Ray Kimsey

Correct, normal configuration would pull water from the fresh tank. The boondocking configuration is to pump water into the fresh tank from the inlet on the curbside (starboard) rear of the camper. In case you are boondocking and you need to "add" water to the fresh tank. I have several 5 gallon containers I can put water in and then pump the water from them into the fresh tank. Does that make sense?

Picture is showing normal configuration.

When the mosquito meter is in the 5-6 range, you can resort to a: Mosquito head net

@Brian Z It should turn 90 degrees. I have a 2020 also. Check around in that space around the heater for the lever. Mine vibrated loose a year or so ago and I was able to find it and put it back on.

I assume your water heater bypass valve is set correctly? That is the only thing I can think of at the moment.

In 2020 when Oliver could no longer get the MIchelins they switched to Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT225/75R16. They have held up well for us. I am not sure what they are using today.

@Just Joe Thank you for the information. I will give it a try!

@Just Joe I have done something similar but have never added the compressor blanket and was wondering if it did much and where you got it. Thank you! Glad it worked for you. My current sound level is 65db.

The fridge in AUTO runs first on AC, then if that is not available it switches to propane, then if that is not available it runs on DC. Inverter is not needed in this application. It is running on propane, since it is available. If you shut off the propane it would switch to DC or if you manual switch it to DC. However, the 3 way fridges are notoriously inefficient compared to your home fridge and will burn through batteries very rapidly. The best solutions are probably to leave it on propane, keep awning out if possible to shade the refrigerator. Keep the number of items in the fridge small enough that you can have good airflow inside (in otherwords don't overpack). I have also installed a supplemental fan to pull air through the coils to help efficiency.

I agree with Stephanie and Dudley. That is not normal. I have never seen anything like it either. My question would also be about the installation of the aftermarket window in the door first, then some other damage done to it.

We have hull #676 with the Norcold 3-way refrigerator and usually have no problems. We do freeze blue ice to take with us to keep lunch cold. The only time we have had problems with the refrigerator cooling is when we are parked in the sun with very higer temps (90+). To solve that I added to fans in the upper vent to pull air up through the refrigerator as @dhaig mentioned. I also used the same fans as he mentions. For wiring I just connected to 12 volts and ground wires below and open the lower vent to turn it on or off. I have thought about wiring it up to the panel on the wall at the door, but so far I don't turn it on or off that much so I haven't bothered.

You might try hooking up a hose to the city water and test for leaks that way. Maybe be prepared to turn off the water quickly. If you don't see leaks, then run the water from a faucet and see if it gets rid of any air pockets? Sorry I am not coming up with any other ideas at the moment.

One more correction. Our Ram is 2WD. Otherwise it is good.

Thank you.

The purpose of the flexible ducting that descends down from the fan and connects to the ADB (1st photo) was to keep the cool air from flowing into the area between the shells. I left it in place and just put the styrofoam inside it in the picture. It would allow me to remove it all and put it back together like it was originally in case this project did not work out. Like I mentioned before, I may redo this now that I think it is worth redoing. It would allow me to make a neater installation if the flexible ducting was removed.