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The 960 watt Girard awning is $8224.15, but that is a 5% saving over its MRSP of $8657.00. I'd get two just to have enough.

Everything that runs on 12 volt still works just like it always did. To achieve this, the 48 volt system has been infused with magic, elves and possibly Elvis.

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek.

Doing a search I only found this thread which sputtered out .. One of the few things I’m disappointed in with the Oliver is the outdoor shower (the other being the Bluetooth speaker). It’s annoying to use and is limited as just a basic shower head. On our last big trip, out in Arizona at a carwash giving the car and Ollie a bath I had an Airstream couple ahead of me with a neat and useful mod. They had replaced the outside shower with an plug in style unit they used to wash the trailer. So you could plug in (via water hose quick connects or the like) a garden hose, a shower head or whatever. Also our storage lot doesn’t have water. I can bring 10g of pressurized on my truck, but a full 30+ gallon tank onboard would be useful. If I could just get to the water … I’d like to modify the Oliver as little as possible. Ideally not drilling holes Wouldn’t mind getting rid of the old shower and putting a new one in the same spot, probably the best solution. Has to have quick disconnects and can add new attachments, so the fittings should be standard Would like some kind of high end or marine solution ideally One option is this Empire RV faucet from eTrailer Cons, would need a case to be set back far enough. Also kind of typical plastic solution. But works otherwise Another solution I like better is this - could have separate hot/cold or just cold. I don’t see needing a hot line. Cons, it’s just ABS plastic. No temp connection, but which might be OK Now for marine application are washdown connections Here’s one, nice stainless with easy twist. No temp control but I can attach my favorite garden hose quick connects Again needs a deeply recessed box to contain this. Any other ideas?

Got a quote from Alcan, here's some answers to questions I had So Oliver is being cautious and going 4 leaf

I only deploy my regular Girard awning when I am at the trailer on calm days. I certainly wouldn’t leave the awning deployed all day while the trailer is unattended, especially at the cost of the solar awning. I see this as the biggest limitation to the usefulness of the solar awning.

I believe twist on wire nuts are not approved for RVs because vibrations can loosen them.

That is correct...

It's still not hot enough for A/C performance testing. But it was 95F late Sunday afternoon in Phoenix. The Furrion Chill cube cooled the interior in minutes, the huge fan with sweep on, flowing air the full length of the Oliver. When we got in bed the system had geared down on its own, now consuming only 18A DC, 18Ah per hour overnight. The original Dometic Penguin II running at full consumed 150A! The campsite had hook-ups but I don't plug in unless we need to. The fan was running so slowly it had a light hum and a random swishing sound. We turn the sweep motion off when laying in bed so the air blows forward. With the TV on, the Chill Cube cannot be heard at all! 😎 During the night, I'm not a white noise person, preferring silence, but the light random sound it makes is truly perfect to sleep by! The thermostat first set at 68, 69, 70. later 72, The interior went from 82 to 74 in 40 min. There is a thermostat issue. Regardless of set temp, the cabin temp based on Ruuvi readings kept decreasing far below the set temp. I woke at 7 AM and cabin temp was a very COLD 61F! Reached for the remote, powered it down and rolled over. Of course it cools down at night in the desert, so little need for cooling. The A/C system seems to have a low point where it sits and keeps cooling slightly, the compressor never turning off. It seems many of these new A/C models have thermostat issues. Not too worried on this. First time in our lives that an RV A/C unit was enjoyable to run overnight, and by day, on inverter using so little power!

Of course, one on each side so you can generate power from sunup to sundown. Expensive power. I can't imagine that such a device will be trouble free over the years but maybe I am not up to date on the film technology.

Loctite??? Just Kidding!!!😂

I had high hopes that the Chill Cube would do a better job than most with temp control since it had the "follow me" thermostat feature built into the remote. The crazy low wattage draw of these invertor compressor units makes it a lot easier to put up with minor issues like this though!

Same here... and ditto for Craig & Mikes fix. B~Out

Truma did not do any work. All the work was preformed by Oliver guys. And they were able to have one fixed and up and running in under 30 minutes.

I believe the electrical code is that live feeds have to terminate in a grounded electrical box. I think just a simple twist connector cap is fine, as long as it’s in a box and not flapping in the breeze. RV/automotive code might be different, if there is one.

Yes...those flex lanes are great. Went that route about a month ago :)

I agree, also don't like the idea of hot wires laying around, capped off or not. Having a cold snap tonight (24º) got to run a heater out there so it might be a day or so before I can take the wires out from the panel though. Just finished winterizing. The fuse is front and center once you open the door from the outside very easy to get to, also a piece of cake to empty what little water there is in the WH. Way easier than dealing with the Suburban IMO.

Where's Ollie? She's back home after a couple trips down to the Phoenix Valley lately. I used to hate the drive, especially towing, the section of I-17 that drops 2000 ft through Black Canyon City AZ. Steep and winding, narrow lanes, rough pothole ridden, sections without shoulders, always construction present, and when there's an accident, you're waiting long without an alternate. When northbound, climbing elevation, note the sign to turn off your A/C when it's hot out. With a 10% climb, there were always cars overheated, parked on the shoulder. After 2+ years of major construction, the first 40 miles heading north on I-17 is now the greatest road is Arizona. It is now a 6-lane divided highway the whole way with new Flex Lanes in the steepest section. The lanes are now full Interstate width with oversized shoulders all the way. I used to often take an extra half hour to drive up the back route, Hwy 89 through Yarnell. Today, we flew up the mountain, towing 65+ MPH the hole way home! It's the main route from Phoenix to Prescott, the Verde Valley, Sedona, up to I-40 at Flagstaff and of course the Grand Canyon. Check it out on your next trip to Arizona! 😎

Me too... I'm also interested in the price of that solar awning as well.

Yes, I hate to see 120VAC wires hot, just capped off with a wire nut and/or tape. I want them pulled (difficult in this case) or disconnected at the source. If the HWH fuse is accessible, then you're good. I've relocated most of the "under-bed" fuses OTT installs. 😎

Note about phantom voltage drops. As mentioned it can be due to active/passive devices in the signal path, but it can also be resistance/impedance in the circuit. Case in point, the composting fan my two month old Oliver stopped working. The odd thing was my DVM measured around 3VDC at the terminal - not enough to run the computer case style fan - indicating a circuit issue. Jerry at support gave me a great troubleshooting list, the first of course was to check the fuse, which is fine. I didn’t suspect that as it was getting a low voltage, it’s an inline glass fuse and was unbroken. But I put the fuse back and voila - it works. There must have been a poor connection in the fuse housing which gave enough resistance for a voltage droop, so reseating it fixed the problem. So general advice is to check every leg of the power rail, a little corrosion or a loose connection can/will introduce resistance.

Yeah Rob, my head is surely not thinking clearly this week! Yes, all you need is low-amperage wiring since power is provided by LP. Given the Suburban had a 120VAC circuit breaker, I’d still want a 12VDC fuse in the panel for your new HWH! Also pull the original 120VAC wiring from the breaker panel, at least pull the black/hot wire off the breaker, so the other end at the HWH is dead. You’ll have a 120VAC breaker available if you need to add a new circuit for another 120VAC appliance! 😎 Great looking installation! Update us later on your experiences with the Fogatti tankless HWH!

Thanks @Geronimo John and @jd1923 for the additional comments. Clearly I have not provided adequate information regarding the install. No the Fogatti WH only uses 12 VDC to run the internal circuits, sensors etc and which also then feeds back to its remote control which is a nifty device itself. The power to heat water is only through propane and not AC and certainly not DC voltage. The wires themselves coming from the Fogatti are probably 16 AWG or 18 AWG at best and they are intended to connect to the same wires that fed the Suburban sensors circuit board, nothing more. Attaching a few photos below to illustrate (hopefully) the layout and wiring situation. I will be crimping those connections later on today rather than the wire nuts but used those just to make sure everything is working ok before proceeding to final installation. In the first photo the black and red wires represent those coming from the WH and as you can see I have red to red (+) and black to blue & green/yellow (- & GND). The new WH works fine this way oddly enough. The next photo is the same just pulled back further to illustrate the entire enchilada a bit better Remote below with two blue wires (non polarity) from the same wiring harness of the new WH inside the basement where the new WH is installed using 1/4 - 20 SS screws, lock nuts and fender washers rather than the pitiful pop rivets initially used for the Suburban WH. Note this IS a two person job. 1/4-20 stainless steel screws viewed from the outside though the bottom row I used self tapping Big Timber screws into a block behind the FG wall. There simply is not access to tighten nuts and screws on the bottom row. Everybody knows what a locking nut looks like but just in case someone else tries this method thought might be helpful.

I was thinking “new DC run” and GJ laid out the circuit logic perfectly! See what fuse and wire gauge Fogatti specs in their documentation. I would locate a spare or empty position in the 12VDC fuse panel to do this right. The last thing you want is more inline fuses under beds! This is a major appliance. Source wiring should start at the main +/- buses with the positive running through the fuse panel. 😎

I always thought it was not a great sign when a vendor would spend an entire week at a rally having to fix their product.

I'm interested in weather or not they kept the John Deer Truma water heater. Would be nice not to require a certified tech work work on the dang thing. Tankless uses more water anyways... so I've heard via comparisons.

They dropped a video this morning, mainly just advertising splash FWIW my opinion so far Color scheme: Not my taste. The black trim will take more sun damage and takes away from the elegance of the design language. It's a hard black and white which is way to constrasty, if they could have gone with a softer black it would work but I think the windows set it to a hard black. Also black shows up scratches and dirt like nobody's business. That black AC will absorb heat and age faster Fully opening window: From a 2026 owner; a step backwards. I can't tell you how easy and convenient it is to crack the bedside window at night. The sliders would be more challenging I think, and this one, you'd have to get your hand around the window shade and push it somehow, assuming the levers are open. I really don't understand why people want a fully opening window, it doesn't offer anything new 48V system Been in a lot of discussions of this because the Cybertruck went 48V. My engineering opinion; it doesn't offer you anything. The only technical improvements are thinner battery cables and better power/torque delivery for motors. But they will still have to supply 12V as not every device will support 24V, and for the 12V cig ports. So it'll be a stacked/split system, mostly likely they'll just also have a series 24v connection to the battery, and split 12V rails for those. I could see the power jacks benefiting, assuming a 48V system. Oh maybe the inverter too - that would be more efficient. Who knows, maybe 48V lets them get to a 4k inverter which honestly would be nice (Xantrex doesn't have one AFAIK though) Offgrid tires Look cool, but probably lower efficiency, harder to replace (?), and since they don't provide motor traction of limited use. Cost: Probably $$$, I kind of doubt they'll have all those parts in black from the supplier

Everybody note... The new Oliver ApeX-23 is designed and advertised to be an off-GRID trailer NOT an off-ROAD trailer.

Thanks Mike! Yavapai Campground at the Granite Mountain Wilderness Area is a nice spot to visit Prescott. No hairy roads like driving up Thumb Butte Rd last week. It's paved all the way in. There are 21 FS campsites, and only $9/night with the old-fart pass! Sorry @John Dorrer, I'm being the Prescott "Resident Chamber of Commerce" person again! 🤣 Though where is everybody else? There should be a Where's Ollie post, or two, every day of the year! We're in site 16, which is one of two FF sites. It was easy for us to grab this spot, since the park reopened on April 1 and we got there at 9AM (just 20 min from home). Nice to camp for the week and only use a 1/4 tank of diesel with these prices today! Second pic is a view of Granite Mountain from the entry road. Adam and I hiked to the top 10 years ago and I hope to do it one more time before it get's too late for me! 😂

And - ALL of the expense in doing this work came out of the pocket of Oliver - not Truma. Bill