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Townesw

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Everything posted by Townesw

  1. Ok I’ll take a stab at it. What you are calling cold air lines are the condensate drain lines I think. I think all of our roof top units are installed and run without the air distribution box being installed on the inside of the cabin. The return air filter is held by the air distribution box. The roof top units were run while (dust producing) operations were performed in the cabin. The unfiltered air was drawn through the evaporator coil where the dust was deposited on the coil fins. Condensate forms on the evaporator coil and drips into the condensate collection receptacles on each side of the roof top unit. The water/dust mixture flows through the condensate drain lines at low velocity. The dust settles out and remains in the lines. There is white residue in my condensate drain lines also. I don’t like it either. Again, this is MY THEORY as to how that white residue got there. Bill
  2. Back to the OPs original question. If I were in the same situation and I couldn’t get the ductwork clean I think I would replace the ductwork to the cabin louvers and seal off the hard to remove duct to the bathroom. Use a small fan to direct heat to the bathroom or a ceramic heater if plugged into 120VAC. I know it’s not ideal but it might get you through until another reason comes up where you need to open up the hard to access areas. Bill
  3. When the bathroom door and window are closed the bathroom exhaust fan pulls air through the open heat louvers in the main cabin and out of the open heat louver in the bath. I think this is beneficial in that it keeps air moving through that duct when the heat is not being used. Otherwise, moisture laden air might remain in that heat duct along with dust and produce mold. The exhaust fan also pulls cold air from the main cabin into the bathroom when the AC is running and the bath door is closed. For these reasons and to reduce the strain on the exhaust fan I like to leave the louvers fully open. The exhaust fan is also pulling air from somewhere in the hull through the gaps in the corners of the closed cabinet door above the toilet. I like that air is being moved through the hull. A return vent high in the bathroom wall might prevent this air movement. Regarding return air when the heat is running the best solution would be to prop the bathroom door open a little. Bill
  4. Rideandfly Bill, Thanks for the info on the kit you got. I have a pair of just the seals on order. I have watched that Valterra video several times especially the part about the seals. Please post pictures when you take yours apart. What is this you speak of: “finishing one project before you start another”? Interesting concept. Might have to try it sometime. ? Another Bill
  5. Well I have already hijacked my own thread so I will continue this valve discussion here anyway. Steve, this is the first thing I looked at when I first noticed the problem. The handle on the black drain on the cable outside wasn’t in as far as the handle on the grey drain so the cable hasn’t slipped at that set screw. I wonder if the seal is rolled or distorted at the bottom of the gate valve. Before I start taking the valve apart I want to have new seals on hand. Are these the seals that I need? https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1003-9VP-Bladex-Valve-Hardware/dp/B00303XGRI Bill
  6. Is the Barker Auto Drain the same one Oliver is offering as a option in place of the manual valve on the bathroom drains?
  7. Rideandfly (Bill) our black tank drain valve is not closing well either. It will close if I push down on the gate while Martha is pushing in on the cable. I have put 8 ounces of Camco valve lube and water in the tank twice and slowly worked the valve but it still won’t close. KountryKamper suggested I put enough Ethylene Glycol in the drain to completely saturate the seal and let it set a few days.
  8. Follow up: Received 4 new shades yesterday from AutoMotion.
  9. I didn’t take pictures this time. In and out quick. Ready to get home and see my girls. Sorry we missed you roguebooks. We did see Dream Catcher and it’s owners.
  10. At the factory for a few hours this morning. Anyone want a picture of their Oliver if parked outside?
  11. Steve, I know there are several things different about your Oliver, but on my wife’s Oliver (#313) the handles stick out way too far when pulled to close the door. Who makes the electric valves? Is there a way to open the valves if you lose power?
  12. Anybody done a mod where you can close the basement door while a drain valve handle is pulled? I know it’s best to only drain the tanks when there is water in them so I’m not wanting to open the valve and leave it open. I want to be able to open a valve and then close the basement door when it is raining cats and dogs and the water is pouring off the roof directly onto the open basement door. Bill
  13. What is that mounted up high on the back of the Outlaw Oliver? Some kind of anti-tailgater device?
  14. It was #301. From Ohio. Don’t know their forum name. Staying somewhere on the Schoodic Peninsula.
  15. Turns out it isn’t Walter Jenkins. The owners saw our post on the Facebook Group and said it was them.
  16. Yes. Pretty sure that was it.
  17. We think it was Walter Jenkins. Saw a picture of his outfit on the Facebook group and that looked like the rig we saw.
  18. So, if not enough air flow and the vents are all open could it be a plugged return filter?
  19. Don’t think it was him. I’ve been PMing Maniac. He said by his count he thinks there are 10-12 Olivers in ME this week.
  20. Today, headed east on US Highway 1, just outside Ellsworth ME eastern city limits. Burgundy and gray stripes. Black TV. I was driving the white Chevrolet truck, waving with both hands, not pulling a trailer. Does anyone here belong to it?
  21. I’ve been checking the threaded knob under the license plate that holds the spare tire cover on. I have found it loosens after a day on the road. I am going to add a Nyloc nut to keep it from backing off. Edit: Just found a post by DavePhelps September of last year that addresses this. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/spare-tire-cover/#post-72664
  22. Who carries an Xtend & Climb ladder? Is the 750P (8.5 ft) tall enough?
  23. Mainiac, we do have the black tank flush fitting but it is my understanding that it just allows you to put water in the black tank, same as if just pouring water in through the toilet valve. It doesn’t have a spray function to dislodge, as you put it, the “pyramid of doom”. Edited to add: Mainiac, just reread your post. The black tank flush fitting is on the street side, outside, under where the front dinette seat would be. The curb side rear fitting is for filling the fresh tank and winterizing. Edited to add: The black tank flush fitting has a check valve and a fixed nozzle with several holes in it that spray water in several directions. Look up Valterra No Fuss Flush fitting.
  24. The ice cubes in the black tank sounds like a good idea, but I think I would be careful about doing that. I’m sitting here looking at a cold bottle of beer right now and there are water droplets on it. Now if you put ice in your black tank and the humidity is moderately high you will have water droplets form on the outside of your black tank and the water will end up in your bilge (you sailors may correct me on the use of the term, if incorrect). I have a thing I wash my tractor radiator out with. I stuck that thing down through the open valve in my toilet and blew the, well, you get the idea. Just be sure to stick it all the way in. Don’t ask me how I know. Edited to add: Submitted by Bill. Not Martha. (She wanted me to be clear on that point).
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