Townesw

I have been finding small bits of aluminum on the rear bunks right under the windows. I pulled the rear side window shades off and found 2 of the 6 screws on each side were stripped out. Rear window was ok but found 2 more stripped out at the dinette window. So out of 22 window shade screws 6 were stripped out. Not loose. Stripped out. I replaced them with the next size up, #10 x 1 inch SS pan head sheet metal screws. Had to enlarge the hole in the clips using a step bit. If you have to replace some of yours, hand tighten them only using an old-timey hand operated screwdriver.

Thanks Mark for your response. It looks like a casting to me. No machine marks and rounded edges. Granular structure at the break. Certainly not a machined steel bolt which would be stronger. Thanks again.

MontanaOliver, Does that broken latch look like steel? Or a cast material?

No one has had their shades replaced?

Found this service manual on the internet. We could try to get it added to the Oliver University but I suspect that since it is a “service” manual it won’t be added. Any way there is some real good info here for those who DIY. https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/documents/Freedom-WM-Service-Manual.pdf See page 13. See also page 17, Note 7 Do a Google search for Carefree of Colorado R001657.

Found this service manual on the internet https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/documents/Freedom-WM-Service-Manual.pdf See page 13. See also page 17, Note 7 Do a Google search for Carefree of Colorado R001657.

BorninPalatka, Will that broken off piece stick to a magnet? If it doesn’t stick to a magnet it is probably pot metal. My plunger attracts a magnet. I am attempting to determine if they made a change to the latch. Thanks.

Well, the plunger on mine attracts a magnet so it must not be pot metal. The break in your plunger looks like it is a cast material. Will that broken off piece stick to a magnet?

After looking at that photo of the failure and looking at my latch plunger I believe that it is made out of “pot metal”. And instead of having 0.25 in^2 of cross sectional area to shear there is only about 0.125 in^2 of cross sectional area to shear. I will be looking for a latch made of steel to replace mine.

Add one of these things to the stuff you keep in your trailer. Drop something into the “matrix” between the hulls and you will see how handy it is.

I have not had that problem. I would like to see a clear picture of that failure. When I push my battery tray in I pull the latch up rather than push it in hard and let the latch snap up and then down. When my battery tray is all the way in and latched there is about 1/8 inch slop in the fit. I stick a folded up piece of cardboard (until I find something more expensive) in there to prevent any movement when on the road. That much weight moving back and forth is bound to damage something.

An older one

Has anyone received replacement window shades as mentioned in this TSB? http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/tsb-white-window-shades-night-shade-fabric/ If so, did they send you all of the blinds or just enough to replace your defective shades. The reason I ask is that the response I got from the company sounded like they will be sending all 4.

Got this one stuck in my head

Remove the panel where the filter is located. Remove the filter I think these are the tubes Steve (ScubaRx) is referring to

Anybody else having trouble pulling up private messages today? Can anyone else pull up page 2 of the A/C Drain thread under General Discussion? Or is it just me....

Rumline, It looks like that one has an E Lock on the door and solar. Did you get those options also?

Hello Ken, Didn’t go inside so I wouldn’t have seen yours. We were able to pick our OEII up 2 weeks before our scheduled date earlier this year. It was ready and we live 2.5 hours from the factory so we picked it up early. We went to see it somewhere around mid production and got to see it on the production line. It was hard to see it but not take it home.

I like the fittings. But one came off in my hand while setting up in the dark one evening. And most Allen wrench sets don’t have the 1/2 inch size. I tightened mine up and put a tool in my box to tighten them up should it happen again. I’d rather have a tool and not need it than need it and not have it.

Anyone see theirs? Sixteen behind the factory. Three outside the sales office (300, 302, 333, not pictured). One more Elite just rolled out on the way to the sales office I think.

These fittings can come off. When they do you will need to carefully remove the strainer washer and use a 1/2 inch hex key (Allen wrench) to reinstall. It only needs to be snugged up because there is a rubber washer on the back side. A bolt with a 1/2 inch head and 2 jam nuts will also work. Might be wise to check them when convenient rather than replace them when inconvenient.

I wonder if you might remove the cartridge and see if there is a small piece of something keeping it from sealing. When you reassemble snug that brass ring up a little tighter. I haven’t had any experience with the ceramic cartridges but I have fixed a leaky Delta ball and socket type faucet this way.

Would you be better off using a small burr in a Dremel to drill or enlarge holes? Would this reduce the tendency to chip the gel coat?

Well those walls do have a plywood core. I looked at the cutout for the speaker in the closet per KountryKamper’s suggestion. You can actually see the plywood all the way around the cutout for the closet door frame. The total thickness of this wall is “real close” to 1/2 inch.