Townesw

Ok. Quit posting to this thread. I can’t delete all of the notifications. I’m being notified to death. Death by Notification. I hope notifications aren’t taxed. (not Martha)

I am unable to delete notifications. Is anyone else unable to delete notifications? Bill

Here is his FS post http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/2017-oliver-legacy-elite-2-twin-bed-model-like-new-259-63500/#post-137306 By the way, welcome to the forum. Bill

The sail switch just detects movement of air by the fan. It shouldn’t be related to running out of propane. What code was the flashing LED producing when you opened the door? Bill

I believe if I were you I would locate a knowledgeable and reputable RV repair person and demonstrate to them what is happening and let them troubleshoot the situation and make the repair. Maybe if you gave your general location someone on this forum could recommend a good local RV repair service. Bill

I think that vent located inside the kitchen cabinet is an air admittance valve. It only lets air into the kitchen drain pipe so that the vacuum created by water flowing through the pipe doesn’t suck the water out of the kitchen p-trap. The water in the p-trap is what keeps the odor from the grey tank out of the cabin.

See if the wire from your battery is attached to the BAT lug on the breaker. I think your picture is upside down and it is throwing me a curve. Bill

The jacks are electric not hydraulic and they only operate on 12VDC. Could the tripping of the breaker coincide with the use of the jacks? That breaker is a “thermally responsive Bi-metallic blade” type circuit breaker. It could be that you are performing a sequence of events that heats that breaker up to the point it trips and this could be aggravated by it being a weak breaker. Regarding your front jack: make sure the dimple in the tube on the bottom of the jack is riding in the groove on the extension tube. Bill

Do you have an LE or LEII and what year is it? Bill

Just to be clear is this the breaker under the street side bunk that trips when you unplug from shore power?

We also have a crack in the lower right corner of the trim frame. We have the Contoure RV-950S. Looks like it is a different unit from what topgun2 has so it might mount differently.

What you said plus: large and small Channellocks and Cresent wrenches, torque wrench, electric impact gun with deep impact sockets for truck and trailer wheel nuts, wire stripper/terminal clamp, Fluke non contact thermometer, Fluke AC voltage detector, dead blow hammer for hitch, ratcheting pipe cutter, 1/2 inch hex key, Teflon tape, snap ring pliers and extra cone for Andersen hitch, hand cleaner wipes, blue shop paper towels, cable ties, extra tire air pressure gauge, 3/8 inch drive ratchet extension, lots of small spare stuff. Going to add a close quarters PEX ring crimp tool: http://pexcrimper.com/index.html Reason for 1/2 inch hex key: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/check-your-hose-attachment-fittings/#post-134357 Reason for 3/8 inch drive extension: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/jack-crank-extension/#post-127187 I put this coupler on my grease guns: Bill

Would someone with a new trailer with new porch lights (or porch lights without gaskets) please post a picture? Bill

Darrell, thanks for the feedback. That sail switch is a “prove” switch. It proves that the combustion chamber blower is working before allowing the gas valve to open and the igniter to spark. It is a delicate switch. A strong spiderweb or an insect nest might have kept it from working or going unused for a while might have let it stick open. Once you free it up it should be ok for the season unless it is defective. Bill

I got a text from Darrell. He has heat now. He doesn’t have access to the forum where he is.

Clamp a Vise-Grip on the middle rib of that aluminum extrusion where you want the window to stop. Use needle nose Vise-Grips and slip a short piece of rubber tubing on each jaw. Bill

Darrell, Remove the furnace outside cover. Have your wife start the furnace inside while you watch the LED on the control board. Count the number of flashes between the 3 second pauses. Look on the table below to determine the fault. If it’s the “Limit Switch/Airflow Problem” fault, CAREFULLY pull the sail switch out until you see the small bright metal sail. Use a pencil and GENTLY work that sail in and out and listen for the switch to click. Replace the sail switch and try to relight the furnace. Watch the LED again. Report back on what happens. Bill

Darrell, sent you a PM. Bill

U075908, I haven’t looked but I suspect the tanks would leave a rust ring. The paint on the bottom ring of the tank will take a beating through normal handling. The tanks are covered by the propane tank cover but the bottom is open to road spray. The tanks sit in a shallow pan. You could put a thin rubber sheet between the bottom of the tanks and the pan but that may promote rusting of the pan. I have seen plastic rings that slip on the tank ring that might prevent rust stains. Check this out: https://mopeka.com/product/mopeka-tank-halo/ Bill

If you know your black water valve is leaking push down on the valve blade under the front dinette seat. It will most likely stop the leak until you dump again. Bill

Stainless steel Banjo TC-331 just snug. Not tight. Bill

I can’t remember if this has been brought up before but here goes: From first hand experience, the best practice is to connect one capped waste hose to the drain pipe in the bumper and leave it connected. Both waste valves are a good distance from the cap on the end of the drain pipe in the bumper. If black or grey water leaks past the waste valves you will know it when you pull the hose out of the bumper instead of when you uncap the drain pipe. You can then put one of these on the end of the hose by raising the capped end up, then add your extra hose downstream of the twist on valve. This will give you a way to release what has leaked past the waste valve without creating a mess. Even if you try to add the extra hose on after detecting fluid in the first hose, you risk creating a mess when you eventually have to lower the end of the hose to place it on the sewer connection on the ground. I now carry a twist on valve for this reason. Bill

Ok, I’ve changed this: But my username still shows up in the list of users online at the bottom of the forum page?

That’s all well and good, but again, this is the only forum that I know of that will allow an unregistered guest to view any information about a registered member.

I think I will put a large hose clamp on that drain pipe up against that grommet, close but not tight up against it, to prevent the grommet from completely backing out. Bill