Townesw

Would someone with a new trailer with new porch lights (or porch lights without gaskets) please post a picture? Bill

Darrell, thanks for the feedback. That sail switch is a “prove” switch. It proves that the combustion chamber blower is working before allowing the gas valve to open and the igniter to spark. It is a delicate switch. A strong spiderweb or an insect nest might have kept it from working or going unused for a while might have let it stick open. Once you free it up it should be ok for the season unless it is defective. Bill

I got a text from Darrell. He has heat now. He doesn’t have access to the forum where he is.

Clamp a Vise-Grip on the middle rib of that aluminum extrusion where you want the window to stop. Use needle nose Vise-Grips and slip a short piece of rubber tubing on each jaw. Bill

Darrell, Remove the furnace outside cover. Have your wife start the furnace inside while you watch the LED on the control board. Count the number of flashes between the 3 second pauses. Look on the table below to determine the fault. If it’s the “Limit Switch/Airflow Problem” fault, CAREFULLY pull the sail switch out until you see the small bright metal sail. Use a pencil and GENTLY work that sail in and out and listen for the switch to click. Replace the sail switch and try to relight the furnace. Watch the LED again. Report back on what happens. Bill

Darrell, sent you a PM. Bill

U075908, I haven’t looked but I suspect the tanks would leave a rust ring. The paint on the bottom ring of the tank will take a beating through normal handling. The tanks are covered by the propane tank cover but the bottom is open to road spray. The tanks sit in a shallow pan. You could put a thin rubber sheet between the bottom of the tanks and the pan but that may promote rusting of the pan. I have seen plastic rings that slip on the tank ring that might prevent rust stains. Check this out: https://mopeka.com/product/mopeka-tank-halo/ Bill

If you know your black water valve is leaking push down on the valve blade under the front dinette seat. It will most likely stop the leak until you dump again. Bill

Stainless steel Banjo TC-331 just snug. Not tight. Bill

I can’t remember if this has been brought up before but here goes: From first hand experience, the best practice is to connect one capped waste hose to the drain pipe in the bumper and leave it connected. Both waste valves are a good distance from the cap on the end of the drain pipe in the bumper. If black or grey water leaks past the waste valves you will know it when you pull the hose out of the bumper instead of when you uncap the drain pipe. You can then put one of these on the end of the hose by raising the capped end up, then add your extra hose downstream of the twist on valve. This will give you a way to release what has leaked past the waste valve without creating a mess. Even if you try to add the extra hose on after detecting fluid in the first hose, you risk creating a mess when you eventually have to lower the end of the hose to place it on the sewer connection on the ground. I now carry a twist on valve for this reason. Bill

Ok, I’ve changed this: But my username still shows up in the list of users online at the bottom of the forum page?

That’s all well and good, but again, this is the only forum that I know of that will allow an unregistered guest to view any information about a registered member.

I think I will put a large hose clamp on that drain pipe up against that grommet, close but not tight up against it, to prevent the grommet from completely backing out. Bill

Mainiac, I gather from your comment that you are also seeing the notifications every time you open the forum. The notification feature must have recently been fixed or modified because it has been sporadic until just recently. Bill

Why are guests on this forum able to view members’ profiles? This is the only forum that I am on that permits this practice. Bill

Thanks for posting this John. Just checked mine. It was in place but had backed out a little. It is a lot easier to push it back into place before it completely slips out of the hole. I will keep my special “Grommet Reinsertion Tool” (see picture below) in the basement and will use it to periodically check the grommet while on the road. Bill

Rideandfly, Thanks for the detailed write up. I knew if I put it off long enough you would get yours done first.? I have the parts on hand and have cleaned the tank out well. I don’t have any more excuses to not get it done now. Moderators: this is one of those write ups that really should be made a “sticky” (not stinky). Another Bill

The other Bill: What was the name of the product that you used? (Another) Bill

I’ll take one. Email sent. Bill

What is the adhesive/sealant that is used around everything on our Olivers? Is it one product or multiple products? Bill

You can’t beat Micro-Air Inc.’s / Matteo’s Service. I am impressed. Bill

2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD Z71 tailgate clears. Bill

Rear jack mounting bolt?

The label on that device says “For A/C without heat strip option”. If you have a heat strip in your A/C you probably don’t have one of those. My A/C has a heat strip and the control board is built in according to the manual. Are you sure yours doesn’t have a heat strip also? Can you post a picture of your A/C data plate and a picture of your thermostat? Bill

Have someone push in on your black tank drain handle while you are pushing down on the black tank valve blade plunger under the forward dinette seat. Mine is not seating well. It sounds like yours isn’t either. Bill