Townesw

Mainiac, I gather from your comment that you are also seeing the notifications every time you open the forum. The notification feature must have recently been fixed or modified because it has been sporadic until just recently. Bill

Why are guests on this forum able to view members’ profiles? This is the only forum that I am on that permits this practice. Bill

Thanks for posting this John. Just checked mine. It was in place but had backed out a little. It is a lot easier to push it back into place before it completely slips out of the hole. I will keep my special “Grommet Reinsertion Tool” (see picture below) in the basement and will use it to periodically check the grommet while on the road. Bill

Rideandfly, Thanks for the detailed write up. I knew if I put it off long enough you would get yours done first.? I have the parts on hand and have cleaned the tank out well. I don’t have any more excuses to not get it done now. Moderators: this is one of those write ups that really should be made a “sticky” (not stinky). Another Bill

The other Bill: What was the name of the product that you used? (Another) Bill

I’ll take one. Email sent. Bill

What is the adhesive/sealant that is used around everything on our Olivers? Is it one product or multiple products? Bill

You can’t beat Micro-Air Inc.’s / Matteo’s Service. I am impressed. Bill

2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD Z71 tailgate clears. Bill

Rear jack mounting bolt?

The label on that device says “For A/C without heat strip option”. If you have a heat strip in your A/C you probably don’t have one of those. My A/C has a heat strip and the control board is built in according to the manual. Are you sure yours doesn’t have a heat strip also? Can you post a picture of your A/C data plate and a picture of your thermostat? Bill

Have someone push in on your black tank drain handle while you are pushing down on the black tank valve blade plunger under the forward dinette seat. Mine is not seating well. It sounds like yours isn’t either. Bill

I emailed Alex and told him that I had a 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II with “slits” in the window shade fabric. He responded saying that they were running about a month behind. I never told him how many I needed. Almost a month later to the day I received 4 new blinds. He never asked for measurements. Probably the best customer service I’ve ever had. Bill

Interesting that your 4th breaker label shows refrigerator on a 20 amp but your 4th breaker is actually a 15 amp. I’m curious. Plug something into your custom outlet and trip your number 5 breaker and see if what you plugged in goes off. That custom outlet may be on breaker 5 but if it is wired in before the GFCI I think it will still be hot when the GFCI is tripped. Also, the wires coming from the electrical panel attach to the “line” side of the GFCI. The wires feeding the other outlets attach to the “load” side of the GFCI. If not hooked up right I don’t think it will reset. Bill

You can see the Easy Start without removing the A/C top cover. You will need a ladder. The Easy Start is that beige colored box behind the copper tubing. Closer view of the Easy Start through that rectangular opening: But yes, you need to put your eyes on everything, standard equipment as well as options.

In the back attic Under the dinette Jack fuses under street side bunk. Also one more of these below the front jack. Also under street side bunk, CO /LP detector 1 amp fuse

Does this help any?

This may get me banned, but: Somebody at the rally this year told me that their small dog slept under the dinette. When the dog passed gas it set the CO/LP alarm off. Alarm kept going off until they moved the dog’s bed. Moved the dog’s bed, alarm quit going off. Respectfully submitted, Bill (certainly not Martha)

Leigh, The propane level monitor is not hooked up on any of our Olivers, I don’t think. I use a Truma Levelcheck to determine the level of liquid propane in my tanks. https://shop.truma.net/products/truma-levelcheck Bill

Here is a picture of the plug.

Ok I’ll take a stab at it. What you are calling cold air lines are the condensate drain lines I think. I think all of our roof top units are installed and run without the air distribution box being installed on the inside of the cabin. The return air filter is held by the air distribution box. The roof top units were run while (dust producing) operations were performed in the cabin. The unfiltered air was drawn through the evaporator coil where the dust was deposited on the coil fins. Condensate forms on the evaporator coil and drips into the condensate collection receptacles on each side of the roof top unit. The water/dust mixture flows through the condensate drain lines at low velocity. The dust settles out and remains in the lines. There is white residue in my condensate drain lines also. I don’t like it either. Again, this is MY THEORY as to how that white residue got there. Bill

Back to the OPs original question. If I were in the same situation and I couldn’t get the ductwork clean I think I would replace the ductwork to the cabin louvers and seal off the hard to remove duct to the bathroom. Use a small fan to direct heat to the bathroom or a ceramic heater if plugged into 120VAC. I know it’s not ideal but it might get you through until another reason comes up where you need to open up the hard to access areas. Bill

When the bathroom door and window are closed the bathroom exhaust fan pulls air through the open heat louvers in the main cabin and out of the open heat louver in the bath. I think this is beneficial in that it keeps air moving through that duct when the heat is not being used. Otherwise, moisture laden air might remain in that heat duct along with dust and produce mold. The exhaust fan also pulls cold air from the main cabin into the bathroom when the AC is running and the bath door is closed. For these reasons and to reduce the strain on the exhaust fan I like to leave the louvers fully open. The exhaust fan is also pulling air from somewhere in the hull through the gaps in the corners of the closed cabinet door above the toilet. I like that air is being moved through the hull. A return vent high in the bathroom wall might prevent this air movement. Regarding return air when the heat is running the best solution would be to prop the bathroom door open a little. Bill

Rideandfly Bill, Thanks for the info on the kit you got. I have a pair of just the seals on order. I have watched that Valterra video several times especially the part about the seals. Please post pictures when you take yours apart. What is this you speak of: “finishing one project before you start another”? Interesting concept. Might have to try it sometime. ? Another Bill

You might be able to get more warm air to the bathroom by closing the cabin louvers a little. Bill