Ray Kimsey

I have a 2020 trailer with the same Magnadyne unit you have. I purchased a new one and just replaced it. Like you said they only had a few of the white ones left. I may have gotten one of the last . My antenna worked fine until a few weeks ago and it was working and the next day it wasn't working. It went from 30+ stations to 0 without moving at the site we were in in Orlando. When we got home, still nothing. According to the technician I worked with over the phone you should get about 12+ volts at the wall plate, and also at the antenna. If you get voltage at the antenna when the red light is illuminated at the antenna, the antenna unit has to be replaced is what I was told. So I ordered a new one and it is now working fine. You are supposed to be able snap the top of the antenna on the base, but I was never able to get it to snap down. It would go down, but I could pull it up without much effort so I finally pushed it down and put some small screws through where the plastic pieces join together. I did not want if flying off while driving down the road. Below is a video of how it is supposed to snap down. Maybe you will have better luck. Let me know if you have any questions.

I know this is not exactly what you were asking for, but maybe this will help some. Our trailer trailer dry weight was 5300 by the sticker. We purchased a 2020 with solar and 4 AGM batteries and 20lb propane tanks. Lithium batteries were not an option for us. I believe the battery weight is around 260lbs (~65lbs/battery).

Yep, I had the same problem last year in the same location. Carolina wren's love a good protected spot. I got a cover for the A/C, and I haven't had a problem since, but they could still get in if they tried hard. I will see how it goes this spring. Hmm, maybe I should go check now! 😃

Yes you can put a "Y" plug in the generator and hook the ground plug into one of the two receptacles and then the tool in the other.

I also place the antifreeze bottle on top of the rear bumper rather than on the ground. Pump does not have to work as hard.

Our 2020 Oliver LE2 is 12 months old with 7K miles and I figured it was time to "repack the bearings." I watched the Dexter video and others several times, read through the forum discussion, gathered the CV-2 grease, brake cleaner, bought a small device to repack the grease in the bearing, a set of Timken seals, and a set of Timken bearings just in case. All went very well. The current bearings, races, spindle looked good so I left them in for another round. The only question I had is how much grease do you put in? The bearings were well packed. I added a coat of grease to the the inner and outer edges of the bearings, more on the races, covered the spindle with a layer of grease. I added another dab of grease behind the bearings. It seemed to be at least what was there before if not a little bit more. I know some said not to "over" grease, but it seemed vague to me on exactly how much grease to use. Tomorrow I will hook up the trailer and take it down the road for a test spin to see how it is doing (maybe 50 miles or so). Give me a chance to check the temperature, hub play, and re-torque lug nuts before an upcoming 1500 mile trip in about 10 days.

Mine is just under 7,000, but then I haven't had it a year yet.

We have a 2020 and similar to the 2019 we don't have a smart tv either. I did buy an amazon fire stick and added to the tv via the hdmi port. If by chance, we have decent wireless or cell reception then we can stream with that. Most of the time we don't have good service. We usually don't watch too much, so it is not a big issue, but we also carry along some dvds and resort to that on occasions.

Have you tried it without the booster? I didn't need it on my LE2. I am using a slightly different brand, but you might not need the booster.

It was great. The actual trip started and ended in Greensboro, NC and covered over 10,000 miles in 30 days. We had covered most of the continental US a few years before. So we only stopped only briefly for sleep when crossing the US. Not many people made the trip to Alaska in those days so we saw very few cars on the Alaskan Highway and the Milepost was invaluable tool back then. The sign forest at Watson Lake was only a single row of signs. There was still a lot of devastation in Anchorage from the 9.2 earthquake in 1964. So, so many memories. We traveled to Mexico City in a Winnebago motor home 4 years later.

My parents, an aunt and uncle, and I traveled the Alaskan Highway back in 1966. I was 11 at the time. In 1966 more than 1,000 miles of the AH was gravel. We traveled in a 1965 Ford Esquire station wagon pulling a Cox pop-up camper. We traveled the road in July and it had a few really bad sections but mostly we were covered in dust. That was probably a good thing! This guys video brought back so many memories.

When draining your grey tank, I noted you elevated the front of trailer that is good. Also you should open the drain valve inside the trailer when at dump station. Probably already open when connected to full hookups at campsite. Opening the shower drain valve lets the gray tank drain faster because it allows air to enter the tank. Make sure to close it prior to heading off down the road. Like Mike said I am not aware of any stove vents that need opening or closing. Not sure I would drive with and a/c cover on. Overall I think your lists are pretty thorough. You may adjust things as you get more familiar with it. Like Mike said, just go out and enjoy it!

I may make a couple of replies here as I read through. Also, I am not sure if you actually mean 1a (inside trailer setup) precedes 1b (outside trailer setup) or if that is the order you wrote them in. I would set up the outside before setting up the inside. So let me start with 1b. Also sometimes the order is important and sometimes it is not. I will only comment if I think it would serve you better to change an the order. One more thing, we have only had our trailer for a year so someone else with more experience may have better input, but hopefully I can get you started. After backing in to the site and before doing anything like unhooking or anything else for that matter I check my power with my surge suppressor and make sure the water is working. I have never had problems so far, but better to find before you unhook if you have power or water issues. With power breaker off, plug in your surge suppressor and then power on your breaker. My surge suppressor gives a blue and green light if proper wiring. All good, turn off breaker. Check water. Maybe add this to step 4. All good, then you can proceed with your list. I have made adjustments to 7. I wasn't sure what you were talking about in some cases so I reworded a couple 1b 7) To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer): A) Detach safety emergency brake cable from truck and stow. B) Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow. C) Detach safety chains from truck and stow. D) Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in. E) Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack. F) Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin. G) Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out). H) Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin. I) Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground. J) Adjust front jack so tongue is level with truck hitch. K) Remove hitch coupler pin L) Pull up on hitch coupler lever. M) Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball. If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch. N) Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock. Continuing at 12. Since I already verified power working from above and my surge protector is connected I connect my cable to Oliver, make sure breaker is off on power pole, attach cable to surge suppressor and turn on power. Also I just noted that Mike and Carol replied so I read through their thoughts and will not repeat their input now. I will try to read through departure and pre trip stuff in a bit.

Interesting. Maybe the windows have changed. The windows we have don't have weep holes at the top.

Do you mean the window seal that goes in the track? https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_Parts_Search_Results.aspx?txtSearch=H109-376 It comes in white and black.

I have seen the same issues and I just set the mode I want manually also.

I don't know about the 2021, but I don't believe the dometic thermostat in the 2020 is bluetooth capable since on my thermostat there is no bluetooth icon at the bottom of the thermostat. Dometic makes one that is bluetooth capable like in the manual, but it shows a bluetooth icon on the thermostat as in the drawing you reference above. The thermostat in mine has just a plain white face at the bottom of the thermostat.

Hi Brian, I don't understand what you are asking. So my apologies if you already understand what I am telling you. Once the primary cylinder that is selected by the propane change over lever runs out the regulator shows red. You can have both tanks open and when the regulator shows red it will switch to the other tank. You will know the original tank is empty because it is red. See about 1:30 in the propane tank video here: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/videos/

We picked ours up back on Oct 14 and used the WalMart Pink antifreeze this winter. No issues with our filter housing so far. I will definitely add it to my list of things to check on though.

I have the TST system and it works great. There are several that probably work well, but it is the one I ended up with.

Andersen does not usually have a coupling link on their anti-sway and weight distribution hitches. My understanding is since the tongue bracket has to be installed much further back on the Oliver the chains have to be extended. I was able to find the following information from Andersen (https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq/what-is-the-weight-rating-tensile-strength-of-the-wd-chain) on the chain strength: 3/8" zinc-plated chain Grade 30 commercial 2650 lbs minimum working load (sometimes called tensile strength) –with 4x breaking strength Minimum tensile of 55,000 p.s.i.

Great job David! And it was a great day in NC.

I didn't have them check the spare. I will probably remove it and have it checked sometime soon and if it is mounted like the other 4 and is better (needing less weight), I may just replace the bad one with the spare and use the current one as the spare. Does that sound reasonable?

Follow-up on the results of getting my tires balanced: So I took my Ollie (#676, October 2020 with the Cooper tires) to get the tires balanced this morning. The outcome was three of the tires were pretty good and only needed about an ounce, but the street-side rear needed a whopping 5 ounces. Probably explains why I was seeing a lot of issues with screws coming loose.

Did you hear anything from OTT? We picked ours up October 14 (hull 676) and ours were not balanced either. Are you able to pull your trailer to a tire dealership and have them balanced, or do you need to take the tires off the trailer and carry them to the tire store?