Cameron

I do the same. I just hit the "AUX" button, clicking through the options, until it says "optical".

call or email Dimitri at Lithionics. He was a great help in answering all my questions. One of the things he shared is that the batteries sometimes need to be synched so they all charge equally. He suggested that I go onto the Xantex phone app, find Custom Absorption Voltage, and change the setting from 14.4 to 14.6. He said that it would be ok to up to 14.9 if needed to push the SOC to 100% for all three, but then I should leave the setting at 14.6. It's worked so far.

Took a break over Thanksgiving, leaving trailer and truck with brother in law for a couple weeks. Also, visited some friends who insisted we sleep in their house, even tho I always sleep better in #841. Those are the nights I slept in the trailer during this trip. I think I'm at about 7k miles since I left.

Tomorrow will be my 100th night in the Ollie since I left on my round-the-continent trip in early September. I'm on the way home now so I think I'll hit 102 nights before the trip concludes.

Yes. That original remote is almost useless. Who designed that thing? A sadist, for sure. Lol

Madison County, Virginia. Visiting a friend and I guess we'll be staying a day or two longer than we expected.

I've never even heard of a voltage booster, or seen one being used. It sounds like it would solve some of the problems I'm having, so I'm going to investigate some more. All of the stuff I'm seeing online is about using this at RV parks, rather than with a residential system. Would love to hear from others who have this booster.

Yes, I have one of those testers you mentioned and on a couple of occasions learned that there was no ground, so using that outlet was definitely not going to work. However, even when plugged into the trailer, it didn't do any harm. The trailer's electronic system (surge protector, charger, etc.) seems to be designed well so as to not be damaged when I plug into an outlet with no ground. Yes, I use a 10g extension cord with a 30a adaptor. I haven't checked the outlets with my multimeter, I've only watched the readout in the attic. When the readout says it's only getting 105 amps, I know that it's game over for me on that outlet. But I've had the experience where later in the day I get a full 120v, and then I'm good.

Yes, I've adjusted the charger draw rate on the Xantrex app so as to not overtax the residential system. As we are often visiting someone for a couple days, the longer period needed to charge the batteries is not a problem.

We're on a lengthy round-the-country trip with stops at all sorts of camp spots. Some are Harvest Host, some are Hipcamp, some are with friends/relatives in their driveway. (Boondocking is great too but this time of year we can't count on the solar panels to recharge enough.) The only time we get a 30a hookup is at an official campground. When possible with shore power we like to run a space heater (1500w high/750w low) because it gets rid of humidity/condensation. The mystery is what happens when when we plug into a residential 120 outlet (using and adapter). Sometimes it's great and we can run everything (hot water tank, fridge, space heater). Sometimes we can't even use it to charge the batteries. During problems, the charger readout in the attic gives us an E 0 and a P4 (low voltage) and a reading of 104 to 117v (roughly). That's when the inverter turns on and off with a big "thunk". Oliver service tells me the problem is that there are likely other draws on that residential circuit I'm plugged into, and that the best bet is to us an outlet with a dedicated circuit, but I don't think most residential systems are wired that way. However, sometimes the readout shows less than 120v and everything works fine, including charging and running appliances. That's the mystery. I've adjusted the Xantrex settings down to 10a for incoming power and 50a for battery charging, but that doesn't seem to make a difference. At this point I'm basically limiting my mooching to charge the batteries however much I can when my hookup voltage isn't fluctuating very much.

It was lots of fun last night when a big group of us were watching TV. An ad came on for the Ford F-150, showing it towing an Airstream on some beautiful coastal road. Of course I had to pipe in with "That's not such a great trailer. Ours is better!" (And our LE2 was sitting right outside.) Then the next ad, back to back, was for Oliver. Wow. We all hollered. Very nice ad.

The RUUVI tags work very well. I got four after reading about them on this forum. I have one in the fridge, one in the cabin next to the thermostat, one in the battery compartment and one in the basement. They seem to be very accurate and allow me to know what's going when I'm in the TV or walking around outside.

hi @Dennis and Melissa, thanks for posting this. we're also going to Arkansas after a service visit at the mothership in mid-January. It's terra incognita for me so the responses to your post will be helpful for us too. Maybe we'll even run into you.

Even with a "Code 20" on my wall mounted remote, I find that it does work to turn the inverter on and off. I did figure out how to reset the wall mounted remote to get rid of the Code 20 which I posted a few months ago. The main problem with the Code 20 is that I can't connect my Xantrex phone app to the remote, so I can't change the charging rate, etc. But if I'm boondocking for a few days, it's no big deal.

I've got a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 with a 3.0 diesel. Since starting with the Ollie E2 (15k miles so far on the trailer) I've averaged 15.8 mpg.