Ray Kimsey

Just another thought on the pipe insulation. I put it on also, not as much for insulation as for sound. At least in my trailer the water pump creates vibration and putting on the pipe insulation helps with the noise. One other thing I do is remove the plastic outside shower head make sure the metal hose is drained and shove it back inside the trailer. Even when I have winterized. I have heard people say that shower head is prone to cracking if it freezes.

Yes, that is normal. I had the same issue when I tried to plug mine in at home. I had to use a non GFCI outlet at my house.

I repacked the bearings last winter and they were fine at that point, but I plan to replace them this time around. I currently have 15K miles on the trailer and one more trip planned in a couple of weeks. I have the Timken bearings to replace them with ready to go. Like you, I purchased a bearing packer and it worked well. Also when we got our trailer I found out that the tires were not balanced. I contacted Jason and he said the tires were supposed to be balanced, but the supplier had failed to balance the tires. I took it to a tire dealership and got them balanced. I think it was something that was just related to the time we got our trailers. Ours is a 2020 that we picked up about the same time as you based on our hull number, 676.

Thank you John. I expect that you are correct. We haven't found anything not working properly and it has been several months since we found it. Not even sure where I found it other than inside at this point.

I found a Norcold service manual online and it says for the A Default Code: No AC power available to refrigerator. Possible reasons: AC cord is not plugged into power board or the F3 fuse is open.

In the first picture the latch is out to the right (open) so you can connect. Once connected you need to pull it back in as in the last picture. It is just underneath the quick connect.

My only thought is to make sure you close the small latch on the female quick connect you opened to connect your hose. You will not get gas unless it is closed. My apologies if you know that and have tried it already.

No leaks and puddles is good. I am sure some others may have some ideas.

If the pump doesn't stop, then I think it probably is a leak and maybe a big one. Check under the curbside bed would be where I would look first.

I was going to say if you leave the pump on for some amount of time and it comes back on without turning on a faucet, then it probably is leaking somewhere. Since you are cutting it off, the pump cannot come back on. It might also explain why you are getting the sputtering like there is air in the line. My guess is that one of the plastic fittings may not be tight. They come loose easily. Start by looking under the curbside bed for any puddles of water or even remove the bedding and open the panels and turn on the pump briefly to see if you see water. Maybe try tightening all the white fittings (hand tighten) on the pex lines under the curb side bed. Others may have some other ideas for you.

One question. When you are running water the pump usually comes on to build up the pressure. Once you quit using water, the pump will then run for a few seconds longer and then quit. Does the pump ever come on without running water or do you typically shut off the pump afterwards?

I had the same issue on #676 (2020). The crack in my shroud, like yours was at the screw hole, but mine did not seem to have as many cracks as yours judging from the picture. I bought a replacement shroud from a local Camping World, but have not used it yet. I was able to patch my current shroud using a strip of fiberglass drywall joint tape and JB Weld epoxy. I put the epoxy on the inside of the shroud, then layered the fiberglass tape on and more epoxy. It is still holding 18 months later.

My understanding is the SkyPro is the external antenna and that is what I usually use. The Core I believe is an internal antenna. I assume you see a list of networks if you getting a connect button. I have attached some photos of my setup in the control panel. I updated firmware this morning since I was playing with it, so it may look slightly different, but should work the same. In the main tab you see a list of some neighborhood wifi and my house wireless (RNEM). On the WiFi tab I set up the Wifranger as RNEM-ontheroad and entered information on the order of connection priority. First my home wireless and then my phone. Other wifi connections I have made follow those and I remove them every so often.

Are you able to get to the control panel web page? If not, definitely reset to default settings. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Good morning, Yes red light #5 is on. I am actually routing through the WiFi Ranger currently. Included is a picture of what it looks like when working. My WiFi Ranger is on a 2020 model. The password for my model after a reset is changemenowXXXX where the XXXX is the last 4 digits of the WFRID. I would be glad to try to help in any way.

I am not sure if this is the best thing to seal it with, but like I mentioned earlier, I removed part of it, then cleaned it really well and used Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. It has held up just fine for over a year and a half now.

Thank you, I just adjusted the angle up a bit based on Mike's response. I will see how it goes next trip. The angle before was showing the bumper, now I have moved it up to show about 3 feet behind the camper at the closest. I agree the display size is pretty small.

Patriot: Thank you. That was the information that I was looking for. Mike: I just adjusted it up a bit and I will see how that works on my next trip. Thank you.

Out of curiosity, how does the view compare to the old voyager system? It looks like they mounted it in the same location so I assume it still points down. Does it give you better down the road coverage? On the voyager we don't really see cars behind us unless they are pulled up behind at a stoplight or something like that. I am assuming you would need to mount it lower (like bumper level) to see down the road.

It is roughly 10 and 7/8 inches up from the bottom of the seam on #676

We have not been gone for a month yet (several times for 2 weeks or so), so can't help you on all the issues, but here is what I use. Harvest host is a yes for us. Automatic drafting for utilities, etc I have used for a long time. International data plans for Canada we set up when we are headed there, then drop after we are back. Mail forwarding and lawn service we haven't needed yet. I have some church teens that would take care of the lawn if I need it and a daughter that can check on the mail occasionally.

My seal was the same way when I got home from picking it ours up. I removed about half of it and cleaned it and reattached with some adhesive. So far so good. I wondered if someone didn't clean well before attaching it at the factory.

I have had the same issue with the front jack. I am glad you mentioned this because I did not think to check the rear ones yet. I will do that tomorrow. Please let us know if you find get a torque value from Oliver. Thank you.

I think I would have my alternator tested first.

Sorry I wasn't more clear. The antenna has two parts, a base that mounts to the camper and then the actual antenna part that mounts on the base. I added 3 screws to where the two antenna parts connect to each other. The snap mechanism that was supposed to hold the two parts of the antenna together just did not work that well. I mounted the new base to the hull the same way Oliver did. If you watch the video they show how you are supposed to snap the two parts of the antenna together. I tried, but could not get them to seat properly.