Leaderboard

The recent posts about adding lights to the rear and tongue reminded me to share this. There had also been a few previous posts about the bright exterior lights, and some mentioned adding dimmers. We've added these dimmers to ours. From what I've read, Oliver has changed the way the exterior lights are switched over the years so this modification may not work for everyone. On our 2022 LE2, the four Porch lights on both sides of the trailer are on a single switch, as are the lower Courtesy lights. The Porch lights are quite bright, which can be very annoying, especially to neighbors on the streetside. Though we can just use the awning light if we need to keep the streetside dark, sometimes we like less intense lighting. These dimmers replace the rockers in the original control panel. It's an easy modification, but requires enlarging the rocker hole slightly. We also added a dimmer to the Main Cabin lights. (Note: the blue light ring in the picture doesn't indicate whether the light is on/off, it's always on or off depending on a separate setting.) Steve

Caulk used Adhesive remover used Plastic razor blades from O’Reilly Razor blade holder also from O’Reilly Bill

I have been wanting to do this modification for a few years now and actually bought the hatch a few years ago but just got around to installing it before this recent trip. I never have liked the shower caddy/shelf in the bathroom vanity. I’ve had it out at least 2 times to work on the faucet and to replace the sink drainpipe. I needed to tighten the nuts on the bolts that go through the propane enclosure and are accessible only under the sink so I took the opportunity to install the marine hatch. Picture of caddy removed and cleaned up using ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic razor blades. I never have cared for the way the factory drills holes in the gelcoat. Every factory screw hole I have seen has cracked gelcoat around it. Vanity front taped up and template taped in place. I actually lowered it after this picture was taken. The door doesn’t detach from the flange, and even if it did you couldn’t reassemble it after the flange was mounted. This and the small space that you are working in makes the hatch and flange difficult to position accurately. It helps to make the opening just large enough for the flange to fit into, then you can modify the hole if needed to square up the hatch. I used a coping saw to cut the fiberglass and a sanding drum in a drill to shape the hole. I cut the opening a little small at first but it was easy to open up a bit using the sanding drum and a sanding block. I marked and drilled pilot holes, then screw-sized holes, then chamfered the screw holes with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. I also cleaned up the factory holes using my chamfer bit. You’ll want to locate and drill 2 holes, one on each vertical side, then temporarily mount the hatch so that you can better mark the remaining holes. Holes not shown in this picture. I placed one layer of butyl tape all around the flange then an additional layer of butyl along the vertical sides. I did this because the front of the vanity has a slight curve and I didn’t want to pull the vertical sides down to meet the vanity surface. I used 10-24 x 1inch stainless steel oval head machine screws, #12 stainless steel flat washers (because that what I had), and 10-24 Stainless steel Nylock nuts to secure the flange to the vanity. Picture after the butyl is through oozing and trimmed flush with the flange. You can’t trim the butyl behind the hinge so be careful how you apply it to the back of the flange on the hinge side. I suggest keeping it back away from the edge 1/16” and hopefully it will extrude evenly as you tighten the machine screws. I’ll talk more about this area later. Taped off for caulking with ASI 335 sealant You can’t caulk the edge behind the hinge. I wasn’t pleased with the way the butyl looked behind the hinge… …So I used a paint stirring stick that had dried latex paint on it (this sealed the end grain of the stick) to “tool” the butyl behind the hinge. This produced a finish that I was pleased with Picture of open hatch. I have yet to relocate the pump switch and light. I am thinking about putting them in a stainless steel bracket just inside the top right of the opening so that the switch can be accessed while seated. Notice the pump switch and light hanging over the p-trap. I’ve got it cable tied there for this trip. Marine hatch used. I think I ordered it off Amazon. I am very pleased with the way this modification turned out and being able to very easily access the area below the sink. I don’t intend to store anything under the sink, I just like being able to see in as many places as possible. Again, apologies to any of my High School English teachers who may be reading this. Bill

Making the popcorn now...

I installed Obeaming touch lights and been very pleased, they are dimmable to your desired level of eye comfort and ambiance. I posted the install on this forum. Here’s a few pics:

Here are my scale tickets since I have started using CAT scales. I tow with a 2019 Chevrolet Silverado LTX 2500HD with 6.6L Duramax and 6 Speed Allison automatic transmission. ARE bed topper with full bed. Both front seats occupied. Full width RockStar Commercial Tow Flap. Full diesel tank 36 gallons. Sticker FRT GAWR 5200 Sticker RR GAWR 6200 Sticker GVWR 10,000 Owners Manual Max trailer 13,000 Owners Manual GCWR 25,300 Just started using a Sherline Tongue Weight Scale Loaded tongue weight at the beginning of the current trip is 580 lbs. Full fresh water tank (30 gallons of water weigh 250 lbs). Empty black and gray tanks. Full 30 lb propane tanks (About 110 lbs). Full refrigerator. No tongue basket. No bumper attachments. Four AGM batteries. No solar. Here’s a spreadsheet that I scratched out this morning “CAT” is a weight off the CAT scale ticket. “CAL’C” is a calculated weight “Sticker” is a weight off of the vehicle placard. “Owners Manual” is a weight out of the owners manual for my truck. I tow without a weight distribution hitch. Trailer brake gain usually set on 4, bump up to 5 or 6 if raining and/or hilly. Front 60, rear 75, trailer 50 cold tire pressures. Tow/haul, exhaust braking, Cruise control on. Original brakes, I’ve installed new Timken or NTN bearings at 12k and 24k, and will install new bearings at about 36k. Just over 30,000 miles total on the trailer. Trailer stays in heated and air conditioned shop when at home. I am very pleased with how the truck and trailer operate together at these weights. I’ve posted this information for those who are interested in how other folks tow. Bill

O2R - Thank you so much for giving us the conclusion of your Service story. I am so happy that things worked out for you. I am often perplexed by the stories I hear in which what happens seems to be at the entire opposite end of the scale. I'm simply not sure what's the cause of this seemingly drastic difference between quick through responses that , "Oliver went above and beyond on this one" and the owners that report complete dissatisfaction with virtually anything done by anyone working at Oliver. Perhaps your story and how you handled the situation can serve as a "road map" for others to travel. Bill

UPDATE: As you can see from my first post, we experienced the issue captured in the video late on Saturday the 30th. After reading the information provided above, and doing a little more research, I called and opened a ticket using the forum link to the ticketing system, called Oliver customer support and left a voicemail, and lastly I sent the video in an email to support@olivertraveltrailers.com with a copy to one of the leadership team. Sunday AM: I received an email from Oliver asking for the model and serial number of the Truma, which I promptly sent. Monday AM (8:30ish) : I called customer support at Oliver and I barely got out my name when the tech said, "oh yes, you were the first topic at our team meeting this morning. You should expect a call from someone on the leadership team to help resolve this." An hour or so later, sure enough, I received a call, and the ball was rolling. A full explanation of the plan to get us back up and running with hot water was laid out. (Note: My Aquago was not in the range of serial numbers that were part of the recall, but the plan we were executing assumed that it was. More on that later.) I was in Pennsylvania the day the issue occurred. I was in Buffalo NY headed to Rochester, when I received the first call on Monday. Oliver gave me several options for where I could have the burner swapped out, and we chose an RV facility in Rochester since we planned to be there for 3 days. Oliver next day aired the part, worked with the RV store to schedule the repair, and the work was completed Wednesday, and we were on our way - WITH hot water. 🙂 For the record, my AquaGo is under warranty. Whether or not the issue is the same one addressed with the recall, I don't know. I will let Oliver and Truma work that out, but it appears to be a different issue. Bottom line, Oliver went above and beyond on this one. There was one individual who was in the driver's seat at Oliver, and she will have a thank-you card and a small gift on the way as soon as we get to a stop where we can make that happen. We are grateful for the response and count ourselves lucky to be part of the Oliver family. Bob P.S. It probably helped to provide a video of a fireball on the side of the trailer. 🙂 Nevertheless, good job, Oliver.

The price for your dimmer switches at about $20 is sure a BUNCH cheaper than what I paid for my single dimmer switch some 10 years ago. And, the finished product looks great too. Bill

@Townesw The hatch looks very nice and you will love the easy access. Thank you for the step by step procedure. It will help someone else in the future! Mossey

Regardless of usage, there is a wattage spec listed on electrical appliances sold in the USA. Pretty sure it's code, so that electricians know how to size wiring and fuses/breakers. Also, part of RV solar planning is to add up the wattage of each appliance and to estimate how many hours per day of usage, and so forth. We use the induction cooktop that @Ollie-Haus made us aware of in an older post. My wife likes it so much that after she was using at home too often, I purchased a 2nd one for the Oliver only (I like our Oliver always ready to go, fully equipped). It's rated at 1800W which is listed on the Amazon title and on the product label underneath. Wattage spec should also be listed in product literature and user manuals. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1 I do not get this statement either, "the stove itself." How can an appliance possibly know what it's wired to, or know whether you're on inverter or shore power? We run our induction cooktop often at the full #10 setting, for example to boil water for pasta. Everything always on our Victron Multiplus II, no problem. 😎

Interesting. That corresponds pretty well with our WeighSafe hitch, which usually reports a tongue weight around 550# with a full loadout, including full fresh water and empty grey/black tanks. Our closet floor is mostly tools.

Ha! Ha! You beat me to it again. Well this should be interesting. Mike Sokol is doing his own testing, and doing a number of different tests. He just got 2 old Battleborn's to test them.

Nathan - I will mention this to Matt Duncan and to Jason Walmsley (who handles most if not all things tech related for Oliver and used to work directly for Matt). However, I can tell you that Matt is very well versed in computer tech. He and I did discuss this very possibility when we initially sat down in his old office and were looking for the specific computers and memory stick backups. An additional "problem" at this point will be to identify which computers and which memory sticks might have been involved with these graphics. I'll let you know what Matt and/or Jason have to say on the subject. Bill p.s. Yes, I am a moderator. All of the Moderators of the Forum are NOT employees of Oliver Travel Trailers, and are not compensated in any way by Oliver for the work we do here on the Forum (i.e. we are volunteers). Yes, since most of the moderators have been around Oliver (for more years than we might like to admit), we tend to know a bit of history and the former and current employees that were/are involved with both the travel trailers and other parts of the overall Oliver businesses. Perhaps this is good news and bad news. Good news is that we tend to know "stuff". Bad news is that we also know that Oliver is a family owned business that does not have very much (if any) "fat". That is - they have a very lean staff with most of the staff holding down multiple jobs. Therefore, I'm guessing that it may take a fair amount of time to even get a start on the project you'd like to do.

Scott called me the other day about an unrelated matter but while we were on the phone I asked him about the vinyl decals. He stated that he was not exactly sure about the cost to the customer for the front Big “O” and the two rear sides. There was a time that they cut all their own vinyl lettering. Because of this we could usually get whatever we wanted as far as colors etc. As most of you probably already know, the person that did all the computer work for the graphics and ran the vinyl cutting machine has left and there is nobody there now that knows how to operate any of that system. For that reason, they are farming out all their graphic work. That is probably why the price is so high. It’s been several months since I was at the factory, but at that time back in the service department there was a huge pigeon hole type cabinet with the “O” graphics stacked inside in all different combinations of colors. There were the big ones and a smaller version that was only six inches across. I don’t know if that was new old stock. I would doubt Scott knew they were even back there. In additional news, for those of you that had met Jason Ballentine the service manager know now that he has left Oliver and they have a new service manager. His name is Randall Mayberry. They have a new lady (I don't recall her name) that is working behind the desk as you enter the showroom outer office. One of the former salesmen, Jason/Justin Lindsey/Lindley (you will note that I’m terrible with names) has returned and they now have a staff of three full time sales personnel.