Cameron

hi @Dennis and Melissa, thanks for posting this. we're also going to Arkansas after a service visit at the mothership in mid-January. It's terra incognita for me so the responses to your post will be helpful for us too. Maybe we'll even run into you.

Even with a "Code 20" on my wall mounted remote, I find that it does work to turn the inverter on and off. I did figure out how to reset the wall mounted remote to get rid of the Code 20 which I posted a few months ago. The main problem with the Code 20 is that I can't connect my Xantrex phone app to the remote, so I can't change the charging rate, etc. But if I'm boondocking for a few days, it's no big deal.

I've got a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 with a 3.0 diesel. Since starting with the Ollie E2 (15k miles so far on the trailer) I've averaged 15.8 mpg.

Wow. Thank goodness you caught this before anything more serious. Whenever I'm on shore power, I have a habit of periodically putting my hand on different parts of the cable to feel for heat. I try to do it whenever I leave or return to the trailer after having been out.

now i'm curious!

Looking for some feedback from owners who've had the treatment on their trailers. I'm hoping to take my LE2 to the mothership for a service in January and was thinking about going over to Murfreesboro for the CGI. Their website says $3k for an LE2. Seems like a lot. Up until now I've been washing and waxing with marine products every 6 months. I store my trailer outdoors, no covers. They say it's a 2 year Glidecoat ceramic coating. Then I'd need to do it again?

The only settings that I change on the Xantrex phone app are the "breaker rating" and "charger current". If I'm at a site with a good 30a outlet, I'll turn the breaker rating all the way up to 25a or 30a, but if I'm using a little 120v outlet (like at a friend's house) I dial that back to 10a or even 5a to make sure I don't trip their breaker. The charger current gets dialed back accordingly. A third thing I've changed is the "custom absorption voltage". I was having a hard time getting the batteries all the way up to 100% SOC. They seemed to stop at 97% or 98%. I contacted Lithionics and they told me to change the custom absorption voltage to 14.6v, which I did, and haven't had that problem since.

Congrats! You went through the same process as me (and probably a lot more owners) of researching, thinking, renting SOB trailers and ultimately deciding to get it now rather than wait. The learning curve on the Ollie with all the various systems can be steep but don't let it ever get you down. Think of the glitches as steps to becoming a master of your trailer. I've got around 15k on mine and I'm still learning plenty of how to keep it up and running, thanks to the forums, the OTT service center and of course, trial and error! lol

Thanks @Steph and Dud B for the response. Regarding condensation, my problem was definitely not condensation. I regularly wipe down the inside of the windows and tracks when I wake up while cold weather camping, so I know what's normal when it comes to that. This was a definite rain intrusion. I wish I could find a schematic of the window to better understand how the pieces fit together and how my quick fix could redirect water elsewhere. I did check the spaces under the streetside hatches and found the in-between spaces dry, at least from what I could see and feel. I didn't remove any of the insulation to check under. Again, very mysterious.

Thanks @Geronimo John for the response. I was able to catch the leak pretty early on without the mattress getting too wet. I was on shore power so I put my space heater up toward the affected part and dried it out successfully. But I'll continue to check. Nobody wants mold/mildew!

Thanks @DavePhelps for the response. I was a Canadian dollar store the other day and saw a pack of pipe cleaner things in the craft section and thought, hey, I'll get some and try them. I put them in last night during a heavy rain and did notice the wicking action. Yes, they really work and I'll be using them in the future during rain. Regarding the point of intrusion, it's hard to believe that water entering from the rear Oliver light or marker light could travel forward all the way to the window, but hey, I'll tape them off and try anything.

Update.... I put a bead of silicone caulk in a place I'm not sure how to describe. It's where the aluminum window frame screws up against the interior hull window opening. I covered the horizontal gap, the vertical gap under the window center post, and even wiped some caulk around some of the screws/bolts that hold the frame in place. I had some rain last night, and I'm in the middle of an electrical storm at the Bay of Fundy right now, and no water is coming in. I'm happy, the problem seems to be fixed, but I don't understand it. The other windows don't leak. What happened to this one window that caused the problem. It's a mystery. But a dry mystery! Lol.

I feel like these window leaks are like a game of tag that we'll all play at some point, and now I'm "it". I've been on the road for about 5 weeks and have had a few big rainstorms with no leak problems at all. The Ollie did great. Then a few days ago I woke up to a wet mattress and have been working on this problem ever since with no success. It's the rear streetside window. So I'm throwing myself to the mercy of all of you who have dealt with this. The water is not overflowing from the tracks. The weep holes seem to be doing a good job. The dripping (sometimes slow, sometimes fast) seems to be coming from the joint in the aluminum frame, between two screws, directly below the center post of the window. Only here. This is what I've done so far. - Clean out the tracks. They weren't really dirty and didn't have any blockage, but I cleaned them out anyway. Tested with a hose sprayer, no change in interior leakage. - Duct tape to seal the four sides of the slider window to prevent water from rolling down window onto track. Tested, failed. - Covered whole window with plastic taped against hull on three sides. Tested, failed. - Put new bead of silicone caulk along three sides of exterior frame where it meets the hull. Let it dry, then tested. Failed. - Covered AC unit with tarp in case that seal was faulty. Tested, failed. - Covered AC unit and window with tarp. Tested, failed. - Covered the screw holes in exterior light fixture above window with duct tape. Also checked caulking around light. Tested, failed. - During these different tests I've raised and lowered the tongue, and tilted the trailer from side to side during the spray tests, but nothing made a difference. Fortunately the KTT mattresses dry out well with my little space heater and I've been able to stuff some microfiber towels up under the window shade frame to catch the drips to prevent a wet mattress. It's driving me crazy. Between the storms when there was no leak and the storms that put water inside I was on no unusually bumpy roads and had no major jarring type incidents which would have broken any seals or cracked anything. I have no idea what could have changed from one day to the next. I opened a ticket with OTT yesterday but haven't gotten any advice yet. One of Oliver's new distributor sites is Tim's RV in Erving, MA. I'll be down that way in a month and may see if they can help. Tomorrow it's not supposed to rain so I'm going to dry out the inside of the window frame and try putting a bead of silicone along the bottom of the frame. It appears to be a Lippert 8800 series, but their website didn't have anything relevant to my problem.

What does the Lithionics app on your phone show? All green/charging?