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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
  • Make
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #
  • What model is your other RV or Travel Trailer?
    Hallmark Everest

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435 profile views
  1. Oh yes, Milwaukee high torque cordless rattle gun resides in the truck kit.
  2. John, Agreed, a Magruder road trip is not for the inexperienced, faint of heart or those afraid of dirt/dust and scratches/dings to the body work. I've travel this route (it is my backyard area sort of) so many times I can't keep track. Started back in the 60's with Grandpa/Grandma dragging us brats along to pick huckleberries or hunt bear...hated some of those forced outings. Of course, now days, I'm guilty of the same punishment on the youngsters. I've hauled horses in stock trucks and trailers over the Magruder for years. It's just a matter of what you know and are used to, I guess. Th
  3. I’ll add this...think of intended drivers as well. My better half likes to drive and she feels very comfortable driving our various towing setups. I’ve insisted she knows and understands the connect and disconnect routine. We seek out and boondock camp, almost exclusively; sometimes never seeing another soul for days and I personally believe she needs to know how to get us home if a medical emergency arises. Luckily, she is a willing participant and obviously YMMV. I’ve turned her loose on White Bird Summit, I-70 west of Denver and Davis Damn...all downhill grades known for hot brakes and whit
  4. I have many towing and hauling needs, own several different style of trailers and haul a slide in truck camper as well. Can only afford the one work horse, thus it gets used for all purposes. If I had only the Ollie to tow AND was looking for a new TV it would be a F250/350 or equivalent truck with a topper on the bed. I would not want to mess with the Anderson products, for several obvious and not so obvious reasons. The less mechanical contraptions, bandaids, moving pieces and parts for me to mess with makes my day. Sure, trucks ride a bit rough when empty...by design. The F150/1500 class ri
  5. I pull the wheels, clean/inspect /lube everything on the running gear, in late fall before putting Ollie in storage. Like noted, accessing the zerks and manipulation of a manual grease gun can be a challenge. I have over 60 zerks needing grease, some more often than others thus I convinced myself to purchase another power tool. My tractor alone has 21 grease points and they get lubed every 10 hours of use; 6-8 times during snow plow season. The cordless grease gun gets lots of use.
  6. Contact this outfit; Dinosaur Electronics. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Company_Info.htm I had a water heater board fail on another RV and these boards are so much better than the OEM. They don't make boards for all applications but it may be worth a call. You'll likely have to purchase through a re-seller; I purchased here: https://pantherrvproducts.com/ Mark
  7. Ken, please expand on your experience with this tool. I've had my eye on it for a while, as it seems after 45 years of filing experience, my ability to hand file a chain manually has diminished with age and failing eye sight (to be accurate-likely lack of patience). I've recently relied on the local shop to file my chains on their industrial Stihl provided chain grinder but requires extra chains (which I have) to get through a season and the dreaded trip to the big city. Other than purchasing a good Oregon bench top grinder, this tool reviews well and looks solid. Thanks, Mark
  8. I own mostly Milwaukee and Stihl in the battery tools. Preventing the bevy of different chargers/batteries is a challenge. Makita is likely a better product and I eye balled their battery saw but in my area, Stihl has actual support and mechanics who share knowledge without charge. Corded stuff is so yesterday; I own one pole saw with a cord and it is a serious PITA to deploy. My Stihl battery saw breaks down into a smallish Pelican case, with extra battery and chains. Works great for camp fire wood and clearing the forest roads when needed. An axe is the back-up and always in our kit. M
  9. Following...please post your R&R on the new lights and gaskets.
  10. If money wasn't a factor, I would be seriously investigating something similar to these: TriPac Envidia is an all-electric, battery based Auxiliary Heating and Cooling Temperature Management System. The ComfortPro electric APU delivers a solid 7,500 BTUs of cooling for up to 11 hours.*
  11. Use the search function and search "security". Lots of discussions. Here's one:
  12. Yep, ^^^, good suggestion. I added three RV outlets (one 50 amp and two 30 amp) around the homestead. We have friends/family stopping by with their RVs and of course they need to hook-up to electrical. The mother/father in-law likes their twin A/C and microwave to always work. Whether you decide to do this project yourself or hire a licensed electrician, make sure this common error is not part of life. And, if you're going to go through the effort and for very little extra cost, go with a 50 amp RV outlet. You never know when a visitor with a big 5th wheel or MH will show up and needing f
  13. Sure, I'll take the bait. Personal experience mostly and hard working electrician friends and their testimony. I replaced most of the ones in our house over the years due to teenaged boys and heavy use. Levition (sourced from Lowes/HD), to name one product, is one I've had spotty luck with. Bad, new stuff has always been an issue. It has gotten worse with some products. I have a couple of older Erickson Mfg Slater Electric, Inc (purchased by LeGrand/Pass&Seymor) GFCIs still in use years after our home was built; still working as designed. Not big box stuff; usually found at the wholesale/p
  14. I hate to ass/u/me anything regarding someone's abilities in electrical trouble shooting. It is very good you are asking questions and trying to fix things yourself. This being said, I've added a trusted source of educational material to my post above. I suspect the following and of course without knowing your specific year/model it is tough to troubleshoot. Older units usually require more checking/maintaining: 1. As stated previously, a bad GFCI. Change it out as suggested. Pushing the button is one test...under load is your problem. Most GFCI found today are garbage and it is a
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