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Mike D.

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Mike D. last won the day on July 4

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My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple
  • Location
    At home in Florida

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2021
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    797

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  1. I made an error.....The black wire on the right side of the battery box wall does not go the the converter/charger. I think it is the negative wire that goes to the Zamp Controller, and then on up to the solar panels. Apologies for the confusion. I could do better if I had a wiring diagram instead of going by memory!
  2. Good suggestion, I’ll turn in a ticket and make a recommendation. My shock bushings are relatively new, so not cracked yet, but just a matter of time. For those replacing their shocks, you can re-use 2 dished washers from each of the old shocks and install between the bushings and the flat bracket surface. In the meantime, I’m going to install some heavy 3/8” fender washers.
  3. I found a pic of my negative buss. I also saved a pic I found on the forum of someone else’s trailer positive buss bar, I cannot remember who. This is not the setup I have. What I see in that pic, which is kinda fuzzy, is (from far to near): 1. Auto reset breaker from Zamp panels to battery 2. Auto reset breaker with 7 pin charge wire and breakaway switch 3. OptiFuse 60A breaker 4. Positive buss with Jack wires, etc. That’s just a guess on my part, others may be of more help here.
  4. My 2021 #797 came with 2 Brightway Group Marine/RV batteries as standard. I ordered the Zamp 340W solar panels with Zamp 30A PWM controller as an option, which included the battery disconnect switch in the upper street side cabinet. No inverter, Progressive Dynamics PD9260C converter/charger. My trailer is parked about 500 miles away right now, so can’t get you all the pics you need of the buss bars etc. I have several pics on hand I took before replacing them with 2 BattleBorn 100’s. The 1/0 parallel jumpers were too short for me to use, so I ordered 12” 1/0 jumper wires from Battleborn. Wires from battery going inside to positive and negative busses are 4/0. Right Side Battery Box: Upper red + wire goes to 60A OptiFuse breaker Lower red/black + wire goes to solar panels Black wire - goes to converter/charger Left Side Battery Box Yellow - wire goes to negative buss Ive no idea how the 2022 models are configured. From what I can tell in this forum, there are many variations based on age and electrical equipment, especially inverters. For example, the PD9260C converter does not have a lithium setting, but a $25 plug in pendent converts it. There is no positive buss on mine, all + wires are bolted into the OptiFuse breaker. Frankly, that section is a mess I intend to modify soon, I was waiting for my warranty period to expire. It all works great however. If you PM me your email, I can send higher resolution pics you can zoom in on.
  5. Thank YOU for confirming with Zamp! I wasn’t 100% sure I was reading those specs correctly. That’s good info for anyone looking to do a simple swap out of their older conventional batteries for lithium.
  6. This may have been correct for older Zamp solar controllers in our trailers, but if I am not mistaken the current Zamp ZS30A PWM controller charges to 14.4V in Absorption mode, 13.6v in Float. That’s the way I interpret the specs (link below), someone please let me know if I have misunderstood these important details. Converting from PWM to an MPPT is a worthwhile modification, and it’s on my future mods list. In my case, the Zamp PWM is working fine for us with 2 Battleborn 100A LiFePO4. I don’t want to change it out now because of the cutout hole in the wall panel. I’m hoping Zamp will offer an MPPT in a year or so that will be a panel mount and can fill that hole in the wall. By the way, Battleborn recommends charging their batteries up to 14.4V periodically for optimum performance, so they seem to be similar to Lithionics in their protocol. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Solar/Zamp_Charge_Controller_Manual-revised.pdf
  7. We’re using the 2 5/16” ball to tow our 2021 LE2 with 2020 Ford F250. Like Fritz said, it’s probably overkill but I thought it worth the extra cost. We are not using WDH, tows very easy. I called Service well before production date and set it up. They installed it during manufacturing, not after the fact. Upon delivery, I had to pay an additional Service fee, can’t recall how much, but reasonable.
  8. I went back and researched previous posts. I think I’m going to use JD’s method and add 90 degree els with my almost new hoses to get a nice single bend like that one shown on the right tank.
  9. After I turned in my service ticket on 797, Jason got back to me with a next day response, referred it to Engineering. They attributed the problem to an installation error. He said he had been checking other trailers in for service, had not found any loose. The only other similar problem he knew about was from Ralph, Hull 625. Just a reminder I also had 2 loose doghouse bolts, details in a previous post.
  10. Thank you for suggestions, I’ll use them.
  11. Same situation with my 2021 model. I was greasing the chassis this week and took one of the nuts off. Only the top of the shock has this problem, the lower end is fine. No serious cracks in the rubber yet. Perhaps some heavy duty fender washers between the rubber and the brackets would improve the rubber life.
  12. Slight misunderstanding on my post. The threaded portion of the bolt is inside the vanity.
  13. I changed my mind on this. Initially I intended to make it easy for a future owner to convert it back to a flush toilet. But I didnt like it so I eliminated the tee and put in a straight coupler instead.
  14. I cut the blue PEX tube several inches after the tee into the water supply line to the sink. Then I put a brass 1/2” PEX plug and crimped it with a copper ring. I snipped off the toilet supply valve, and pushed the line thru the hole in the fiberglass, and a 4’ section of blue PEX line slid right out. Yes, I will cap off that outside connection to avoid user error. I didn’t have a cap on hand, need to go to store. By the way, the two white PEX lines you see in the photos are the flush lines, the same ones you already disconnected from the flush inlet and the other one on the black tank. They lead to a brass backflow preventer underneath the countertop. I pulled those out too, came right out easily. You can also see the black tank vent line, it’s a 1.5” abs pipe that connects to the vent line going to the roof, right next to the composting toilet vent hose.
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