ScubaRx

This would be correct.

If you're traveling in the vicinity of Tupelo any time soon, I can show you how to run a new wire for that light or if you have an afternoon we'll just fix it.

John and Debbi, Tali and I are very excited for you two as you set out on a journey that will soon encompass some of the best days of your lives. Good luck and safe travels.

John and Debbi, Tali and I are very excited for you two as you set out on a journey that will soon encompass some of the best days of your lives. Good luck and safe travels.

As a born child of the South I found this amusing... A lawyer from the Big City comes to Mississippi to hunt ducks. One day he shoots a duck and it falls in a farmer's field. He figures no one will ever see, so he ignores the "No Trespassing" sign and sneaks over the fence to get the duck. But before he can collect it an old farmer rides up on his mule and asks him what he thinks he's doing. He says he's retrieving his duck. "Well, now," says the farmer. "This is my land and that sign plainly says you may not trespass. I think that is MY duck!" "Listen, you stupid, ugly, inbred hick" says the lawyer, "I'm a rich and famous trial lawyer from the Big City and if you don't let me have that duck I'll sue you and wind up owning everything you have!" "Whoa, now young feller," says the farmer. "We don't go bothering the courts down here over something small like that. We settle it with the Mississippi three kick rule." "What's that?" asks the lawyer. "Well, we take turns kicking each other three times. The man what don't give up, wins." The lawyer thinks the old guy looks pretty feeble and figures he can easily take him. "OK, old timer. You're on. Who gets the first three kicks?" "I do," says the farmer "'cuz it's my land." He gets down from his mule and kicks the lawyer right in the...uh...right there. The lawyer folds up on the ground and with his second kick the farmer removes the lawyer's nose and upper lip. The third kick ruins his right kidney. The lawyer struggles to his feet, barely able to move. "You ready for my turn, you old cretin?" he croaks. "Oh, no need, " says the farmer. "I give up. You can have the duck."

That sucker will come down????? We've always just both lay with our heads under it and look up at the screen. I'll be a.....

Here again, this may not help but I found it on the Escape forum: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9/9500e-awning-retracted-manually-23853.html#post433760

John, I don't know if they would still stock the materials they formerly used. Steve Parsons (now deceased), who was their fiberglass guru and mold maker found a rogue piece of what appears to be the same stuff as cutting board material, about 5/8" thick and fabricated it for me. It is held in place by a couple of pieces of very thin SS channel that have been glued and caulked in place.

Bryan, I'm very sorry to hear you're having this problem. Due to the extreme age of our Hull #050, we have a Fiamma Manual Awning. It has legs and a crank. It will blow up in a brisk wind and bend itself over the top of the trailer, usually breaking something. If not deployed properly, it will collapse in a good rain and bend the legs. Other than that it has served us well. I wish I could offer more than moral support. Do you believe and concur with the Dometic Auth Svc location you took the trailer to? $1000 seems like a lot of money for a motor. What does a brand new awning cost?

This is probably not exactly what you had in mind, but...

I designed the divider and our raised beds with storage underneath for our 2013 build of Hull #050, The Outlaw Oliver. Oliver offered them as options for a while but when they decided to drop any custom work done on the assembly line, these two items fell off the options list. I originally intended the divider to protect the bedding from any cooking splatters and to be able to recline against it, while partially sitting up to read. But, I didn't feel like it was sturdy enough to support that position so I recline on the other end of the bed although we sleep with our heads in the middle, feet to the rear. It does function well in the anti-splatter mode. As far as the cook tops, we specified a North-South orientation. Having come from our 2008 Elite, I felt like it was a better usage of the available counter space. Then some customers wanted theirs turned East-West, claiming it gave them more available counter space!?!? So Oliver switched orientations. I gather from what you are saying that they have now returned to the way we have ours turned. The downside of that orientation is that you have to reach across the front burner to utilize the back burner.

You're correct, of course. We've spent so few nights in the past 15 years with shore power, I tend to forget it's available.

Where do you propose you'll get the electricity to run that?

Come evenings or if I want to read during the day, I throw a pillow in the corner against the rear wall and recline all I want. I'm not sure which fiberglass trailer you're referring to that has a reclining chair. There was a Casita model that had two swiveling captain's chairs at the dinette (they did not recline) but none others that I've every seen.

Well, you’re way ahead of me. This is the current state of disrepair in my basement. About to start rerouting plumbing. o

Wow! That’s a great job. Still working on mine. Did you apply the the reflectex with spray adhesive?

I don't disagree with you, but as I said, "Personally..."

Mike, as you've evidently discovered, the drain pipe is indeed only a friction attachment. I agree that no harm was done with adding a little epoxy. My guess that in all the excitement of hitting the deer and probably then slamming on the brakes, the weight of the gray water inside the tank was enough to cause a slight shifting of the gray tank forward thereby dislodging the drain pipe from the top of the tank. The tanks are not strapped down. If they were it would be incredibly difficult to remove one out the rear bumper. Sorry this all happened, buddy. But, as Mighty Mouse used to say, it seems you've "...got the situation well in hand..."

Your first big decision will be your tow vehicle (TV) and it will determine whether you have to make a choice between the Elite and the Elite II. Ideally, the plan should be to choose the trailer model you want and then buy a TV that will serve as the best. There have been literally thousands of words written about this, both here and on other forums. I have gone through five different TV's in the past 15 years towing both an Elite and then an Elite II. Personally, for a comfortable towing experience, I would consider the very minimum TV for the Elite to have a towing capacity of at least 7500 pounds, preferably more. For the Elite II, 10,000 pounds or greater, diesel rather than gas and with any TV the highest payload I could get. If you make the correct TV choice now, on the front end, you will save yourself enough money to fuel anything you buy for the next decade. The cost of a wrong choice now will easily add up to equal another fully optioned Oliver EII over the same time period in TV replacement costs. Choose wisely.

I agree about the difficulty of reaching up inside the bumper to attach the hose. Many of us have discovered that it’s much easier to simply leave the dump hose connected to the outlet all the time. If you want you can attach a cap to the other end in case there’s any leakage.

There have been postings on how to open *.heic files. I just usually skip over them.

We were boondocking deep in the red rock country south of Sedona several years ago with some other Oliver owners. The morning after the first night, I got up and hit the switch to turn on our Suburban water heater. It went through its regular startup, I heard the igniter clicking, then the whoosh of the burner lighting, it running for a maybe 15-20 seconds and then shutting down. It did this the obligatory 3 times before giving up and not trying again until I re-initiated the startup procedure. Somewhere during all this, I heard our friend's water heater doing exactly the same thing. I went outside and found him pondering why both of them seemed to be having the exact same problem. We discussed this for a minute or two then remembered "something" that was done the night before. (This all happened several years ago and my memory fails me as to WHY this "something" was done...) But, my friend had licked the tip of his forefinger and wiped it across the gas orifice on both of our water heaters. Deciding that action was the only common denominator, each of us removed the orifice from our heaters and carefully ran a tiny copper wire through it. Nothing visible came out but after replacing the orifice's, each heater started right up and ran normally. Admittedly, I did go around the world to say that it literally takes "nothing" to interrupt the proper flow of gas.

As this area is caulked and well protected from moisture, I believe you are correct. I've never seen a complaint about this area on the forum anytime in the last 15 years.

The insulation to which you refer was used in all the first 49 trailers. They bought it in gigantic rolls. Robert Partee described it at the time as the same kind of stuff used to sew up insulated coats or vests.

I do not know when the changeover was made, but I bought a half sheet of the new stuff at the factory last week to use in my renovation.