ScubaRx

As anyone who's every owned or driven a Corvette knows, fiberglass squeaks. I don't have the problem that you're talking about here but if I did it would be a simple fix to take the foot off the bottom of the jack, remove the nuts from the frame bolts, knock them back up into the the trailer and pull the jack out through the opening under the bed. Take a round file and enlarge the hole where it is rubbing on the jack. Reinstall the jack and re-caulk the hole. Done - maybe an hour?

I've been thinking about that same issue for going on 15 years now. I finally just straightened the hose and just never twist it while removing and replacing it. It works fine for me.

There are four bolts associated with mounting the jacks. Two attach the mounting bracket to the jack tube. The other two attach the bracket to the trailer frame. Make sure all the are tightened down well. I believe all the bolts are carriage style so the nuts are easily tightened with no worries about the bolt spinning in the hole. The bracket to frame are accessible from underneath the trailer. The other two are accessed from under the bed.

In our 2019 foray to Alaska, we found a campground that had a wash bay that you could use for free. In Mississippi the mosquitoes will eat me alive every evening. During our four month trip to Alaska, I didn't get bitten a single time. They were everywhere and lit on me often but apparently out of respect or perhaps fear of catching something from me they just moved on.

Yours is located under the starboard side bed near the water pump. It consists of a short length of hose that you can drop over into a container of water. Just like in the current models you will have to reverse your valves, although yours will be two 3-way valves instead of four on/off valves. Turn on the water pump and you’re putting water in the fresh tank.

I’m unfamiliar with the terms “overkill” and “tow vehicle” when used in the same sentence. How can one have too much capability? Personally, I need over 3000 pounds of cargo capacity. Could I travel with less? Probably, but I absolutely wouldn’t be able to fix your trailer with a set of broken springs on the side of the road.

There is a slight difference in generator charging your former Casita and your present Oliver. The Oliver has a built in Electrical Management System (EMS) that most likely your Casita did not have. If you don't have a neutral bonding plug in your generator the EMS will prevent the generator from connecting to the electrical system in your trailer, but for the time being it's OK to bypass the EMS.

It can be a 2-5/16” ball only if your Bulldog hitch has been upgraded from 2”.

If you find yourself in need of auto or tire service in Whitehorse, I recommend Integra tire.

It looks like the wire ties are keeping it from being able to come all the way out.

Wherever you are, their system is overloaded. Is there a 50 amp connection as well as the 30 amp? If you have the cord you can use the 50 amp to get more volts. There are probably fewer people using them, unless the site is full of big rigs.

Maybe one of these days.

Nothing will convert very safely... Oliver's gonna tell you that, from their standpoint, you should not use anything other than their 1-1/2" receiver.

Congrats on your upcoming new Elite II. You will love it. Plus, you already own a adequate tow vehicle.

Apparently there's nothing worse than "have certain nuts that can loosen over time."

I always top off the Outlaw Oliver whenever I stop for diesel in the Silverado. Crap, now I wonder where all that unleaded gasoline has been going...

There’s also the never lube hubs.

I guess we never worry about our bathroom vent popping open as many times I’ll leave it open with the rear windows open a bit to let air flow through while traveling down the road.

Made me wanna throw up watching all that. Approx 1 mile/Kw, Over an hour to get enough juice to go another 100 plus miles, having to unhook in most cases. I'll stick with our big boy diesel. I'm not really concerned about the price of fuel, I planned for this lifestyle for nearly 20 years and calculated fuel at $5.00/gal into those plans. Load up....

Sounds like the Slusher's.

The castle nut should never be tight enough to not be able to be removed by hand. But, I believe a 1-3/16” will work.

Our truck keeps up with it and tells me when it is due.

Have you noticed that when the tow/haul mode is engaged, the last gauge changes from an amp meter to transmission temperature?

Take a look at this article. Substitute “trailer”every time it says “home.” https://www.thedrive.com/

After futzing around with the leaking high marker light for about three years, I finally dug all the caulking out from around the lens. After bedding it in butyl tape I re-caulked it and thought everything was fine. This was all done in a campground in Idaho several years ago. The next rain proved that it was not fine and upon closer examination, I discovered water was still coming around a marker light adjacent to the lens. Rather than trying to get it out and caulk around it, I just covered the inside of the fixture with caulk. Five years and not a drop since. I would not fool with trying to remove one of the markers lights unless I was going to have to replace it.