal.

Nothing yet, but I'd like a large cabinet in its place. The microwave is still in place.

@topgun2 I've read about (and would like to attend) the Texas Rally, but somehow I never heard of the Florida Rally. Is there a section of the forum (or the website) where these are featured? Since they seem largely organized by owners, I would think the forum is the better place (maybe I've just not discovered it yet).

Bill Thanks! Forgot to mention the Hungry Mother SP VA rally has a Facebook group, too.

We are Alex and Kelly, the new owners (as of June '26) of Hull 1458, or as we have name it, "The Odyssey." We've been looking at Olivers for a number of years and just couldn't settle, I suspect even frustrating Jason somewhere along the line as he patiently tried to help us make up our minds a couple times. As providence would have it, Hull 1458 (which happens to be a special number for us) popped up for sale early in 2026, and we were able to work out a deal with the former owners (Art and Jill), who graciously waited for Kelly to finish teaching in May this year so we could drive cross country from Florida to Oregon, then take about three months traveling back home and taking in some amazing sites in this beautiful Country we call home (video highlights attached)... We're looking forward to the Rally at Lake Guntersville (THANKS Adam!) later this month... See you all there!! Cannon Beach, Oregon 9F255D47-6E77-4EBD-BC48-D587624552CB.mp4

I've met with another couple of Olivers on the road! One on my way to Elk Mountain Campground at Wind Cave, south of Hot Springs SD (Terry & Terri Hand, Hull #143) And then last week I met Kathy & Nancy who were locals from Abilene Kansas camping at West Rolling Hills Campground, on Milford Lake. Kathy couldn't quite remember her hull number; she thought it was 17xx but it was a 2022. It's always great to meet another Oliver on the road.

Well I just crawled under there to get a better understanding of the drain port. Ours is in the form of a plastic flanged bulkhead fitting that appears to extend about four inches up through the bottom hull just off the aft corner of the fridge compartment. It’s ID is about 3/4 inch and upon shining a light up inside, there is a fine mesh screen at the upper end and it appears to have a black fiberish filter material on top of the screen. There’s board dividing the fridge compartment from the galley drawer space, so no access to the drain from the outside fridge access panel. My guess is the mesh and what appears to be a filter material are there to prevent anything from getting into the freshwater tank through the drain. But this also would restrict the flow of water during the filling process. Sounds like there’s a few questions for Oliver service to better understand the principle of design and of course what to do if this filter/mesh becomes clogged over time.

Obviously, I haven't poked around enough in this amazing Forum space! Thanks Bill -- this is great.

topgun2 thanks for the offer. If we have any questions, we will post, them here

I failed to mention - If you stay in Lambert's campground and eat at the restaurant be sure to mention this to your server and you will receive a 10% discount on your meal. Bill

Whenever we’re in Branson we visit the Keeter Center. Great food, nice gift shop. Students wait tables as a part of their tuition and it is always a good experience. Mike

Thanks for the detailed response. I agree—the wiring is a mess, and that’s exactly why I’m redoing all of it. I did not know about the failure rate of the Optifuse. I’m also curious about the maximum of three wires on a lug, and why there are two connections ahead of the Optifuse. For my upgrade, I’ll be using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor with ANL fuses.

Thank you. I had not checked out the 2019 Oliver Manual before. I just downloaded a copy. I see many differences comparing our older hull but still can be helpful.

Does this mean the "fuse is good?" it's certainly not a conclusive test and it doesn't mean there's a 12V source connected to the breaker. +12V on the source side of the breaker shows you have connection to the batteries. +12V on the load side shows the breaker is closed providing a power connection to the bus. A dead (or disconnected) converter will only keep you from recharging batteries when connected to shore power. A running converter is not required to operate lights, the jacks or anything else 12VDC. Converter status is independent of these 12V loads getting power from the batteries.

jd, thanks for sharing the photo of your original 12‑volt distribution. It’s definitely cleaner than what my original setup looks like. I’ve attached a photo of mine—minus the 8‑gauge input wire. I’m in the middle of replacing everything and wanted a picture before I completely disassemble it. On my install, there are two wires on the input side of the Optifuse (not counting the main 8‑gauge battery feed that’s been removed). I haven’t traced them yet, but I suspect one may be for the breakaway switch. I don’t want to hijack the thread until the main issue is resolved, but identifying these wires would save me some time. I know that the heavy red wire on the output side goes to the converter and the three jack fuses are also easily identified, but I have not traced the others out. As for troubleshooting the thread creators main problem, a ground can also be found on the inverter chassis for your voltmeter. I hope all is going well and solution has been found. Dean

Did you see the manual? It’s got over a dozen diagrams in it, I just did a snip of one of them. Most of the circuits are shown.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/oliver-university/ The best wiring diagram I can find is in the 2019 manual. See link to Oliver University. Many of us have appealed to OTT unsuccessfully for wiring diagrams. I saw a previous post from you that indicated you had LiTime batteries installed by a technician. Did they by chance install an ANL fuse or a circuit breaker? If so, that should be checked. What is the voltage of your batteries? It should show on your solar controller and also your See Level display.

Unfortunately OTT installed this +bus under the bed and the -bus (ground) under the dinette and every Oliver is wired somewhat differently! 🤣 Checkout my picture below. Ignore the bottom half of the picture which is all stuff I installed, but the ground bus at the top of the picture. Notice the coiled up yellow/red-striped wire center of picture. This is a ground wire I added for testing. I leave it there just wound up, but unwound it's long enough to be a test ground for anything inside the cabin. It's a good tool to have ready. I made this recently to test for voltage at the water pump and switches when our water pump went dead (found loose wire on bathroom switch). Believe it not, for a quick test, you could use the foil covered insulation anywhere in the basement. Most of it is grounded, although it could be a weak ground and not show full voltage. Be careful with hot wires near this foil. If all your lights and jacks are not working, this breaker must be dead or there's no current coming into it. In the original installation of our Oliver, the converter was wired after the breaker. Actually, you can see it in the picture I posted above in my prior post. The wire coming in from the right came from the B+ battery terminal. Notice the red 8 AWG wire on the left post. It runs to the front connected to the 12VDC fuse panel and hence the PD converter that was integrated to the panel. Did you open the battery bay and test for voltage right at the batteries? Do you have 6 or 8 AWG wires connected at the batteries? Do these cables have voltage there where they start? Then you want to get a ground near your breaker and test there. I've read several posts re these breakers failing.

If you have Lithionic batteries, there is a round push button switch on top of each battery. If they energized the push button will have a light on. Try calling OTT before they close for the weekend. They may help.

I have seen that "rock" before. Well maybe its companion. So great to hear of the new adventures planned in your new Ollie. If you make it down to the rally and would like a spot on the way or after, we are just up the road, lot of space and a site if your so inclined. We would luv to have you -Just message me - I around. Enjoy.

Sounds like a great adventure! Welcome!! Mike

Wow, that's the way to start out with your new Oliver! 🤠

Welcome to the family! Remember to bring a camera and a notebook to the Rally. Hopefully we will get a chance to exchange a few words there. Bill

In your Ollie?

This is Where We Have Been So far.

I can see OTT not wanting to facilitate private sales of used Olivers. It's not a good business model. On a personal basis, we're never buying or selling another Oliver, so who cares? I would think this is true for most of us. The Oliver is a life trailer that most of us buy once and keep in the family. What would be helpful is a classified section for unused Oliver parts. I've sold my Calmark cover, sold my bike rack, sold my original 2KW Xantrex, all just from slight mentions in my mod posts. But it took 2 years to do so and an Oliver Parts sales section would be great (not a vendor space, just for owners). I'm not using our Andersen 2 5/16" WDH or brand new Nev-R Lube hubs. See, I did it again. I want a solid aluminum front basket that somebody here took off to add a locked/covered case. If you've owned an Oliver for more than a couple of years, we all have stuff sitting on the shelf.

As @topgun2 suggests, I hope you come to the rally -- you will meet many happy Oliver owners, see personalized trailers, and OTT usually includes informational seminars by the Oliver team as well as some of the component manufacturers.

I want your epic Oliver pictures. It could be beautiful landscapes, the trailer in an incredible campsite, or breath taking views. We we want to highlight all the awesome places our trailers travel! Send me an email with the photos and some information about it: Media@olivertraveltrailers.com

Vish - Yes, an Oliver model similar to the Elite I is in the works and most likely will be presented at the October Oliver Owner's Rally during the third week of October. Bill

Too cool, looks like we’re both getting Apex’s in October then and as an “Honorary Texan” from my time stationed there will share a Big Texas smile with ya. Cheers!

I stick to the lowest-slung truck possible. The Denali trim level on the 2021 Canyon is pretty close to the ground - just as low as the 2wd. Same with the Sierra. We stay off of the “4wd, high ground clearance” trails. That, and we don’t need a ladder to get in and out. No AT4’s for us. I’ve only used the 4wd once on the Canyon - when I inadvertently pulled onto a loose sand “road” and shifted to 4wd as a precaution. I think I used it once on snowy roads in Chicago without the trailer. Same with the Sierra. I would have chosen 2wd as well - but the Canyon was in the tail end of COVID when I was lucky to find anything. With the Denali’s - people have to do a double-take to even realize it’s a diesel. We can sneak in and out of campgrounds without waking up the neighbors. Granted, you definitely know you have a 7,000 trailer behind you with the “smaller”, lighter trucks, but maneuverability and parking are pretty high up on our priority list. The Canyon was easy to park and get through narrow streets. (We like NOLA) It was also a lot lower than the Sierra - which makes for a lot better being able to see where the corners of the truck are. I can’t imagine backing up without the cameras all around - seeing over the hood or bed of a full size pickup is an act of faith.

Perhaps an understatement! OTT Sales would not want to see me coming. 🤣 if I was to purchase a new Oliver, my build would have NO factory options! No batteries or tray, no inverter, solar wiring to roof but no panels. No A/C or fan, just the two 14x14” cutouts. No rooftop cameras or old-tech Wi-Fi booster. No microwave, just the opening, and no tank gauges. No TV, no radio, no interior wall mounted displays (all we need are Bluetooth apps) not a thermostat, nothing at all. 🤠 No soft furnace ducting, must be fixed hard ducting. No silicone caulk on anything anywhere! Of course we would not be able to negotiate such a bare Oliver, but it would be a great canvas to paint my own design and build. Got to go back to 16” wheels, D52 axles and the full 5-leaf Alcan Spring package and LT vs ST tires. I wonder the price tag on such an Oliver? It’s actually what I’ve done the hard way in a used Oliver, using fiberglass fill patching 100 holes, literally. 🙃

Welcome to the club. There are a lot of options I'd skip if I knew then what I know now. I am happy to offer my thoughts if you want to discuss your option choices.

Thanks, appreciate the info and context!

Yeah, 100% on our short term radar, just not today 🙂 There's more than you would think, between National Parks (Big Bend for instance, you can't "boondock" but there are a number of park-interior primitive campsites you can bring a trailer to), state parks on the gulf shore, and National Wildlide Refuges! The difference in public lands was definelty something that took getting used to, moving down here though. Our primary immediate use is going to be gulf shore off grid camping. The awning is pretty mind-bogglingly expensive at 5k though, and the x23 has 400 on the roof. Back of napkin says a 400w folder + the roof solar should be sufficient. Per dc to dc, that's good to hear --- I like that it's off the shelf with the new trim (it's not really a new model, imho.) Long way of saying I think we're going to opt out of the awning for our build. Thank you for the info and thoughts!

Thanks for the welcome all. We're really excited 🙂 Mike & Carol --- any tips vis a vis the Tacoma?

Congratulations and welcome to the family. It's exciting!

Welcome! I initially towed with at Tacoma as well. It didn’t take long to upgrade to a half ton. Will be interested in how it goes for you. Mike

And you almost camouflaged the Brinkley in your 3rd pic! Mossey

Spent a lot of time at this refuge while collecting field data on the Northern Leopard Frog for a National contaminants study with the USFWS. Now that I’m retired from the Service, a return to camp there is on my bucket list!

Maxwell National Wildlife Refuge. Maxwell, NM. Just off I-25 but very quiet. Pit toilets and 5 (free) campsites. Only ones here

One more moab pic. Kane Creek Road. Last full moon.