Frank C

The fresh water tank can be seen if you lift the access hatch closest to the stove under the curbside bed. The fresh tank is the translucent low flat tank. Part of the gray water tank can also be seen there. The level sensor is a small green circuit board mounted on the end of the fresh tank facing the back end of the trailer. Just happened to have mine open for de winterizing.

Our 2019 Elite II Hull 461 has the correct short shackles on both the street and curb side suspension. Hopefully Oliver reaches out to their Elite I customers to have theirs checked to see if the short shackles were mistakenly installed. And that could be a tongue twister. She sells short suspension shackles on the street side.

Check if your truck towing package has any electronic anti-sway function. If so, the Andersen hitch instructions say to not use the Andersen hitch with any active tow vehicle trailer sway control. Here’s the section from the Andersen instructions. That may give you the info you need to convince your spouse (but you didn’t hear it from me, I don’t want to cause marital issues 😆).

I voted. I’m towing with a Ford F-250. I don’t use the Andersen. My F-250, while generically called a 3/4 ton under the accepted truck classification naming, has an actual payload rating of 3,334 lbs. so I could easily carry 1 ton of payload and still have plenty of extra left over. My truck as optioned will tow 12,600 lbs and a tongue weight rating of 1,250 lbs. so no Andersen needed for weight distribution, and the truck has electronic trailer sway control as part of the towing package so I don’t need the Andersen for anti-sway either. The dual axle Elite II has proven to be very stable when towing. I’ve never noticed the slightest problem with trailer sway.

This is the kind of half-assed work that will ruin a company reputation really quickly. You see that kind of shoddy work on houses all the time (and I’ve fixed plenty of it on my own house to correct things that the original contractor did badly), but the Oliver trailer should be more like automotive quality when it comes to the design and manufacturing of systems and mounting hardware that will be bouncing down the road. At some point as Oliver’s production volume keeps increasing, they are really going to have to redesign some of the trailer to better suit true high volume, high quality production.

Really disappointing to see that mounting problem with the inverter. I’m usually pretty impressed overall with the Oliver design and engineering but then stuff like this pops up with brand new trailers. Just two small screws holding that inverter was a failure waiting to happen.

Interesting discussion topic. There have been a few owners that have lost their awning in high winds. I’m curious as well what the failure point is when that happens. Does the bracket fail? Or the bolts holding the awning to the bracket? Does any damage occur to the Ollie fiberglass hull itself?

That translation is hilarious but at least the unit is on sale. 😆 ”On 3 levels, and on sale at the end of the exhaust pipe.”

Clean water is one of my OCD issues with camping. 🙂 Hard to believe that as kids, when out playing basketball or baseball we just drank from whatever neighborhood garden hose was available. 🙂 I put together a 3 stage system similar to the ClearSource unit, but for about half the cost. The first stage is the usual Camco bullet style filter that you see everyone using hanging on the campsite faucet. That filter is a 20 micron size filter rating, and pretty decent chemical removal. After that I use a 5 micron cartridge filter and then a 0.5 micron carbon block cartridge filter, both in Camco filter housings and mounted into a milk crate, to do additional filtering/finishing. The milk crate also is used to store all the hoses, fittings and pressure regulator when traveling. Quick connect fittings on everything to make setup and tear down very fast. The system does create a bit of a pressure drop/flow restriction, but the flow at the faucets is still good. And with the filter ratings of the 3 sequential filtration stages it pretty much removes everything as far as sediment and common chemicals.

Sounds like a great feature. But some of the old timers will weigh in..... 😆 ”Back in my day we didn’t need any of that new fangled technology. We used to push the trailer into the campsite by hand, barefoot, in the snow, uphill, at night, while fighting off wolves, with a beer in one hand...” 😆

Wow! Another great project and post John. This has all given me a lot of ideas if/when I eventually upgrade to the BattleBorn lithium batteries. And at what point does Oliver just start sending all production trailers to you as an unfinished hull to have you finish the job for all customers to this high level of quality? 🙂

I’ve have used ours, but I can’t comment on how waterproof they are. Mine are under a bed cover, so they aren’t exposed to rain. They do seem very sturdy and have nice strong latches with holes for a lock (although no plastic container is really secure), plus holes on the handles to also attach bungees for tie down. And this 24 gallon size provides a good bit of useful storage space but can still be carried pretty easily.

Just bought two of those same containers to use in the truck bed. Kinda pricey but high quality. Amazon has a 2 pack for $120. Rubbermaid ActionPacker️ 24 Gal Lockable Storage Bins Pack of 2, Industrial, Rugged Storage Containers with Lids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXGRHDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MZEX507G1GJ0MZMP4DRV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I store 30’ (3 x 10’ sections) in the bumper, plus the elbow and rubber seal for the campsite sewer connection, and a collapsible Camco hose support (separated into 2 sections). It all fits in the bumper storage compartment, just barely, with careful packing.

There’s a small tube on the outside shower receptacle between the hot and cold knobs. I’ve noticed a few small drops of the winterizing solution dripping out of this tube. Is that normal? I don’t see the details anywhere in the instructions of what that little tube is, or where it’s connected to. Is that small amount of dripping normal? The ITC webpage mentions that this faucet does have an anti-siphon vacuum breaker feature to prevent backflow to the fresh water tank. So may be something to do with that.

Yeah, hose extensions for water and sewer hose are also a good idea, as Mattnan mentioned. I had a similar experience where the water connection was at the extreme opposite end of the site from the electric and sewer. I appreciate the fact that they keep the fresh water far away from the sewer connection but it did require a long water hose.

I carry a 50amp to 30amp adapter. Here’s a link to the one I purchased from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXP2R4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_9JHD89SBCVWMA30W4QEH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And I also carry a 15 amp to 30amp adapter for plugging into a standard household power outlet for those occasional Harvest Host stops that have an outlet available. Can’t run the air conditioner or microwave (don’t want to pop a breaker in the Host’s house) but it’s good for running all the DC powered accessories and charging up the battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QY57SNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_AYP7J647VPGQDDPW3XM0

Or it might not be the countertop. Looking closer at your photo, the countertop looks straight with the bottom of the microwave, so maybe it is the cubby that is misaligned.

That countertop should just be held on with Velcro (it is on our Elite II). You can pull it up and try to reposition it.

I recall a few posts about some folks overdoing it using the tongue jack to raise the hitch while still hooked to the tow vehicle, raising it really high and putting a lot of stress on the ball (even pulling the ball shank out of the Andersen hitch) or stressing the closure of the Bulldog coupler. I think there’s even a warning/caution on this somewhere in the Andersen literature to only raise it about 1” to 2” above the unloaded ball height. Any more than that and you’re basically lifting your tow vehicle by the hitch. At delivery we were shown to only raise the hitch just enough to just barely unload the trailer tongue weight on receiver on the tow vehicle, and to judge that by watching the ball mount in the receiver to see when it just raised enough to move off the bottom of the receiver. That put enough slack in the chains to allow the tensioning nuts to be loosened by hand to easily remove the whale tail. And then reverse the process when reattaching, then lower the tongue and use a wrench to tighten the nuts, and to count the exposed threads extending out of the nut (6 or 7 exposed) to tension the chains. That process worked well but it was tedious. Now towing with an F-250 so I no longer use the Andersen.

Strongly suggest you check the videos on the Andersen website for info on how to adjust/tension the chains. https://help.andersenhitches.com/install-weight-distribution-hitch

Correct. We are “we” as in a couple camping. Two adults with two large camp chairs plus camp footstools, a small table for drinks & reading material located between the chairs, and usually a larger folding table near the rear of the camper for outdoor cooking/meal prep. The 9’x12’ outdoor rug is big enough to run from under the steps at the front of the trailer to most of the way towards the rear. Makes it much easier for walking around barefoot at gravel campsites. But that’s our setup. Others may have different needs.

We use a 9’ x 12’ outdoor rug from Camco. We previously used a 6’ x 9’ rug but found it was too small when we had two chairs and a table set up Camco 42856 OUTDOOR MAT 9X12 LATTICE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBPFZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZS4YBS8DC9X7RGY8KH8T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

John M, Welcome to the forum. Have you ordered your Oliver yet? The Land Rover Discovery Sport is a really nice luxury SUV, BUT if you’re serious about towing an Oliver, either an Elite I or Elite II, the Disco just doesn’t have enough towing capacity, payload rating or tongue weight rating to handle it. If you are buying an Oliver you’ll need a tow vehicle with a lot more towing capacity. And if you want to keep your Discovery then you’ll need to look at trailers that are much lighter than the Oliver. And seriously, the advertising/marketing folks at Land Rover should have done some research on trailer weights and competitor SUVs and their towing capacity before writing that advertisement claiming “impressively high towing capacity” and a “commanding” 4,409 lbs. capacity. That’s actually a fairly low tow rating compared to other full size SUVs.

Congratulations on the new Ollie. For the issue of the AC fan coming on when the furnace is on, that sounds like you have the fan setting on the thermostat in the wrong mode. Check your manual on how to set the fan to “AUTO” mode.