Townesw

My trailer is sitting dead level on a concrete shop floor and the distance from inside the top of the coupler to the floor is 21.25 +/- 0.1 inches. I have hull 313.

Those tanks are long in length, narrow in width and short in height and the sensors are at the rear ends. You can be easily fooled by the readings. You will become accustomed to what you are putting in them and how often you need to dump and the display will mean nothing. Have fun. If grey water is not coming up through the shower drain you are good. Just be sure to close the valve beside the head before you move.

Is your trailer level when you are seeing the 100% reading or is the front elevated? The grey tank level sensor is located where the yellow mark is in the following picture. It is near the rear. Even if you only have a little water in your grey tank and the front is elevated the sensor could be seeing 100%.

Coy, Does it look like Section D will be reopened by May 15?

One of ours was out of place when we picked our trailer up. I saw it and asked them to fix it before we left. It took two fellows to do it. I don’t know how they got it back in place, but they did and used a bead of caulk to secure it. Since you only see one screw it must be one of the strips behind the front axle. The screw you see is probably on the curb side and is actually securing the gas line. Are your tanks empty? If not, try emptying them and see if that helps. You might try pulling on the strip (should make it smaller in cross section) while stuffing it in from the side. Stick your finger in between the cross member and bottom hull and see if you can feel adhesive residue. If no trace of adhesive, you might try a little soapy water as a lubricant.

Last fall we parked in a really steep campsite with the tongue high off the ground. I had purchased a pair of Camco screw type stabilizer jacks on the way to this campsite. I rigged them as shown in the photos. I only snugged them up against the frame so as to stabilize the camper, not to take weight off of the front jack. With these stabilizers in place and the rear jacks extended the trailer was very stable for the 4 days we were at that campsite. I will continue to use these as shown, probably not for “one night stands” but for extended stays in one campsite. I would not use these as jack stands, only stabilizers. They are very light but work well in this application.

Bauhausluv, I will make you a pair and PM you when it is ready. It will be a while as I have other projects in-process right now. Thanks, Bill

Ours stays open when parked and it isn’t raining. I also communicate with my wife through the bathroom window when I am dumping the black tank. When the tank is empty I close the dump valve and have her add more water to the tank and then dump again.

Russell, I have found a few places like you describe, one or 2 on top, each smaller than a dinner plate and a few small places in the curved areas down low next to the frame. Bill

Noise from the inverter or converter? If converter read this thread: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/noise-from-progressive-dynamics-converter/#post-136225

Steve, Tried to PM you but my PMer still isn’t working. A friend of mine in Kingsport TN is interested in a fiberglass camper and would like to see different brands. Could he come down and see some campers and if so, what day would be best? Bill

Very nice pictures. Thanks for posting them. Those sites back up to a low stone wall that runs beside Shoal Creek in CG1. The Other Other Bill

We just spent 4 nights in Campground 1 at David Crockett State Park in Lawrenceburg, TN. Campground 1 is older, but Campground 2 has just been redone and it is real nice. We couldn’t get a site in CG 2 but we did drive through and look at it. No sewer hookups, but the sites were so level it wouldn’t be a big deal to just pull to the dump station and then go back to your site if you didn’t want to use a tote. https://tnstateparks.com/parks/campground/david-crockett Thirty-two miles (about 45 minutes) from Hohenwald and much nicer than (the local CG) in Hohenwald. Good BBQ place in Lawrenceburg: https://ricksbbq.com/ More good BBQ and a great meat market near Summertown TN: https://g.co/kgs/3V9hEZ Bill

Ok. Quit posting to this thread. I can’t delete all of the notifications. I’m being notified to death. Death by Notification. I hope notifications aren’t taxed. (not Martha)

I am unable to delete notifications. Is anyone else unable to delete notifications? Bill

Here is his FS post http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/2017-oliver-legacy-elite-2-twin-bed-model-like-new-259-63500/#post-137306 By the way, welcome to the forum. Bill

The sail switch just detects movement of air by the fan. It shouldn’t be related to running out of propane. What code was the flashing LED producing when you opened the door? Bill

I believe if I were you I would locate a knowledgeable and reputable RV repair person and demonstrate to them what is happening and let them troubleshoot the situation and make the repair. Maybe if you gave your general location someone on this forum could recommend a good local RV repair service. Bill

I think that vent located inside the kitchen cabinet is an air admittance valve. It only lets air into the kitchen drain pipe so that the vacuum created by water flowing through the pipe doesn’t suck the water out of the kitchen p-trap. The water in the p-trap is what keeps the odor from the grey tank out of the cabin.

See if the wire from your battery is attached to the BAT lug on the breaker. I think your picture is upside down and it is throwing me a curve. Bill

The jacks are electric not hydraulic and they only operate on 12VDC. Could the tripping of the breaker coincide with the use of the jacks? That breaker is a “thermally responsive Bi-metallic blade” type circuit breaker. It could be that you are performing a sequence of events that heats that breaker up to the point it trips and this could be aggravated by it being a weak breaker. Regarding your front jack: make sure the dimple in the tube on the bottom of the jack is riding in the groove on the extension tube. Bill

Do you have an LE or LEII and what year is it? Bill

Just to be clear is this the breaker under the street side bunk that trips when you unplug from shore power?

We also have a crack in the lower right corner of the trim frame. We have the Contoure RV-950S. Looks like it is a different unit from what topgun2 has so it might mount differently.

What you said plus: large and small Channellocks and Cresent wrenches, torque wrench, electric impact gun with deep impact sockets for truck and trailer wheel nuts, wire stripper/terminal clamp, Fluke non contact thermometer, Fluke AC voltage detector, dead blow hammer for hitch, ratcheting pipe cutter, 1/2 inch hex key, Teflon tape, snap ring pliers and extra cone for Andersen hitch, hand cleaner wipes, blue shop paper towels, cable ties, extra tire air pressure gauge, 3/8 inch drive ratchet extension, lots of small spare stuff. Going to add a close quarters PEX ring crimp tool: http://pexcrimper.com/index.html Reason for 1/2 inch hex key: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/check-your-hose-attachment-fittings/#post-134357 Reason for 3/8 inch drive extension: http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/jack-crank-extension/#post-127187 I put this coupler on my grease guns: Bill