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I have been following along without anything to add, but I now have a few thoughts. The fresh water overflow discharge port is, in the words of Google: So it looks like a 2 piece fitting that requires access to the inside and outside of the hull to install, service or remove. So the next step requires a modification to the floor below the bottom drawer below the sink. This picture of the area below the sink without the drawers in place. The blue square surrounds a cutout in the rear wall that OTT provided for access to the refrigerator 120V outlet. The red square surrounds a cutout in the floor that I made with a router, using the walls as a guide. This access was needed for a prior plumbing modification. It may also provide access to the freshwater overflow port that would be needed for the installation, removal or repair. Both of the access ports are normally covered with a thin piece of plywood. My MOP for sanitizing the freshwater tank in hull 193, begins by mixing several ounce of chorine or a quart of hydrogen peroxide in a 5 gallon water jug and using the boondocking port to pump it into the freshwater tank. I then fill the tank using a hose at the freshwater fill bib. I am generally in the area of the Ollie while doing the sanitation job, but I do not monitor the amount of water going in, I just wait for it to overflow. And I do use a pressure regulator set to 40 lbs. whenever connecting a hose to the freshwater tank or city water bibs. Mossey

From the looks of those long tanks, and knowing that the level sensors are on the ends, just a few degrees off lengthwise level could result in significant tank level inaccuracies! Good picture! @Hokieman

That's a Through-hull marine fitting. Oliver probably added the insect screen. I looked at mine with a mirror and it doesn't have that black stuff. Me thinks it's clogged! I'd try poking a piano wire through the mesh while slowly adding water to the tank to see if it flushes out. Catch it in a white container to see what it is.

Here’s another photo that shows how it is installed. Replacing that screen is now on my task list. Thanks to @Wayfinder for bringing the screen situation to our attention, I would probably have never noticed it. And thanks to @Rivernerd for alerting us to a potential problem. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/11495-fresh-water-tank-overflow-condition/#comment-126984

TPMS are nice but the batteries do die and then it one more thing to replace. I have them on my tow vehicle and premptively replaced them because they are pain when they die. Been there with a different vehicle. Like you, a good, frequent visual check plus putting a pressure gage on once in awhile is my prefered method. Like Russell explained, having 4 pressures in your face all the time can be an unwelcome mental distraction for many of us.

Agreed, a screen insert makes sense to keep insects out. Filter material, why? It does look like a filter, but there's no need to filter waste water! The finer the screen or filter material, the quicker it will muck up, and eventually be closed shut. Thanks for the picture! I suggested the scope and now I need to get one! The screen/mesh looks somewhat clogged up. Who knows what has collected above it in your 5 years, our 11 years? Hull #1291 has at most 4 years of use! Could be one of those hole-saw plugs from the tank installation stuck along the path. It irks me how lazy "professional installers" can be. With the right tool it would take a few seconds to retrieve the plugs and a blast of compressed air to quickly clean out the new tank. Fill the tank more slowly? Filling up at Maverick on our last trip, It took over 10 minutes to fill the tank (28 gal on the counter) and the hose had a very good flow rate. Because it's so slow, I now start filling the fresh tank and dump tanks while it's taking its time filling. For me the 1/2" PEX plus the OEM restrictor makes the incoming water flow slow enough. I'll be checking and likely removing this "filter" instead. On my long list is also removing the Fresh and City Water line restrictors (they restrict flow vs. pressure). Everybody in every RV forever has run the hose until the tank overflows. Camping is supposed to be fun! 🤣 Is the "plastic flanged bulkhead fitting" removable, so serviceable? The screen is relatively close to the bottom, so there's hope. Given @Rivernerd's experience, I would certainly try to remove that fitting and see if the screen/filter is serviceable. If not, I would take long auger drill bit and turn it by hand slowly into the screen, trying to grab as much of it as possible for removal. Try to remove as much as possible with the bit, wider bits and other tools. Then use the scope again to see if it's clear all the way up and down into the tank. Finally, take a piece of stainless steel screening material, shape it into a cone and insert it at the very bottom. This screen insert could be removed later easily with a needle-nose pliers. It will be interesting to find out the end result here. I imagine a lot of us will be looking up that overflow tube soon enough!

I have been making my way east towards the rally, and visiting a few lakeside and riverside campgrounds. West Rolling Hills campground on Milford Lake, view from my campsite in Loop A West Rolling Hills is an Army Corp of Engineers cg located alongside Milford Lake, Milford SP, Milford Wildlife Area, Fish Hatchery, Nature Center.... https://www.recreation.gov/camping/campgrounds/233608 Milford Lake is huge (I think over 15,000 acres) fed by the Republican River. Lots of fishermen, and I saw photo evidence from the camp host of a massive 54 pound catfish he caught the day I arrived. I didn't use any services there, but will attest to the friendliness of the host and other campers, and the clean conditions everywhere around the lake. A beautiful campsite. Sunset from the Prairie Meadow campground in Elk City State Park Elk City SP is west of Independence Kansas. This was a late arrival and early departure for me, but I enjoyed this sunset when I went walking after setting up. The campground overlooks Elk City Lake. There were lots of birds, including Barred Owls and Screech Owls near the campsite! The Current River is lined with vegetation, but walking trails provide direct access from some campsites in Big Spring cg Big Spring Campground in Ozark National Wild & Scenic River is also very pleasant. I've camped there a couple of times. It's a bit of a thrill (rollercoaster) driving to the campground along a narrow winding rolling road, but the campground and the river are beautiful. They have separate buildings for hot and cold showers, and offer other amenities. sunset from my campsite in Eureka Campground, Kuttawa KY Eureka Campground in Kuttawa KY is along the Cumberland River, overlooking The Land Between The Lakes. This is another ACOE campground, and another great location for fishing. The sites are mostly spacious with picnic tables and separate fish-cleaning tables at the site, fire pits and direct lake access from the campsite. There are tons of things to see and do near Land Between the Lakes. I plan to come back to this area. Oh! And about that 54 pound fish.... here's the camp host Tony with his catch at West Rolling Hills cg in Junction City KS

Well I just crawled under there to get a better understanding of the drain port. Ours is in the form of a plastic flanged bulkhead fitting that appears to extend about four inches up through the bottom hull just off the aft corner of the fridge compartment. It’s ID is about 3/4 inch and upon shining a light up inside, there is a fine mesh screen at the upper end and it appears to have a black fiberish filter material on top of the screen. There’s board dividing the fridge compartment from the galley drawer space, so no access to the drain from the outside fridge access panel. My guess is the mesh and what appears to be a filter material are there to prevent anything from getting into the freshwater tank through the drain. But this also would restrict the flow of water during the filling process. Sounds like there’s a few questions for Oliver service to better understand the principle of design and of course what to do if this filter/mesh becomes clogged over time.

@John and Jodi I wasn't able to get quite the same angle, but here are my photos. I have the same material, but it's not twisted like yours. .... why do I struggle with photo uploads? I will try to fix these.... a few minutes.

High pressure could cause enough turbulence to splash water up to the overflow tube creating gurgling and an air lock. An air lock can effectively block the vent tube. It's not uncommon, even with large industrial tanks! It's also possible that floating debris blocked the overflow tube as the tank filled, then it floated away afterwards. This is intermittent and it's happened with hole-saw plugs that were left in the tank during fabrication. I've always instinctively filled the freshwater tank very slowly, just a crack of the valve. The overflow tube is no match for my hose pressure and volume, and the tank is not designed to be pressurized.

I removed the access panel on the dinette seat closest to the shower and looked down and right.

Can you describe how you accessed that area for the photo? If I can, I will send a photo of my Spring 2022.... to see if it looks different.

Edit: @Steve and MA was quicker on the keyboard than me but I will leave additional thoughts below. I've always monitored the fresh overflow and fill rate closely when filling and flushing the fresh tank. I make sure my fill rate is very slow as the overflow is nowhere near large enough to accommodate a high fill rate. As soon as water starts sputtering out the overflow I shut the supply off. If I want to flush the system for and extended period, I reduce the flow to a fast trickle and monitor while working around the trailer. The holding tanks are not pressure rated, and even at a relatively low supply pressure such as 25psi, a fill rate say 10% faster than the overflow rate would slowly "inflate" the holding tank. It all depends on the overflow capacity to keep up the the fill rate. A strong stream at the overflow in my mind indicates a pressurized system and needs to be shut down immediately. Related to jd's comment above, I just happened to purchase a smart phone borescope earlier this morning on Amazon for other reasons, but realize it will be perfect for inspecting various concealed and hard to reach spaces on the Oliver. This may be just the tool for @Rivernerd to purchase for his evaluation, and keep onboard for future inspection needs. https://a.co/d/00rWQwkn

Nice design actually for maintenance, should be easy to remove and clean out compared to rigid pipe

Yes. New from the factory in 2022.

Finished off the SiO2C6 coating! Took one 250 ml bottle exactly for two coats over the whole trailer, including two Seafoam storage boxes (tops), two awnings and various metal bits like the doorstep. Except for the solar panel, mainly I want to get that bug catcher front edge but will do the top too. But I bought the 30' new trailer kit which has two bottles. What to do with the unopened second bottle? Once a bottle is opened it needs to be used within a month or so Option One: Inside I'm considering doing the inside too, at least strategic parts of it. The bathroom is a prime candidate to make shower cleanup easy. The countertops too, they're a thick gelcoat I believe which picks up fine scratches. I'll do a small test and see how well that works out. The floor rounded edges along the aisle is a prime candidate, those take a lot of wear. I've been waxing them but that doesn't really do a lot honestly. Checking with an AI opinion, Gemini is saying 'yes you can but generally not recommended'. Main reason being the solvent fumes (I have 3M cartridge chemical respirators and we have the ceiling fan), and basically its overkill, which is reasonable. Presently I'm using DuraGloss two step - base marine wax with a quick clean touch up, which works OK but not like a silicon coat. Option Two: Refresh coat Other option is to save the bottle (storage temp is important) until the next year or year and a half, and apply a refresh top coat. I think I'll do this Procedure (notes to my future self) Use that unused bottle of Glidecoat nano wash (deep chemical wash) Check the surface, rough spots (previous coating glitches) and scratches Use leftover SONAX EX-04-06 with foam pad, 4500 RPM, three passes crosshatch Two towel wipe off 3'x3' sections Alcohol/GC Surface wipe two towel Apply coating in a cross hatch pattern, let flash 30-60 seconds Two towel leveling (wipe off cross hatch, second towel in a circular method) Also do the missed parts Underbody (why not I've got plenty to use up?) Solar Truma plastic covers Front door, door step aluminum and other exposed aluminum Rear bumper metal

Can we assume that you purchased this Ollie "new"? I've never seen that kind of installation. Bill

Whenever we’re in Branson we visit the Keeter Center. Great food, nice gift shop. Students wait tables as a part of their tuition and it is always a good experience. Mike

If you want a real dining experience in southern Missouri eat at https://www.keetercenter.edu/Dine/Dining in Branson. Camp at https://mostateparks.com/park/table-rock-state-park

The coldest we have camped is 15 degrees a few nights in a row. We opened the drive side basement hatch/lid in the dinning seat to allow warm air into this unheated area and ran a dehumitifier. Each day the temps were above freezing. In these conditions our Oliver preformed very well. We have never spent time below freezing 24/7 for running days. If we were to camp in below freezing day and night for an extend time as we are currently setup, we would to blow out the water lines, empty gray, black and fresh water tanks and use water jugs for our water source. Maybe 30+ years ago, I would have considered this a good time. Several Oliver owners have modified the weak areas of heating and or insolation i.e basement/outside shower, batteries and the bathroom trailer nose. Solutions I have read about in this forum are adding insolation, running heat duct down the drivers side basement from heating system and pulling the outside shower inside the hull. I believe Oliver's double hull gives you the best change to set up for true winter camping. I'm thinking there isn't such a thing as a full fuctioning true winter camping trailer ready to go off the showroom floor.

It was nice meeting the two of you and pups Oliver & Winston this week while we were picking up Hull 1703 in Hohenwald.

I've greatly enjoyed time at Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site SP and campground. The state park is a real gem, with hiking trails, petroglyphs and pictographs, a beautiful creek (fishing permitted with license), flora and fauna -- a green oasis along the western slope of the beautiful Big Horn Mountains. Archaeological digs have revealed over 10,000 years of human occupation at this site -- a rare find in North America. There are dry camping sites, electrical sites, reservable sites and some that are strictly FF. If you decide to come here, be sure that you are: (1) looking at the correct campground, as there are others called 'Medicine Lodge' that are part of the Forest -- and those might be fine, but this one is within walking distance to most of the park's public areas; (2) carefully studying the route and the road conditions before you venture away from wifi/cell reception, because google and apple maps will suggest a road that is a washboard dirt road -- and there is even a sign that suggests it's the way to Hyattville -- but there is a better path. You can read about the park here: https://wyoparks.wyo.gov/index.php/places-to-go/medicine-lodge I used the "Lower Campground" -- sites 1 through 9, but there are very nice sites scattered throughout the park, all of them along sections of Medicine Lodge Creek. Lower Campground, site #7 is in the middle -- other sites are around the perimeter. Some of the petroglyphs view of Medicine Lodge Creek in the park If you're coming from the west, take 31 from Manderson. If you're coming from the east (south) take Lower Nowood Road (NOT the Ten Sleep Hyattville Road) and STAY on Lower Nowood Road until you reach the junction with 31 (Do NOT follow the green highway sign that points to the unpaved washboard road to Hyattville). Go east on 31 from Lower Nowood and turn on Cold Springs Road, then to County Road 52 (unpaved) following signs to the park.

Connor Battlefield SP is a beautiful little park that is fully surrounded within an oxbow of the Tongue River. It is a lovely green oasis with decent sites featuring grilles and tables (no hookups), and the park has restrooms and other amenities. It's First Come First Served (FF) but each day there were a few sites open. I recommend site #4 because it's tucked in a corner with a broad expanse of grass up to the river's edge. There are lots of shady Cottonwood trees. A little gem! If you are looking for a meal on the town, the Tongue River Brewery offers an incredible pizza! https://wyoparks.wyo.gov/index.php/places-to-go/connor-battlefield